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TOUR  THROUGH  THE  WEST 

ESOPUS  AND  DUTCH  TOUR 

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THE  JOURNALS 

OF 

WASHINGTON    IRVING 

(FROM  JULY,  1815,  TO  JULY,  1842) 

EDITED  BY 
WILLIAM  P.  TRENT 

AND 

GEORGE   S.  HELLMAN 


BOSTON     -     MCMXIX 


COPYRIGHT,  1919, 
BY  THE  BIBLIOPHILE  SOCIETY 


AS  a  partial  consideration  for  the  copyright 
**•  of  the  Irving  Journals,  The  Bibliophile 
Society,  after  printing  an  edition  for  its  mem 
bers,  has  issued  a  few  copies  to  Mr.  George 
S.  Hellman  for  private  distribution,  of  which 
this  is  one.  The  type  has  been  distributed, 
and  no  copies  were  printed  for  sale. 


GIFT 


THE    UNIVERSITY    PRESS,    CAMBRIDGE,    U.  8.  A. 


TRAVELS  IN  SPAIN 

V 

[1826] 

February  10th.  —  Friday.     Leave  Bordeaux  at  six        P*~  1  A& I 
o'clock  with  Peter  in  diligence  for  Bayonne.    Clear 
starlight  —  weather  mild.     Towards  daylight  a  fog  A*2<r 

rises  which  lasts  till  midday  —  breakfast  at  Langon         //  ^ 
two  fr[ancs]  fifty  centimes]  which  is  disputed  by  pas-  /  ^  /  $ 

sengers.    Afternoon  sunny  and  warm  —  pass  peas 
ants  in  Basque  capes  —  pass  over  Landes.    Postilion  y  t 
refuses  to  go  off  of  a  walk  unless  conductor  pays  old 
debt  of  pour-boire  —  pass  through  rough,  romantic          /*7/A  I  /\i 
little  village  of  Roquefort  —  sup  at  -        — ,  a  very 
clean  looking  town  on  entering  —  all  whitewashed. 
Spanish  captain  at  table  with  moustache. 

February  llth.  —  Saturday.  Travelled  all  last 
night  —  fine  starlight  —  at  daybreak  stopped  at 
Aix  —  old  chateau  now  caserne  on  the  river  — 
beautiful  warm  sunny  morning  —  came  in  sight  of 
the  Pyrenees  —  snow  on  the  summit  of  some- 
bright  in  sunshine  —  Landes  —  peasants  with  capes 
and  long  locks  —  officer  in  coupe*  who  had  been  in 
America  —  arrive  at  Bayonne  at  one.  At  three 
part  in  diligence  for  Madrid. 

Pass  thro'  St.  Juan  de  Luz  —  picturesque  build 
ing  in  Moorish  style  —  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
like  a  lake  —  Pyrenees  in  distance  —  people  this 
afternoon  have  gay  character  —  Basques  —  pretty 
girls.  At  -  -  pass  French  frontier  —  passports 

1 


visaed  —  arrive  at  eight  at  Iran.1  Have  to  leave 
trunks  —  too  large  for  diligence. 

Sunday,  12th.  —  At  two  o'clock  leave  Iran,  first 
taking  chocolate.  Three  guards  accompany  us 
running  ahead  —  pay  two  pesos  among  them.  At 
daybreak  find  us  among  mountains  —  strong-fea 
tured  country.  Houses  opposite  large,  desolate  — 
women  in  mantillas  —  hair  plaited  —  houses  with 
enclosures  —  one  of  our  fellow  travellers  is  the 
same  Frenchman,  the  other  a  young  Frenchman 
likewise  who  has  adopted  the  Span[ish]  costume  and 
character  —  tickles  all  the  women. 

Stop  at  -  -  where  we  take  coffee.  Figaro 
brings  us  to  hotel  where  are  pretty  girls  —  long 
passages.  Breakfast  coffee  and  milk  —  excellent 
bread  —  one  franc  each  —  drive  all  day  thro'  a 
wild  mountainous  country  with  a  stream  running 
thro'  it  —  villages  of  ragged  looking  houses  — 
men  with  sashes  —  sandals  —  pass  mountain]  of 
Vergara  —  just  before  alighting  to  walk  over  it  we 
stop  at  mountain  inn  in  small  village  —  mules  with 
bells  —  mule  with  velvet  side-saddles  —  priest  walk 
ing  before  it  —  pass  mountain  of  Vergara.  Soldiers 
escort  us  over  it  —  wilderness  of  mountains  —  dine 
at  village  of  Vergara.  Begins  to  rain. 

[Here  Irving  pauses  to  make  an  amusing  little 
drawing  of  a  man  with  a  high  hat,  presumably  one  of 
the  characters  that  he  had  met  with  that  day.] 

After  leaving  Vergara  the  scenery  becomes  still 
more  wild  and  picturesque,  especially  after  entering 

1  With  this  town  and  its  large  custom-house  we  begin  to  en 
counter  many  Spanish  proper  names.  These  Irving  spelled  much 
as  he  pleased,  often  giving  them  partly  in  French.  Our  plan  has 
been  to  leave  the  text  as  he  wrote  it  wherever  that  has  seemed  possi 
ble.  For  example,  accents  are  seldom  added  to  the  Spanish  words; 
French  "St."  is  not  changed  to  Spanish  "San,"  etc.  But  we  have 
tried  to  leave  nothing  that  would  mislead  the  reader. 

2 


the  province  of  Alava.  There  are  beautiful  wild 
solitudes  among  the  mountains  with  solitary  build 
ings,  looking  as  wild  as  the  mountains  themselves. 
We  arrive  at  Vitoria1  at  about  eight  —  rainy  night  — 
put  up  at  large  hotel  —  Vitoria  capital  of  Alava. 
People  of  these  mountains  appear  small  but  well 
built,  sinewy  —  lively  eyes  —  Basque  women  hand 
some  —  men  with  a  kind  of  striped  stockings  and 


sandals  —  wear  jackets  slung  over  the  shoulders 
and  turn  them  towards  wind  and  weather.  At 
dinner  had  a  true  Spanish  dish  —  fowl  —  pork  — 
buck  —  sausage,  etc.,  altogether. 

Monday,  13th.  —  Get  up  at  two  at  night  —  take 
chocolate  —  start  in  diligence  —  Figaro  remains  — 
have  two  Spaniards  in  diligence.  At  Miranda  we 
are  permitted  to  pass  custom-house  without  ex 
amination,  paying  two  francs  each  —  cross  the  Ebro 
and  enter  Old  Castile  —  heavy  rain  —  pass  through 
a  wild  rocky  pass  of  Pancorbo.  Mountains  on  which 

1  This  old  historic  town  was  the  site  of  Wellington's  famous 
victory  on  June  21,  1813,  over  the  French  in  the  Peninsular 
War. 

3 


there  had  fallen  snow  —  road  winds  at  foot  of 
precipices  —  pass  thro'  Corvo  —  poor  village  — 
shabby  houses  with  arms  on  them  —  Castilian 
pride  —  men  with  old  brown  cloaks  thrown  round 
shoulders  —  hidalgos  —  see  them  through  gateways 

-  enter  on  plains  of  Castile  —  snow  lying  on  them 

-  pass  among  spires  of  the  Iberian  Mountains  — 
plains  among  mountains,  high  and  cold  —  but  sun 
comes    out    hot  —  villages  —  shabby    houses    with 
arms  over  doors  —  hidalgos  —  plains  with  sheep  - 
muleteers  —  peasants  all  in  dirty  brown  mantillas. 

Pass  in  sight  of  Mount  Oca  covered  with  clouds 

-  arrive  at  Burgos  about  one  —  buildings  with  long 
galleries  —  moresques  —  streets    spacious  —  idle  - 
houses  with  grated  window  between  small  windows 

-  great  doors  —  men  lounging  about  in  great  brown 
mantles  —  woman  in  scarlet  at  grate  of  window  — 
lower  part  of  houses  dirty  and  desolate  for  miles  - 
huge  rambling  inns  —  with  bedroom  within  bed 
room  —  no  fireplaces  —  braziers  under  the  table  - 
mats  on  the  floor. 

Women  —  long,   brown,   handsome    faces  —  long 
plaited  braids  of  hair. 

Cathedral  of  Burgos  —  rich  tower  —  interior  - 
great  expense  of  workmanship  —  choir  surrounded 
by  brass  grating  —  tombs  of   saints  —  statues  ly 
ing  in  odour  of  sanctity  —  one  in  right-hand  chapel 
under  picture  of  Virgin  and  child  by  Murillo.    Old 
verger  a  sacristan  whose  cough  resounds  through  the 
cathedral  —  rich    carving    round    the    choir  —  our 
Saviour's  history  —  figure  in  red  —  clock  strikes  the 
hour  —  several  buildings  in  ruins  —  fine  guard  - 
two  bridges  —  curious  gateway. 

After  leaving  Burgos  we  travel  over  the  great 
dreary  plain  of  Castile  —  villages  dismal  dirt  holes 

4 


—  arrive  for  the  night  at  hotel  at  village  of  Lerma  - 
great  stable  full  of  mules  and  horses. 

Kitchen  —  fireplace  on  a  raised  platform  of  brick 
in  centre  of  the  room  —  a  huge  funnel  above  it  for 
chimney  —  benches  round  it  where  travellers  sit- 
lamp  hangs  hitched  to  a  cord  —  half  a  kid  turning 
on  spit,  other  half  boiling  —  supped  on  kid,  also  old 
fowl  well  blackened  in  cooking  —  wine  in  a  pitcher 

—  violet  coloured  and  an  excellent  conserve. 

Slept  four  in  a  room  —  were  awakened  at  twelve 
to  resume  our  journey  —  chocolate  served,  of 
course. 

Tuesday,  14th.  —  At  daybreak  passed  Aranda 
del  Duero  —  country  arid  and  dismal  —  at  next 
post  wound  up  mountains  —  bleak  and  barren  - 
foggy.  Breakfast  at—  —a  miserable  inn  —  chim 
ney  a  square  room  the  walls  of  which  verge 
to  a  narrow  aperture  whence  the  smoke  escapes 
and  light  enters  so  that  the  kitchen  may  be  called 
all  chimney  —  fire  on  round  platform  of  brick  with 
benches  round  —  chimney  hung  around  with  sau 
sages  and  dried  meat. 

Our  conductor  or  conde  or  mayoral  dressed  in 
brown  jacket  with  collar  of  red,  blue,  and  yellow 
patches  and  similar  patches  on  the  sleeves  —  sheep 
skin  trousers  and  fur  cap. 

Cross  the  mountains  of  Somosierra  the  confines 
of  Old  and  New  Castile  —  a  long  pass  among 
brown  mountains  some  cov[ere]d  with  snow  —  here 
Napoleon  I  and  his  army  were  almost  driven  back 
by  a  storm  —  at  Somosierra  peasant  girls  come 
around  us  with  little  reliques  begging  charity  — 
por  el  buen  Dios  —  one  a  very  pretty  brunette.  The 
passes  of  these  mount  [ainjs  overlook  great  tracts  of 
arid  country  —  brown  —  with  groups  of  muleteers 

5 


winding  along  the  roads  —  Castilian  seated  on  his 
mule  with  his  great  wrap  and  mantle  flowing  round 
him  —  his  montero  cap  and  his  swarthy  face  looks 
with  vast  hauteur  on  all  the  world. 

Fine  look  out  Somosierra  towards  New  Cas 
tile  —  mount [ain]s  of  fine  brown  and  black  tint,  some 
scantily  wooded  —  others  with  snow  —  clouds  — 
mist.  Pass  Buitrago  —  miserable  town  with  old 
ragged  walls.  Arrive  at  six  at  -  — .  Officer  on 
horseback,  preceded  by  foot  soldier,  arrives  —  horse 
man  in  brown  mantle  rides  up  and  rides  into  the 
lower  story  of  the  house  —  fine  long-limbed  muscu 
lar  fellow  with  leather  gaiters  —  spurs  —  sash  - 
round  hat  —  short  jacket  —  throws  of [f]  his  brown 
mantle. 

While  at  supper  a  soldier  enters  our  room- 
swarthy,  meagre,  with  his  arm  in  a  sling  —  inquires 
whether  we  want  an  escort  in  the  morning.  We 
agree  to  give  four  dollars  for  four  soldiers  to  accom 
pany  us  a  league  and  a  half  thro'  a  dangerous  part 
of  the  road  —  the  first  stage. 

Go  to  bed  between  eight  and  nine  —  sleep  well 
(the  sleeping  rooms  very  tolerable).  Start  at  four 
in  the  morning  of 

Wednesday,  15th. — After  having  taken  chocolate. 

Misty   morning  —  soldiers   run   ahead   of   carriage 

-wild   looking    mountain    scenery.     As    the   day 

breaks  we  leave  mountains  and  come  into  naked 

country.    Change  horses  and  take  chocolate  at  -  — . 

Arrive  at  Madrid  at  ten  —  difficulty  in  getting 
quarters  —  put  up  at  the  Fonda  del  Angel. 

Call  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  not  at  home  —  pass  a 
cold  shivering  day  at  my  lodgings  over  the  brazier 
of  coals  —  go  to  bed  at  nine  o'clock. 

February  16th.  —  Thursday.     This  morning  got 

6 


our  passports  arranged  —  called  on  Mr.  Everett  at 
two  who  took  me  to  Mr.  Rich.1  On  our  way  met 
the  Marchioness  de  Casa  Yrugo  and  her  daughter 
to  whom  he  introduced  me  —  Mr.  Rich  an  American, 
a  book  collector,  showed  me  Ms.  play  of  Lope  de 
Vega2  never  published  —  in  his  own  handwriting  — 
letter  of  Cortez,  etc.  —  lent  me  Ms.  of  Las  Casas' 
Journal  of  Columbus?  —  walked  on  the  Prado'with 
Everett  —  dined  at  hotel  —  in  ev[enin]g  took  tea  at 
Everetts  —  with  Peter  —  Mr.  Colt  there. 

February  17th. — Friday.  After  breakfast  called 
with  Peter  on  Mr.  Rich  —  hired  an  apartment  in 
his  house  at  the  rate  of  five  dollars  a  week  —  looked 
over  his  collection  of  Spanish  works  —  met  at  his 
house  Mr.  Duran,  a  little  pale  man  with  fur  cap  - 
a  black  sheepskin  jacket  under  a  little  black  cloak. 
He  is  a  great  collector  of  Spanish  plays  —  took  him 
for  a  book  dealer  —  found  afterwards  he  was  a  man 
of  large  fortune  —  son  of  a  physician  to  whom  the 
Duchess  of  -  -  had  left  all  the  property  she  could 
dispose  of. 

Dine  at  home  —  pass  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  - 
present  the  Marchioness  de  Yrugo  and  her  daughter 
Narcissa  —  Mr.  Colt,  Mr.   and  Mrs.  Everett  and 
niece  —  Miss  Montgomery  who  is  of  Mr.  Rich's 
family  —  this  day  has  been  rainy  and  chilly. 

February    18th.  —  Saturday.      Change    lodgings 

1  Obadiah    Rich    (1777-1850),    American    Consul    residing    at 
Madrid,  in  whose  apartments  Irving  took  rooms. 

2  Felix  Lope  de  Vega  Carpio  (1582-1635),  the  most  fecund  of 
Spanish  poets.    Cervantes  called  him  "un  verdadero  monstruo  de  la 
naturaleza,"  "a  very  monster  of  nature,"  because  of  the  vast  num 
ber  of  works  he  gave  to  the  public.    He  was  the  author  of  more  than 
fourteen  hundred  comedies,  and  four  hundred  autos  sacramentales, 
or  sacred  dramas,  such  as  passion  and  morality  plays. 

3  The  beautiful  public  promenade  of  Madrid,  which  Irving  else 
where  describes  as  having  "  alleys  of  stately  trees,  .  .  .  ornamented 
with  fine  fountains  and  decorated  with  sculpture." 


for  Mr.  Rich's  —  called  with  Mr.  Everett  on  the 
French  Ambassador,  Marquis  Demoustier1  —  not  at 
home  —  sat  some  tune  with  the  Marchioness,  who 
was  born  in  N[ew]  York  —  called  at  the  Russian  Am 
bassador  Mr.  d'Oubril's2  —  not  at  home  —  found  his 
lady  walking  in  garden  and  reading  while  her  chil 
dren  played  —  a  pale  but  very  pleasing  counte 
nance.  Introduced  me  to  her  niece  —  a  charming 
young  person  —  reads  English  —  left  cards  for  Eng 
lish  Ambassador  Hon.  Fred  Lamb  —  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  met  the  Neapolitan  Ambassador  the  Prince 
Cassaro  —  a  handsome  man,  very  modest. 

Dined  with  Mr.  Colt  —  Don  Thomas  Goffre,  an 
Irish  priest  there  —  a  violent  ultra  —  has  been  thirty- 
five  tunes  in  prison  —  three  times  condemned  to 
death. 

February  19th.  —  Sunday.  Wrote  a  little  this 
morning  at  translation  of  "  Columbus  Journals  "  but 
could  not  make  headway.  At  one  o'clock  Mr. 
Everett  calls  and  takes  me  to  see  Pope's  nuncio, 
Bishop  of  Tyre,  a  tall  thin  pleasant  man,  with  face 
something  like  Hare3  of  Philadelphia  —  not  rigid  - 
frequents  the  Duchess  of  Benavente's  parties  on 
Sunday  ev[enin]gs  and  plays  cards  there.  Called 
on  Duchess  of  Benavente  —  shewn  thro'  suite  of 
six  or  more  rooms  —  one  a  long  salon  richly  car 
peted  —  then  a  round  room  beautifully  furnished 
-  then  a  bedroom  in  blue  silk  with  perfumes  burn 
ing  —  the  Duchess  in  a  small  boudoir  —  her  daughter 
the  Marchioness  Santa  Cruz  and  her  daughter 

1  fiduard  de  Moustier  (1779-1830). 

2  Irving  was  a  constant  visitor  at   the  home  of    the  Russian 
Minister,  and  his  letters  at  this  period  contain  frequent  references 
to  this  charming  family  with  all  of  whose  members  he  soon  became 
a  great  favourite. 

3  Robert  Hare  (1781-1858),  a  well-known  American  scientist. 

8 


Mademoiselle  d'Alvay  there.  The  Marchioness  a 
fine  looking  middle-aged  woman  —  the  grand 
daughter  very  handsome.  The  Duchess  loves  com 
pany,  and  to  have  the  diplomatic  corps  around  her 
-wears  a  black  wig,  ruff,  and  wears  wreaths  of 
flowers. 

Left  cards  for  the  Ambassador  of  Naples  —  called 
on  Mr.  Kenevitz  —  Minister  of  Saxe  —  saw  him 
and  Mad.  de  Kenevitz  whom  I  had  known  at 
Dresden  —  had  a  beautiful  child  with  them  —  called 
on  Mr.  Dedel,  the  Dutch  Minister  —  a  pleasant  Eng 
lish  looking  man  —  speaks  English  —  met  there  the 
Minister  of  Prussia,  who  knew  several  of  my  friends 
in  Dresden  —  called  on  the  Sardinian  Minister  who 
has  a  pretty  little  wife  —  dined  at  Mr.  Everett's 
with  the  family  —  Peter,  Mr.  Colt  and  Mr.  Rich. 

Monday,  20th.  —  Busy  examining  Ms.  and  works 
relative  to  Columbus.  Rec[eive]d  letters  from  Mr. 
Storrow  and  Susan  —  Mr.  Mills  —  Payne  —  Strobel 
and  Iriarti.  Mr.  Colt  called  on  us  —  went  with 
Mr.  Everett  and  called  and  left  cards  for  Minister 
of  Austria  —  charge  d'affaires  of  Sweden  —  called 
on  the  Baron  Lieberman,  Minister  of  Prussia  —  left 
cards  for  the  secretaries,  etc.,  of  English  legation  - 
called  on  the  Ambassador  of  Russia  —  a  pleasant, 
affable  man  —  left  cards  for  Miss  Dalbriick- 
dined  at  the  Fonda  St.  Luis  —  enter  thro'  long 
cafe  —  go  up  a  small  stairs  and  find  a  dungeon-look 
ing  room,  where  Spaniards  are  sitting  at  various 
tables  smoking  cigars.  In  another  room  find  Don 
Thomas,  the  Irish  priest,  seated  alone  dining  —  we 
place  ourselves  at  table  with  him  —  after  dinner  he 
insists  on  paying,  saying  it  is  a  custom  in  Madrid, 
when  acquaintances  meet  for  the  first  time  in  a 
strange  place  he  who  is  first  there  pays  the  bill. 

9 


That's  a  kind  of  trick  often  played  off  on  travellers 
in  strange  cities  —  seeing  an  acquaintance  enter 
cafe  —  they  pay  his  am[oun]t  without  his  knowing 
who  did  it.  Afterwards  take  coffee  in  the  coffee 
room  —  accosted  by  a  sturdy  beggar  who  says  he  had 
fought  for  the  royal  cause,  that  the  priests  above 
all  ought  to  befriend  him  —  Don  Thomas  has  him 
turned  out  of  cafe  —  the  persons  in  the  caf 6  eye 
Don  Thomas  suspiciously  —  pass  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Rich's  —  the  Miss  -  -  there. 

Tuesday,  21st.  —  Called  this  morn'g  on  Sigr. 
Navarette,  Secretary  to  the  Academy  of  History. 
Showed  me  the  work  concerning  Columbus'  voyage, 
etc.  —  left  card  for  French  Ambassador  and  suite. 
The  Prince  of  Cassaro  (Neapolitan  Minister)  and 
Count  Marguerita,1  charge  d'affaires  of  Sardinia,  called 
on  me.  Cards  left  by  others  of  the  diplomatique 
corps.  Walked  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Everett  on  the 
Prado  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mr.  Colt  there 
-Marchioness  de  Casa  Yrugo  and  her  daughter 
Narcissa  came  in. 

Wednesday,  22d.  —  Looked  over  Mss.  in  Mr. 
Rich's  library.  Bought  hat  —  six  dollars  —  walked 
with  Mr.  Ryan  to  see  the  King's  Palace,  etc.  —  dined 
with  Peter  at  Fonda  St.  Luis  —  passed  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Rich's  —  Mrs.  McKay  and  her  step-daughter 
there  and  a  Spanish  officer  of  Marines  —  a  great 
talker  —  weather  fine  —  cloudless  —  hot  in  sun  tho' 
chilly  in  our  lodgings. 

Thursday,  23d.  —  Wrote  to  Leslie  —  drew  on  Mr. 
Wiggin  for  fifty  pounds  —  called  with  Mr.  Everett 
on  the  Duke  de  Infantado.  A  thin,  withered  man, 

1  Irving  seems  to  give  the  French  form  of  a  name  which  was 
probably  " Margarita"  (i.e.,  pearl),  or  some  variant  of  this  word. 
See  entry  for  March  5. 

10 


very  polite  — -  amiable  and  Everett  says  honorable 

-  afterwards  left  cards  at  Duke  of  Berwick's  and 
— ,  the  Master  of  Ceremonies  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 

Rich's  —  Marchioness  de  Casa  Yrugo  and  her 
daughter  there. 

Friday,  24th.  —  Felt  good  for  nothing  —  walked 
in  the  Retiro  —  fine  view  of  dist[ant]  mountains. 
Sun  very  warm.  Went  with  the  Dalbrucks  to  see 
the  Casino  of  the  Queen  —  called  to  see  the  collec 
tion  of  paintings  of  a  prince  lately  deceased  —  dined 
at  Fonda  St.  Luis  —  eight  francs  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Rich's  —  Mr.  Colt  there. 

February  25th.  —  Saturday.  Wrote  to  Mr.  Stor- 
row  —  Susan  and  Payne  —  sent  letters  by  French 
Ambassador's  cousin  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Sunday,  26th.  —  Read  in  Bouterweck  —  walked 
with  Peter  in  the  Retiro  —  talked  of  story  on  a 
subject  taken  from  "El  Conde  Lucanor  " l  —  weather 
clear  and  beautiful  —  snowy  mountains  of  the 
Guadarrama2  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  took  tea 
with  the  Rich's. 

Monday,  27th.  —  Rec[eive]d  letter  from  Payne 
communicating  the  success  of  "  Rougemont "  -  wrote 
to  Mr.  Johnston  and  to  Payne  —  walked  in  Retiro 

-  delicious    weather  —  rec[eive]d    Eng[lish]    news 
papers  from  Mr.   Ryan  —  dined  at  home  —  took 
tea  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mr.  Colt  there. 

Tuesday,  28th.  —  Mr.  Ryan  called  and  left  news 
papers  —  read  all  the  morn'g  in  Bouterweck  — 
dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  took  tea  at  Mr.  Rich's 
—  Sir  Paul  Bagot  and  a  young  Englishman  there 

1  "  The  Count  of  Lucanor,"  by  Pedro  Calder6n  de  la  Barca  (1600- 
1681),  one  of  the  most  notable  of  the  Spanish  dramatists. 

2  The  Sierra  de  Guadarrama,  on  the  southern  slopes  of  which 
the  province  of  Madrid  is  situated. 

11 


and  an  Amferican]  lady  and  her  daughter  from  Se 
ville.  Sir  Paul  gave  account  of  his  travelling  on 
horseback  in  Estremadura  with  a  companion  - 
in  quest  of  copper  mines  —  lost  his  way  and  after 
several  days'  travelling  found  himself  not  more  than 
sixty  miles  from  Seville  from  whence  he  had  started. 

At  quarter-past  eight  went  to  Mr.  d'Oubril's,  the 
Russian  Minister  —  Mad.  d'Oubril,  her  niece,  the 
Baron  Meyerdorff,  Counsellor  of  the  legation,  Count 
Panin,  the  Secretary  —  the  ladies  working  at  a 
table  —  pretty  children  —  visitors  in  course  of  ev[e- 
nin]g  —  the  Duke  of  Berwick  who  is  a  descend[an]t 
from  the  pretender  and  calls  himself  a  Stuart. 

General ,  a  Spanish  grandee  (a  little  man),  and 

his  son  —  stay  till  quarter  past  eleven. 

March  1.—  Wednesday.  Read  in  Bouterweck  - 
called  on  Mr.  Ryan  —  saw  Mrs.  R.  and  sister  - 
walk  on  Prado  and  out  of  the  gate  —  dined  at  home 

-  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Marchioness  d' Yrugo 
and  daughter  and  Mr.  Rich  and  ladies  there. 

Thursday,  2d.  —  Read  Bouterweck,  etc.  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mr.  Ryan  and  family  there. 

Friday,  3.  —  Passed  morning  in  the  garden  of  the 
Re  tiro  reading  La  Huerta's  Essay  —  lovely  weather 

-  warm  —  almond  trees  in  blossom  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Rich's  —  Marchioness  d' Yrugo  there. 

Saturday,  4th.  —  Read  in  Aristotle  —  visited  the 
gallery  of  paintings.    Our  trunks  arrive  from  Irun  - 
carriage  eight  dollars  —  passed  ev[enin]g  at  Baron 
de  Kenevitz's  —  the  Count  -   — ,  Baron  Meyerdorff 
and  General  -     -  there. 

March  ^.  —  Sunday.  All  day  studying  Aris 
totle's  Poetics  —  dined  at  Mr.  Everett's  with  Peter, 
en  famille  —  ev[enin]g  at  a  soiree  at  the  Marchioness 
de  Casa  Yrugo  —  met  there  the  Prussian  Minister 

12 


—  the  Sardinian  charge  d'affaires  (Count  Solar  de 
la  Marguerita)  and  his  lady  —  Mr.  O'Shay1  and 
family  —  etc. 

Monday,    6th.  —  Finished    Aristotle's    Poetics  — 
rec[eive]d   letter   from   Mills  —  dined    with    Peter 
and  Colt  at  table  d'hote  —  three  fr[ancs]  —  met  Sir 
Paul  Bagot  and  Mr.  Barrett  there  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Marquis  Demoustier  —  French  Minister  —  with  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Everett  —  met  there  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Dedel 
-  the  Prussian]  Minister  —  Mons.  de  Kenevitz  - 
Mr.  Beauressaire  —  walk  home  at  night  —  streets 
dimly  lighted  —  long,  obscure  entrances  to  houses  - 
etc. 

Tuesday,  7th.  —  Read  SchlegePs  Remarks  on  Span- 
fish]  poet[ry].  The  Russ[ian]  Minister  called  and  in 
vited  me  to  dine  with  him  on  Thursday  —  walked 
to  the  palace  —  dined  at  home  —  walked  in  ev[enin]g 
on  Retiro  —  delicious  weather  —  the  walks  crowded 

—  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Marchioness  d'Yrugo 
there%and  her  daughter. 

Wednesday,  8th.  —  Read  a  little,  but  felt  unfit  for 
any   occupation  —  walked   in   the   Retiro  —  warm 
weather  —  reposed  on  grass  in  shade  of  an  almond 
tree  —  full  of  blossoms  and  swarming  with  bees  - 
read  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  - 
Mrs.  O'Shay,  Mrs.  Ryan  and  sister,  etc.,  etc.,  there. 

Left  cards  for  Dutch  Minister  —  read  Marmontel's 
"Critical  Remarks"  till  midnight. 

March  9th.  —  Thursday.     Read  in  Sarmiento2  - 
received  letters  from  Payne,  enclosing  one  from  E.  I. 
and  another  from  Medwin.     That  of  E.  I.  full  of 


1  In  the  home  of  this  Madrid  family  —  really  O'Shea  —  Irving 
became  a  constant  visitor. 

2  Friar  Martin  Sarmiento,  a  Benedictine  monk  and  famous  man 
of  letters  (1692-1770),  born  in  Segovia. 

13 


gratifying  intelligence  —  dined  at  Russian  Minister's 

-  present,  Baron   Kenevitz  —  Mr.  Everett  —  Mr. 
Stanhope  —  Baron  Meyerdorff  —  Mr.  Beauressaire 

-  Count  Panin  —  ev[enin]g  at  a  concert  at   Don 
Sidonio's. 

Friday,  10th.  —  Read  in  Sarmiento  —  went  this 
morn'g  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Everett  —  Miss  Everett 

-  Mr.  Rich  and  Peter  to  see  the  Royal  palace  - 
King's    Dispecho,    or    Cabinet  —  books  —  military 
affairs  of  Spain.     The  Visions  of  the  Most  Holy 
St.  Bridget. 

Queen's  private  apartments  —  piano  —  basket 
with  music  and  books  —  the  latter  La  Escala  de  la 
Cruz  —  Infanta's  ^apartment  —  bookcase  full  of 
religious  books  —  visit  Mr.  Lopes'1  estudio  —  the 
painter  to  the  king  —  a  man  rather  vain  and  talka 
tive  —  dined  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  Mr.  Cook  and  Mr. 
Colt  there. 

March  llth.  —  Saturday.  Read  in  Velasquez  — 
History  of  Spanish  poetry  —  felt  very  much  de 
pressed  —  visited  the  Museum  of  Paintings  —  met 
the  Everetts  there  —  left  cards  for  Count  and 
Countess  de  Solar  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Everett's  —  French  secretary  of  legation  there, 
spoke  of  exhausted  state  of  treasury  —  troops  un 
paid —  Duke  and  Inf[anta]  had  applied  to  French 
[minister]  for  troops  to  send  to  frontier.  His  own 
were  unpaid  and  disaffected  —  did  not  dare  to  send 
them.  Yet  talked  of  sending  100,000  men  to  Amer 
ica2  —  nobody  about  the  king  dares  to  tell  him  the 
truth. 

1  The  distinguished  Spanish  painter,  Vicente  L6pez  y  Portafia 
(1772-1850). 

2  Spanish  power  was  destroyed  in  South  America  by  1825,  the 
King  at  that  time  being  Ferdinand  VII,  and  the  Queen,  his  third 
wife,  Marie  Amelie  of  Saxony. 

14 


Thermomfeter]  this  day  sixty-five. 

Sunday ,  12th.  —  After  breakfast  walk  on  Prado  - 
Inspection  of  Swiss  guards  —  walk  in  Retiro  — 
write  this  day  to  Mills  and  Leslie  —  Peter  writes  to 
Mrs.  Van  Wart  —  send  letters  by  Mr.  Barrett  who 
goes  with  courier  —  dine  with  Mr.  Rich  and  Peter 
at  a  restaurateur's  —  walk  in  Retiro  —  full  of  peo 
ple  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  very  heavy  and  sleepy. 

Monday,  13th.  —  Receive  letter  from  Strobel, 
enclosing  one  from  Sullivan  and  in  the  ev[enin]g  one 
from  Leslie  —  write  to  Strobel  and  Sullivan  —  walk 
outside  of  the  walls  —  ev[enin]g  take  tea  at  Mr. 
Everett's. 

March  14th.  —  Friday.  Read  in  Mariana's  his- 
t[ory]  —  accomp[an]y  the  Everetts  and  Peter  to  the 
Academy  —  a  superb  painting  by  Murillo  on  a 
nauseous  subject  —  Queen  Isabella  washing  the 
sores  of  mendicants  —  two  fine  paintings  by  him, 
" The  Dreams"  of  a  nobleman  and  his  wife  about 
founding  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  —  several  superb 
Titians  in  a  private  chamber  and  a  portrait  full 
length  of  Napoleon  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at 
the  Russ[ian]  Minister's  —  Mr.  Lievermann  there. 

Wednesday,      15th.  —  Much      depressed  —  wrote 
letters  by  the  French  courier  to  E.  Irving  and  Mr. 
Storrow  and  by  the  English  courier  to  Leslie - 
dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mrs. 
Ryan  and  her  sister  there. 

Thursday,  16th.  —  Weary  and  out  of  order  - 
walked  out  of  the  gate  towards  the  meadow - 
dined  at  home  —  this  day  the  king  arrived  in  town 

—  walked  after  dinner  to  the  palace  to  see  the  troops 

—  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  with  Peter. 

Friday,  17th.  —  Walked  in  Retiro  —  read  Moya 
y  Contreras  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 

15 


DedeFs,  the  Dutch  Minister  —  Count  Donloff,  sec 
retary  of  Prussian  Legation  there. 

Saturday,  18th.  —  Commenced  lessons  in  Spanish 
at  half-past  ten  —  went  to  court  with  Mr.  Everett  — 
there  was  a  Besamanos1  in  honour  of  Queen's  Saint's 
day  —  St.  Joseph  —  was  presented  to  the  king  — 
Queen  —  Don  Carlos  and  Don  Francisco.  Intro 
duced  likewise  to  Mr.  Lamb  —  ev[enin]g  walked  in 
Retire  —  met  the  Everetts  there  —  took  tea  with 
the  Riches. 

March  19th.  —  Sunday.  Called  after  breakfast 
on  Colt  —  hi  course  of  day  called  on  the  Ryans  — 
left  cards  at  Sig'r  Solanes'  -  -  dined  at  Mr.  Ryan's  - 
Mr.  Colt  and  Julian  Rich  there  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Everett's,  with  the  Riches  —  exceedingly  list 
less  and  dispirited  part  of  the  day. 

Monday,  20th.  —  Rec[eive]d  letters  from  Mrs. 
Johnston  —  Bordeaux  —  and  Peter  rec[eive]d  one 
from  Beasley  —  at  half-past  twelve  o'clock  walked 
out  with  Peter  —  went  thro'  by-streets  past  the 

convent  of .     A   number   of   muleteers   were 

teasing  two  girls  —  chasing  them  —  throwing  stones 
at  them.  One  overtook  one  of  the  girls  and  was  pull 
ing  her  about  rather  rudely  when  a  young  soldier 
(who  perhaps  was  her  cher  ami)  came  up,  drew  his 
sabre  and  struck  the  muleteer  in  the  head.  The 
latter  drew  off,  and  taking  off  his  hat  and  putting 
his  hand  to  his  head,  found  by  the  blood  on  it  that 
he  was  wounded.  The  moment  he  saw  the  blood  he 
began  to  howl.  His  companions  came  up  furious. 
A  soldier  on  duty  with  a  musket  and  bayonet  ap 
proached  —  the  soldier  who  had  wounded  the  mule- 

1  I.e.,  hand-kissing,  a  grand  ceremony,  in  which  all  the  nobility, 
clergy,  military,  and  other  people  of  high  rank  kiss  the  hands  of  the 
Queen  and  royal  family. 

16 


teer  scampered.  A  companion  of  his  kept  the  mule 
teers  in  check  and  covered  his  retreat.  A  muleteer 
in  revenge  attacked  the  other  girl.  I  pushed  him 
back.  He  was  about  to  attack  me  when  the  young 
soldier's  companion  stepped  in  in  my  defence.  The 
soldier  on  duty  finally  interfered  and  ordered  back 
the  muleteers  and  we  continued  our  walk. 

Went  out  by  the  gate  of  Atocha  and  along  the 
canal  to  the  bridge  of  Segovia  —  then  returned 
home  thro'  the  city  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Rich's  — Mr.  Colt,  Mrs.  O'Shay  and  Miss 
Montgomery]  there. 

Tuesday,  21st.  —  Walked  in  Retiro  with  my  Span 
ish  master  —  read  some  of  Molina's  plays  —  dined 
at  home  —  passed  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Wednesday,  22d.  —  Walked  to  palace,  with  my 
Sp[a]n[ish]  master  —  read  plays  of  Molina  —  Mr. 
Ryan  called  on  us  and  Mr.  Colt  —  walk  with  them 
to  Puerta  del  Sol  and  afterwards  visited  museum  — 
dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mar 
chioness  d'Yrugo  and  Narcissa  there  —  afterwards 
went  to  Mr.  Everett's. 

March  23d.  —  Thursday.    At  chapel  this  morn'g 
in  the  palace  —  High  mass  by  the  Pope's  nuncio  - 
king  and  princes   and  all   the   court  —  afterwards 
the  king  washed  the  feet  of  thirteen  poor  persons  - 
served  them  at  table  and  gave  them  each  a  piece  of 
cloth  and  linen.1 

In  the  afternoon  king  and  queen  and  princes 
walked  thro'  the  city  visiting  churches  —  were  fol 
lowed  by  military. 

1  The  religious  ceremonies  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  were 
still  celebrated  in  Spain  with  all  the  pomp  and  glory  of  the  Middle 
Ages.  Processions  of  priests  and  friars,  during  which  the  noise  and 
bustle  of  the  city  suddenly  ceased,  were  an  every-day  occurrence, 
and,  as  we  see,  even  Royalty  took  its  part  in  the  celebrations. 

17 


Dined  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  present  Mr. ,  Mr. 

Mr.  Colt  and  Peter.     This  day  rec[eive]d  a 


letter  from  Payne  giving  account  of  his  play  being 
withdrawn. 

Friday,  24th.  —  Good  Friday  —  and  as  bad  a 
day  as  could  well  be  —  cloudy  —  cold  —  harsh 
and  windy  —  everybody  depressed  —  called  at  Mr. 
Everett's  in  the  course  of  the  morn'g  —  the  streets 
silent  —  no  bell  rings  —  no  carriage  to  be  seen  — 
only  here  and  there  a  muleteer  —  the  sentinels  on 
duty  with  reversed  arms  —  the  churches  shut  — 
the  very  beggars  seem  to  have  dis [appeared].  Felt 
uncommonly  comfortless  and  depressed  —  took  tea 
at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mr.  Colt  there  —  went  to  bed  at 
half-past  eight  and  extinguished  the  day  as  soon  as 
possible. 

Saturday,  25th.  —  Wrote  a  little  at  life  of  "Co 
lumbus"  -  great  ringing  of  bells  in  commemoration 
of  Resurrection  —  dined  at  home  —  Mr.  Barrett 
called  —  passed  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Sunday,  26th.  —  A  chilly  uncomfortable  day  - 
could  not  keep  myself  warm  in  the  house  nor  apply 
myself   to   anything  —  rewrote   letter   to    Mills - 
Smith    arrived  —  dined    at    Mr.    Everett's  —  Mr. 
Smith,  Mr.  Rich,  Mr.  Ryan  and  Peter  there. 

Monday,  27th.  —  Rewrote  article  ab[out]  "  Colum 
bus  "  -  rec[eive]d  letters  from  H.  Van  Wart  and  from 
Henry  —  Mr.  Balmaseda  called  on  me  and  told  me 
my  bill  on  Mr.  T.  Wiggins  for  fifty  pounds  had  not 
been  accepted  for  want  of  advice  —  wrote  to  Mr. 
Wiggins  by  this  evening's  post  advising  him  and 
requesting  him  to  pay  the  bill  in  time  —  Smith 
dined  with  us  —  in  the  ev[enin]g  Marchioness  de 
Yrugo  and  Mr.  Colt  came  in  —  went  to  bed  at  half- 
past  eight. 

18 


Tuesday,  28th.  —  Called  with  Mr.  Rich  on  Mr. 
Wiseman,  Banker  —  arranged  to  draw  on  Mr. 
Storrow  —  Mr.  W.  offered  me  every  accommoda 
tion  in  my  money  matters  —  called  with  Mr.  Rich 
and  one  of  the  Mr.  Wisemans  on  Don  —  -  Ber- 
mudoz,  an  old  gent[leman]  who  had  written  lives 
of  the  Spanish  painters  —  which  has  been  translated 
into  Italian  —  has  an  Ms.  "  History  of  Painters  and 
Paintings"  in  several  vol[ume]s  and  another  of  "  An 
tiquities  of  Spain"  —  he  is  still  busy  —  is  very  old 

—  very  respectable  —  well  dressed  in  black  —  hair 
white. 

Called  at  Mr.  Balmaseda's  to  draw  on  Mr.  Wise 
man  but  he  was  not  at  home  —  in  ev[enin]g  he 
wrote  me  a  note  telling  me  the  affair  of  the  Dr[a]ft 
on  Mr.  Wiggin  would  be  settled  to  my  convenience 

—  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mrs.  O'Shay  and  Miss 
Montgomery]  there. 

March  29th.  —  Wednesday.  Called  on  Mr. 
Everett,  not  at  home  —  on  Mrs.  Ryan  —  walked 
on  Prado  —  called  on  Smith  —  read  and  took 
Spanish  lesson  —  went  to  French  Ambassador  to 
dinner  at  six  —  the  company  were  already  at  table, 
so  I  retired  without  going  hi  —  passed  ev[enin]g  at 
home. 

Thursday,  30th.  —  Wrote  at  life  of  "Columb[us]." 
Drew  bill  on  Mr.  Storrow  at  thirty  days  sight  for 
2,500  francs  in  favour  of  Mr.  Wiseman  —  wrote  to 
Mr.  S[torrow]  advising  him  of  the  same  —  called 
with  Mr.  Rich  at  the  Royal  Lithographic  printing 
office  —  saw  them  print  a  portrait  of  Olivarez  — 
called  on  Marchioness  Desmoustier  to  make  my 
excuses  for  not  being  at  dinner  there  —  passed  a 
very  pleasant  hour  in  conversation  with  her  —  a 
French  general  there  —  walked  after  dinner  on  the 

19 


Retire  with  Peter  —  beautiful  afternoon  —  saw  the 
king,  queen,  and  princes  driving  up  and  down  the 
Prado  —  ev[enin]g  Mr.  Colt  and  Mr.  Smith  took 
tea  at  Mr.  Rich's. 

Friday,  31st.  —  Wrote  at  life  of  "  Columbus"  - 
dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  walk  in  Re  tiro  —  met 
Mrs.  O'Shay  and  Miss  Montg[omer]y,  who  return 
and  pass  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.   Rich's  —  the  Ryans, 
O'Shays  and  Mr.  Smith  there. 

April  1st.  —  Saturday.  Busy  all  the  morn'g  at 
" Columbus "  -call  with  Smith  at  Marchioness 
d'Yrugo  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rich. 

Sunday,  2d.  —  Wrote  at  " Columbus"  —  walked  to 
Convent  of  Franciscans  to  see  a  ceremony  but  was 
too  late  —  after  dinner  walked  in  the  Retiro  —  beau 
tiful  weather  —  met  the  Chevalier  Oviedo  on  the 
Prado  —  just  arrived  from  Bordeaux  —  ev[enin]g 
called  at  Russian  and  Dutch  ministers'  but  they 
were  all  going  to  the  Duchess  of  Benavente's. 

Monday,  3d.  —  My  birthday  —  wrote  a  little  in 
the  morn'g  at  " Columbus"  -dressed  and  went  to 
the  palace  to  witness  the  ceremony  of  the  Queen's 
washing  the  hands  of  poor  women  and  serving  them 
at  table  —  went  with  Mr.  Rich  to  see  a  private 
library  he  is  about  purchasing  —  dined  at  home  - 
took  tea  at  Mr.  Rich's. 

This  day  Peter  rec[eive]d  letter  from  Mr.  Strobel. 

Tuesday,  4th. — Wrote  at "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g 
walked  in  the  Retiro  —  Mr.  Colt  and  Mr.  Smith 
take  tea  at  Mr.  Rich's. 

April  5th.  —  Wednesday.  Write  and  read  about 
Columbus  —  guns  fired  to-day  on  account  of  the 
birth  of  young  Prince  last  night  —  son  to  Prince 
Carlos  —  ev[enin]g  walked  in  Retiro  with  Peter  - 

20 


met  Mr.  and  Miss  Everett  and  walked  with  them  — 
soft,  delightful  weather  —  retired  part  of  garden  - 
twilight  —  sound  of  bells  from  the  city  —  military 
music  from  Prado  —  took  tea  at  Mrs.  O'Shay's  — 
the  Riches,  d'Yrugo  and  Miss  Montg[omer]y  there 

—  Mrs.  O'Shay  lives  in  the  Donatz  palace  —  went 
over  some  part  of  it  —  immense  building  —  chapel, 
etc. 

Thursday,  6th. — Write  at "  Columbus  "  •  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Friday,  7th.  —  Read  and  try  to  write  but  cannot 
-  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  walk  in  Re  tiro  with 
Peter  —  met  Marchioness  d' Yrugo  on  Prado  with 
her  daughter  and  Miss  Rich  —  walk  home  and 
take  tea  with  them  —  Narcissa  dances  the  Bolero1 
for  us. 

Saturday,  8th. — Wrote  at "  Columbus  "  — ev[enin]g 
walk  in  Prado  —  ev[enin]g  —  Mrs.  O'Shay  and  Miss 
Montg[omer]y. 

Sunday,  9th. — Write  at  " Columbus "  —dine  at 
Mrs.  Everett's  —  present  Mr.  Smith,  Mr.  Rich  and 
Peter. 

Mr.  Wiseman  called  on  me  to-day. 

Monday,  10th.  — Write  at  "Columb[us]"  —  walk 
in  ev[enin]g  in  Retiro  —  take  tea  at  Mr.  Ryan's  — 
the  Riches,  Mr.  Montg[omer]y  —  Senora  Hill,  a 
French  lady,  sings  charmingly. 

Tuesday,  llth.  — Write  at  "Columb[us]"  -ev[e- 
nin]g  walk  to  the  Palace  —  fine  ev[enin]g  —  tho' 
showers. 

Wednesday,  12th.  —  Write  all  day  at  Columbus  - 
ev[enin]g  walk  in  Retiro  —  take  tea  at  Mr.  Rich's 

—  the  O'Shays,  Ryans,  d'Yrugos,  etc.,  there. 
Thursday,    13th.  —  Wrote    at    "  Columb[us] " 

1  A  favourite  Spanish  national  dance.. 
21 


hist[ory]  —  dined  at  home  —  wrote  letters  to  Mr. 
Storrow  and  V[an]  Wart  to  go  by  Mr.  Montgomery  — 
Peter  wrote  to  Storrow  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Friday,  14th.  —  Wrote  at  "  Columb[us] "  —  wrote 
letter  to  Payne  to  go  by  Mr.  Montg[omer]y  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  took  leave  of  Colt. 

Saturday,  15th.  —  Wrote  at  "Columb[us]''  — dine 
at  home  —  after  dinner  accomp[an]y  Mr.  Rich  and 
Peter  to  a  painter's  to  look  at  some  originals  —  a 
beautiful  Raphael  —  subject  the  Farnarina1  with 
Nippers  and  teeth  in  her  hand  —  a  Corregio  —  a 
fine  Carravaggio  —  subject  a  party  playing  on 
violin  and  guitars  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  the 
O'Shays  there. 

April  16th.  —  Sunday.  Morning  on  the  Re  tiro  — 
reading  "  Columb[us] " — beautiful  weather —  dine  at 
home  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Monday,  1 7th.  —  Write  a  little  at  "  Columb[us] "  — 
read  in  library  of  Jesuits  —  call  at  Mr.  Balma- 
seda's  and  settled  about  draft  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Rich's  —  Mrs.  Everett  there. 

Tuesday,  18th.  —  Wrote  at  "  Columb[us] "  -  dined 
at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Fountain  —  take  tea  at  Mr. 
Everett's. 

Wednesday,  19th.—-  Wrote  a  little  at  "  Columb[us] " 
-  ev[enin]g    walk    in    Retiro  —  take    tea    at    Mr. 
Rich's  —  Sir  Paul  Bagot  and  Mr.  Barrett  there. 

Thursday,  20th.  —  Write  letters  to  Mills,  Leslie, 
Newton  by  Mr.  Rich  —  walked  in  Prado  —  joined 
by  d'Oubril  and  Barrett  —  Mr.  Rich  set  off  this 
evening  with  John  for  London. 

Friday,  21st.  —  Wrote  at  "Columb[us]"  -dine 
at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's. 

1  Fornarina,  the  beautiful  model  of  whom  Raphael  was  enam 
oured. 

22 


Saturday,  22d.  —  Wrote  at  "  Columb[us] "  -  rainy 
day  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Sunday,  23d.  —  Wrote  at  "Columb[us]" — rainy 
day  —  dined  with  Peter  at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Monday,  24th.  —  Wrote  at "  Columb[us] "  -  Peter 
rec[eive]d  letters  from  Beasley  and  from  E.  I.  — 
dated  March  14  —  all  well  and  thriving  —  ev[enin]g 
go  to  Mr.  d'Oubril's  —  met  there  the  Prussian 
minister,  Dutch  M[iniste]r,  and  lady  —  Count 
Panin,  French  Secretary,  etc. 

Tuesday,  25th.  —  Write  all  day  at "  Columb[us] "  - 
weather  cool  —  cloudy  —  ev[enin]g  Smith  calls  in 

—  Marchioness  —  write  till  twelve. 

Wednesday,  26th.  —  All  day  writing  at  "Colum- 
b[us] "  —  the  Russ[ian]  Minister  and  Mr.  -  -  called 

—  ev[enin]g  walk  in  the  Retiro  —  Marchioness  and 
Narcissa  and  Mrs.  O'Shay  and  Miss  Montg[omer]y 
take  tea  with  Mrs.  Rich. 

Thursday,  27th.  —  Wrote  but  little  to-day,  fre 
quently  interrupted  —  rec[eive]d  letter  from  Mr. 
Storrow  —  dined  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's 

—  music  —  Miss  Hill  there. 

Friday,  28th.  —  Write  all  day  and  till  eight 
o '  clo  ck  in  e v  [enin]  g  at "  Columb  [us] ' '  -  dine  at  home 

—  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  O'Shay's  with  the  family. 
Saturday,     29th.  —  Wrote     at     "  Columbjus] " 

dined  at  home  —  siesta  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Sunday,  30th.  —  Write  all  day  at  "  Columb[us] " 
ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  return  and  write  till 
twelve  at  night. 

May  1st.  —  Monday.  All  day  noting  and  arrang 
ing  chapter  for  "  Columb[us] "  -ev[enin]g  Mar 
chioness  comes  in  —  go  to  Mr.  Everett's  —  cloudy 
weather  and  cool. 

Tuesday,  2d.  —  Make  notes  for  "Col[umbus]" 

23 


at  half-past  twelve  take  lunch  with  Mr.  Everett  — 
set  off  for  [at]  two  for  Aranjuez1  with  Mr.  Everett, 
Mrs.  E.,  Miss  E.,  Mr.  Smith  and  Peter  —  Aran 
juez  seven  leagues  —  arrive  after  six. 

Wednesday,  3d.  —  Make  notes  for  "Hist[ory]  of 
Columb[us]"  -walked  in  Garden  de  la  Princesa  — 
visited  Casa  del  Labrador  —  dined  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's, 
the  Russian  Minister,  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Everett,  Mr. 
Smith,  Peter,  Miss  Everett,  Duke  of  Berwick  there 
—  after  dinner  drove  out  towards  the  King's  Farm. 

Thursday,  4th.  —  Visited  Garden  de   la   Isla  - 
write   a   little   at   "Columbfus]"  —  called   at   Mr. 
d'Oubril's —  dined  at  the  inn. 

Friday,  5th.  —  Visit  gardens  —  ev[enin]g  visit  the 
Royal  palace  —  letters  from  P.  M.  Irving  —  write 
a  little  at  "  Columbus." 

Saturday,  6th.  —  Leave  Aranjuez  at  eight  with 
Peter  in  diligence  —  arrive  at  Madrid  at  twelve  — 
find  Mr.  Montgomery  arrived  —  ev[enin]g  at  home 

-  Marchioness  and  Narcissa  —  the  O' Shays. 

May  7th.  —  Sunday.  Write  at  "Columb[us]"  — 
dine  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  the  Ryans  here. 

Monday,  8th.  —  Write  all  day  at  "  Columb[us] "  — 
Mr.  Everett  calls  —  dine  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Everett's  with  Peter. 

Tuesday,  9th.  —  Torrents  of  rain  —  write  all  day  at 
"  Columbfus] "  -  dine  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  home 

-  send  letter  to  Mr.  Henry  —  consul  at  Gibraltar 

-  write  till  twelve  o'clock  at  night. 

Wednesday,  10th.  —  Fine  weather  —  write  all  day 
at  "Columb[us]"  —  ev[enin]g  went  with  the  Riches 
to  Mr.  Everett's. 

Thursday,  llth. — All  day  at ' '  Columbfus] ' '  —rainy 

1  Once  the  seat  of  the  Spanish  court  situated  on  the  river 
Tagus. 

24 


weather  —  letter  from  Nat.  Johnston,  dated  Bor 
deaux,  April  29  —  Mrs.  Rich  receives  one  from  Mr. 
R.  from  Paris  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  Rich's  — Mar 
chioness  and  daughter  and  Miss  Montg[omer]y  there. 

Friday,  12th.  —  Morn'g  sketch  out  subject  for 
chapter  —  head  weary  —  walk  in  Retiro  —  lie  down 
—  after  dinner  resume  labour  and  write  twelve 
pages  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  rainy  day. 

Saturday,  13th.  —  Write  at  "Columb[us]"  —  dine 
at  home  —  ev[enin]g  Mrs.  Ryan  and  sister  —  write 
till  twelve. 

Sunday,  14th. —  All  day  hammering  at  Roldan's1 
negotiation  with  Columb[us]  -  -  getting  it  into 
form  —  wearied  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's. 

Monday,  15th.  —  Whitsuntide  —  rainy  day  —  get 
up  early— work  all  day  at  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g 
at  home. 

Tuesday,  16th.  —  "Columb[us] "  —  fine  weather  — 
evfeninjg  the  Ryans  at  Mrs.  Rich's  —  Peter  receives 
letter  from  Mr.  Storrow. 

Wednesday,  17th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  evfeninjg  at 
Mr.  Everett's. 

Thursday,  18th.  —  Fine  weather  —  "  Columb[us] " 
-rec[eive]d  letter  from  Payne  —  write  to  Price, 
Johnston,  Marchioness  of  Wellesley  —  Mr.  Rich  — 
ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  Rich's. 

Friday,  19th.  —  Write  at  "  Columb[us] "  —  at  home 
all  day  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  — at  Mrs. 
Rich's  —  twenty  pages. 

Saturday,  20th.  —  Rise  at  half -past  four  —  write 
at  "Columb[us]"  all  day  —  ev[enin]g  Mr.  Dorell  an 

^  1  This  probably  refers  to  the  troubles  Columbus  had  with 
Francisco  Roldan,  left  as  alcalde  on  the  island  of  Isabella,  who 
fomented  disturbances  and  finally,  owing  to  Columbus's  decline  in 
favour  at  the  Spanish  court,  secured  better  terms  than  would  other 
wise  have  been  granted. 

25 


English  gent[leman]  at  Mrs.  Rich's  —  write  before 
going  to  bed  —  twenty-nine  pages. 

Sunday ,  21st.  —  Finished  four  voyages  of  "Colum- 
b[us] "  -  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  Rich's. 

Monday,  22d.  —  Wrote  episode  of  Anawanaba1  — 

felt  in  little  mood  for  work  —  after  dinner  went  to 

see  a  bull-fight  —  three  horses  killed  —  two  wounded 

-  six    or    seven   bulls    killed  —  ev[enin]g    at    Mr. 

Everett's. 

Rec[eive]d  letters  to-day  from  Mr.  Van  Wart  — 
Mr.  Rich  and  Mr.  Henry  of  Gibraltar. 

Tuesday,  23d.  —  Indisposed  to  work  —  drowsy  — 
wrote  one  page  —  walked  in  Retiro  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Theatre  del  Principen  .  .  .2  and  Huenpedos. 

Wednesday,  24th.  —  In  Retiro  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  modern  arrang[emen]t  of  Lope 
de  Vega's  "En  amores  no  hagas  yerros."3 

Thursday,  25th.  —  All  Saints'  Day  —  grand  pro 
cession  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  write. 

Friday,  26th.  —  Retiro  —  dine  at  Mr.  Everett's 
—  ev[enin]g  at  Marchioness  d'Yrugo's. 

Saturday,  27th.  —  Wrote  at  "  Columbfus] "  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  Mrs.  Rich's  —  en  famille. 

Sunday,  28th.  —  Write  all  day  at "  Columb[us] "  — 
dine  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  Mr.  Vaughan  there  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  home  —  write  at  Columbus. 

Monday,  29th.  —  All  day  at "  Columb[us] "  —  from 
five  in  morn'g  until  eight  at  night  —  ev[enin]g  at 

1  This  is  a  puzzling  entry.    Possibly  it  may  have  been  intended 
for  Anacaona,  "the  Golden  Flower,"  a  beautiful  native  of  Xaragua, 
who  at  first  favoured  the  Spaniards,  but  later  became  estranged  from 
them  and  was  executed  after  a  massacre  of  the  natives. 

2  The  name  of  the  play  Irving  saw  is  difficult  to  decipher.    A 
probable  guess  is  that  it  was  "Don  Chico,"  a  sainete  of  the  early 
part  of  the  nineteenth  century,  and  that  the  word  in  the  text  which 
suggests  huespedes,  i.e.,  guests,  may  mean  that  Irving  had  taken 
friends  with  him  to  the  theatre. 

3  "In  love  make  no  slips." 

26 


Mrs.  Everett's  —  the  Ryans,  O'Shays  and  Riches 
there  —  return  home  and  write  a  little. 

Tuesday,  80th.  —  Rise  at  five  —  write  at  "Colum- 
b[us] "  —  feel  heated  —  weary  —  walk  in  Retire  from 
half -past  twelve  to  half-past  two  —  after  dinner 
siesta  then  write  till  past  seven  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs. 
Rich's  —  the  Ryans  there. 

May  31st.  —  Wednesday.    Write  at  "  Columb[us] " 

—  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

June  1st.  —  Thursday.  Letter  from  Beasley  — 
send  letters  to  Payne  and  Mrs.  V.  Wart  —  write  at 
early  life  of  "  Columb[us] "  —  very  nervous  —  flushed 

—  not  capable  of  much   work  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs. 
Everett's  —  this  day  Mr.  Wiseman  called. 

Friday,  2d.  —  All  morn'g  making  notes  out  of 
"History  of  Arragon,"  etc.  —  sound  sleep  of  three 
or  four  hours  after  dinner,  a  great  conqueror  of  the 
nerves — ev[enin]g  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  play  "Un 
amo  desp[iadado]  de  la  boda"  -  very  good  —  Antin 
Beaux  excellent  —  Las  Astuccas  Seguidas  —  this 
day  gave  Mr.  Rich  a  draft  on  Mr.  Wiseman  for 
five  hundred  francs. 

Saturday,  3d.  —  Write  at  "  Columb[us] "  all  morn'g 
—  sleep  soundly  in  afternoon  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs. 
Rich's  —  write  till  near  twelve. 

Sunday,  J^ih. — Write  at  "Columb[us]"  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  write  on  my  return  home  till 
quarter-past  twelve. 

Monday,  5th.  —  Write  a  little  at  "  Columb[us] "  - 
go  to  bull-fight  —  receive  letter  from  Storrow  and 
family  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Ryans  here. 

Tuesday,  6th.  —  All  day  write  at  "Columbfus] " 
ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  this  day  Mrs.  Rich's 
bro[ug]ht  to  bed  of  a  son. 

Wednesday,  7th.  —  This  morn'g  wrote  a  little  at 

27 


"Columb[us] "  but  with  great  difficulty  —  at  twelve 
went  to  Retire  —  lay  under  trees  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Theatre  de  la  Cruz. 

Thursday,  8th.  —  Write  a  little  at "  Columb[us] "  — 
but  with  difficulty  —  write  in  ev[ening]  in  Mr. 
Montgomery] 's  letter  to  Rich  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs. 
Rich's  —  tell  story  of . 

Friday,  9th.  —  Write  a  little  at  "Columb[us]"  — 
call  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  ev[enin]g  walk  in  Retire  — 
garden. 

Saturday,  10th.— Write  little  at  "Columbfus] "  — 
ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  — "El  cafe,"  and 
"Los  dos  viejos  extravagantes" 1  —  Mr.  Everett 
and  Mr.  Smith  there. 

Sunday,  llth.  —  Write  at "  Columb[us] "  —  but  not 
very  much  —  mechanical  work  —  dine  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  —  Mr.  Smith  and  Peter  there. 

June  12th.  —  Monday.  Write  at  "  Columb[us] "  — 
till  eleven  —  went  to  Retiro  —  in  the  course  of  the 
day  wrote  letters  to  the  Storrow  family  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Mrs.  Rich's  — Miss  Montgfomer]y  there  — told 
story  of  Pizzaro  —  weather  continues  very  moderate 
and  showery. 

Tuesday,  13th.  —  Passed  part  of  morn'g  in  Retiro 

-weary  and  heavy  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  la 

Cruz  —  Don  Gil  de  las  Calzas  Verdes  —  the  Majo 

Scrupulosa  —  very     well     entertained  —  rec[eive]d 

letter   and   book   from   Countess   of   Granard. 

Wednesday,  14th.  —  All  the  morn'g  in  Retiro  — 
studying  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Mr.  Everett  and 
Mr.  Smith  call  —  first  put  on  summer  clothes. 

Thursday,  15th.  —  Studied  all  day  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Everett's  —  weather  begins  to  be  warm. 

1  "The  two  old  extravagant  people."  The  play  has  not  been 
identified. 

28 


Friday,  16th.  —  Studying  all  day  —  ev[enin]g  walk 
in  the  Retire  —  meet  Mr.  Everett  —  afterwards  Mr. 
Ryan  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Ryan  there  —  beau 
tiful  moonlight  —  warm  but  pleasant  weather. 

Saturday,  17th.  —  Studying  all  day  —  ev[enin]g 
at  home  —  get  letter  this  day  from  Price  —  get 
twenty  pounds  from  Mr.  Wiseman. 

Sunday,  18th.  —  Cladiere1  —  receive  letter  from 
Mr.  Okell  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Mr.  Montgomery] 
arrives  from  London. 

June   19th.  —  Monday.     Wrote  and  studied  at 
"Columb[us] "  —  at  five  o'clock  went  to  bull  fight  - 
eve[nin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  beautiful  weather  - 
hot  at  midday  —  delightful  morn'gs  and  ev[enin]gs 
—  full  moon. 

Tuesday,  20th.  —  Notes  out  of  "  Cladiere,"  etc.  - 
ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Wednesday,  21st.  —  Reading  "Navarette"  all  the 
morn'g  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  with  the 
Riches  —  "El  Castigo  de  la  Miseria,"  poor  story,  a 
very  farcical  and  whimsical  play  and  some  of  the 
characters  well  played  —  ' '  Saynette ' '  -  "  La  Prueba 
dela ." 

Thursday,  22d.  —  Letter  from  Mills  —  read  in 
"Navarette"  —  make  notes,  etc.  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Ryan's. 

Friday,  23d.  —  Out  of  order,  with  a  cold  —  walk 
in  Retiro  —  eve[nin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Saturday,  2 4th.  —  Wrote  a  little  at  notes  on 
"Columb[us] "  —  Pierre  M.  Irving  arrived  —  passed 
greater  part  of  the  day  talking  with  him  —  strolling 
the  Prado,  etc.  —  ev[enin]g  at  a  ball  at  French  Am- 

1  We  cannot  explain  this  entry,  except  by  supposing  that  Irving 
was  making  extracts  from  the  French  historian,  Jean  Joseph  Cladiere 
(1656-1720). 

29 


bassador's  —  Duke  de  Ranseur  there,  on  his  way  to 
Portugal  as  minister. 

June  25.  —  Sunday.    Read  and  made  a  few  notes 

-  ev[enin]g  walked  on  Prado  —  met  Mr.  and  Miss 
Frizel  who  returned  with  me  and  passed  ev[enin]g 
at  Mrs.  Rich's. 

Monday,  26th.  —  To  see  the  toros  with  the  Mont 
gomery's  and  Don  - 

Little  round-bellied  Spanish  marquis  with  us  — 
a  battered  rake  of  sixty  —  as  round  as  a  pumpkin 
yet  pale  and  withered  in  the  face  —  his  plan  of 
amusement  for  the  day  —  to  the  bull-fight  in  the 
morning  —  then  to  dine  at  a  Fonda  —  to  the  bull 
fight  in  the  evening  —  then  to  the  theatre  —  then 
to  have  a  girl  for  the  night  —  Pierre  dined  with  us 

-  ev[enin]g  visited  the  Russian  Minister's. 
Tuesday,  27th.  —  Pierre  with  us  —  in  the  ev[enin]g 

went  with  him  to  Mr.  Everett's  —  Mr.  Sandt  there. 

Wednesday,  28th.  —  In  the  morning  went  with 
Pierre  —  in  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  Mr.  Frizzel 
there  and  the  Montgomeries  —  have  had  no  dis 
position  to  write  for  several  days  past. 

June  29th.  —  Thursday.  Went  to  court  with  Mr. 
Everett  —  news  of  Emperor  of  Brazil  having  sent 
Constitution  to  Portugal1  —  Pierre  rec[eive]d  letters 
from  home  —  Peter  and  Pierre  wrote  to  Mr.  Stor- 
row,  E.  I.,  Beasley,  etc.  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's 
with  the  Riches  —  cannot  write. 

Friday,  30th.  —  All  day  make  notes  and  extracts 
for  "Columb[us]"  —  ev[enin]g  walk  in  Re  tiro  with 
the  Rich  family  —  afterwards  go  to  Mr.  Ryan's. 

1  Brazil,  Portugal's  most  important  colony,  had  obtained  com 
plete  independence  from  her  about  1823,  with  Don  Pedro  as  con 
stitutional  emperor.  In  1826,  at  the  death  of  John  VI  of  Portugal, 
Don  Pedro  established  the  basis  of  the  present  Portuguese  con 
stitution. 

30 


July  1st.  —  Saturday.  Makes  notes  from  various 
works  for  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Mr. 
and  Miss  Frizzle,  Miss  Montgomery]  and  broth[er], 
Mrs.  O'Shay  here. 

Sunday,  2d.  —  Take  notes  from  various  works  — 
dine  at  Mr.  Everett's  with  Pierre,  Peter,  and  Mr. 
Smith  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  Rich's  —  Marchioness 
and  Narcissa  there. 

Monday,  3d.  —  Visited  ancient  armory1  with  the 
Miss  Montgomeries  —  several  suits  of  Charles  V, 
one  of  Cortes  —  one  of  Cid  —  of  Gonsalvo  of  Cor 
dova  —  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  —  of  El  Rey  Chico 
of  Granada.2 

Visited  King's  library,  handsomely  arranged  — 
attendants  in  embroidered  coats  and  swords. 

Stables  —  fine  cream-coloured  horses  —  weather 
excessively  hot. 

July  4th.  —  Tuesday.  Visited  Mr.  Everett  at 
midday.  —  ev[enin]g  walked  on  Prado  —  incapable 
of  work. 

Wednesday,  5th.  —  Try  to  work  but  incapable  — 
call  with  Pierre  on  Mr.  Everett  and  Smith  for  pass 
port  —  afternoon  visit  the  Military  Museum  with 
Peter  and  Pierre  —  ev[enin]g  walk  on  Prado  with 
family. 

Thursday,  6th.  —  Work  a  little  at  "Columb[us]'; 
—  Peter  receives  letter  from  Beasley  —  ev[enin]g  go 
to  Mr.  Everett's  with  Peter  and  Pierre. 

Friday,  7th.  —  Day  breezy  and  cooler  —  work  a 
little  in  the  morn'g  —  call  on  Mr.  Wiseman  about 

1  The  royal  armory  at  Madrid  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 

2  El  Rey  Chico,  known  as  Boabdil  El  Chico  (The  Younger),  or 
more  commonly  as  Chico  El  Zogoyby  (The  Unlucky),  the  son  of  an 
old  warrior  king  of  Granada.     The  appellation  of  "unlucky"  was 
given  him  because  of  his  repeated  reverses  in  the  battles  that  were 
waged  between  him  and  his  uncle  to  gain  possession  of  Granada. 

31 


money  arrang[emen]t  —  ev[enin]g  walk  in  Retire 
with  Pierre  and  Peter  —  afterwards  at  the  Russian 
Minister's  —  Mr.  Liebemann,  Count  Beauresaire 
there  —  come  home  after  eleven. 

Saturday,  8th.  —  Drew  on  Mr.  Storrow  in  favour  of 
Mr.  Wiseman  at  thirty  days'  sight  for  one  hundred 
pounds  —  rec[eive]d  from  Mr.  Wiseman  160  dollars 
-  wrote  a  little  at  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  walked 
on  Prado  with  Pierre  and  Peter  —  afterwards  at 
Mrs.  Rich's  —  rainy  ev[enin]g. 

Sunday,  9th.  —  Wrote  letter  to  Storrow  and  Van 
Wart  to  go  by  post  and  others  to  Mrs.  Storrow,  etc., 
to  go  by  Pierre  —  in  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  with 
Pierre  and  Peter. 

Monday,  10th.  —  Rec[eive]d  letters  from  Van 
W[art]  and  Sally  —  disagreeable  news  of  E.  I.  — 
letter  from  Mr.  Storrow  —  sent  letters  by  mail  to 
V.  Wart  and  Storrow  —  visited  Armory  with  Pierre 
and  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  Rich's. 

July  llth.  — Tuesday.  Wrote  at  "Columb[us] "  — 
ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  with  Pierre  —  walked  on 
Prado  in  ev[enin]g. 

July  12th.  —  Wrote  at  "  Columb[us] "  -  got  a  bill 
of  eight  pounds  on  Bayonne  from  Mr.  Wiseman  for 
Pierre  —  Pierre  sets  off  for  France  —  ev[enin]g  at 
the  theatre  with  Peter  and  Mr.  Montgomery  — 
play  was  "El  Perro  del  Hortelano"  of  Lope  well 
played  by  Baux  and  Cabas,  indifferently  by  the 
rest. 

Thursday,  13th.  —  Wrote  at  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  at  their  new  house. 

Friday,  14th.  —  Wrote  all  day  at  "  Columb[us] " 
ev[enin]g  walk  on  Prado  with  family  —  beautiful 
moonlight  —  tell  stories  in  the  hall. 

Saturday,  15th.  —  Wrote  all  day  at  "Columbfus]" 

32 


—  ev[enin]g  at  Russian   Minister's  —  then   to  the 
French  Ambassador's  —  Met  there  several  of  the 
diplomatic  circle  —  Marquis  de  Moustier1  shews  me 
letters  of  Washington,  Franklin,  Napoleon,  Jefferson, 
etc.  — return  home  at  twelve  o'clock. 

Sunday,  16th.  —  Write  at  "Columb[us]"    -evje- 
nin]g  go  with  the  Riches  to  Mr.  Everett's  —  Mr.  - 
there  —  a  French  general  who  is  travelling  to  ascer 
tain  the  route  of  Hannibal. 

Monday,  17th.  —  "  Columb[us] " — in  ev[enin]g  bull 
fight  with  Peter  —  walk  on  Prado  by  moonlight  - 
tell  story  of  three  sisters  and  sit  by  fountain. 

Tuesday,  18th.  —  "Columbfus]"  -ev[enin]g  at 
Opera  in  Marq.  des  Moustier's  box  —  opera  "  Eliza 
and  Claudio"  -  Sig[no]r  Cortesi  played  excellently 

—  (harassed  this  day  by  nervousness). 
Wednesday,  19th.  —  "Columb[us] "    -  ev[enin]g  at 

Mr.  Everett's. 

Thursday,  20ih.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  Peter  gets  let 
ter  from  Beasley  —  write  and  send  letter  to  Price  — 
ev[enin]g  walk  on  Prado  by  moonlight  —  receive 
letter  from  Mr.  Rich. 

Friday,  21st.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[ening]  at  Mr. 
Everett's  —  Mr.  -  -  there. 

Saturday,  22d.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  eve[nin]g  walk 
in  Retiro  and  Prado  with  Montg[omer]y. 

July  23d.  —  Sunday.  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Count  -  -  and  Mr.  Royat  there 

—  Count  told  of  Lattin  of  Madrid. 

Monday,  24th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  aft[e]r[noon]  — 
toros  with  Mr.  Wiseman  and  Mr.  -  — .  Scene  with 
Miguel,  the  picador,  formerly  liberal  —  ev[enin]g 

1  Irving  was  evidently  no  respecter  of  persons.  He  varies  the 
names  of  his  aristocratic  friends  with  as  much  freedom  as  he  dis 
plays  towards  the  most  plebeian. 

33 


tertulia1    round   the  fountain  —  Marchioness,   Mr. 
McDermott,  etc. 

Tuesday,  25th.  —  In  morn'g  visited  garden  near 
convent  of  Delicias  —  ate  fine  figs  —  attended  serv 
ice  hi  chapel  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre 
la  Cruz  —  play  of  "  Entroductio  "  by  Sameli  and 
Mai  de  Mar  —  both  good. 

Wednesday,  26th.  —  Wrote  at  "  Columb[us] "  -  in 
ev[enin]g  gave  first  book  to  P.  I.  to  look  over  — 
evjeninjg  went  with  Smith  and  P.  I.  to  cafe  —  took 
ice  —  afterwards  to  Mr.  Ryan's  —  bro[ugh]t  ladies 
home  from  opera. 

Thursday,  27th.  —  Disturbed  at  night  by  noises  - 
could  not  work  to-day  —  wrote  to  Pierre  —  visited 
the  Everetts  in  ev[enin]g  —  weather  very  hot. 

July  28th.  —  Friday.     "  Columb[us] "    -  ev[enin]g 

walk  on  Prado  —  met  Mr.  Dalbrtick  —  afterwards 

go  to  Russfian]  Minister's  —  Mad.  d'Oubril  at  home 

-have  long  talk  with  her  —  ret[urne]d  home  —  find 

tertulia  —  Marchioness,  etc. 

Saturday,  29th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  even[in]g  at 
Mr.  Ryan's  and  Mr.  O'Shea's. 

Sunday,  30th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -ev[enin]g  at 
home  —  the  Everetts  —  Ryans,  etc. 

Monday,  31st.  —  "Columb[us]"  -  ev[enin]g  went 
to  the  opera  —  sat  in  French  Ambassador's  box  - 
"Eduardo  and  Christino"  -Cortisi  played  charm- 
ingly  —  Casi  sang  very  well  —  at  end  of  first  act 
the  Princess  of  Cassarolles  and  her  family  (Neapol 
itan  Ambassador's  lady)  came  in  —  I  retired  and 
passed  remainder  of  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  took 

1  Irving  himself  explains  the  tertulia  in  a  letter  written  from 
Madrid  in  1846  when  he  was  American  Minister  to  Spain.  "In  the 
summer  evenings  there  are  groups  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  seated 
in  chairs,  and  holding  their  tertulias,  or  gossiping  parties,  until  a 
late  hour." 

34 


leave  of  Mr.  Robert  Montgomery,  who  goes  to 
morrow  morn'g  to  Alicant  —  rec[eive]d  letter  to-day 
from  Newton. 

August  1st.  —  Tuesday.  "Columb[us]''  -ev[e- 
ning]  at  Mr.  Everett's  alone  —  walk  in  garden  with 
Mrs.  E.  —  report  of  Granada  being  ruined  by 
earthquake. 

Wednesday,  2d.  —  "Columb[us]"  -  ev[enin]g  call 
and  leave  card  at  French  Arnbass[ador]'s  —  call  at 
Russian  Minister's  —  meet  family  just  going  out  - 
accompany  them  on  drive  in  caleche  to  Convent 
d'Atoch  —  afterwards  to  Mr.  Bedel's  where  I  met 
Marchioness  Desmoustier  —  Consul  Beauresaire, 
Prussian  Minister,  Gen[era]l  -  -  returned  home 
at  twelve  o'clock. 

Thursday,  3d.  —  "Columb[us]"  -ev[enin]g  at 
opera  with  Peter  —  "Zalmira"  -  Cortesi  played 
admirably  —  rec[eive]d  letter  to-day  from  Pierre. 

Friday,  4-th.  —  "Columb[us]"  -could  not  work 
well  —  walk  in  Retiro  with  Montg[omer]y — ev[enin]g 
at  Everett's. 

Saturday,  5th.  —  "Columb[us]"  -  ev[enin]g  walk 
in  Retiro  —  pass  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  pass  uncom 
fortable  night. 

Sunday,  6th.  —  "Columb[us]"  -could  not  take 
siesta  —  ev[enin]g  at  Everett's  —  Mr.  Navarette 
there  and  Count  -  -  and  the  Ryans  —  uneasy 
night. 

Monday,  7th.  —  Walk  at  six  o'clock  with  Peter  to 
Convent  of  Atocha  —  drowsy  throughout  the  day 
-  do    nothing  —  ev[ening]    walk    on    Prado    with 
ladies  —  pay  Mr.  Everett. 

Tuesday,  8th.  —  At  five  o'clock  walk  with  Peter 
to  the  Canal  —  write  at  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g 
at  home  —  Marchioness. 

35 


Wednesday,  9th.  —  Awake  early  —  get  up  at  half- 
past  four  —  walk  with  Peter  to  bank  of  river  —  fine 
morning  —  return  to  breakfast  —  this  morning  talk 
about  work  on  " Conquest  of  Granada "  -write  at 
"Columb[us]''  -eve[nin]g  walk  with  ladies  of  the 
family  and  the  Ryans  to  garden  of  the  Delicias  - 
afterwards  to  Prado  —  ret[urne]d  home  and  sit 
round  fountain  where  I  tell  story  of  West  Portico.1 

Thursday,  10th.  —  Walk  at  five  o'clock  out  of  gate 
of  Atocha  and  along  the  outside  of  walls  of  Madrid 
until  we  enter  gate  of  -  — .  Talk  of  work  on  "  Con 
quest  of  Granada "  -write  a  little  at  Columb[us] 
-ev[enin]g  at  opera  —  "Barber  of  Seville"  -Fi 
garo  played  spiritedly  by .  Casi  played  Rosina. 

August  llth.  —  Friday.  Rise  at  five  and  walked 
with  Peter  out  of  gate  of  St.  Barbara  and  round  the 
northern  part  of  Madrid  —  wrote  a  page  or  two  at 
"  Columb[us] "  —  went  with  Smith  and  Peter  to  place 
of  La  Celada  to  see  execution  of  a  man  for  robbing 
and  murder  —  hanged  —  took  place  at  about  one. 
Ev[enin]g  at  opera  with  the  Everetts  —  Peter  and 
Smith  in  French  Ambassador's  box  —  the  opera  — 
"Barber  of  Seville." 

Saturday,  12th.  —  Rise  early  —  walk  in  Retiro  — 
"  Columb[us] "  -  ev[enin]g  walk  on  Prado  —  moon 
light  —  King  returns  at  six  o'clock. 

Sunday,  13th.  —  Rise  before  five  —  walk  to  Con 
vent  of  Atocha  and  outside  of  walls  to  gate  of 
Atocha — "  Columb[us] " — ev[enin]g  at  the  Everetts'. 

Monday,  14th.  —  Walk  in  morn'g  to  river  — 
Columb[us]  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  and  on  Prado. 

Tuesday,  15th.  —  Walk  in  morn'g  to  gate  of 
Atocha  —  "Columb[us]"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  with  the  M[ar]ch[iones]s. 

1  Not  identified. 
36 


August  16th.  —  Wednesday.  Walk  in  morning  at 
five  o '  clo  ck  with  Peter  —  ' '  Columb  [us] ' '  -  e v  [enin]  g 
at  opera  —  "Barb[er]  de  Seville"  -write  to  Mr. 
Storrow  and  Pierre  by  courier. 

Thursday ',    17th.  —  Walk    in    morn'g    at    five- 
"  Columb  [us]"    -ev[enin]g  at  Russian  Minister's  - 
then  at  French  Ambassador's  —  seated  in  garden  by 
moonlight  —  return  home  at  quarter-past  twelve  - 
write  to  Van  Wart  by  post. 

Friday,  18th.  —  Walk  to  Convent  of  Atocha  - 
received  letter  from  Storrow  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs. 
Everett's. 

Saturday,  1 9th.  —  ' '  Columb  [us] ' '  -  ev[enin]g  walk 
on  Prado. 

Sunday,  20th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  ev[enin]g  at 
home. 

Monday,  21st.  —  Drew  on  Mr.  Wiseman  for  $100 

—  "Columb[us]" —  ev[enin]g  at  opera  —  "Zalmira" 

—  letter  from  Hughes  to  Peter. 

August  22d.  —  Tuesday.  Leave  Madrid  at  six 
in  morning  for  St.  Ildefonso  —  in  carriage  with  Mr., 
Mrs.  and  Miss  Everett,  Peter  and  Smith  —  stop  at 
half-past  eleven  at  Inn  in  the  Guadarrama  Moun 
tains  —  lunch  —  hear  there  of  three  Engl[ish]  Min 
ister's  servants  having  been  robbed  —  beautiful  ride 
thro'  the  mountains  —  thunder  shower  —  pretty 
cottages  and  churches  in  mountain  valley — pickets  of 
soldiers — as  we  descend  opposite  side  wide  view  over 
Castile  between  opening  of  mountains  —  pickets 
of  soldiers  with  black  horses  —  mules  —  arrive 
at  La  Granja  at  dusk  —  put  up  at  Fleur  de  Lis. 

Wednesday,  23d.  —  Walked  out  with  Peter  before 
breakfast  —  soldiers  and  music  in  place  before  pal 
ace  —  after  breakfast  walk  with  the  Everetts  on 
through  the  gardens  —  the  King  sends  to  invite  us 

37 


to  the  Queen's  apartments  to  go  thro'  the  garden  — 
go  there  at  five  —  accompany  the  Royal  family,  etc. 
thro'  the  gardens,  where  the  waters  play  —  Marquis 
de  -  -  walks  with  me  —  Prince  of  Hesse  walks  with 
Royal  family  —  one  fountain  throws  the  highest  jet 
in  Europe. 

Thursday,  24th.  —  After  breakfast  drive  to 
Segovia  —  about  two  leagues  distant  —  Cathedral 
beautiful  —  simple  —  solid  Gothic  —  painted  win 
dows  —  Everett's  misunderstanding  with  priest 
about  the  ladies  having  their  heads  uncovered- 
visit  the  Alcazar1  —  General  who  commands  there 
shews  us  thro'  the  place  —  a  military  college - 
Commandant  a  son  of  an  Irishman  —  beautiful 
room  of  the  throne --Tower  where  Gil  Bias  was 
confined  —  returned  to  La  Granja  by  four  o'clock. 

August  25th.  —  Friday.    Morning  walk  in  garden 

-  "  Columb[us] "   -  walk  at  midday  with  Mrs.  Ever 
ett,  Miss  E.  and  Peter  —  after  dinner  see  the  waters 
play  —  the  court  and  all  the  populace  in  garden  - 
ev[enin]g  at  theatre  —  "Don  Comodo,  o  el  amigo 
intima"   -good. 

Saturday,  26th.  —  Start  at  half-past  five  —  drive 
thro'  the  mountains  —  get  among  clouds  —  fine- 
immerging  into  sunshine  —  arrive  at  Madrid  at  five 

-  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  Rich's  —  the  Ryans  there. 
Sunday,  27th.  —  "  Columb[us] "    all   day  — ev[e- 

nin]g  at  Mrs.  Everett's. 

Monday,  28th.  —  "Columb[us] "  —  "Granada"  - 
ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Tuesday,  29th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Ryan's. 

1  The  Alcazar  at  Segovia  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  Moorish 
palaces  in  Spain,  and  contains  many  art  treasures,  statues,  and 
historical  relics. 

38 


Wednesday,  30th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Everett's. 

Thursday,  31st.  — Write  a  little  at  "Columb[us]" 

-  one  page  at ' '  Granada. ' '    Wrote  letter  to  Storrow, 
enclosed  exch[an]g[e]  at  sixty  days,  sight  on  E.  I. 
for  $1,000  —  in  ev[enin]g  went  to  Mr.  d'Oubril's  - 
Count  Meyerdorff  and  Count  -     -  there. 

September  1st.  —  Friday.  Morning  walk  —  "  Gra 
nada7'  —  ev[enin]g  with  the  Montgomeries  at  Mr. 
Everett's. 

Saturday,    2d.  —  Weather    cool  —  "  Granada  " 
Mr.  Hunter,  King's  messenger  arrives  with  letter 
from  Mr.  Andrews  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Sunday,  3d.  —  " Granada"  -  dined  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  with  the  Rich  family. 

Monday,  4th.  —  "Granada"    -  letter  from  Pierre. 

Tuesday,  5th.  —  "  Granada." 

Wednesday,  6th.  —  "Granada." 

Thursday,  7th.  —  "Granada." 

Friday,  8th.  —  "Granada "  —  ev[enin]g  Theatre  del 
Principe  —  "Tellos  de  Moneses"  -"Casa  de  la 
Vicindad ' '  -  good. 

Saturday,  9th.  —  "  Granada  "  -  ev[enin]g  —  Mr. 
d'OubriPs. 

Sunday,  10th.  —  "Granada"    -ev[enin]g  theatre 

-  one  act  of  "  Amar  por  Senas." 

September  llth.  —  Monday.    Morn'g  "Granada" 

-  bull-fight  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's. 
Tuesday,  12th.  —  Wrote  a  little  at  "Granada,"  but 

very  little  —  retouching  —  copied  sketch  of  "Con 
tented  Man"1  and  sent  it  to  F.  Andrews  for  his 

1  This  story  by  Irving  has  to  do  with  an  old  Frenchman,  who, 
after  being  ruined  by  the  Revolution,  found  much  happiness  through 
out  his  years  of  poverty;  but  when,  later,  the  major  portion  of  his 
fortune  was  restored  to  him,  he  lost  both  his  philosophic  point  of 
view  and  his  gaiety. 

39 


Christmas  work  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's  and 
with  them  to  the  opera  —  "Eliza  and  Claudio." 

Wednesday,  13th.  — Sketched  and  scratched  at 
"  Granada  "  -  walked  in  Retiro  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Ryan's. 

Thursday,  14th.  —  "  Granada  " —  rec[eive]d  letter 
from  Pierre  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  thence  to 
Theatre  —  piece  of  "Diablos  son  las  mujeres." 

Friday,  15ih.  —  "  Granada  "  —  e[venin]g  at  Mr. 
Everett's. 

Saturday,  16th.  —  "  Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at . 

Sunday,  17th.  —  " Granada"  —  evjeninjg  at  Mr 
d'Oubril's. 

Monday,  18th.  — " Granada"  in  the  morn'g-— 
ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  letters  from  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Storrow  and  Van  Wart. 

Tuesday,  19th.  — -  "  Granada  "  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Wednesday,  20th.  —  "Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  the 
atre  -  "El  Socorro  de  los  Mantos"  —  good. 

Thursday,  21st.  —  "Granada"  —  five  o'clock  mor 
n'g  —  at  twelve  walk  out  up  the  fan*  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Ryan's. 

Friday,  22d.  —  Write  but  little  —  walk  with  Smith 
and  Montg[omer]y  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's. 

Saturday,  23d.  —  "Granada "  -  at  twelve  go  with 
the  ladies  to  Academy  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Sunday,  24th.  —  "Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  Theatre 
de  la  Cruz  —  play  —  "El  Cuesto  por  lo  bueno." 

Monday,  25th.  —  "Granada"  —  bulls  morn'g  and 
afternoon  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's. 

Tuesday,  26th.  —  "Granada "  —  walk  in  Retiro  - 
ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Colt. 

Wednesday,  27th.  —  A  little  at  "Granada"  —walk 
in  morn'g  in  Retiro  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  the 
Ryans. 

40 


September  28th.  —  Thursday.  ' '  Granada ' '  -  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  with  the  y[oun]g  ladies  — 
rec[eive]d  $100  from  Mr.  Wiseman. 

Friday,  29th.  —  " Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Thea 
tre  del  Principe  —  "Huerfana  de  Bonville"  and 
Labrador.1 

Saturday,  80th.  —  "Granada,"  a  little  —  ev[enin]g 
Opera  —  "Barb[er]  of  Seville." 

October  1st.  —  Sunday.  " Granada"  -dined  at 
Mr.  Everett's  with  Montgomery  and  Mr.  Ryan. 

Monday,  2d.  —  "  Granada  "  —  toros  —  ev[enin]g 
Mr.  d'OubriTs. 

Tuesday,  3d.  —  "Columbus"  and  "Granada." 

Wednesday,  4th.  —  "Columbus "    -  " Granada " 
ev[enin]g  Opera  —  "II  Porto  Abandonato." 

Thursday,  5th.  —  "  Granada  "  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Friday  6th.  —  " Granada"  —  museum  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Saturday,  7th.  —  "Granada "  - ev[enin]g  looked  in 
at  theatre  —  called  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  rest  of  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  home  —  Ryans  there. 

Sunday,  ^.  —  "Granada"  -dine  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  —  French  gent[leman]  there  from  N.  Orleans. 

Monday,  9th.  —  "  Granada"  —  toros  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Theatre  —  "Barb[er]  of  Seville." 

Tuesday,  10th.  —  "Granada"  -ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
d'Oubril's  —  French  Ambassador,  etc.,  there. 

Wednesday,  llth.  —  "Granada"  -ev[enin]g  at 
home. 

Thursday,  12th.  —  At  9  o'clock  set  off  with  the 
Everetts,  Smith  and  Peter  for  Escurial2  —  take 

1  "The  Orphan  Girl  of  Bonville"  may  be  the  title  of  the  first 
of  these  plays;  the  second  may  have  overtaxed  our  powers  of  de 
ciphering. 

2  Escurial  (or  Escorial),  a  famous  monastery  of  New  Castile,  in 
the  province  of  Madrid.   The  Escurial,  which  was  intended  to  serve 

41 


lunch  at  a  village  ravaged  by  the  French  -—  eat  our 
lunch  on  stones  among  ruins  —  approaching  the 
Escurial  see  Princess  of  Basque  and  courtiers  on 
donkeys  —  in  ev[enin]g  go  with  Mr.  Everett  to  visit 
the  nuncio  —  dark  passages  of  the  Escurial  —  find 
him  in  small  room  — recess  for  bed  with  crimson 
curtain  —  large  books  on  table  —  crimson  velvet 
bindings  —  he  is  in  Schlafrock.1 

October  13th.  —  Friday.  Visit  the  Escurial  —  the 
Sacristan  Frere  Solono  —  shews  us  about  —  a  jolly 
friar.  In  the  Sacristy  is  the  Pearl  by  Raphael2  and 
the  presentation  —  beautiful.  In  the  old  chapel  is 
a  piece  by  Raphael  —  visit  the  Pantheon. 

Library  —  old  monk  with  white  hair. 

After  Escurial  visit  the  Principe,  a  pretty  little 
house  and  garden  —  after  dinner  revisit  Escurial 
with  Prince  Dolgorucki  and  Mr.  Sandt  —  ev[enin]g 
at  theatre. 

Saturday,  14th.  —  Besa  Manos  —  at  the  Escurial 

-attend  court  —  King,  Queen,  Don  Carlos  and 
Don  Francisco  and  their  wives    and    Duchess   of 
Beyna  — after  court  walk  with  Mrs.  Everett  and 
Miss  E.,  Peter,  and  Smith  to  King  Philip's  seat  - 
beautiful  view. 

Sunday,  15th.  —  Return  to  Madrid  — leave  the 
Escurial  at  quarter-past  seven  and  arrive  about  two 
o'clock  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs.  Ryan's  with  the  Riches 
Mad.  Zannoturi  there,  etc. 

Monday,  16th.  —  "  Granada  "  — ev[enin]g  tertulia 

as  a  palace,  mausoleum,  and  monastery,  is  an  immense  building  of 
solid  granite,  and  owes  its  origin  to  Philip  II,  who  erected  it  in  grati 
tude  to  his  patron  saint  through  whose  aid  he  won  the  famous  battle 
of  St.  Quentin. 

1  Dressing  gown. 

2  One  of  the  most  celebrated  of  Raphael's  paintings  represent 
ing  the  Holy  Family. 

42 


at    home  —  Everetts,     Ryans,     O' Shays  —  receive 
letter  from  Van  W.  and  three  from  Sally.1 

Tuesday,  17th.  —  "  Granada  "  -ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
d'Oubril's  —  Mr.  Waddington,  etc.,  there. 

Wednesday,  18th.  —  " Granada" — ev[enin]g  at 
home  —  Mrs.  O'Shea  and  nephew  here  —  write  till 
eleven. 

October  19th.  —  Thursday.  "Granada "  —  dine  at 
Mr.  Everett's  —  gent[leman]  from  New  Orleans 
there  and  Mr.  Ryan. 

Friday,  20th.  —  "Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mrs. 
O'Shea's  —  write  to  Van  W.  by  Mr.  Orviette. 

Saturday,  21st.  —  "Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Everett's  —  met  the  Riches. 

Sunday,  22d.  —  "Granada"  —  after  dinner  sleep 
—  walk  in  Retiro  —  full  of  people  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Theat[re]  del  Principe  —  "La   Presumida"   y   "la 
Hermosa ' '    -  very  good. 

Monday,  23d.  —  Cannot  write  —  go  out  at  nine 
to  Retiro  to  see  the  reserves  pass  accompan[ie]d  by 
Mr.  Weeks,  Mr.  Ryan  and  Mr.  Shaw  of  Cadiz  - 
Peter,  Smith  and  myself  unprovided  with  tickets  - 
do  not  go  in  —  afternoon  toros  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Everett's. 

Tuesday,  24th.  —  No  work  —  get  $100  from  Mr. 
Wiseman  --says  there  are  about  seventy-five  yet 
in  his  hands  —  called  on  Mr.  Shaw,  Weeks  and  Ryan 

-  dined  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  Mr.  Vaughan  and  nephew 
there  —  ev[enin]g  went  to  theatre  and  saw  "Didon" 

-  bad  —  after  piece  good. 

Wednesday,  25th.  —  Mr.  Rich  arrived  last  night 
—  wrote  letters  to  E.  I.,  Storrow,  Mr.  Macready- 
rec[eive]d  letters  from  Newton,  Pierre  M.  Irving, 
Susan  Storrow  and  Minny  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

1  living's  sister,  Sarah  Van  Wart. 

43 


Thursday,  26th.  —  Idle  day  —  evfening]  at  home. 

Friday,  27th.  —  A  little  at  "Granada"  —  even[in]g 
at  Mr.  d'Oubril's. 

Saturday,  28th.  —  Wrote  a  little  at  " Granada"  — 
ev[enin]g  call  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  no  at  home  — 
pass  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Sunday,  29th.  —  " Granada"  a  little  —  dine  at 
Mr.  Wiseman's  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Monday,  30th.  —  " Granada"  —  toros  —  ev[enin]g 
at  home. 

Tuesday,  31st.  —  " Granada"  -ev[enin]gat  Mr. 
Everett's. 

November  1st.  —  Wednesday.  '  'Granada ' '  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  home  —  late  in  ev[enin]g  wrote  on  "Colum- 
b[us]." 

Thursday,  2d.  —  Went  in  Galera1  with  the  Riches 

-  Ryans  —  Smith  —  Montg[omer]y  to   the   Prado 

-  went  thro'  the  palace  —  beautiful  tapestry  made 
at     Madrid  —  represent  [in]  g     costumes    of    Spain, 
etc. 

November  3d.  —  Friday.  "  Granada  "  -  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Ryan's. 

Saturday,  4th.  —  " Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Rus 
sian  Minister's  —  the  Pope's  nuncio  and  the  Bishop 
-there  —  afterwards   the    Minister   of  Prussia, 
Mr.  Stanhope,  etc. 

Sunday,   5th.  —  "  Granada,"  a   little  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Everett's — send  letters  to  Mr.  Storrow- 
E.  Irving,  etc.,  by  English  courier  to  Paris. 

Monday,  6th.  —  " Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Ryan's  —  Signora  Corri,  etc. 

Tuesday,  7th.  —  "Granada"  -  Mr.  Slidell  arrives 
—  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Wednesday,    8th.  —  "Granada"  —  indisposed    to 

1  A  sort  of  coach. 
44 


work  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Smith  and  Montgfom- 
er]y  here. 

Thursday, 9th.  —  "Granada" — ev[enin]g  at  theatre 
-  "  Valerio  "   -  poorly  played. 

Friday,  10th.  —  "Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  home 
-Mr.  Slidell,  etc. 

Saturday,  llth.  —  "Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mar 
quis  of  -  — ,  the  Riches,  Ryans,  Mr.  Slidell,  Smith, 
etc.,  etc.,  Mr.  Navarette  and  family  there. 

Sunday,  12th.  --Wrote  a  little  at  "Granada"  - 
dined  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  Signor  -    -  and  Mr.  - 
there  —  ev[enin]g  looked  in  at  theatre  —  "  Melin- 
drosa"    -bizarre. 

Monday,  13th.  —  "Granada" — ev[enin]g  at  theatre 
-"Oscar"    -  miserable -- this    day    the    Misses 
Montgomeries,  etc.,  depart. 

Tuesday,  14th.  —  "  Granada  "  —  ev[enin]g  called  at 
Mrs.  Everett's  —  not  at  home  —  Mr.  d'Oubril's 
idem  —  visited  Mr.  Ryan's. 

Wednesday,  15th.  —  "Granada "  —  visit  new  house 
with  Mrs.  R.  and  Mrs.  Everett  —  ev[enin]g  the 
Ryans  here  —  afterwards  go  to  Mr.  d'Oubril's. 

Thursday,  16th.  — Left  the  house  in  Calle  St. 
Fernando  and  moved  to  -  -  near  the  gate  of  Santa 
Barbara  —  wrote  all  day  at  "  Granada  "  —  ev[enin]g 
called  at  Mr.  Ryan's. 

Friday,  17th.  —  "Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Everett's  —  not  at  home  —  ret[urne]d  and  wrote 
until  late  at  "Columb[us]." 

Saturday,  18th.  —  Mr.  Rich's  family  moved  into 
the  house  —  write  all  day  at  "Columb[us]"  —  Mr. 
Everett  calls  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  - 
"Marido  de  la  Duchesa  —  excellent. 

November  19th.  —  Sunday.  Indisposed  to  work 
—  awake  with  slight  headache  —  write  a  little  at 

45 


"Columb[us]"  — go  with  Peter  to  see  the  Novellos 

-  dine  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Mr.  Slidell,  Rich,  Smith, 
Peter,  etc. 

Monday,  20th.  —  "Columb[us]"  all  day  and  till 
one  at  night  —  Mr.  Smith  and  Montg[omer]y  at  Mr. 
Rich's  in  the  ev[enin]g. 

Tuesday,  21st.  —  Write  all  day  at  "Columb[us]" 

—  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  del  Principe  for  a  little  while 

—  came   away   soon  —  called   at   Ryan's  —  Mont- 
g[omer]y  there. 

Wednesday,  22d.  —  Write  all  day  at  "  Columb[us] " 
ev[enin]g  call  at  d'Oubril's  —  look  in  at  Theatre  del 
Principe  —  see  "Sainete  of  Don  Chico"--look  in 
at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  French  Ambassador's]  box 

-  Mr.    d'Oubril    there  —  Cenerentola  —  write    to 
Van  Wart  by  courier. 

Thursday,  23d.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  letter  from  Mr. 
Storrow  —  the  same  which  had  been  delay'd. 

Friday,  24th.  —  "Columb[us] "  all  day  —  ev[enin]g 
at  theatre  —  "Zalmira." 

Saturday,  25th.  —  All  day  "  Columb[us] "  -  ev[en- 
in]g  at  home  —  write  till  near  eleven. 

Sunday,  26th.  —  Before  breakfast  sketch  off  char 
acter  of  "Columb[us]." 

This  day  leave  cards  for  Marquis  —  call  on  Count 
Donoff  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  writing. 

Monday,  27th.  —  "Columb[us]"  all  day  —  write 
by  mail  to  Van  Wart  —  Mr.  Rich  wrote  for 
books— viz.:  " Translation]  of  Navarette,"  "Chif- 
f erton  " 1  "  Tales  of  Traveller, ' '  -  theatre  —  part  of 
Washington. 

Tuesday,  28th.  —  ' '  Columbus ' '  —  dine  at  Mr. 
Ryan's  with  Peter  —  ev[enin]g  opera  —  "  Barber  of 
Seville." 

1  This  seems  to  be  the  title  Irving  used. 
46 


Wednesday,  29th.  —  "  Granada"  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Rich's. 

Thursday,  80th.  — ' '  Granada ' '  —  headache  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's. 

December  1st.  —  Friday.  " Granada"  -  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Ryan's. 

Saturday,  2d.  —  "  Granada." 

Sunday,  3d. — "  Columb  [us] ' '  -  dine  at  Mr.  Ryan's 
-  Mr.  Vaughan  and  nephew. 

December  4th.  —  Monday.    "  Columb  [us] "  —  read 
"Kenilworth"   in  ev[enin]g  —  call  at  Everett's  - 
not  at  home  —  letter  from  Mr.  Guestier  to  Peter. 

December  5th.  —  Tuesday.  ' '  Columb  [us] ' '  -  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  home  —  "  Kenilworth  "  —  draw  bill  on  Spen 
cer  to  account  of  Van  Wart,  fifty  pounds  —  receive 
seventy  dollars  from  Wiseman. 

Wednesday,  6th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  ev[enin]g 
Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  "Desden  con  el  desden."1 

Thursday,  7th.  —  "Columb[us]." 

Friday,  8th.  —  "  Columbus." 

Saturday,  9th.  —  "  Columb  [us]"  —  dine  at  Mr. 
Everett's  —  Mr.  Slidell,  Rich,  Smith. 

Sunday,  10th.  —  "Columb[us]"  all  day  and  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  home. 

Monday,  llth.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  Cruz. 

Tuesday,  12th.  —  "  Columbfus] "  -  ev[enin]g  Thea 
tre  del  Principe  —  Lo  que  son  las  mujeres  —  "Con- 
vidando  de  Piedro"  —  ballet. 

Wednesday,       13th.  —  "  Columb  [us] "  —  opera  - 
"Barb[er]  of  Seville." 

Thursday,  14th.  —  "Columb[us]"  --ev[enin]g  call 
at  Mrs.  d'OubriPs  —  the  Ryan's. 

Friday,  1 5th. — ' '  Columb  [us] ' '  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

1  The  full  title  is  "El  desden  con  el  desden,"  i.  e.,  "Meet disdain 
with  disdain,"  by  Augustin  Moreto  y  Cabana. 

47 


Saturday,  1 6th.  —  ' '  Columb[us] ' '  -  ev[enin]g  at 
home. 

Sunday,  17th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  illustrations  — 
ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Monday,  18th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  ev[enin]g  Mr. 
Everett's. 

Tuesday,  19th.  —  Called  with  Rich  on  Don  An 
tonio  and  left  card  at  Mr.  Wiseman  —  "Navarette" 
—  not  at  home  —  work  at "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g 
at  home. 

Wednesday,  20th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  d'Oubril's —  present  the  Cardinal  (nuncio), 
Gen[era]l  -  — ,  Prince  Dolgorouki  —  French  Sec- 
[retarjy's. 

Thursday,  21st.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  had  stove  put 
Up  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  "Amar 
por  Senas." 

Friday,  22d.  —  Went  to  library  (shut)  left  card 
for  Slidell  —  called  at  Wiseman's  —  wrote  at  "Co- 
lumb[us]" —  Illustrat.  —  rec[eive]d  letter  from  E. 
Irving  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  reading  "Bracebridge 
Hall"  —  wrote  to  Murray  informing  him  of  "Col- 
umb[us]"  being  nearly  ready  for  the  press. 

Saturday,    23d.  —  "Columb[us]"    -but    little - 
get   $100    of    Mr.   Wiseman  —  call    at    Ryan's  — 
Smith's  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  of  Cruz  —  "Barber 
of  Seville." 

December  24th.  —  Sunday.    Wrote  a  very  little  at 
"Columb[us]"--  dined   at   Smith's   with   Peter  - 
ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  del  Principe  —  extravagant  and 
amusing  pieces. 

Monday,  25th.  —  Christmas  —  made  extracts  con 
cerning  "Prester  John"1  —  dined  at  Ryan's  —  pres- 

1  A  mythical  character  who  was  supposed  in  the  Middle  Ages  to 
rule  over  a  vast  region  in  Asia. 

48 


ent  Mr.  Vaughan  and  Sig[no]r  —   -  of  Valencia  - 
ev[enin]g  at   Mr.  Everett's  —  the    Riches,   Smith, 
Montg[omer]y  there. 

Tuesday,  26th.  —  Indisposed  all  day  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Theatre  of  the  Cruz  —  various  Christmas  pieces 
—  house  of . 

Wednesday,  27th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  ev[enin]g  at 
home. 

Thursday,  28th.  —  Wrote  to  Susan  S[torrow]  in 
capacitated  to  write  all  day  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Friday,  29th.— "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  at  home 

-  read'g. 

December  30th.— Saturday.  All  day  "Columb[us] " 

-  eve[nin]g  at  home  read'g. 

Sunday,  31st.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  "  Nevilles  "  — 
ev[enin]g  look  in  at  Smith's  —  Ryan's  —  return 
home  and  write  a  little  —  but  sleepy  and  go  to  bed 
and  so  ends  the  year  1826  which  has  been  a  year  of 
the  hardest  application  and  toil  of  the  pen  I  have 
ever  passed.  I  feel  more  satisfied  however  with  the 
manner  in  which  I  have  passed  it  than  I  have  been 
with  that  of  many  gayer  years,  and  close  this  year 
of  my  life  in  better  humour  with  myself  than  I  have 
often  done. 

January  1st.  1827.  —  Monday.  Rose  at  six 
o'clock  —  "Columb[us] "  -  called  at  the  Marchion 
ess  d' Yrugo  —  saw  her  and  Narcissa  —  dined  with 
Mr.  Wiseman  —  present  Mr.  -  — ,  Mr.  -  — ,  and 
Mr.  -  -ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  with  Rich, 
Montg[omer]y,  Smith,  Peter,  Mr.  Sandt  there. 

January  2d.  —  Tuesday.  "  Columb[us] "  —  [ev[e- 
nin]g  at  home  —  two  Eng[lish]  messengers  here. 

Wednesday,  3d.  —  Wrote    to    Mr.    Storrow   and 
Lady  Granard  —  gave  letters  to  Eng[lish]  courier  - 
Dr.  Clark  of  Philadelphia  and  Mr.  Wilson  of  Bal- 

49 


timore  arrived  here  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  read'g 
"  Carol  of  Licht."1 

Thursday,  4th.  —  Wrote  to  Mrs.  Van  Wart  — 
Pierre  M.  Irving  and  Mills  by  Eng[lish]  courier  — 
ev[enin]g  at  home. 

January  5th.  —  Friday.  Called  on  Dr.  Clark,  etc. 
—  receive  letters  by  Eng[lish]  courier  who  left  this 
ev[enin]g  —  Dr.  Clark,  Mr.  Wilson,  and  Mr.  Slidell 
took  tea  with  us  at  Mr.  Rich's. 

Saturday,  6th.  —  Incapable  of  writing  —  called  at 
Wiseman's  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  reading  Lope  de 
Vega. 

Sunday,  7th.  —  Write  "  Island  of  St.  Borinson  " 2  — 
ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's. 

Monday,  8th.  —  Write  a  little  at  "  Island  of  St. 
Borinson"  -call  with  the  young  ladies  at  Mrs. 
Ryan's  —  get  $100  of  Mr.  Wiseman  —  ev[enin]g  at 
opera  —  "Eliza  and  Claudio"  -saw  a  Mr.  Frazer 
in  the  box  of  Mr.  d'Oubril  —  parents  in  Lisbon.  He 
is  a  Russian  prince  —  Consul  to  Lisbon. 

Tuesday,  9th.  —  Could  not  work  —  touched  a 
little  at  the"  .  .  .  "3  —  ev[enin]g  opera  of  "Rosa 
Rosa  and  Rosa  Blanca"  —  afterwards  went  to  the 
d'Oubrils'  —  Prince  Dolgorouki  lent  me  books  — 
called  at  Everett's  this  morn'g. 

January  10th.  —  Wednesday.  Out  of  mood  to 
work  —  walked  out  —  Smith's  —  read  papers  — 
ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Mrs.  O'Shea  —  the  -  — . 

1  This  is  the  best  transcription  we  can  make,  but  the  entry  is 
unintelligible  to  us. 

2  This  seems  to  be  the  correct  reading  of  the  text.     The  legend 
is  doubtless  that  of  the  Island  of  St.  Brandan  or  St.  Borondon,  a 
subject  treated  by  Irving  in  "The  Phantom  Island,"  and  the  piece 
that  follows  it  in  the  volume  entitled,  "Wolfert's  Roost."     These 
papers  had  appeared  in  the  Knickerbocker  Magazine  over  the  signa 
ture  of  "Geoffrey  Crayon." 

3  The  text  is  difficult  to  decipher.    Doubtless  the  reference  is  to 
the  "Island  of  St.  Borinson"  mentioned  twice  before. 

50 


Thursday,  llth.  —  Ev[enin]g  with  Peter  and  Smith 

—  "Convidado  de  Piedra." 

Friday,  12th.  —  At  library  —  tak'g  notes  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  at  home. 

Saturday,  13th.  —  Library  —  notes  from  "Ram- 
usio"  -ev[enin]g  call  Mr.  Ryan's  —  go  to  theatre 

—  "Marcia  de  la  Puchera." 

Sunday  14th.  —  Read  "Humboldt  Americ.  Tran- 
sac."  -  dined  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  Peter,  Smith,  Mr. 
Vaughan,  Annie  Rich  —  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  "En 
los  negocios." 

Monday,  1 5th.  —  Library  —  ' '  Ramusio ' '  -  walk 
with  Slidell  —  dine  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Mr.  Nava- 
rette,  Mr.  Rich,  Smith,  Montgo[mery]. 

January  16th.  —  Tuesday.  Library  —  make  notes 
from  "Ramusio"  -ev[enin]g  at  opera  —  "Cene- 
rentola"  -get  letter  from  Murray's  agreeing  to 
publish  "Columbus." 

January  17th.  —  Wednesday.  —  Morn'g  at  library 
making  notes  from  "Gosselin"  —  St.  Antonio's  Day 

—  people  with  horses,  etc.,  at  convent  of  St.  Antonio 
to  get  blessed  barley  —  blessed  cakes  of  St.  Antonio 

—  boys  running  about  with  horns  —  faces  smeared, 
etc.  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  "Eliza 
and  Claudio"   -see  Embozado  in  gallery  —  call  at 
Mr.  Wiseman's. 

Thursday,  18th.  —  Could  not  work  —  rec[eive]d 
letter  from  Pierre,  dated  Paris,  Jan[uar]y  6  —  replied 
by  this  ev[enin]g  mail  —  went  to  theatre  —  "La  Gal- 
lega" — afterwards  went  to  Mr.  d'Oubril's  —  re 
turned  home  late  —  imperfect  moonlight  —  obscure 
streets  —  this  morn'g  call  on  Sen  [or]  Navarette  —  go 
through  the  hydrographical  establishment. 

Friday,  19th.  —  Incapable  of  work  —  call  at 
Smith's  —  on  Count  Beauressaire  —  not  at  home  — 

51 


on  Mr.  Everett  —  Mr.  Sandt  there  —  pay  Mr.  E. 
twenty  dollars  —  ev[enin]g  opera  —  "Rosa  Rosa 
and  Rosa  Blanca"  -Peter  and  Smith  accom- 
pan[ie]d  me. 

Saturday,  20th.  —  Library  —  notes  from  "Gos- 
selin"  —  subscribed  to  French  library  —  make  notes 
from  "Malte  Brun" —  ev[enin]g  opera  —  "Barber 
of  Seville." 

January  21st.  —  Sunday.  Called  on  the  Count 
Cortoni  —  saw  his  coadjutor  there  —  called  at  Na 
varette's  —  not  at  home  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  with  Peter  —  terribly  nervous  and  low-spirited 
to-day. 

Monday,  22d.  —  This  day  wrote  at  "  Columb[us] " 
all  day  —  ev[enin]g  at  theatre  —  "Nona  Repentida" 
by  Solis  from  Donna  Baba  of  Lope. 

Tuesday,  23d.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  called  with  Mr. 
Rich  on  Mr.  Dedel  —  on  Slidell  —  ev[enin]g  at 
home  —  write  late  at  night. 

Wednesday,  24th.  —  " Columb[us] "  -early  in 
morn'g —  all  day  and  late  at  night  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Rich's. 

Thursday,  25th.  —  Write  from  two  o'clock  in 
morn'g  at  "  Columb[us] "  all  day  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Rich's  —  receive  letter  from  Mr.  Kenney  and  Mrs. 
Storey  —  write  a  little  before  going  to  bed  —  rise  a 
little  after  two,  write  till  daylight. 

Friday,  26th.  —  Write  all  morn'g  from  two  —  call 
at  Navarette's  —  not  at  home  —  at  Wiseman's - 
Ryan's  —  got  letter  from  the  Sec[retar]y  of  Athe- 
neum  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Saturday,  27th.  —  Rise  at  three  —  "Columb[us] " 
—  call  at  Mr.  Navarette's — get  Mss. — write  at  home 
-  ev[enin]g  at  Rich's  —  write  from  nine  to  one. 

Sunday,  28th.—  All  day  "Columbus"    -Mr.  Sli- 

52 


dell  calls  —  ev[enin]g  Mr.  Everett's  —  Peter,  Smith, 

—  from  half-past  ten  till  one  "Columb[us].'' 
Monday,  29th.  —  All  day  "Columb[us]''  —  ev[e- 

nin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  "  Colum[bus] "  till  near  twelve. 

Tuesday,    30th.  —  "Columb[usJ"  early  — call  at 

Navarette's  —  write  —  after  dinner  sleep  two  hours 

-  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  write  from  ten  to  one 

—  awake  at  three  —  write  till  breakfast. 
Wednesday,  31st.  —  Write  from  early  three  o'clock 

to  dinner  time  —  sleep  two  hours  —  write  from  six 
till  eight  —  pass  hour  and  half  at  Rich's  —  write  a 
little  but  go  to  bed  at  half-past  ten  —  wake  at  two 

—  write  till  breakfast  time. 

February  1st.  —  Thursday.  Write  from  two  in 
morn'g  till  past  eleven  —  call  at  Smith's  —  Ryan's 

—  letter  from  V[an]  W[art]  and  Mrs.  V.  —  ev[enin]g 
at  the  opera  —  "Tibaldo,"  etc. 

February  2d.  —  Friday.  Write  from  four  o'clock 
at  "  Supp[lemen]t "  —  at  home  all  day  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Rich's  —  Everett  there  and  Montg[omer]y —  letter 
from  Mills  —  write  in  ev[enin]g  till  twelve  o'clock. 

Saturday,  3d.  —  Rise  at  four  —  all  day  writing  - 
ev[enin]g  look  in  at  opera  —  "  Eliza  and  Claudio" 

—  call  at  Mr.  Ryan's. 

Sunday,  4th.  —  " Columb[us] "    -  "Story  of  - 

—  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  and 
Julia  Rich  and  Peter. 

Monday,  5th.  — "Story  of  -  —Mr.   Slidell 

calls  —  dine  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  letter  from  Sally. 

Tuesday,  6th.  —  Write  a  little  —  "  Ponce  de  Leon's 
discovery     of     Florida"    -call     at     Wiseman's - 
Smith's  —  ev[enin]g  at  Rich's  —  then  to  the  Rus 
sian  Minister's  to  a  ball  —  introduced  to   Count 
Bose,  the  Saxon  Minister. 

Wednesday,  7th.  —  A  blank  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

53 


Thursday,  8th.  —  With  great  exertion  rewrite  a 
chapter  —  call  at  Mr.  Wiseman  —  get  thirty  dollars 

—  call  with  him  on  the  Abbe*  who  promises  to  speak 
to  Duke  of  Veraguas1  to  get  me  the  examination  of 
Archives  —  call  at  Mrs.  Ryan's  —  ev[enin]g  Rich's 

—  Slidell  there. 

February  9th.  —  Friday.  An  idle  day  —  read 
newspapers  at  Mr.  Wiseman's  —  in  evening  read 
"Quentin  Durward"  at  Rich's. 

Saturday,  10th.  —  Write  a  little  at  "Columb[us]" 

-  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  read  "  Quentin  Durward." 
Sunday,  llth.  —  Could  not  write  without  great 

difficulty  —  walk    out    with    Peter  —  meet    Mrs. 
Rich,    Mr.    and   Mrs.    Ryan  —  walk   in   Re  tiro  - 
ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Rich,  Slidell,  Smith, 
Mont[gomer]y. 

Monday,  12th.  —  Read  in  Ms.  of  "Las  Casas"  - 
make  alterations  in  "  Columbfus] " —  letters    from 
Beasley,  Brevoort,  E.   Irving,   Mr.   Gary  of  Phil. 

—  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ryan, 
Mr.  Slidell  there. 

Tuesday,  13th.  —  All  day  rewriting  chapt[er]  on 
"  Columbfus] "  -  ev[enin]g  opera  —  "  Tibaldo,"  etc. 

-  bro[ugh]t  home  the  girls. 

February  14th.  —  Wednesday.  Write  all  day  at 
"Columbus "  -  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  read  "Quentin 
Durward"  -  letter  from  Lady  Granard. 

Thursday,  15th.  —  "Columb[us]"  -Mr.  Slidell 
calls  —  go  with  him  to  copier  and  leave  Ms.  to  be 
copied  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Montg[omer]y  there 

—  cards. 

Friday,      16th.  —  "  Columbfus] "  —  Mr.      Slidell 

1  In  the  preface  to  "Columbus"  Irving  acknowledged  the 
liberality  shown  him  by  this  descendant  and  representative  of  the 
great  discoverer. 

54 


called  and  Prince  Dolgorouki  —  gave  Slidell  more 
Ms.  —  ev[enin]g  at  Ryan's  —  chess  —  all  night 
broken  dreams  —  fearful  the  work  was  not  well 
enough  written. 

Saturday,  17th. — All  day  making  notes  from 
"Las  Casas"  —  ev[enin]g  Mr.  Slidell  called  —  cards 
at  Rich's. 

Sunday,  18th.  —  "Columb[us]"  all  day  — Slidell 
calls  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Montgomery] 
there  —  write  from  ten  to  half-past  twelve. 

Monday,  19th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  get  thirty  dol 
lars  from  Mr.  Wiseman  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

February  20th.  —  Tuesday.  "  Columbus  "  —  let 
ter  from  V.  Wart  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  rainy 
weather. 

Wednesday,  21st.  —  "Colum[bus] "  —  ev[ening]  call 
at  Slidell  —  opera  —  "Tibaldo  and  Isolina." 

Thursday,  22d.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  called  with  Sli 
dell  at  the  hydrographical  establish[ment]  —  saw 
Don  Antonio  and  Navarette  there  —  called  on  Mr. 
Anthony  Brydge  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  - 
Slidell,  Smith,  Peter.  Wrote  this  day  to  Van  Wart 
and  to  Pierre  Irving. 

Friday,    23d.  —  Work    but    very    little  —  Slidell 
calls  —  walk  out  with  him  in  Prado  —  ev[enin]g  at 
opera  —  "Tibaldo  and  Isolina"  —  Mrs.  Ryan's - 
Russian    Minister  —  ball  —  return    home    at    one 
o'clock. 

Saturday,  24th.  --Write  a  letter  to  E.  I. —  sent 
under  cover  to  Beadsley  —  wrote  a  little  at  "Co- 
lumb[us] "  -  -  headache  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  lar 
Cruz  —  afterwards  at  Mr.  Ryan's. 

February  25th.  —  Sunday.  A  little  at  "Colum- 
b[us] "  -  but  slowly  —  Mr.  Slidell  calls  —  call  with 
him  on  Mr.  d'Oubril  —  ev[enin]g  at  Everett's. 

55 


Monday,  26th.  —  All  day  "Columb[us] "  —  write  a 
letter  to  Storrow  by  post  —  ev[enin]g  at  O'Shea's  — 
opera  —  "Tibaldo  and  -  -and  Ryan's  bring 

the  girls  home  —  fine  weather. 

Tuesday,  27th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  at  four  o'clock 
go  with  Peter  to  Theatre  del  Principe  —  take  the 
two  boys  —  afterwards  at  Mrs.  Ryan's  —  then 
home. 

Wednesday,  28th.  -  -  "  Columb[us] ["  -  Slidell  and 
Mr.  Brydges  call  —  walk  out  with  Slidell  —  ev[enin]g 
at  home  —  Montg[omer]y  —  whist  —  fine  sunny 
weather  —  warm. 

March  1,  1 827.  —  Thursday.  "  Columb[us] "  — 
call  at  Slidell's  at  five  o'clock  —  ev[enin]g  at  Rich's 
-  Slidell,  Smith,  Montg[omer]y — give  vol[ume]  Mss. 
to  Ireland. 

Friday,  2d.  —  "  Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  Mrs. 
Ryan's  —  with  the  Riches,  Smith,  Slidell,  etc. 

Saturday,  3d.  —  Rose  at  five  —  " Columbus"  all 
day  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Ryans,  Smith,  Slidell, 
Montg[omer]y,  etc. 

Sunday,  4th.  —  All  day  " Columbus"  -ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Everett's  with  Peter  and  Mr.  Slidell. 

Monday,  5th.  —  ' '  Columbus ' '  -  letter  from  Pierre 
to  which  I  reply  —  call  at  Slidell's  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mrs.  Ryan's  —  chess. 

Tuesday,  6th.  —  Excessively  wearied  —  could  not 
write  —  called  on  Slidell  —  on  Mr.  Ruiz  —  slept  all 
the  afternoon  —  ev[enin]g  at  Marchioness  Casa 
Yrugo's. 

Wednesday,  7th.  —  Library  notes  —  Mr.  Long 
fellow  arrives1  —  letters  from  Storrow  —  ev[enin]g 

1  In  a  letter-journal,  written  to  his  father  in  March,  1827, 
Longfellow,  then  a  boy  of  nineteen,  writes  of  his  reception  in  Madrid 
as  follows:  "The  society  of  the  Americans  here  is  very  limited; 

56 


at  home  —  Mr.  Longfellow  and  Mr.  Slidell  —  get 
forty  dollars  from  Mr.  Wiseman. 

March  8th.  — Thursday.  "Columb[us]"  a  little 
—  call  on  Mr.  Longfellow  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

March  9th.  —  Friday.  ' '  Columb [us] ' '  -  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Mr.  Longfellow  —  write  to 
Pierre  by  Mr.  Brydges. 

Saturday,  10th.  —  Incapable  of  working  —  ex 
tremely  depressed  —  ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Sunday,  llth.  —  Work  with  great  difficulty  at 
"Columb [us] "  -ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  girls 
there. 

Monday,    12th.—  A    little    at   "  Columb  [us]  "- 
call    at    Mr.    Wiseman's  —  ev[enin]g    at    home- 
Mr.   and  Mrs.    Ryan  —  Mr.    Longfellow  —  Smith, 
Slidell. 

Monday,  13.  —  A  little  at  " Columbus"  —  walk 
in  Retiro  —  weather  warm  —  almond  trees  in  blos 
som —  get  forty  dollars  of  Mr.  Wiseman,  owe  him 
about  twenty  dollars  —  paid  tailor  for  pantaloons 
and  waistcoat  —  ev[enin]g  at  Marchioness  Casa 
Yrugo's  —  d'Oubrils  there,  etc.  —  came  home  half- 
past  eleven. 

Wednesday,  14th.  —  "Columb[us] "   -  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.     d'Oubril's  —  present     Prussian     Minister  - 
Count  Donoff  —  Mr.  Vielcartel,  etc. 

March  15th.  —  Thursday.  "  Columbus"  (not 
in  form)  —  letter  from  Pierre  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Ryan's  with  the  Riches. 

Mr.  Everett  and  family,  Mr.  Smith,  his  secretary,  Mr.  Rich,  the 
consul,  Washington  Irving  and  his  brother  Peter,  Lieutenant  Slidell 
of  the  navy,  and  myself  compose  the  whole.  .  .  .  Washington 
Irving,  who  resides  in  the  same  house,  always  makes  one  there  in 
the  evening.  This  is  altogether  delightful,  for  he  is  one  of  those 
men  who  put  you  at  ease  with  them  in  a  moment.  He  makes  no 
ceremony  whatever  with  one,  and,  of  course,  is  a  very  fine  man  in 
society,  all  mirth  and  good  humor." 

57 


Friday,  16th.  —  "Columb[us]"  -ev[enin]g  at 
home  —  Ryan's  —  Smith,  etc. 

Wednesday,  17th.  --  "  Columb[us] "  --  ev[enin]g 
Ryan's. 

Sunday,  18th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  --  Mr.  Slidell  ar 
rives  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Slidell,  Long 
fellow,  etc. 

Monday,  19th.  —  Went  with  Mr.  Everett  to 
Bezamanos  at  Prado  —  Peter  accompan[ie]d  us  and 
Smith  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Ryan's,  Longfellow, 
etc. 

Rec[eive]d  letter  this  day  from  Mr.  Storrow  ap 
prising  of  pay[men]t  of  bill  by  E.  I. 

Tuesday,  20th.  —  A  little  at "  Columb[us] "  —  draw 
bill  on  Storrow  —  thirty  days'  sight  1,500  francs, 
favor  of  Wiseman  —  receive  fifty  dollars  from  Wise 
man —  which  makes  about  seventy  dollars  against 
the  1,500  fr[ancs]  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  — 
Mr.  Vaughan  there  —  afterwards  at  Mad.  d'Oubril's 
—  Baron  Strick  there  —  return  home  half-past 
eleven. 

March  21st.  —  Wednesday.     Cannot  write  — 
ev[enin]g  at  home  —  whist  —  write  to  Mr.  Storrow 
and  to  Pierre  by  French  courier. 

Thursday,  22d.  —  Cannot  write  —  doze  a  great 
part  of  day  —  dine  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  Mr.  Slidell, 
Longfellow,  Smith,  Peter  there. 

Friday,  23d.  -  -  Visit  Museum  of  Nat[ural] 
Hist[ory]  copy  a  letter  of  "Columb[usJ "  -  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Ryan's. 

Saturday,  24th.  —  Besamanos  on  anniversary  of 
King's  return  from  France  —  go  to  Court  —  write 
a  little  at  "Columb[us]"  -ev[enin]g  at  home  — 
Smith,  Slidell,  Longfellow. 

Sunday,  25th.  —  Incapable  of  literary  occupation 

58 


-leave  Ms.  with  Ireland  —  walk  in  ev[enin]g  in 
Prado  with  Longfellow  and  Slidell  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Ryan's  —  the  Riches  there  —  ventriloquist. 

Monday,  26th.  —  "  Columb[us] "  -  write  consider 
able  —  ev[enin]g  call  at  Mr.  Everett's  —  not  at 
home  —  Smith's  —  pass  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's 

—  return  home  quarter  before  twelve. 

March  27th.  —  Tuesday.  "  Columbfus] "  ~  buy 
hat  seven  dollars  —  ev[enin]g  at  Marchioness  de 
Casa  Yrugo's  —  take  Mr.  Slidell  and  Mr.  Longfellow 
there  —  return  home  at  twelve. 

March     28th.  —  Wednesday.       "  Columb[us] "  - 
ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Slidell,  ^ongfellow,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Cansage,  Mrs.  O'Shea  and  nephew. 

March  29th.  —  Thursday.  "  Columb[us] "  —  call  at 
Smith's  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's  —  lend  vol- 
[ume]  of  "Bleda." 

Friday,  30th.  —  "  Columbus  "  —  get  forty  dollars 
of  Mr.  Wiseman  —  ev[enin]g  at  Rich's. 

Saturday,  31st.  —  "Columb[us]"  -ev[enin]g  call 
at  Slidell's  then  to  Mr.  Ryan's  —  chess. 

April  1st.  —  Sunday.    Walk  out  early  to  Smith's 

—  "Columb[us] "  all  day  —  dine  at  Mr.  Everett's  - 
Mr.   Rich,   Smith  and  Longfellow  —  return  home 
before  ten  and  write  till  one. 

Monday,  2d.  —  "  Columb[us] "    -  ev[enin]g  walk  in 
Retiro   with   Smith,   Longfellow,   Montgomery]  - 
ev[enin]g  at  Rich's  —  pay  Ireland  for  copy[in]g  six 
dollars. 

Tuesday,  3d.  —  April  —  birthday  —  "  Columbfus] " 
ev[enin]g  call  at  Smith's  —  Father  Goff  and  Pil 
grims  there  —  pass  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's  - 
the  Prussian  Consul  there  and  Mr.  Waddington  - 
stay  till  twelve. 

Wednesday,  4th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  work  slowly 

59 


-  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Rich's  —  the  Ryans  there  and 
Smith. 

Thursday,  5th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  write  to  Mur 
ray  —  ev[enin]g  at  Ryan's  —  the  Riches,  Smith, 
Peter. 

Friday,  6th.  —  "Columb[us]" — ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
d'Oubril's. 

Saturday,  7th.  —  "Columb[us]"  — walk  in  Retire 

-  meet  Mr.  Longfellow  and  the  officer  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Mr.  Rich's  —  Longfellow  and  Smith  there. 

Sunday,  8th.  —  "  Columb[us] "   -  Slidell  returns  — 
walk  in  ev[enin]g  to  Prado  with  Slidell  —  afterward 
at  Everett  —  §lidell,   Longfellow,   Smith,   Peter  - 
Count  Bosse  calls. 

Monday,  9th.  —  "Columbfus]"  all  day  — Art  - 
Indian    customs  —  receive    letter    from    Pierre  — 
H.  V.  W.  —  Peter  receives  letter  from  Beasley  — 
ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Slidell  and  Longfellow. 

April  10th.  -  -  Tuesday.    "  Columb[us] "  a  little  - 
nervous  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Ryan's  —  Mr.  d'Oubril's. 

Wednesday,  llth.  —  " Columb[us] "  --  see  Slidell  off 

-  call    at    Wiseman's  —  Everett's  —  ev[enin]g    at 
home  —  Mrs.  O'Shea,  Peter,  Montg[omer]y,  etc. 

Thursday,  12th.  —  Morn'g  went  to  palace  to 
see  the  ceremony  of  King  giving  food  to  thirteen 
poor  persons  —  no  one  in  but  Baron  Strick  — 
Mr.  Slidell  and  myself  —  afternoon  procession  of 
King  and  Queen,  etc.  —  ev[enin]g  visited  various 
churches. 

Friday,  13th.  —  Good  Friday  —  write  at  "Co- 
lumb[us]"  -called  at  Mr.  Wiseman's  —  Mr.  d'Ou 
bril's,  Smith's  —  after  dinner  called  at  Mrs.  O'Shea's 
to  see  procession  —  weather  rainy  —  no  procession 

-  went  to  Royal  chapel  with  John  O'Shea  —  heard 
" Miserere"   -met  Mr.  Dedel,  Baron  Lieberman, 

60 


Mr.  Strick,  Count  Donoff ,  Gen'l  -  — .    Called  after 
wards  at  Ryan's. 

$40  to-day  from  Mr.  Wiseman 
40 
70 

150 

April  1 4th.  —  Saturday.   Read  at f '  Columb [us] ' ' 
called  at  Mr.  Wiseman's  and  read  papers  —  called 
at  Mr.  d'Oubril's  —  visited  Mr.  Waddington  —  left 
card  for  Bosanquet  —  called  and  paid  Mr.  Joaquin 
Mendezabl  twenty  dollars  for  copying  —  after  dinner 
walked  in  Prado  with  Mr.  Longfellow  —  beautiful 
fresh  ev[enin]g  after  rain  —  met  Smith  and  Peter  - 
took  ice  afterwards  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.   Rich's  — 
the  Ryans  and  Longfellow,  Smith,  etc. 

This  day  at  half-past  ten  great  ringing  of  bell  - 
firing  of  muskets  —  squibs,   etc.,   in   commemora 
tion  of  the  resurrection  of  our  Saviour. 

Sunday,  15th.  —  "  Columb  [us]"  a  little  —  called 
Mr.  d'Oubril's  —  Smith's  —  ev[enin]g  called  at  Mr. 
Everett's  —  not  at  home  —  ret[urne]d  home  and 
wrote. 

Monday,  16th.  —  "Columb[us]"  —  Mr.  Wadding- 
ton  called  —  ev[ening]  at  Theatre  del  Principe  — 
Play  "Del  Rey  Abajo"  -good  —  and  los  genios 
incontrados. 

Tuesday,  17th.  —  "Columb [us]  —  called  at  Mr. 
d'Oubril's  —  see  him  —  call  afterwards  at  Mr.  Ever 
ett's  —  ev[enin]g  at  home  —  Mrs.  O'Shea,  John 
O'Shea,  Mr.  Smith. 

Wednesday,  18th.  —  "Columb [us]"  -  call  at  Mr. 
Wiseman's  —  at  Mrs.  Ryan's  —  ev[enin]g  at  opera 
—  "Tibaldo  and  Isolina." 

61 


Thursday,  19th.  -  -  "  Columb[us] "  -  rec[eive]d  let 
ters  from  E.  L,  dated  March  15  —  sombre  — 
Peter  rec[eive]d  letter  from  Beasley  —  ev[enin]g  at 
Theatre  de  la  Cruz  with  Longfellow  —  play  "Celes- 
tina"  —  first  appearance  of  Viny. 

Friday,  20th.  —  " Columbus"  —  ev[enin]g  walk  in 
Prado  —  afterwards  at  home  at  Rich's. 

Saturday,  21st.  —  " Columbus"  -  -  get  fifty  dollars 
of  Mr.  Wiseman  —  making  in  all  $200  —  ev[enin]g 
at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  with  Smith  —  play  —  "El 
Pastelera  de  Madrigal"  in  which  Marcella  played 
very  well. 

Sunday,  22d.  —  "Columb[us] "  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr. 
Everett's  —  rainy  cold  weather. 

Monday,  23d.  —  "Columb[us] "  —  rainy  and  cold 
weather  —  letter  from  Pierre  —  reply  to  it  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  call  at  Mr.  Longfellow's  —  find  him  unwell  - 
stay  there  till  nine  —  letters  had  been  rec[eive]d 
from  Slidell  —  robbed  —  passed  rest  of  ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  d'Oubril's. 

Tuesday,  24th.  —  aColumb[us]"  —  letter  from  Sli 
dell  —  call  at  Mr.  Everett  —  eve[nin]g  at  Longfel 
low's  —  indisposed  —  afterwards  at  Mr.  d'Oubril's 
-  give  book  to  Antoinette  —  Count  Denoff  there  — 
Baron  Lieberman  —  converse  on  German  literature 
and  superstitions. 

Wednesday,  25th.  -  -  "  Columb[us] "  —  call  at 
O'Shea's  —  get  papers  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de 
la  Cruz  —  "La  Casualidad  contra  el  Cuidado." *  Mr. 
Everett  there  —  re[turne]d  home  with  him. 

April  26th.  —  Thursday.  "  Columb[us] "  —  went 
with  Prince  Dolgorucki  to  see  Saloon  of  the  ruined 
palace  of  Buon  —  Retiro  —  painted  in  fresco  by 
Jordan  —  another  room  with  battles  of  the  Moors  — 

1  "Chance  against  Precaution." 
62 


Triumphal  car  in  which  Ferdinand  entered  on  his 
return  from  Cadiz  —  pretty  view  from  the  old 
garden  —  call  at  Mrs.  Ryan's  —  ev[enin]g  at  home 
-  write  letter  to  Slidell  and  Kenney. 

Friday,  27th. — "  Columb[us] "  -  send  letter  to  Sli 
dell  —  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  d'OubriPs  —  till  twelve. 

Saturday,  28th.  —  "Columb[us]"  -ev[enin]g  at 
Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  the  original  of  "The  Liar" 
—  took  Spanish  lesson  this  day. 

Sunday,  29th.  —  "Columb[us]"  -  ev[enin]g  go  to 
see  the  toros  come  in  from  country  —  afterwards  at 
Mr.  d'OubriFs  —  tell  story  to  children. 

Monday,  80th.  —  Morn'g  —  toros  —  letter  from 
Slidell  and  from  Spaniard  in  America  occupied  on 
grammar  —  ev[enin]g  at  Theatre  de  la  Cruz  —  send 
letter  by  post  to  Kenney. 

[This  concludes  the  day-by-day  entries  in  this  volume; 
but  it  is  worth  while  transcribing  two  other  entries,  one 
on  the  last  sheet  of  the  book,  and  the  other  written  on 
the  inside  of  the  back  cover.  The  first  of  these  notes  is 
this  well-expressed  thought:] 

A  monument  is  generally  a  saint's  paymen[t]  of  a 
debt  withheld  during  the  life  of  the  creditor. 

[The  second  note  is  a  bit  of  description:] 

Man  crawls  out  of  stable  of  rubbish  which  he  calls 
a  house.  He  is  cov[ere]d  with  a  quantity  of  rags 
which  he  calls  clothes  and  a  pyramid  of  rags  which 
he  calls  cap. 


63 


SPAIN 

JULY  AND  AUGUST,    1829 

July  28th.1  —  Tuesday.  Breakfast  with  Muriel 
the  painter  where  I  met  the  Duke  of  Gor2  —  take 
leave  of  them  —  dine  at  the  Fonda  y  Cruz  of  Malta. 
Ev[enin]g,  at  five  o'clock  leave  Granada  in  company 
with  Mr.  Raphael  Sneyd  in  tartana3  for  Murcia 
escorted  by  Antonio,  a  long-legged,  tall,  swarthy 
Portuguese,  armed  with  escopeta4  —  wind  up  among 
wild  mountain  scenery  —  get  a  last  look  at  the  Al- 
hambra  —  mountains  arid  and  stern.  No  one  could 
have  an  idea  that  the  vega5  of  Granada  lay  below  - 
here  and  there  little  patches  of  vegetation  —  houses 
with  vines  —  girl  seated  at  the  door  of  one,  her  hair 
tastily  dressed  with  flowers  —  neat  stockings  and 
shoes  —  meet  solitary  muleteer  with  musket  hang 
ing  at  saddle.  To  our  right  is  the  Sierra  Nevada  - 
at  three  leagues  distance  come  to  Huelva,  a  pretty 
village  among  trees  —  put  up  at  posada  kept  by  a 
Frenchman  —  close  by  a  mill  with  great  rush  of 

1  On  this  day  Irving  left  the  Alhambra  for  England,  having  ac 
cepted  President  Jackson's  appointment  to  the  Secretaryship  of 
Legation  at  the  Court  of  St.  James. 

2  The  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Gor,  with  their  family  of  children, 
became  Irving's  most  agreeable  friends  during  his  two  months'  so 
journ  at  the  Alhambra. 

3  A  "kind  of  rumble  tumble,"  as  Irving  described  it,  "on  two 
wheels,  resembling  a  covered  English  market-cart." 

4  A  light  musket  carried  by  guides  and  soldiers. 

6  A  soft  valley  of  great  richness  and  fertility,  forming  a  pleas 
ing  contrast  to  the  general  melancholy  grandeur  of  the  mountains 
and  wild  country. 

64 


water  amid  noble  trees  —  fountain  falls  into  a 
trough  in  face  of  the  inn  —  the  sound  of  water  par 
ticularly  agreeable  in  the  hot  season.  Make  tea  — 
comfortable  meal  —  the  expedients  of  a  Spanish 
posada  —  break  sugar  with  knife  on  the  back  of  a 
chair  —  heat  water  in  a  chocolate  pot  —  make  tea 
in  a  jug  —  spread  our  mattress  on  the  floor. 

July  29th.  --Wednesday.  Start  at  three  o'clock 
-pass  up  a  wild,  lonely  mountain  defile  called 
Puente1  de  Ceregi  —  bad  place  for  robbers  —  An 
tonio  runs  ahead  —  herbage  aromatic.  Nothing 
can  be  more  stern  and  solitary  than  the  mountains 
jagged  with  rugged  stones  that  at  a  distance  show 
rough,  scarred  garrisons  with  giants. 

Fresh  morning  air  —  sun  gilding  summits  — 
shepherd  driving  his  flock  up  the  rough  side  of 
mountain  —  string  of  muleteers  passing  by  a  cross 
pass  between  mountains  —  flocks  of  goats  —  pass 
called  Prada  del  Rey  —  very  simple  bold  scenery  - 
bold  grey  mountains  in  front  as  we  go  up  the  pass  - 
pass  by  a  high  cliff  piled  up  with  rocks.  Antonio 
pointed  out  a  hole  on  the  summit  overhung  by  a 
crag  which  was  the  entrance  to  a  cave  in  which  the 
robbers  took  shelter  when  they  turned  out  here  on 
a  raid. 

Muleteer  tells  us  up  here  is  a  barraquilla2  —  very 
bad  for  robbers. 

Antonio  points  out  a  nest  in  rocks  where  one  had 
slept  that  night  —  said  he  had  taken  two  there  about 
a  year  before  while  travelling  with  the  young  Mar 
quis  of  Villa  Franco. 

Beautiful  little  wild  pass  winding  among  rugged 

1  With  Irving' s  handwriting  one  easily  mistakes  Fuente  (foun 
tain)  for  Puente  (bridge). 

2  A  little  hut. 

65 


limestones    covered   with   lichen   and   ivy  —  great 
place  for  robbers  —  called  Los  Dientes  de  la  Vieja1 

-  a  barranca2  on  one  side  of  the  road. 

Pass  by  La  Venta  del  Molinar  pleasantly  situated 
by  a  little  brook  with  willows  and  silver  poplars  — 
climbed  a  sierra  and  pass  along  a  deep  valley,  with 
the  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  right  —  fine,  stern  moun 
tain  scenery  —  open  in  some  places.  Arrive  quarter 
before  ten  at  a  miserable  little  village  where  we 
stopped  to  pass  the  heat  of  the  day  —  get  a  cool 
room,  shave,  wash  and  dress  ourselves  and  lie  on 
mattresses. 

About  a  league  before  arriving  at  Guadix,  we 
are  met  by  the  administrator  of  the  Duke  of  Gor 
with  several  canons,  etc.,  who  have  come  with  a 
carriage  to  convey  us  to  the  Duke's  house  in  Guadix 

-  arrive  there  towards  dusk  —  fine  Alameda  —  re 
mains  of  old  Moorish _cas£lev    At  the  administrator's 
weTiave  a  tertulia  of  canons,3  etc.,  one  of  whom  has 
been  many  years  in  Persia  —  ices  and  biscuits  —  a 
good  supper  and  good  bed. 

July  30th.  —  Thursday.  Set  off  at  four  o'clock 
in  the  morning  —  walk  almost  the  whole  way  to 
Gor  —  the  vega  of  Guadix  very  rich  —  town  pic 
turesque,  with  Sierra  Nevada  behind  it  —  pass  over 
great,  solitary,  silent  heights  and  plains  —  sit  for 
some  tune  under  a  tree  commanding  wide  view 
over  dry,  heated  country  —  nothing  but  the  note 
of  a  cricket  —  all  the  heaths  and  mounts  covered 
with  aromatic  herbs.  About  half -past  eight  come 
in  sight  of  Gor,  situated  in  a  little  green  valley  with 
silver  run  of  water,  a  mere  sloping  hollow  among 

1  I.e.,  the  teeth  of  the  old  woman. 

2  A  deep  ravine  caused  by  heavy  rains  or  a  watercourse. 

3  A  "conversazione"  mainly  composed  of  priests. 

66 


arid  heights,  with  high  mountains  behind  covered 
with  dark  shrubs.  Castle  of  Gor  dominating  vil 
lage  —  eagles  soaring  —  pass  thro'  valley  —  flocks 
of  white  goats.  Gor  a  poor  little  village  —  castle 
called  Palacio  —  very  old,  with  wainscotted  ceil 
ings  —  great  court  with  columns  support'g  gallery 
-room  with  deep  chimney  —  walls  adorned  with 
copper  and  brass  vessels  —  walls  very  thick  — 
grated  windows  —  a  few  small  prints  of  saints.  The 
administrator  a  man  who  has  suffered  for  liberal 
sentiments  —  tall,  stout  man  —  nephew  a  light, 
active  man  —  good  face  good  manners  —  shews  us 
his  guns  with  patent  locks  —  niece,  a  pretty- 
looking  girl,  waits  on  us  —  little  girls  of  the  family 
peep  in  shyly  —  floors  of  brick  —  walls  white  — 
arms  of  Gor,  lion  and  castle  divided  by  blue  diagonal 
band  in  two  dragons'  mouths  —  people  very  civil 
and  frank. 

Monastery  of  Gor  with  the  old  monteras.1 

In  the  Castle  —  the  room  in  which  I  lie  down 
in  a  tower  —  thick  walls  —  one  window  —  large 
wooden  chest  —  vase  hanging  ag[ain]st  the  wall  for 
holy  water. 

In  Gor  the  women  have  white  woollen  mantillas, 
something  like  the  Moorish  women. 

Four  prisoners  brought  to  Gor  heavily  ironed 
and  with  strong  escort  on  their  way  to  Malaga  — 
part  of  a  band  or  fraternity  of  twenty-seven  who 
were  in  various  places  and  exchanged  their  booty. 
The  captain  had  once  robbed  Antonio. 

Leave  Gor  about  half -past  two  —  walk  for  some 
distance  —  open  plains  on  mountains  —  high  moun 
tain  scenery  cover'd  with  shrubs  —  battle  between 
an  immense  spider  and  large  fly  in  which  the  former 

1  Skylights  —  glass  covering  over  gallery  or  court. 

67 


is  killed.     We  are  overtaken  by  a  gallara1  from 
Granada  to  Baza,  and  by  the  escort  of  the  robbers 

-  two  soldiers  and  many  peasants  on  horses,  mules 
and  donkeys  —  arrive  at  Baza  after  dark  —  long, 
winding  descent  —  pass  by  alameda 2  —  immense  iron 
cannon  with  hoops  or  ribs  and  great  stone  ball, 
reliques  since  the  tune  of  the  Conquest  —  put  up  at 
inn    kept    by    Frenchman  —  indifferent    supper  - 
sleep  on  a  mattress  on  the  floor  —  Posada  del  Sol3 

-  good  rooms  —  new  house. 

July    31st.  —  Friday.      At    daybreak    muleteers 
arrive  with  a  long  train  of  mules  laden  with  mer 
chandise,  and  the  first  one  carrying  our  trunks  - 
they  travel  all  night  and  lie  by  the  day. 

Leave  Baza  at  a  little  after  four  o'clock  —  fine 
alameda  —  on  leaving  the  town  —  pass  by  a  small 
chapel  erected  on  the  spot  where  according  to  the 
vulgar  tradition  Isabella4  fired  the  last  cannon  - 
vega  of  Baza  a  wide  plain  with  mountains  at  a  dis 
tance  —  pass  thro'  hilly,  arid  country  —  about 
-  arrive  at  Cullar,  a  large  village  with  a  green 
valley  and  orchard  contrasting  with  the  aridity  of 
the  surround'g  country  —  suburbs  of  Cullar  - 
people  living  in  caves  —  children  naked  and  sun 
burnt —  put  up  at  large  posada  in  plaza.  On 
the  road  to  this  place  Antonio  overtakes  an  old 
comrade  —  fellow  soldier,  a  native  of  Arragon, 
bound  to  Valencia  —  lets  him  hang  his  pack  behind 
the  tartana. 

1  Galera,  —  a  rude  coach  or  heavy  covered  waggon. 

2  A  public  walk  with  rows  of  trees. 

8  /.  e.,  Tavern  or  Inn  of  the  Sun.  The  Spanish  taverns  of  the 
day  seem  to  have  offered  scant  accommodations  for  travellers,  as 
we  note  that  Irving  had  frequently  to  send  his  "long-legged  Portu 
gese"  down  into  the  wretched  villages  to  forage  for  food. 

4  Baza  was  captured  in  1489  by  Queen  Isabella,  with  the  help 
of  the  cannon  which  Irving  saw  in  the  Alameda. 

68 


Inn  —  several  women  about  it  who  have  a  gypsy 
look  —  one  who  appears  to  be  the  mistress  is  young 
and  handsome  —  olive  complexion  —  slender  ankles 
and  feet  —  string  of  pearls  around  her  neck  —  long 
silver  chain  with  relique  —  earrings  with  imitation 
of  diamonds  —  embroidered  bodice  —  she  is  big 
with  child.  Antonio  tells  me  that  it  is  a  gypsy 
family.  The  mother  and  other  daughters  have 
likewise  silver  chains  —  one  has  a  sky-blue  silk 
bodice  —  a  beautiful  child  about  ten  years  old 
that  is  silly. 

Plaza  Real  at  half-past  six  —  French  merchants. 
Retired  to  take  siesta  —  greyhounds  sleeping  in 
sun  —  doors  of  shops  with  neat  awnings  —  a  group 
of  peasants  —  monteras 1  —  mantles  of  striped  cloth 
—  swarm  of  borricos2  cross  place  with  water-jugs 
slung  across.  Window  of  prison  opposite  (cabilas) 3 
closed  —  prisoners  sleeping  —  shoes  of  espartena* 
hanging  in  grate  of  the  window  —  arrival  of  stu 
dent  begging  —  student  in  old  cocked  hat,  a  stu 
dent's  cloak  wrapped  round  him  leaving  one  shoulder 
out  —  striped  cotton  trousers,  espartena  shoes  - 
a  little  Valencian  with  petticoat  trousers,  and 
leading  a  neat  pony. 

Scene  in  the  interior  of  the  posada  —  great  com 
partments  divided  by  arches  —  in  one  part  four 
Valencians  dining  —  in  another  at  the  foot  of  the 
staircase  a  man  and  boy  making  sieves  —  several 
mules  and  asses  loading  —  in  another  part,  the 
family  —  some  seated  on  the  floor  —  the  one  with 
child  lolling  and  fanning  herself  —  her  sister  a 
very  pretty  dark  girl  working.  On  a  bench  near  them 
is  then-  brother,  a  middle-sized  young  man  about 

1  Caps  worn  by  peasants.  2  Asses. 

3  This  word  is  perplexing.  4  Sandals  made  of  feather  grass. 

69 


twenty-two,  handsome,  with  coloured  h'k'f  [hand 
kerchief]  round  his  head  —  a  shirt  with  worked 
ruffles  —  green  plaid  plush  jacket  thrown  over 
shoulder  —  red  silk  bands  of  a  vest  beneath  — 
green  plush  breeches  with  rows  of  large  silver  but 
tons  —  botinas 1  of  a  handsome  form  and  shoes.  The 
girls  have  frills  and  bibs  to  their  shift  sleeves  — 
chains  of  filagree  silver  with  silver  medals  —  pearl 
necklaces.  Their  basquinas  open  on  one  side  and 
laced  and  fringed  —  their  combs  ornamented  with 
silver  lines  —  their  bodices  worked.  The  crazy 
girl  sings  and  dances  a  Castilian  dance  —  looks 
languishing  with  her  large  dark  eyes  —  has  on  a 
shift  and  basquina  —  the  shift  sleeves  fringed  —  the 
basquina  open  on  one  side  —  long  gold  pendants 
in  her  ears.  She  is  barefooted  —  twists  her  arms 
together  and  sits  on  the  floor  —  once  a  day  towards 
night  she  becomes  wild  and  would  tear  her  hair  and 
clothes  and  bite  were  they  not  to  bind  her.  They 
have  tried  baths  with  her  with  some  effect  —  the 
young  gypsy  fellow  tells  me  that  her  sister  who  was 
with  child  cared  for  nothing  but  to  romp  with  the 
men.  She  said  he  was  a  little  mad. 

Leave  Cullar  about  three  —  pass  thro7  hilly 
country  —  hills  covered  with  coarse  shrub,  etc.,  so 
as  to  be  green  —  some  shallow  valleys  cultivated  — 
excellent  road.  Arrive  at  Chiribel  about  nine 
o'clock  —  a  small  village  —  posada  destitute  of 
everything  —  send  out  and  get  brown  bread  and 
eggs  in  the  village.  Posada  has  great  arches  - 
looks  like  cavern  —  muleteers  wrapped  in  manias 
lying  on  floor. 

August  1st.  —  Saturday.     Leave  Chiribel  about 
four  o'clock.    The  road  for  great  part  of  the  morn'g 

1  Gaiters. 
70 


lies  along  a  rambla1  bordered  by  fine  trees  —  the 
mountains  around  high,   grey,   and  arid  but  pic 
turesque.     After  travelling  three  leagues  we  arrive 
at  Velez-Rubio  —  neat  town  situated  in  pleasant 
valley  surrounded  by  high,  grey,  rocky  mountains  - 
after  breakfast  called  on  the  curate,  Don   Pablo, 
Brother  of  Frasquita  of  the  Alhambra.     Not  at 
home,  but  found  the  sister  and  niece  of  Frasquita  - 
the   latter    much   resembling  Dolores2  —  sat    with 
them  for  about  an  hour. 

Velez-Rubio  is  very  picturesque  —  when  viewed 
at  a  distance  from  the  East  a  belt  of  orchards  below, 
the  church  rising  above  —  and  lofty  grey  mountains 
around  —  after  leaving  it  we  have  a  steep  ascent 
among  dizzy  mountains.  We  see  Velez  Blanco  at  a 
distance  with  its  old  Moorish  castle  —  fine,  wild 
mountain  scenery  —  travel  all  the  afternoon  in 
the  bed  of  a  rambla  —  wild,  forlorn,  solitary  coun 
try  with  only  here  and  there  at  great  distance  a 
cortijo*  —  arrive  about  seven  o'clock  at  Puerta 
Lombreras  —  a  poor  village  situated  each  side  of 
the  bed  of  the  river  —  poor  posada  —  nothing  in 
the  house  —  have  to  send  to  opposite  side  of  the 
rambla  to  procure  eggs  and  tomatoes  for  supper. 
N.  B.  Between  Velez  and  Puerta  Lombreras  pass 
the  boundary  line  and  enter  the  ancient  kingdom  of 
Murcia  —  supper,  night's  lodging,  chocolate  one- 
half  dollar. 

August  2d.  —  Sunday.  Leave  Puerta  Lombreras 
at  daybreak  and  walk  for  about  two  leagues  —  road 
along  a  descending  plain  bordered  by  arid  moun- 


1  A  sandy  bed  of  a  stream  gone  dry. 

2  The  bright-eyed  little  Spanish  maid  who  waited  upon  Irving 
during  his  stay  at  the  Alhambra. 

3  Farmhouse. 

71 


tains  —  the  plain  at  first  sandy,  but  improves  as  we 
proceed,  until  we  come  to  the  rich  vega  of  Lorca 
(three  leagues  distant).  Lorca  large  town,  pic 
turesque  —  at  a  distance  a  Moorish  castle  above 
it,  at  present  a  prison  —  fine  alameda  with  noble 
trees  —  fine  fountain,  called  Fuente  del  Oro,  with 
many  spouts  casting  water  into  a  long  trough - 
town  divided  from  suburb  by  a  wide,  sandy  bed  of 
a  mountain  torrent,  in  centre  of  which  stands  a 
large  convent  surrounded  by  gardens.  About 
twenty-two  years  since  a  lake  situated  among  the 
hills  broke  its  banks  and  swept  down  this  bed  carry 
ing  everything  before  it.  Houses  were  demolished, 
the  convent  reduced  to  ruins,  and  many  lives  lost. 
The  peasantry  about  this  part  of  the  country  wear 
high,  conical  monteras  of  black  velvet  —  wide 
petticoat  trousers  of  linen,  bare  legs  or  stocking 
leggings,  and  sandals  of  espartena  —  a  sash  round 
the  waist  and  have  the  look  of  Moors  —  women 
with  white  woollen  mantillas.  Scattered  palm  trees 
give  the  country  an  African  look  and  suit  the  wide, 
sandy,  sunburnt  plain  and  arid  mountains.  Stop 
about  eight  o'clock  at  a  posada  in  the  suburb  —  an 
old,  gorbellied1  landlord  with  montera  and  row  of 
large  filigree  silver  buttons  to  his  waistcoat  — 
grey  hairs  plaited  behind.  A  little  tempest  of  a 
chamber-maid  in  a  great  fury  because  she  had  to 
prepare  rooms  for  us.  Antonio  is  very  authorita 
tive  at  the  inns,  with  a  voice  as  if  from  a  barrel. 

In  the  posada  under  the  archway  two  travellers 
seated,  taking  chianti  —  a  muleteer  sleeping  on  his 
mania  on  the  pavement  —  another  in  the  passage 
to  our  room.  Antonio  sallies  forth  to  buy  provi 
sions  for  breakfast  —  room  in  posada  —  an  earthen 

1  This  synonym  for  big-bellied  is  now  obsolete. 
72 


floor  —  one  wooden  chair  with  espartena  bottoms 

-  one  without  a  back  —  a  table  of  rough  wood  — 
low,  black  and  dirty. 

In  the  lower  floor  of  the  posada  begging  friar  with 
broad  white  hat,  cowl  thrown  back,  a  sack  slung 
over  his  shoulders  well  filled. 

Fountain  near  the  posada  —  an  obelisk  with 
several  bronz  lions'  heads  spouting  crystal  water  — 
fountain  surrounded  by  women  with  earthen  jars 

-  donkeys  with  water  jars,  etc.,  etc. 

Posada  infested  with  begging  children,  ragged  boys, 
etc.  —  no  glass  windows  in  these  parts  of  Spain. 

Leave  Lorca  about  two  o'clock  —  journey  along 
a  plain  partially  cultivated,  but  for  the  most  part 
poor  and  sandy,  bordered  by  mountains.  About 
sunset  arrive  at  Totana,  a  large  village  that  has  a 
Moorish  look,  most  of  the  houses  being  flat-roofed 
—  meet  with  a  Swiss  at  the  posada  —  a  traveller 
for  a  commercial  house.  Seated  before  the  door  of 
the  inn  in  a  kind  of  courtyard,  muleteers,  buxom 
landlady,  etc.,  etc.  —  blind  fiddler  and  guitar 
player  arrive  —  play  in  the  kitchen  and  set  all 
hands  dancing  —  one  boy  who  attends  the  - 
and  who  had  trudged  on  foot  all  day,  joins  in  the 
dance,  until  in  a  profuse  perspiration.  Peasants, 
muleteers,  etc.,  lying  asleep  on  their  manias  on  the 
pavements  of  the  stable  yard  in  the  open  air- 
pure  starlight  above  them. 

August  3d.  —  Monday.  Leave  Totana  at  half- 
past  one  o'clock  in  the  night  —  travel  by  starlight. 
Sleep  in  the  tartana  —  miss  our  road  and  travel 
for  half  an  hour  on  a  by-road  —  cross  ploughed 
fields  to  the  main  road  —  day  dawns  —  wide 
plains,  with  now  and  then  a  flock  of  goats  — 
dry  but  picturesque  mountains.  Walk  for  above  a 

73 


league  —  stop  at  ruins  of  small  Moorish  tower  in 
midst  of  the  plain  — a  refuge  for  shepherds  - 
peasants  pass  us  with  drove  of  donkeys  —  peasants 
in  short  linen  trousers  —  manias  thrown  over  their 
shoulders.  About  half-past  six  arrive  at  Lebrilla,  a 
large,  but  poor-looking  village  nearly  cut  in  two  by 
a  deep  barranca  —  houses  clay-coloured  and  low  — 
stop  at  posada  built  by  Government  —  vast  and 
solid,  but  as  usual  destitute  of  provisions  —  send 
Antonio  out  on  the  forage  to  get  eggs  and  tomatoes. 
Leave  Lebrilla  at  half-past  eight  —  road  lies  over 
dry  plain  —  Murcia  seen  at  a  distance  —  tower  of 
Cathedral  —  mountains  beyond  —  plain  becomes 
richly  cultivated  as  we  approach. 


[Here  Irving  has  made  a  pencil  drawing  of  his 
courier,  Antonio,  with  gun  over  shoulder.] 

74: 


Passed  between  orchards  and  gardens  with  im 
mense  fig  trees,  mulberries,  oranges,  citrons,  pome 
granates,  grapes,  Indian  corn  and  here  and  there 
palm  trees  —  houses  of  reeds  plaistered  neatly. 
Enter  Murcia  by  fine  alameda  —  put  up  at  large 
posada  —  our  rooms  command  view  of  bridge,  river 
(Segura),  Cathedral,  distant  gardens  and  mountains 

—  fine   row   of   houses    facing    the   river  —  noble 
quay. 

In  the  evening  walk  to  the  Cathedral  —  rich 
Gothic  chapel  of  the  Marquis  of  Velez  —  cracks 
in  the  vaults  of  the  Cathedral  caused  by  earth 
quake —  street  of  the  Plateria,1  very  good  silver 
smiths'  shops  —  neat  streets  and  good  edifices  in 
the  town  —  beautiful  walk  called  the  —  — 2  winding 
on  elevated  terraces  through  gardens  and  orchards  - 
fine  vegetation  —  beautiful  view  over  the  trees  at 
the  waving  lines  of  rocky  mountains  which  bound 
the  view  —  bridge  over  the  Segura  —  monuments 
to  the  virgin  cracked  and  broken. 

August  4th.  —  Tuesday.  Police  refuse  to  sign 
passport  without  our  calling  on  them  —  make  some 
difficulties  —  call  on  banker  who  sends  young  man 
with  us  —  cause  of  difficulty  was  they  could  not 
read  our  passports,  being  in  French  and  English 

—  mounted  to  the  top  of  the  Cathedral  tower - 
noble   view   over   the   vega  which   equals   that   of 
Granada  —  orchard  —  gardens  —  country  houses  — 
palms  —  cypresses  —  picturesque  mountains  and  one 
part  level,  stretching  eastward  towards  the  sea. 

Leave  Murcia  about  quarter-past  two.    The  road 

1  The  name  of  the  street  is  derived  as  Irving  indicates,  from 
the  number  of  silversmiths'  shops.     It  is  narrow,  and  no  wheeled 
traffic  is  permitted. 

2  Irving  undoubtedly  refers  to  the  Paseo  del  Malec6n,  Murcia's 
noted  promenade. 

75 


to  Orihuela  (four  leagues  distant)  lies  along  the 
valley  of  the  Segura,  a  continued  garden  —  fruits, 
vegetables,  grain,  etc.,  of  the  finest  kinds  —  groups 
of  palm  trees,  date  trees  —  cottage  built  of  reeds 
and  plaister  to  stand  the  shock  of  earthquakes. 
The  approach  to  Orihuela  is  uncommonly  pic 
turesque  —  lofty  mountains]  of  naked  stone,  bold 
and  sterile  —  at  their  feet  a  delicious  vega.  We 
pass  cottages  with  flat  roofs  with  palm  trees  above 
them  and  aloes  and  Indian  fig  —  grove  of  oranges, 
citrons,  pomegranates,  etc.  —  great  firs  with  grape 
vines  clambering  about  them  and  clusters  of  grapes 
hanging  among  their  branches  —  fine  convent  of 
Franciscans  —  Orihuela  —  with  flat  roofs  —  Moor 
ish-looking  town  —  houses  cracked  by  earthquake 
-  in  a  public  place  hovels  of  reeds  to  pass  the  night. 
Put  up  at  very  good  posada  —  ascend  the  hill  to 
College  of  St.  Miguel  from  whence  there  is  a  noble 
view  over  the  glorious  vega  enriched  by  the  windings 
of  the  Segura.  At  a  distance  may  be  seen  River, 
Viega  and  the  sea. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  tower  of  the  Cathedral 
of  Murcia  —  the  mountains  uncommonly  fine  and 
picturesque  in  their  outline  and  of  naked  rocks. 
At  the  tune  of  the  earthquake  these  mountains 
trembled  and  great  stones  came  tumbling  down. 
We  were  shewn  to  the  height  by  a  little,  sturdy 
Valencian  who  smelt  strongly  of  wine  and  his  rosy 
face  shewed  him  to  be  a  bibber.  He  was  uncom 
monly  eloquent  in  praise  of  this  delicious  valley.' 
Orihuela  is  in  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Valencia. 

Had  again  to  go  before  the  police  about  the  pass 
ports  —  found  the  police  office  outside  of  the  town 
in  a  cabin  of  reeds  through  fear  of  the  earthquake. 

August  5th.  —  Wednesday.  Leave  Orihuelo  at 

76 


about  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  —  continue  along 
a  fertile  and  delicious  vega  —  skirt  rosy  sierra  and 
rocky  mountains.  At  the  foot  of  one  of  these  is  a 
hole  from  whence  during  the  late  earthquakes 
water  issued  forth  of  a  noisome  odour  which  withered 
whatever  it  overflowed.  Pass  through  -  —  where 
several  houses  have  been  damaged  by  the  earth 
quake.  The  rich  valley  or  vega  of  the  Segura  has 
all  the  character  of  African  or  Oriental  scenery  - 
flat-roofed  houses  —  groves  of  date  and  palms. 
The  people  might  at  a  distance  be  mistaken  for 
Moors,  wearing  wide,  short  trousers  and  being  bare 
legged.  The  plain  is  cultivated  with  maize,  flax, 
hemp  —  fruits  of  southern  character  —  dates,  pome 
granates,  oranges,  citrons,  grapes,  olives,  etc.  The 
locust  or  cricket  makes  its  sultry  sound  —  people 
in  the  skirts  of  the  town  in  huts  of  reeds  tied  to 
gether,  to  withstand  earthquakes.  The  rich  vega 
is  encased  as  it  were  in  mountains  of  naked  rock 
that  have  a  burning  look  in  the  heat  of  the  day. 
We  see  to  our  left  the  Sierra  of  Orihuela  —  then  the 
Sierra  Crevillente,  infamous  for  robbers.  A  peasant, 
however,  assured  us  that  within  the  month  past  the 
Realistas  have  killed  about  twenty  robbers,  and  the 
roads  are  now  more  secure.  In  the  course  of  the 
morning,  we  hear  the  rumbling  of  an  earthquake 
which  endured  about  three  seconds.  The  people  of 
the  villages  were  afterwards  talking  of  it.  Many 
shocks  have  been  felt  within  the  last  three  weeks, 
but  none  serious. 

Approach  Elche  —  great  grove  of  date  trees  like 
a  small  forest  —  Elche  has  an  Oriental  look  —  flat 
roofs  and  towers  —  palm  trees  rising  above  its 
houses  —  the  domes  of  some  of  the  houses  covered 
with  metal  or  with  tiles  in  imitation  of  metal  glit- 

77 


tering  in  the  sun  —  arrive  there  between  ten  and 
eleven. 

In  posada,  as  in  Spanish  houses  generally,  water 
in  cool,  porous  jars  standing  about  to  cool  in  the 
drafts  of  air. 

Leave  Elche  about  two  o'clock  —  pass  thro' 
great  groves  of  date  trees  giving  the  place  a  com 
pletely  Oriental  look.  After  leaving  these  we  drive 
thro'  a  dry  country  growing  more  and  more  arid 
and  sterile  as  we  approach  the  sea,  of  which  we  at 
length  come  in  sight.  About  six  o'clock  we  arrive 
at  Alicante  —  fortresses  on  the  summits  of  the 
lofty  and  craggy  hills  —  put  up  at  the  posada  of 
-call  and  leave  card  at  Mr.  Adams',  the 
American  Consul  —  call  on  the  Chancellor  of  the 
French  Consulate,  M.  May,  and  who  accompanies 
me  to  make  arrangements  for  tartana  for  Valencia 
-  meet  Mr.  Adams,  who  passes  the  evening  with  us. 

Call  at  Gen[era]l  Irriberry's,  the  Governor,  about 
our  passport.  He  is  a  tall,  thin,  dark  man  with 
scrubby,  bushy  moustache. 

August  6th.  —  Thursday.  Breakfasted  at  Mr. 
Adams'  —  present,  Mr.  McCulloch,  Mr.  — 
story  of  El  Gato,  famous  robber  of  the  mountains 
near  Alicante  —  entered  a  village  disguised  with  his 
men  as  -  who  pursue  robbers  —  secured  the 
passes  of  the  grand  square  —  ordered  the  alcalde1 
executed  and  curate  be  brought  forth  and  shot. 

Of  another  called  -  — ,  who  infested  the  Sierra 
of  Crevillente. 

Dined  at  one  o'clock  with  Mr.  Adams  —  set  off 
at  three  —  in  tartana  with  mozo,2  named  Bonotisto, 
and  two  soldiers  as  escort  —  road  lies  west  gradually 

1  Mayor,  or  justice  of  the  peace. 

2  A  youth,  a  fellow,  or  servant. 

78 


ascending  among  arid  hills  —  here  and  there  patches 
of  olives  and  locusts  —  cultivated  for  the  fruit  - 
road  stony  and  laborious  —  pass  thro7  village  of 
Mon6var  —  stopped  for  the  night  at  a  venta1  four 
and  one  half  leagues  from  Alicante  —  venta  one 
story  high  —  with  stables  round  a  large,  walled 
yard.  We  have  a  small  room  on  ground  floor  — 
a  table  as  high  as  a  stool  —  a  tin  lamp ;  everything 
poor  and  miserable.  While  shaving  and  washing 
the  landlord  advises  us  to  close  the  window  as  any 
robber  might  shoot  in  with  his  escopeta  —  said  there 
had  been  many  robbers  about  those  parts  but  they 
have  killed  or  taken  up  many  of  late.  One  was 
brought  by  this  evening  and  lodged  in  prison  in  the 
neighbouring  village.  He  had  been  robbing  for  two 
years  past.  The  alcalde  of  a  neighbouring  village 
(about  twenty-seven  years  of  age)  had  shewed  himself 
very  brave  in  pursuing  robbers  —  put  himself  at  the 
head  of  the  soldiers  —  had  killed  the  first  robber  with 
his  own  hands,  shooting  him  thro'  the  head.  Venta 
extremely  solitary  --  only  three  or  four  people 
inhabiting  it  —  in  a  silent  and  lonely  country. 

This  evening  sultry  —  the  moon  begins  to  give 
light  in  the  early  part  of  the  nights  —  sup  on  a 
musk  melon.  The  soldiers  and  muleteers,  host  and 
hostess  sup  at  a  table  in  the  kitchen  part  of  the 
venta,  by  the  light  of  a  tin  lamp  hung  in  an  arch  - 
make  a  long  and  merry  repast. 

We  desire  the  muleteer  to  be  ready  to  set  off  at 
three  in  the  morning,  but  the  landlord  advises  us 
not  to  start  before  daylight.  " After  to-morrow/7 
said  he,  "you  may  start  when  you  please,  but  you 
have  now  to  pass  thro'  some  narrow  and  dangerous 
defiles.  You  have  but  two  soldiers  as  guard.  If 

1  A  poor  inn  on  roads  far  from  villages. 

79 


any  robbers  were  on  the  lookout,  they  could  post 
themselves  so  as  to  shoot  down  the  soldiers,  and 
then  —  toMna[s]noche[s]"  We  agreed,  therefore, 
not  to  depart  before  daybreak.  Our  mattresses 
were  spread  on  the  floor  and,  as  usual,  we  lay  down 
in  our  clothes  —  much  incommoded  by  fleas  and 
by  hungry  cats  that  came  prowling  after  ham  that 
we  had  brought  with  us. 

August  7th.  —  Friday.  Leave  the  venta  at  day 
break —  road  passes  through  broken,  arid  country 
-  after  daybreak  see  to  our  left  the  Castle  of  Luna 
—  great,  square,  Moorish  towers,  built  on  the  side 
of  a  rocky  mountain,  with  a  wild,  rocky,  moun 
tainous  country. 

(Story  of  Count  Luna  and  his  son.)  Stop  at  a 
hovel  to  take  brandy  —  we  are  joined  by  a  peasant 
who  tells  of  the  robber  taken  the  day  before.  He 
had  been  twenty  years  infesting  the  mountains  — 
one  of  the  oldest  robbers  in  the  country  —  refused 
to  give  himself  up  to  any  but  the  alcalde  mayor. 
The  latter  is  a  young  man  of  twenty-six.  He 
mounted  his  horse  and  put  himself  at  the  head  of 
the  troops.  When  they  came  to  the  place  he  ad 
vanced  alone.  "  Where  is  this  man  that  wishes  to 
see  me?  Let  him  advance !"  The  robber  ad 
vanced  and  he  levelled  his  escopeta  and  shot  him 
through  the  head. 

We  passed  thro'  a  narrow,  steep  defile  between 
perpendicular  rocks,  famous  for  attacks  of  robbers. 
The  soldiers  mounted  the  heights  and  flanked  the 
defile. 

After  passing  for  two  leagues  thro'  broken,  wild, 
arid  country,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  little  vega  or 
fertile  basin  of  Elda  —  the  town  with  castle. 

Another  castle  at  a  distance  on  a  high,  rocky  hill 

80 


rising  like  a  cone  out  of  the  valley  —  stop  at  Elda 
and  get  fruit  and  bread  —  curate  invites  us  to  his 
house  to  take  chocolate,  —  which  we  decline,  hav 
ing  taken  it  before  our  departure  from  the  venta. 

Women  of  Elda  with  profusion  of  fine  black  hair 
divided  from  the  crown  in  several  small  plaits  and 
passed  under  the  arm.  After  leaving  Elda  we  pass 
thro'  the  little  town  of  Vielar  with  an  old  Moorish 
castle;  in  this  live  many  rich  people.  We  then 
traverse  arid,  broken  country  and  the  vega  of  Vil- 
lena;  very  arid  and  sultry  —  surrounded  by  hills 
that  look  like  cast  iron  —  arrive  at  the  town  about 
eleven,  being  five  leagues  from  the  venta  where  we 
passed  the  night.  Villena  has  a  picturesque  old 
castle  on  an  eminence  commanding  the  town  - 
put  up  at  the  Posada  de  la  Plaza. 

Scene  in  the  posada  —  some  of  the  family  and 
guests  seated  in  an  archway  to  enjoy  cool  air- 
two  muleteers  seated  on  the  earth  in  a  corner  count 
ing  their  copper  coin  —  a  gang  of  peasants  arrive 
with  donkeys  —  short,  thickset  men,  swarthy  as 
Moors  —  dirty  shirts  —  wide  petticoat  trousers 
reaching  to  the  knees  —  sash  around  the  waist  and 
staff  thrust  through  it  behind  with  which  they  beat 
their  donkeys. 

Inscription  on  the  sergeant's  sword: 

No  me  saqueis  sin  rasony 

No  me  embargues  sin  honor. 

Do  not  draw  me  without  reason, 

Do  not  sheath  me  without  honour. 

Villena.  The  castle  apparently  built  on  the  re 
mains  of  a  Moorish  fortress.  There  is  the  square 
keep  of  the  Moorish  castle  but  round  towers  of 
Spanish  construction  are  added.  It  is  a  picturesque 
ruin  and  in  good  preservation. 

81 


We  left  Villena  about  three,  and  had  a  long 
afternoon  thro'  an  arid,  naked,  sultry  country, 
hilly,  but  not  picturesque;  the  grain  is  cut  and  the 
fields  which  in  springtime  would  be  green  are  bare 
and  dry.  We  are  joined  by  two  men  with  muskets 
conveying  a  prisoner  to  the  presidio  at  Valencia  to 
which  he  is  condemned  for  one  year  for  having 
been  concerned  in  smuggling  tobacco.  He  was  a 
short,  stout  man,  black  and  hairy,  but  almost  lame 
from  travelling  on  foot  in  this  hot  weather. 

At  half-past  seven  we  arrive  at  Fuente  Higuera, 
a  small  village,  where  we  put  up  for  the  night,  com 
forted  by  the  sight  of  a  kitchen  cleaner,  and  better 
appointed  than  any  we  had  seen  on  the  road. 

Fat  Sancho  Panza  of  a  landlord  with  long  body 
and  big  paunch  swathed  underneath  with  a  sash- 
petticoat  trousers  —  who  details  at  full  length  and 
with  dramatic  effect  the  story  of  the  robber  killed 
by  the  alcalde. 

August  8th.  —  Saturday.     Discharge  our  soldiers 
-  pay  them. 

Set  off  at  half-past  four  —  overtake  the  guards 
conducting  the  prisoner  who  we  find  is  punished  for 
having  carried  a  letter  from  robbers  to  a  farmer  de 
manding  money. 

After  travelling  about  half  a  league  we  come  into 
the  highroad  from  Madrid  to  Valencia  and  see  a 
diligence  passing,  bound  to  the  former  place  —  road 
lies  through  picturesque  country;  a  kind  of  valley 
between  chains  of  bold  mountains  —  overtake  An 
tonio  the  Sergeant,  the  old  comrade  of  our  late 
escapetora,1  Antonio,  and  who  had  left  us  at  Orihuela. 
He  was  trudging  along  alone  and  was  overjoyed  to 

1  Escopetero;  i.  e.,  the  armed  guard  who  accompanied  all  travellers 
through  this  robber-infested  region. 

82 


see  us  —  we  took  his  heavy  wallet  in  our  tartana. 
The  muleteer  stopped  to  breakfast  at  a  large  posada 
by  the  roadside  and  we  took  some  fruit  under  a  tree. 

Country  improves  as  we  advance  —  valley  to  our 
right  more  fertile  —  mount[ain]s  clothed  with  shrubs, 
etc.  —  pass  to  our  right  the  ruins  of  a  Moorish 
castle  on  an  eminence  called  the  Castle  of  Montesa. 

Weather  hot,  road  dusty  —  about  twelve  o'clock 
arrive  at  an  excellent  posada  —  new  and  with  good 
rooms,  beds,  etc.  —  called  Venta  del  Conde,  near 
Canales  —  built  for  the  diligence  —  great  delay 
and  difficulty  in  getting  wash-basins,  water,  towels, 
etc.,  cleanliness  of  person  not  being  considered 
among  the  wants  of  the  traveller. 

Leave  the  posada  at  three  o'clock  —  road  turns 
more  northwardly  —  to  our  right  we  see  St.  Philip, 
a  picturesque  town  with  old  Moorish  castle  above 
and  a  rich  vega  below  it  —  road  winds  up  a  mountain 
called  the  Sierra  of  St.  Filippe  —  pass  thro'  the 
Puente  y  el  Carcel.1  Zigzag,  steep,  mountainous 
road,  and  have  a  grand  view  over  the  vega  of  Valencia 

—  descend  into   the    vega  —  pass    by  rice  planta 
tions,  fields  of  Indian  corn  —  fruits  of  various  kinds 

—  villages  —  an   air   of   industry,    activity  —  good 
cultivation  —  pass  crosses  on  road,  and  in  one  vil 
lage  there  is  a  kind  of  rude  obelisk  with  the  scull2  of 
a  robber  and  murderer  hanging  in  an  iron  cage  - 
some  of  the  hair  remains  on  the  scull. 

At  nine  o'clock  arrive  at  Alcira  —  streets  full  of 
people  seated  at  their  doors  in  moonlight,  talking, 
laughing,  strumming  guitars  —  put  up  at  a  very 
good  posada. 

Group  on  the  ground  floor  of  the  posada  —  a 

1  Puente  de  la  Carcel;  i.  e.,  bridge  of  the  prison. 

2  An  obsolete  spelling  of  "skull." 

83 


young,  blind  man  who  plays  on  the  guitar,  with  his 
wife  who  has  a  child  lying  asleep  in  her  lap.  They 
sing  several  Spanish  airs  —  peasants  standing  around 
them  in  Valencian  dress  — three  meguelictas1  - 
fine  young  men  —  with  muskets  —  jackets  slung 
over  then-  shoulders  —  group  of  peasants  supping 
and  drinking  black  wine  out  of  Valenian  bottles. 

One  peasant  with  little  cap  on  top  of  his  head  and 
long,  full,  black  locks  —  another,  an  old  man,  with  cap 
on  the  back  of  his  head  —  nearly  bald  —  scattered 
grey  locks. 

In  the  inn  great  display  of  earthenware  —  brass 
and  copper  utensils  well  scoured,  etc.,  and  arranged 
against  the  wall  in  front  of  the  main  entrance. 

August  9th.  —  Sunday.  Left  Alcira  about  quarter- 
past  four  o'clock  —  a  short  distance  from  the  town 
passed  two  obelisks  side  by  side,  ag[ain]st  which 
were  suspended  two  iron  cages  with  the  head- 
sculls  of  murderers.  —  We  had  a  long,  hot  and 
dusty  drive  thro'  the  rich  plain  of  Valencia.  It  is 
highly  cultivated  and  very  populous,  but  a  dead 
level  and  rather  monotonous  —  saw  many  pretty 
women  among  the  young  peasant  girls  —  fairer 
complexions  and  rounder  faces  than  in  most  parts 
of  Spain.  From  an  eminence  on  which  stands  a  tall 
and  ruined  watch  tower  we  caught  a  distant  view 
of  Valencia  —  arrived  there  about  eleven  and  put 
up  at  the  filthy  Fonda  de  la  Paz,  in  front  of  the 
Cathedral. 

After  dressing,  etc.,  went  to  the  Posada  de  la  los 
Puentos2  to  inquire  whether  the  muleteers  had  ar 
rived  with  our  trunks.  They  had  not.  Posada 


1  Megueletes;  belonging   to   the  militia    of  Catalonia   and   the 

the 

84 


2  Posada  de  las  puentes;  i.  e.,  the  tavern  of  the  bridges 


thronged  with  muleteers  and  corsarios1  —  groups 
seated  round  the  great  doorway  —  landlord  and 
family  with  stable-boys,  etc.,  seated  dining  at  a  low 
table  in  the  centre  of  the  great  entrance. 

In  the  evening  strolled  out  with  Mr.  Sneyd  to  the 
alameda  —  found  throng  of  people  in  tartanas,  etc., 
going  into  the  country  —  followed  the  current  over 
bridge  which  crosses  the  Guadalquivir  along  a  great 
avenue  of  trees  for  half  a  league.  We  were  full  of 
conjecture  what  could  be  the  meaning  of  this  con 
course  and  whither  the  current  was  taking  us- 
whether  to  a  fair,  a  religious  fete,  etc.,  etc.  At  length 
we  arrived  at  a  little  village  which  forms  the  sea 
port  of  Valencia  and  found  that  this  throng  was 
formed  by  the  good  people  of  Valencia  going  to  the 
port  to  bathe  in  the  surf.  Places  were  assigned  for 
the  men  and  for  the  women.  There  were  booths 
of  mats,  etc.,  on  the  banks,  where  they  were  pro 
vided  with  bathing  dresses.  Great  array  of  galley 
slaves  at  the  port  ranged  in  platoons  prior  to  being 
turned  into  their  prisons  for  the  night. 

On  our  return  we  saw  a  man  beating  another 
terribly.  The  latter  appeared  to  be  a  dullard.  He 
had  crouched  beneath  the  blow  and  had  squatted 
himself  to  the  earth  like  a  toad  —  the  former  was 
pummelling  him  with  his  fists,  stamping  on  him, 
etc.  His  rage  seemed  to  increase  with  action  and 
at  last  he  seized  a  stone  to  beat  the  head  of  his 
victim.  Three  megueletes  interfered  and  separated 
them,  but  inflicted  no  punishment  on  the  brute. 

The  favourite  vehicle  in  Valencia  is  the  tartana,  a 
mere  covered  cart  drawn  by  one  horse.  Some  are 
finished  with  some  attempt  at  elegance,  but  they 
are  clumsy,  gloomy  carriages. 

1  Privateers. 

85 


On  our  return  we  found  all  the  gay  world  assem 
bled  in  the  glorieta,  which  is  a  very  charming  public 
walk  with  trees  and  fountains. 

We  stopped  at  a  cafe  and  took  ices  and  then  re 
turned  to  our  Inn. 

August  10th.  —  Monday.  Rise  at  five  —  walk 
out  at  six  —  visit  the  market-place  —  popular  scenes 
-soldiers  and  housemaids  —  friar  talking  and 
laughing  with  buxom  wife  of  farmer  —  a  young 
woman  observing  them  from  behind  the  curtain  of 
an  opposite  shop.  After  breakfast  walk  out  with 
Mr.  Sneyd  —  ascend  the  tower  of  the  Cathedral 
from  whence  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and 
vega  —  walk  about  the  city.  In  the  evening  call 
at  the  house  of  our  champion  (who  is  absent)  — 
take  segar J  and  refreshments  with  his  clerk  —  pro 
cure  newspapers.  Evening  at  cafe  taking  ice- 
afternoon  at  home. 

August  llth.  —  Tuesday.  Call  on  Mr.  Campos,  a 
grocer  on  whom  Mr.  Sneyd  has  letter  of  credit  and 
to  whom  our  trunks  are  addressed.  He  engages  to 
forward  them  to  Barcelona  when  they  arrive  at 
Valencia  —  give  our  mattresses  to  the  poor  ser 
geant.  At  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  set  off 
in  the  diligence  for  Barcelona  —  one  seat  in  the 
coupe  fifteen  dollars  and  one  in  the  interior  thirteen 
dollars  —  we  agree  to  change  places  every  stage. 
We  take  chocolate  about  half-past  three  in  the  night 
at  Castell6n  de  la  Plana.  We  pass  thro'  Murviedro, 
the  ancient  Saguntum.2 

Wednesday,  12th.  —  After  daybreak  our  road  lies 
within  sight  of  the  sea  and  at  times  close  to  the 

1  This  seems  to  be  the  only  reference  to  his  own  use  of  tobacco 
to  be  found  in  Irving's  diaries. 

2  Famous  for  making  a  heroic,  though  ineffectual,  resistance  to 
Hannibal  in  219  B.  c. 

86 


shore.  It  then  winds  up  a  promontory  where  there  is 
a  glorious  view  of  various  headlands  and  bays,  watch- 
towers  on  the  rocks,  towns,  villages  in  the  valleys. 
We  are  escorted  by  cavalry  until  we  reach  the  summit 
of  the  promontory  after  which  we  have  infantry. 

After  descending  we  keep  along  a  narrow,  rich 
plain  —  a  range  of  high,  grey,  rocky  mountains  to 
our  left  —  the  sea  to  our  right,  with  watch-towers 
along  its  heights.  At  half -past  six  we  stop  at  a 
venla  on  the  coast  with  a  ruined  castle  above  it. 

At  Alcala  de  Chisbert,  so  called  from  the  old 
Moorish  castle  of  Chisbert,  finely  situated  on  a  high 
mountain. 

Leaving  this  we  pass  thro'  finely  cultivated  and 
varied  country  with  the  dark  blue  Mediterranean 
to  our  right,  from  which  we  have  a  pleasant  breeze. 
The  country  abounds  with  vineyards,  figs  and 
other  fine  fruits,  Indian  corn,  etc.  Palm  trees  are 
scattered  about  it. 

Pass  through  Benicarlo  and  its  extensive  vine 
yards  and  stop  to  dine  at  Vinaroz  at  half-past  one 
-a  good  dinner  —  fish,  flesh,  fowl,  and  game, 
fine  melons,  tomatoes,  sweet  peppers,  etc.,  —  black 
wine.  A  Catalan  at  table  (merchant  of  Barcelona) 
who  is  gay  and  good  humoured  —  vaunts  of  his 
country.  The  Catalans  often  reply  to  the  question, 
"Are  you  a  Spaniard?"  "I  am  a  Catalan."  The 
Catalan  and  his  companion  amuse  themselves  with 
bantering  a  young  Frenchman  who  had  been  boasting 
of  his  good  fortunes  among  the  Spanish  women. 

After  dinner  resume  our  route  which  lies  through 
a  beautiful  country,  well  cultivated  and  adorned 
with  trees  —  cross  a  dry  barranca,  the  barrier  be 
tween  Valencia  and  Catalonia  —  pass  stone  crosses 
where  murders  had  been  committed  —  an  arm  of 

87 


a  robber  elevated  on  a  pole  and  blackening  in  the 
sun.  Just  before  sunset  arrive  at  the  banks  of 
the  Ebro,  a  turbid,  yellow  stream  about  the  width 
of  the  Seine  —  await  the  arrival  of  the  other  diligence 
on  opposite  side.  Beautiful  sunset  —  the  sun  goes 
down  behind  the  Sierra  of  Tortosa  —  long,  pictur 
esque  mountain  outlines.  Fine  rich  country  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  with  here  and  there  a 
watch-tower.  (This  afternoon  our  road  lay  fre 
quently  along  the  seashore.)  Cross  the  Ebro  — 
moon  beginning  to  shine  on  one  side  of  us  as  the 
daylight  declined  on  the  other. 

Pleasant  walk  by  twilight  on  the  plain  to  the 
venta,  nearly  a  mile  off,  by  a  tall  watch-tower  — 
three  snakes  glide  across  our  path.  The  plain  is 
covered  with  aromatic  shrubs  which  perfume  the 
air,  and  is  bordered  by  fine  chains  of  mountains. 
The  venta  solitary  with  high,  round  tower  —  the 
rooms  hot  as  the  roof  is  low  and  of  reeds.  Pass  part 
of  the  evening  by  moonlight  under  the  trees  of  the 
Noya,  a  pleasant,  cool  resort  in  hot  climates  — 
Catalan  bantering  the  young  Frenchman.  Ev[enin]g 
group  round  supper  table  in  the  venta,  each  taking 
his  individual  repast.  Muleteers  supping  in  the 
open  ah1  at  a  door  at  the  foot  of  the  tower. 

August  18th.  —  Thursday.  At  half-past  two  we 
are  summoned  to  depart.  I  had  lain  down  on  mat 
tress  in  my  clothes  —  take  chocolate.  Road  lies 
over  a  high  mountainous  pass  called  the  Col  de 
-afterwards  we  pass  another  noble  defile 
where  the  road  climbs  zigzag  up  the  mountain  with 
extensive  view  over  the  stern  grey  mountains.  It 
is  called  the  Col  de  Balaguer  and  has  been  the  scene 
of  many  bloody  battles.  Pass  thro'  Cambrils  on  the 
banks  of  the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent. 

88 


In  the  course  of  the  morning  one  of  the  mules 
stops  and  detains  the  whole  train  in  a  piece  of  deep, 
sandy  road.  We  have  to  get  out  and  wait  under  a 
noble  locust  tree  in  a  vineyard  until  another  mule 
can  be  procured,  all  coaxing  and  cudgelling  proving 
in  vain  with  the  stubborn  animal. 

Proceed  thro'  magnificent  plain  covered  with 
vineyards,  orchards,  olive  plantations,  and  enliv 
ened  by  towns  and  villages.  Pass  thro'  Tarragona 
situated  on  an  eminence  command'g  an  extensive 
view  over  sea  and  land.  It  is  a  tolerably  well- 
built  town  with  a  broad  street  running  thro'  it  and 
strong  fortifications.  Dine  here  and  are  well  served 
at  the  inn  —  a  Franciscan  friar,  fat,  rank,  and 
dirty,  gets  into  the  interior.  Not  long  after  leaving 
Tarragona  we  pass  under  a  Roman  triumphal  arch 
in  good  preservation  —  country  beautifully  diversi 
fied  with  various  cultivation  —  hamlets  and  houses 
with  towers  —  old  Moorish  castles  —  peasants  smok 
ing  the  soil. 

In  the  ev[enin]g  passed  thro'  the  village  of  - 
situated  on  a  hill.  This  and  Villafranca  were  the 
places  where  the  Catalonian  War  commenced  in 
1808.  The  inhabitants  fired  on  the  French  after 
they  had  left  the  place,  whereupon  the  latter  turned 
back  and  sacked  the  village  —  terrible  slaughter, 
as  the  inhabitants  defended  themselves  with  the 
fury  of  wild  beasts.  One  house  defended  by  a 
father  and  his  three  sons  —  the  latter  loaded  while 
he  fired  —  upwards  of  twenty  French  soldiers 
killed  —  two  (of)  the  sons  slain.  The  French  at 
length  succeeded  in  getting  upstairs,  where  the 
father  and  his  remaining  son  fought  until  they  were 
cut  to  pieces.  The  monk  in  the  diligence  said  he 
was  in  the  village  the  day  after  the  battle,  being 

89 


sent  there  to  comfort  some  and  encourage  others. 
The  houses  still  burning  —  many  of  the  inhabitants 
had  perished  in  the  flames. 

At  eight  o'clock  arrive  at  Villafranca  —  good 
posada  kept  by  an  Italian  —  good  supper,  good 
room  and  good  bed,  but  only  enjoyed  the  latter 
about  an  hour,  being  obliged  to  start  about  two 
o'clock.  Row  in  the  posada,  by  a  thin,  ailing  man 
quarrelling  with  landlord  and  servant,  who  had 
refused  him  chocolate  because  he  had  not  taken 
supper.  Mine  uncle  and  aunt  in  the  coupe*  who  bilk 
all  the  inns  and  travel  cheap  —  Franciscan  monk 
sleeps  in  the  diligence. 

August  14th.  —  Friday.  Travelling  half-past 
twelve  —  fine  ride  by  moonlight  —  magnificent  pass 
over  a  mountain.  The  road  broad  and  excellent 
but  without  parapets  and  winding  and  passing 
zigzag  down  vast  declivities  among  awful  cliffs  and 
ravines  —  grand  sight  —  seven  wild,  mettlesome 
mules  scouring  down  the  road  along  the  huge, 
jingling  diligence,  two  or  three  wild-looking  fellows 
scampering  beside  them,  banging  with  sticks  and 
lashes  and  whooping  and  hallowing  like  Indians. 
Arrive  at  Barcelona  about  half-past  six  —  fine  en 
trance  —  great  bustle  —  peasants  trooping  to  town 
with  country  produce.  Put  up  at  the  Posada  de 
los  Quatres  Naciones  —  took  a  warm  bath  —  ex 
cellent  baths,  well  tiled.  Call  on  Mr.  Wm.  Sterling, 
American  Consul  —  find  him  living  at  the  top  of  a 
high  house,  but  in  pleasant  apartments  looking  to 
the  sea.  He  is  a  thin,  reddish  man,  with  carroty 
hair  —  plain  and  straightforward  in  conversation, 
helping  himself  at  the  conclusion  of  each  sentence 
with  that  comprehensive  salve  "and  so  forth." 
Returned  home  and  passed  the  day  in  the  house 

90 


until  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  Mr.  Ster 
ling  called,  and  we  walked  with  him  round  the 
ramparts.  Fine  esplanade  surrounding  the  city  — 
small  public  garden  with  fountains  —  good  alameda 
-  beautiful  view  over  the  valley  embraced  by  moun 
tains  and  entwined  by  hamlets,  country  seats  — 
several  fine  streets  in  Barcelona  —  French  have 
introduced  great  improvements  here  in  the  shops. 
Returned  home,  took  ices  and  retired  early,  being 
fatigued  by  travelling. 

August  15ih.  —  Saturday.  Assumption  Day  - 
a  holiday.  At  eleven  o'clock  walk  out  with  Mr. 
Sterling  —  visit  the  old  municipality  and  the  build 
ings  of  Gothic  architecture  —  low,  broad  arches  — 
visit  the  Cathedral.  Shrine  of  Saint  Olegarius,  for 
merly  a  bishop  —  was  admitted  behind  the  altar  and 
saw  his  body  preserved  in  a  glass  case  —  a  hideous 
relique  —  clothed  in  bishop's  robes  —  face  like 
a  mummy  —  nose  gone  —  teeth  grinning  —  black, 
withered  hands  covered  with  rings  and  precious 
stones.  When  the  French  had  possession  of  Barce 
lona  and  the  Spaniards  were  approaching  to  attack 
it,  there  was  a  rumour  throughout  the  city  that  the 
saint  had  raised  one  of  his  hands.  It  was  hailed  as 
a  sure  omen  of  deliverance  from  their  invaders. 
Gen[era]l  -  — ,*  an  Italian  general  who  commanded 
the  French  army,  went  to  the  Cathedral  with  a  de- 
tach[men]t  of  his  troops.  He  stationed  some  round 
the  building  and  entered  with  others.  Summoning 
the  canons,  etc.,  he  entered  the  shrine  of  the  saint 
and  found  that  his  hand  was  actually  elevated  in 


1  Louis  Gabriel  Suchet,  Due  d'Albufera  (1770-1826),  one  of 
Napoleon's  famous  marshals.  Irving  errs  in  calling  him  "an  Italian 
General,"  a  mistake  presumably  due  to  the  fact  that  Suchet  first 
won  distinction  in  the  campaigns  in  Italy. 

91 


a  menacing  manner.  ' '  Come,  come/7  said  the  shrewd 
Italian,  "this  will  never  do.  I  must  have  that  hand 
down."  So  saying  he  replaced  the  hand  upon  the 
breast.  "And  now,  Saint  -  — ,"  said  he,  "let  me 
assure  you  one  thing  —  if  you  raise  your  hand  again, 
I  will  not  only  have  you  hanged,  but  all  these  good 
people  of  the  Cathedral  shot!"  The  saint  never 
lifted  his  hand  afterwards. 

In  the  Cathedral,  under  the  grand  altar,  is  a 
crypt  in  which  is  the  shrine  and  body  of  the  St. 
Eulalia.1  A  queen  once  desired  to  look  into  the  urn. 
It  was  opened,  but  she  was  struck  blind.  She  never 
recovered  her  sight  until  she  made  a  present  to  the 
saint  of  a  veil  enriched  with  precious  stones  of  im 
mense  value,  which  is  yearly  carried  forth  in  pro 
cession.  There  is  a  tradition  that  it  will  finally  be 
stolen  from  the  church  by  a  band  of  reapers;  where 
fore,  once  a  year,  when  it  is  carried  forth,  the  gates 
of  the  town  are  shut. 

In  the  Cathedral  are  likewise  the  coffins  of  Bishop 
Berenguer  and  -  — ,  two  counts  of  Barcelona.  They 
are  covered  with  red  velvet  and  adorned  with  rich, 
gilded  escutcheons  and  are  supported  on  brackets 
against  the  side  wall  of  the  Cathedral.  In  the 
cloisters  a  curious  statue  in  relief  of  a  knight  in 
ancient  armour  with  the  Virgin  and  Child  appear 
ing  to  him.  Under  the  grand  organ  hangs  a  wooden 
head  of  a  man  with  goggle  eyes,  open  mouth,  and 
immense  beard.  Once  a  year,  upon  the  performance 
of  certain  music,  the  mouth  opens,  the  head  wags, 
and  a  stop  of  the  organ  imitates  loud,  incoherent 
sounds  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  congregation. 

Called  on  Mr.  Ryan,  who  acts  for  the  British 

1  Santa  Eulalia,  the  patron  saint  of  Barcelona,  —  the  Roman 
virgin  who  died  a  martyr's  death  during  the  reign  of  Diocletian. 

92 


Consul.  He  was  not  at  home,  but  returning  and 
finding  my  card,  came  to  the  hotel  —  remained  to 
dinner  with  us  —  afterwards  walked  out  with  him 
and  the  Amferican]  Consul  to  the  village  of  Gracia. 
Fine  walk  or  avenue  leads  to  it,  between  rows  of 
trees.  Take  ices  at  the  village,  which  was  crowded 
with  people  from  Barcelona.  Returning  to  town, 
met  Capt.  Brown  of  the  -  -  of  Boston  —  a  gen 
tlemanlike,  intelligent  man  —  had  much  conversa 
tion  with  him  —  procession  by  taper  light  —  fete 
of  Assumption  —  Cathedral  illuminated  —  took  ice 
in  a  cafe. 

Sunday,  16th.  —  Surprised  by  a  visit  from  Rich- 
[ar]d  Fred[eric]k  La  Saussaye,  a  young  Irish  officer 
in  the  Royal  Guards  whom  I  had  known  at  Madrid 
-accompany  him  to  his  quarters  to  look  at  his 
landscapes.  Dined  at  the  village  of  Gracia  in  the 
country  house  of  Mr.  Ryan  —  present,  Mr.  -  -  , 
a  captain  of  a  Scotch  ship  —  a  worthy,  dry  Scotch 
man  —  has  two  young  wild  boars  on  board  of  his 
ship  which,  at  my  suggestion,  he  promises  to  make 
a  present  to  Sir  Walter  Scott. 

Return  to  town  in  a  tartana  with  Mr.  Sneyd 
and  go  on  board  the  Cadmus  (Capt.  Brown) 
who  had  a  party  of  Spanish  ladies  and  gentlemen 
on  board  —  passed  the  evening  there  —  a  captain 
of  a  Boston  brig  present  -  returned  home  about 
nine  o'clock. 

Monday,  17th. — At  nine  o'clock  Mr.  Sterling 
calls  —  go  with  him  and  Mr.  Sneyd  to  the  Library 
of  the  University  —  to  the  library  of  a  convent 
containing  many  curious  works  —  to  the  archives 
of  Arragon  —  to  the  church  of  St.  Miguel  where 
there  is  a  curious  mosaic  pavement  of  Tritons, 
dolphins,  etc.,  it  having  been  a  Roman  temple  to 

93 


Neptune.  Mr.  Dedel,  the  Dutch  Minister,  calls  on 
me  —  arrived  the  day  before  yesterday  on  his  way 
to  Madrid.  We  dine  at  the  Count  d'Espagne's 
—  Capt.  Gen[era]l  of  the  province  —  present,  Mr. 
Dedel;  Mr.  Costello,  Spanish  Minister  just  from 
Constantinople,  and  his  lady;  Mr.  Sneyd;  Mr.  La 
Saussaye;  Mr.  Ryan;  the  Governor;  the  M[in- 
iste]r  of  Tal  Majund,  etc.,  etc.  Before  dinner 
had  conversation  with  the  Minister  from  Constanti 
nople  —  says  it  is  all  a  fable  that  the  Sultan  is  son 
of  a  French  woman,  or  has  been  in  France.  He  is 
thorough  Turk,  knows  no  other  language.  All  that 
he  does  proceeds  from  the  force  of  his  own  char 
acter  —  says  the  Turks  have  no  longer  belief  in 
fatalism  —  no  enthusiasm  —  no  patriotism. 

Capt.  Gen[era]l  very  affable,  talkative,  merry - 
in  one  of  his  gay  moods.  Has  the  arg[umen]t  and 
jokes  all  his  own  way.  He  is  a  lion  joking  in  his 
own  den.  After  dinner  Neapolitan  Consul  is  in 
troduced  by  the  Governor,  who  comes  to  read  a 
letter  he  has  rec[eive]d  announcing  the  certain  in 
tention  of  the  princess 1  of  Naples  to  come  to  Barce 
lona.  The  Consul2  had  been  in  possession  of  the 
news  for  several  days  but  pretended  ignorance  and 
played  off  the  Consul  in  high  style. 

Story  told  me  by  Dedel  of  interview  the  pre 
ceding  day,  when  deputation  from  Capuchian 
Convent  waited  on  the  Gen  [era]  1.  He  played  off 
the  old  Capuchian.  "Ah,  Padre/'  said  he,  "it  is 
many  years  since  I  have  inflicted  penance  on  my 
self  and  flagellated  myself." 

"If  your  Excellency  will  permit  me  to  administer 

1  This  was  the  beautiful  Neapolitan  princess,  Maria  Christina, 
who  at  this  time  was  on  her  way  to  Madrid  to  become  the  bride  of 
Ferdinand  VII. 

2  Irving  should  have  written  "governor." 

94 


it  to  you,"  said  the  old  monk  with  great  humility, 
"you  should  have  no  reason  to  complain." 

Count  d'Espane  *  discoursed  of  Picton.  He  was 
a  good  soldier,  but  a  very  rough  gentleman.  We 
prized  him  highly,  but  we  did  not  like  him. 

The  Count  d'Espane  is  lodged  in  the  Royal 
Palace.  We  dined  in  a  very  large  and  handsome 
salon  —  dinner  a  mixture  of  Spanish,  French  and 
English  cooking,  and  among  the  dishes  were  roast 
beef  and  plum-pudding.  The  Count  speaks  Eng 
lish  and  is  partial  to  the  English. 

Tuesday,  18th.  —  At  seven  o'clock  accompany 
Mr.  Dedel,  Mr.  Sneyd,  and  Mr.  Ryan  to  Fort  Mon- 
juich.  We  are  rec[eive]d  by  the  Governor,  who 
takes  [us]  over  the  whole  of  the  fortification.  Re 
turn  to  town  —  our  trunks  have  not  arrived,  nor 
any  letter  giving  news  of  them. 

Visited  by  a  young  man  named  George  C.  Rew 

—  dine  with  Mr.  Dedel  and  Sneyd.    Ev[enin]g  at 
Mr.  Ryan's  read'g  papers. 

Return  home  and  go  to  bed  early. 

August  19th.  —  Wednesday.  At  home  all  day 
with  Mr.  Sneyd,  who  is  ill  with  a  fever  —  read 
"Don  Esteban"  and  a  "Chronique  du  Temps  de 
Charles  IX"  —  very  good. 

Thursday,  20th.  —  Last  night  passed  in  Mr. 
Sneyd's  room.  This  morning  he  was  better.  Strolled 
about  the  town  —  left  card  at  the  Capt.  Gen[era]l['s] 

—  went  on  board  Capt.  Dobel's  vessel  and  saw  the 
two  wild  boars  —  passed  the  rest  of  the  day  and 
ev[enin]g  at  home. 

Friday,  21st.  —  Overjoyed  by  the  sight  of  our 
trunks  which  came  in  the  diligence  this  morning  - 
made   arrang[ement]s    for   starting   to-morrow   for 

1  Irving  misspells  the  name  here  —  Espagne. 
95 


Perpignan.  Walked  about  the  city  with  La  Saus- 
saye  —  called  in  ev[enin]g  and  left  card  for  Capt. 
Gen[era]l.  Sent  letter  to  G.  W.  Montgomery. 

Saturday,  '22d.  —  Leave  Barcelona  quarter  before 
three  in  the  morning  in  the  diligence  for  Perpignan. 
We  have  seats  in  the  coupe,  in  which  we  find  a 
young  Englishman  who  had  crossed  from  Mar 
seilles  to  Barcelona  and  from  thence  to  Valencia 
and  back.  Beautiful  journey  all  day  thro'  popu 
lous  and  well-cultivated  country  —  groves  —  woods 
—  plains  —  mountains  —  drive  along  sea-coast. 
Stop  at  —  -  and  dined  at  eleven  —  merry  doings 
in  the  company  —  fine-looking  waiting-maid.  In 
the  afternoon  pass  thro'  country  resembling  Eng 
land —  at  five  o'clock  arrive  at  Gerona.  Visit  the 
Cathedral  —  tomb  of  Ram6n  Berengar  —  Cabiza 
de  Estoba1  —  plain  old  Gothic  monument  —  lies  on 
a  sarcophagus  over  a  Gothic  door  —  contrast  with 
the  gilded  altars  in  gaudy,  modern  taste  —  fine 
windows  of  painted  glass  —  women  confessing  — 
whispers  in  twilight.  Fine  view  over  the  town  to 
distant  mountains  —  singular  cloisters  —  double 
row  of  Gothic  columns  —  fine  locust  trees  in  centre 
of  the  cloister  —  tomb  of  a  pilgrim  —  three  cockle 
shells  —  1,600  —  beautiful  view  from  the  little  gate 
of  the  cloisters  looking  down  upon  a  part  of  the 
town  —  a  bend  of  the  river  and  a  valley  bounded 
by  mountains. 

Supper  at  the  hotel  —  fine  French  lad  lately  from 
his  college  —  talks  of  France  —  all  in  reference  to 
his  college  —  peche  mortel  eating  viands  on  certain 
days  —  etc.,  etc. 

Sunday,  23d.  —  Leave  Gerona  at  half-past  two 

1  Probably  Cabeza  de  Escoba,  but  no  elucidation  has  been 
found. 

96 


in  the  morning  —  fine  drive  by  moonlight  along 
the  Ter.  The  morning's  road  lies  thro'  a  beautiful 
green,  wooded  country  variegated  with  villages, 
hamlets,  etc.,  and  the  Pyrenees  in  the  distance  — 
at  eight  o'clock  stop  to  breakfast  at  Figueras, 
situated  in  a  superb  plain  —  small  river  running 
thro'  it  —  the  Fortress  of  San  Fernando  built  by 
Fernando  VI  just  to  the  left  of  it. 

Women  with  stomachers  and  old-fashioned  velvet 
caps  that  come  down  over  their  foreheads  and  over 
each  ear  —  long  pendants  in  ears.  t  Fine  road  lead 
ing  up  the  Junquera  to  the  Spanish  custom-house. 
A  Peseta  saves  the  examination  of  our  luggage.  At 
Puente  Puerta  we  come  to  the  frontier  line.  The 
Fortress  of  Bellegarde  commands  it.  Our  baggage 
slightly  examined  and  sealed  —  proceed  —  pass 
down  zigzag  road  leading  round  precipices  —  our 
horses  going  furiously  —  find  that  the  drag  is  broken 
—  pass  thro'  part  of  Roussillon  —  see  Massdieu  to 
our  left,  formerly  a  house  belonging  to  the  Templars. 
At  five  o'clock  come  to  Perpignan  —  lively  ap 
pearance  —  walks  in  the  vicinity  —  clean  houses  — 
effect  of  seeing  so  many  women  with  caps  after 
being  accustomed  to  the  Spanish  heads. 

Impossible  to  get  passports  visaed  —  proceed 
without  it,  in  another  diligence  —  set  off  at  eight 
o'clock  —  travel  all  night  —  cold  —  damp. 

[The  note-book  is  then  turned  round,  and  at  the  other 
end  appear  the  following  notes,  giving  an  interesting 
account  of  smugglers.] 

Contrabandistas.1  Antonio,  in  walking  with  him 
on  our  approach  to  Orihuela,  gave  me  many  anec 
dotes  of  the  contrabandistas'  life.  He  has  been 
several  times  engaged  in  it  —  particularly  for  a 

1  Smugglers. 

97 


French  dealer  in  dry  goods  on  the  Yucatan.     He 
has  his  trabuco  (blunderbuss)  his  escopeta  (musket) 
his  sword  and  dagger  buried.     The  merchant  in 
Granada  has  his  partner  in  Gibraltar  —  the  latter 
advises  him  that  he  has  a  vessel  ready  loaded  for  a 
contraband  enterprise.     The  partner  in  Granada 
looks  out  for  some  of  the  most  valiant  and  ad 
venturous  of  the  contrabandistas,  who  are  generally 
young  men.    The  vessel  is  to  make  a  certain  part 
of  the  coast  on  a  certain  night  and  there  to  await  a, 
concerted  signal.     The  contrabandistas  sally  forth 
secretly,   individually   and  in  different   directions, 
having  their  appointed  place  of  assemblage.   They  are 
paid  one  pound  per  day,  food  and  wine  and  tobacco 
in  abundance.     If  they  are  to  smuggle  tobacco,  it 
is  double,  as  that,  if  detected,  sends  a  man  to  the 
presidio.1    One  man  of  perfect  confidence  is  sent  to 
direct  the  whole  and  to  carry  the  purse  for  all  ex 
penses,   which  are  often  enormous.     On  the  ap 
pointed  night  they  assemble  in  the  mountain,  near 
the  specified  part  of  the  coast  —  sometimes  to  the 
number  of  eighty.    One  who  is  to  make  the  signal 
goes  with  a  companion  or  two  to  the  appointed 
place  —  some    promontory    or    remarkable    rock. 
The  signal  is  sometimes  by  suddenly  displaying  a 
lanthern  and  then  covering  it  with  his  cloak,  re 
peating  it  three  times;  sometimes  by  striking  fire 
with  flint  and  steel;  sometimes  by  waving  a  torch. 
When  the  vessel  replies  and  all  is  ready  to  disem 
bark  the  cargo  the  signal  maker  returns  to  his 
companions.    They  descend  to  the  shore,  the  vessel 
draws  within  cannon  shot  to  protect  them  in  case 
they   are   attacked   by   the    custom-house   troops. 
The  goods  are  landed  in  boats  strongly  manned  and 

1  Garrison,  fort. 

98 


armed.  They  are  loaded  on  mules  and  horses  in 
the  course  of  ah  hour  and  transported  to  the  moun 
tains.  The  contrabandistas  travel  by  day  by  lonely 
and  rugged  ways  and  at  night  descend  into  the 
main  roads.  They  have  spies  in  all  directions  who 
come  to  them  at  different  points  and  tell  them  the 
custom-house  troops  are  in  such  a  place  awaiting 
you,  upon  which  they  fall  back  and  take  another 
route.  The  custom-house  has  likewise  its  spies  to 
tell  when  the  contrabandistas  are  out  and  in  what 
direction.  As  the  contrabandistas  traverse  the  moun 
tains  one  of  the  ablest  and  best-spoken  descends 
into  the  villages  where  there  are  corps  of  guards 
and  bribes  the  leaders. 

The  last  time  Antonio  was  out  they  were  many 
days  conveying  their  loads  from  Malaga  to  Granada 
—  sometimes  making  but  a  league  a  day,  as  the 
guards  had  notices  that  the  contrabandistas  were  out, 
and  they  therefore  were  on  the  look-out  for  them. 

If  attacked,  they  fire  from  their  horses  and  fight 
flying;  if  in  danger  of  being  overtaken,  they  cut  loose 
their  cargoes;  if  there  is  no  escape,  they  form  a  square 
with  then*  horses  and  fire  from  within.  Antonio 
has  had  command  of  a  troop  and  has  had  to  throw 
himself  in  the  centre  of  them  to  keep  up  their  cour 
age  and  make  them  fire  briskly. 

He  was  once  surprised  with  his  party  early  in 
the  morning  and  the  guards  got  possession  of  their 
horses,  loads,  weapons,  etc.  —  thirty-five  horses. 
He  and  his  men  escaped  to  the  mountains  —  he 
was  in  Velez  Malaga  when  he  heard  that  the  guards 
were  in  the  posada  of  a  village  with  all  the  spoil. 
The  village  was  in  the  contraband  interest  —  the 
very  curate  dabbled  in  contraband.  Antonio  con 
cocted  his  plan.  He  applied  to  six  realistas  and  got 

99 


them  to  go  to  the  village  and  apply  for  night's 
lodging  and  then  to  put  their  muskets,  bayonets, 
etc.,  in  one  corner  together,  near  those  of  guard. 
He  promised  them  an  ounce  each.  He  then  got 
together  some  of  his  men  with  cloaks  and  others  with 
realista  uniforms.  They  came  to  the  venta,  applied 
for  accommodations,  and  while  the  leader  was 
talking  the  rest  slipped  in.  They  threw  themselves 
upon  the  arms,  seized  them  all,  presented  a  blun 
derbuss  at  the  head  of  the  commander  of  the  guards 
threatening  his  life  if  he  offered  to  resist.  Some  led 
forth  the  horses  and  mules  and  loaded  them,  others 
took  the  locks  off  of  all  the  guns  of  the  guards, 
realistas,  etc.,  but  slyly  returned  them  to  the  latter 
with  the  stipulated  money.  They  then  set  off 
merrily  on  the  main  road,  satisfied  that  there  was 
no  ronda1  to  molest  them. 

The  contrabandists  of  tobacco  are  generally  in 
dividuals  who  own  a  good  horse  and  do  it  on  their 
own  account  and  risk.  The  cost  and  risk  are  too 
great  for  it  to  be  carried  on  by  large  speculators. 

1  Round  of  soldiers. 


100 


I    I 

•y^xgSTTl 


.,       '.-*  •?#!->•* 

*S*i ~1'V--        V-/ 

,.,V-      ..  '"^-'  / 


r-"1 


VIEW  OF  BUILDINGS  IN  CINCINNATI 

From  the  original  pencil  drawing  made  by  Washington  Irving  on  September 
3,  1832,  and  now  for  the  first  time  reproduced.  Very  rare,  as  probably  Irying's 
only  extant  drawing  having  to  do  with  an  American  city.  It  is  interesting  to 
note  how  picturesque  a  building  Irving  characteristically  discovered. 


THE  TOUR  THROUGH  THE 
WEST 

CONSISTING  OF  FIVE  NOTE-BOOKS 

[On  the  first  page  of  the  volume  is  a  pencil  sketch  of 
a  large  house  with  balconies  and  the  surrounding  lower 
buildings.  It  is  dated  September  3d.] 1 

September  3d,  1832.  —  Monday.  Left  Cincinnati 
at  five  o'clock  in  the  steam-boat  Messenger,  for 
Louisville  —  thunder-showers,  after  which  a  re 
markably  clear  tract  in  the  west  —  moonlight  night 
—  mist  on  river  —  passenger  on  board  wounded 
with  slash  in  the  face. 

At  Cincinnati  saw  Mr.  Wood,  with  whom  I  once 
travelled  in  Rhode  Isl[an]d. 

September  4th.  —  Tuesday.  Grey  morning  —  in 
the  night  steam-boat  stops  here  and  there  where 
lights  gleam  on  the  wooded  shore.  Stop  at  Madison 
in  Indiana  —  neat  little  place  built  of  brick. 

Old  negro  steward  —  very  black,  with  bright 
madras  handkerchief  on  head,  large  feet,  gold  ear 
rings,  shirt  collar  up  to  his  ears,  white  jacket  and 
trousers,  chequered  apron  to  his  armpits. 

Clearings  on  the  banks  of  river  —  solitary  log 
hut  with  corn  fields  among  the  forests  —  canoe  by 
the  shore. 

Arrive  at  Louisville  half-past  twelve  —  dine  at 

1  This  "Cincinnati  view"  is  Irving's  only  extant  drawing  relat 
ing  to  an  American  city,  and,  as  such,  is  a  decided  curiosity  to 
collectors  in  this  field.  Cincinnati  had  a  population  of  less  than 
25,000  at  the  time  of  the  census  of  1830. 

101 


Throgmorton.  Quay  of  city  presents  a  motley 
scene  —  huts  —  steam-boats  —  carriages  —  heaps  of 
iron  —  of  lead  —  leather,  etc. 

Take  places  on  board  the  steamer  Illinois 
from  Louisville  —  after  going  on  board  we  run 
ag[ain]st  post  —  break  some  of  the  machinery  and 
have  to  remain  all  night.  Called  in  ev[enin]g  on  the 
mayor,  Mr.  Burkland,  who  once  boarded  with  me 
at  Mrs.  Ryckman's1 —  Mr.  Smith,  etc.,  etc.  Take 
warm  bath. 

September  5th.  —  All  day  detained  by  arranging]  of 
machinery  —  after  dinner  drove  out  in  comp[an]y 
with  fellow-travellers  and  Capt.  Chambers  to 
Judge  Ormsby's —  poplar  thirteen  feet  diameter  — 
ruin  of  tree  forty-five  feet  round  root  —  entrance, 
straggling  road  thro'  butternuts  —  grape  vines. 

A  wild  stream  running  across  the  land  —  old  negro 
and  dogs  —  gateway  built  in  stone  —  Swiss  barn. 

Wooden  house  among  trees  flanked  by  negro 
houses  —  negroes  of  all  ages. 

On  our  approach  a  little  negro  head  seen  at  one 
of  the  windows  of  hut  opposite  —  few  chairs  — 
brass  andirons  —  broken  hole  in  ceiling  over  fire 
place  and  old  litter  of  all  kinds.  Bugle  sound  to  call 
Mr.  Ormsby  —  shy  figure  of  negress  and  white 
children  stealing  about  house. 

Little,  well-dressed  negro  girl  brings  in  salver  of 
peaches  —  fat  negro  wenches  drying  apples  and 
peaches  on  board  under  trees  —  wild  gorse,  flowers, 
etc.,  about  house.  In  neighbouring  field  negro  boys 
exercising  race-horses.  Flower  garden  —  iron  gate 
on  cotton-wood  stanchions  —  flowers  and  fruits  of 
various  kinds. 

1  At  16  Broadway,  New  York  City,  where  Irving  and  Henry 
Brevoort  took  rooms  together  in  1811. 

102 


September  6th.  —  Start  at  nine  o'clock  —  get  to 
canal  —  machinery  deranged  —  get  there  about 
three. 

Ev[enin]g  scene  on  Ohio  —  steam-boat  aground 
with  two  flats  each  side  of  her  —  we  take  part  of 
cargo  on  board  —  moonlight  —  light  of  fires  — 
chant  and  chorus  of  negro  boatmen  —  men  stroll 
ing  about  docks  with  cigars  —  negroes  dancing 
before  furnaces  —  glassy  surface  of  river  —  un 
dulations  made  by  boat  —  wavering  light  of  moon 
and  stars  —  silent,  primeval  forest  sleeping  in  sun 
shine  —  on  each  side  still  forest  —  forest  —  forest. 

Old  negro  steward  scolding  young  negro  for  lying 
—  he  aims  at  a  monopoly. 

September  7th.  —  Friday.  At  five  o'clock  morn'g 
stop  to  take  on  wood  and  wait  till  fog  rises  —  neat 
log  hut  —  woman  and  children  —  the  latter  half- 
civilized  and  ignorant  —  abundance  round  the  house 
-  cattle,  hogs,  poultry,  corn,  forest,  etc.  —  see 
patch  of  cotton-plant  in  blossom. 

Nine    o'clock  —  river    glassy  —  golden    sunshine 
on  forests  —  rude  ark  rowed  by  one  man  —  roofed 
-with  chimney,   etc.     Ducks  in  couples  on  the 
river  —  cloudless  sky  —  mellow  weather  —  passen 
gers  on  board.    Black  Hawk  —  a  young  river  dandy 
—  green  merino  short  coat  —  domestic  cloth  trou 
sers  —  low-crowned,    broad-brimmed   white   hat  - 
plays  cards  with  a  kindred  genius.    All  serenity  - 
a  Quakeress  —  the  Princess  Hullabulloo. 1 

September  8th.  —  Saturday.  Detained  from  ten 
last  night  till  seven  this  morn'g  by  fog  —  an  intelli 
gent  man  comes  on  board  —  gives  us  ac[count]  of 
his  farming. 

Nine   o'clock  —  serene,    sunny   mornin'g  —  clear 

1  Presumably  the  ironical  nickname  of  the  quiet  Quakeress. 

103 


reflection  of  objects  —  small  flock   of  wild   ducks 
doubled  on  the  stream  —  bland  atmosphere. 

Pass  Diamond  Island  —  well  wooded.  Near 
Wabash  —  horses  ranging  along  sandy  shore  — 
long  glassy  reach  of  river  —  smoke  rising  on  sunny 
shore.  Stop  for  wood  near  Wabash  on  Virginia 
side  —  negro  woman  in  log  hut  —  who  cooks  for 
the  men  who  get  wood  —  a  cheerful,  contented 
being  —  plenty  to  eat  and  drink  —  good  whistling 
—  no  one  to  worry  or  trouble  her  —  does  not  think 
she'll  marry  again.  Mr.  Ellsworth1  asked  about 
her  children,  but  the  tears  started  into  her  eyes  — 
she  got  up  —  crossed  the  hut  —  "I  am  not  allowed 
to  live  with  them  —  they  are  up  at  the  plantation." 
Pourtales2  killed  a  raccoon  in  the  woods  adjacent. 

Half-past  one  pass  mouth  of  the  Wabash  —  farm 
on  left  bank  opposite  the  mouth  a  wooded  island  - 
Wabash  Island. 

Wabash  enters  peacefully  into  the  peaceful  river 

-  water  clear,  greenish-blue  —  Ohio  yellow.     Men 
on  sand-bar  with  a  seine  sack. 

Aground  near  natives'  house  —  slow  boat  on  the 
Illinois  shore  with  flag  —  groups  assembled  there  — 
rifle  shooting  —  horse  race  along  shore  —  negro 
laugh  —  sunset  —  party  breaks  up  —  some  in  boat 
across  glassy  river  singing  ballad  —  others  on 
horseback  through  the  woods  —  some  on  foot  — 
some  loiter  on  the  shore  —  beautiful,  clear  ev[e- 
nin]g  sky  —  moon  nearly  full  —  rising  over  the  Vir 
ginia  shore  above  tufted  forests  —  night  hawks. 
Gross  plenty  that  prevails  throughout  the  country 

-  in   hotels,    steam-boats,   etc.  —  meats,    poultry, 

1  Henry  Leavitt  Ellsworth  (1791-1856),  Resident  Commissioner 
among  the  Indian  tribes. 

2  Pourtales  and  Charles  Joseph  Latrobe,  the  English  traveller 
(1801-1875),  accompanied  Irving  on  his  Western  trip. 

104 


vegetables,  excellent  bread,  pies,  puddings  —  food 
seems  to  be  wasted  —  as  if  of  no  value. 

Passengers  in  steam-boat  from  every  part  of 
Union  —  merch[an]t  from  N.  York  —  smug,  dapper, 
calculating  Yankee  —  reckless,  boastful  Virginian 

—  Black  Hawk  from  Kentucky  —  a  Swiss  count. 
September  9th.  —  Sunday.    Still  aground  —  go  to 

shore  —  log  house  with  corn  field  in  wood  —  man 
and  his  wife  from  Philadelphia  County  —  good- 
looking  man  and  woman  —  children  decently  clad 

—  been  here  fifteen  years  —  if  it  were  to  be  done 
over  would  not  come  here  —  no  means  of  educat 
ing   his   children  —  wants   neighbours  —  people   in 
neighbourhood    rough    and    rude  —  some    live    by 
hunting,   poaching,    etc.  —  says   he   finds   a   great 
difference  in  himself  since  he  has  been  here  —  sons 
prefer  hunting  to  learning  —  pays  one  and  one  half 
dollfa]rs  an  acre  for  land  —  Indiana  corn  fifteen 
feet  high. 

Stop  at  log  house  on  the  shore  —  pretty,  delicate 
woman  from  near  Nashville,  Tennessee  —  wishes 
herself  back  —  no  church  in  neighbourhood  —  peo 
ple  rude.  If  there  comes  a  Quaker  the  rude  fellows 
pelt  him,  cut  his  horse  loose,  and  play  all  kinds  of 
tricks.  Her  husband  a  good-looking  young  man  — 
has  lease  for  four  years,  after  which  will  return  to 
Tennessee. 

The  fete  yesterday  was  shooting  for  merchandise 
and  a  pedlar's  bout  —  a  quarrel  occurred  and  fight 
ing. 

Enormous    sycamore  —  cotton-wood    trees,    etc. 

—  vines  —  white  cranes. 

Get  off  at  three  o'clock  —  see  land  at  Rock  Cave 

—  a  limestone  cavern  —  nine  o'clock  ev[enin]g  ar 
rive  at  mouth  of  Cumberland  River  —  land  pas- 

105 


sengers  —  get    aground    and    remain    aground    all 
night. 

September,  10th.  —  Monday  Eight  o'clock  still 
aground  —  shower  of  rain  —  procure  keel  boat 
from  Smithland  to  take  part  of  cargo  and  at  half- 
past  twelve  get  off  —  fat  old  fellow  in  flat  rowed  by 
negroes  —  with  cargo  of  flour  to  sell.  After  dinner 
stop  at  Paducah,  a  small  village  or  town  quite 
new  —  court  holding  in  piazza  of  post-office  - 
judge  in  linsey  corduroy  coat  and  trousers  —  deer 
skin  sandals  with  hat  on  —  seated  in  chair  lolling 
back  —  farmers  discussing  their  cause  with  hats  on. 
Meet  with  an  Irishman  who  has  been  out  six  years 
-  fifty-six  years  of  age  —  lets  me  know  immediately 
that  he  is  a  rich  emigrant  —  talks  of  his  neighbour 
Lord  Castlereagh,1  who  was  the  greatest  statesman 
in  Europe. 

Take  on  board  here  a  little  Frenchman  and  his 
wife  who  are  rolling  a  big  box  through  the  country 
like  a  pair  of  tumblers.  He  is  a  blacksmith  —  she 
kept  a  cafe*  in  Touraine  —  natives  of  Tours  —  be 
guiled  out  here  by  Frenchman,  the  same  Lucas2  who 
had  bought  land  in  Kentucky  and  represented  it  as 
a  paradise  —  from  turnpike  could  meet  diligence 
every  day  —  the  very  place  to  set  up  blacksmith 
shop  and  caf 6  —  tells  her  to  bring  all  the  linen  she 
could.  The  little  French  [man]  and  his  wife  packed 
up  all  their  worldly  effects  in  three  small  boxes, 
bundled  up  their  bed  and  embarked  —  landed  at 
New  Orleans  —  good  opportunity  presented  to  fix 
themselves,  but  rec[eive]d  letter  from  their  friend 
pressing  them  to  come  on  —  embarked  in  steam-boat 

1  Robert   Stewart,    Viscount   Castlereagh,    second   Marquis   of 
Londonderry,  born  1769,  committed  suicide  1822. 

2  Frederick  Lucas,   one  of  Napoleon's  soldiers,  who  came  to 
America  after  Waterloo,  finally  settling  in  the  West. 

106 


-  arrived  at  the  promised  land  and  found  it  a 
wilderness  covered  with  trees  —  the  fine  roads  were 
tracks  thro'  forest  —  the  diligence  a  stage  waggon 
that  plied  two  months  in  year  when  there  was  no 
steam-boat.  They  re-embark  to  return  to  New 
Orleans. 

A  little  Canadian  who  had  been  passenger  on  our 
boat  hitherto  was  making  arrangement  with  cap 
tain  for  them  and  wanted  to  know  if  no  one  on  board 
spoke  French.  I  offered  my  services. 

Eight  at  night  —  arrive  at  Caledonia  —  at  the 
point  of  confluence  of  Mississippi  and  Ohio  —  land 
part  of  cargo.  Little  Frenchman  and  wife  go  ashore 

—  I  speak  to  the  landlord  for  them  and  put  them 
under  care  of  a  passenger  —  rolled  their  big  box  up 
bank  —  carried  bedding  up  to  inn  —  little  French 
man  remained  on  bank  —  put   all    his    boxes  to 
gether  —  lit  fire  —  mounted  guard  by  moonlight  - 
left  him  humming  tune  and  watching. 

At  one  o'clock  at  night  get  under  way  —  enter 
Mississippi  by  moonlight — (Mem:  This  ev[enin]g 
a  splendid  sunset  on  Ohio  —  full  moon  rose  from 
behind  forest,  attended  by  a  virgin  star). 

September  llth.  —  Tuesday.     On  the  Mississippi 

—  broad,    turbid   stream  —  sand-bars  —  low,    allu 
vial  shores  with  forests  —  chemin  de  forge  of  snags 

-streaming  files  of  ducks  and  geese.  Half-past 
eight  land  for  wood  on  Missouri  side  —  corn  field, 
where  crops  of  corn  have  been  raised  for  thirty- 
eight  years  successively,  without  manure  —  rich 
covering  —  sandy  soil  —  level  —  sound,  rich  corn 
twenty  rows  on  a  cob  —  country  still  lonely  — 
travellers  —  some  adventurers  embark  without 
money  —  are  put  ashore  at  wood  piles  —  remain 
there  till  next  boat  comes  along  —  hoist  a  hand- 

107 


kerchief  on  pole  —  taken  on  board  —  boat  under 
way  —  too  late  to  set  them  ashore  —  carry  them 
to  next  pile  —  so  they  work  their  way  from  wood 
pile  to  wood  pile. 

Woman  with  family  of  children  appeals  to  cap- 
t[ain]  —  occasionally  get  passage  for  nothing  —  a 
subscription  among  passengers.  Illinois  merch[an]t 
on  board  —  says  he  trusts  for  a  year  —  then  twenty- 
five  per  cent.  If  man  won't  pay,  he  hangs  about 
him  like  fever  and  ague,  whispering  to  him  until 
he  pays  —  does  not  lose  above  five  per  cent. 

Go  to  farmhouse  —  woman  spinning  —  young 
lad  sitting  idle  —  their  beds  in  room  —  full  of  negro 
children  —  fat  little  round-shaped  one  cries  —  the 
lad  tells  another  child  to  amuse  it  by  rolling  ball  on 
floor  —  have  lived  here  thirty- three  years  —  man 
says  he  never  struck  a  negro  since  he  was  a  boy  — 
would  not  sell  one  unless  the  negro  wished  to  go 
away. 

House  open  to  the  weather  —  pigs,  fowls,  corn, 
vegetables,  fruit  —  fine  well  of  water  —  neighbour 
ing  cypress  swamp  —  deer,  bears,  panthers,  wild 
cats  —  turkeys  in  abundance  —  no  snakes.  Wind 
now  —  pure,  soft  air.  Frenchman  the  same  Lucas 
who  came  to  Touraine  in  grand  way  one  winter 
and  has  not  a  negress. 

Pass  limestone  cliffs  looking  like  old  castle  towers 
-  light  foliage  below  —  wild  ducks  —  sand-bars 
—  after  sunset  stop  at  apple  orchard  —  Mr.  Kem- 
mel's  new  store  and  house  —  thriving  place  — 
children  ill  with  fever  —  wife  " first-rate  woman" 
educated  in  convent  about  eighteen  miles  off  — 
where  there  is  also  a  seminary.  She  is  from  Ken 
tucky. 

Saw  at  the  landing  a  negro  merchant  thirty-six 
108 


years  old  —  going  to  New  Orleans  with  forty  doz. 
fowles  —  had  canoe  or  boat  with  corn  to  feed  them 
—  goes  down  in  steam-boat  —  gets  passage  for 
nothing  from  some  —  buys  one  dollar  doz.  sells 
three  dollars  —  has  followed  the  business  twelve 
years  —  brings  back  nothing  but  money  —  pays 
his  master  fifty  dollars  a  year  —  lays  up  money  to 
buy  himself  free  —  buries  it  —  cannot  buy  himself 
till  next  year  —  has  wife  and  children  but  cannot 
buy  them  —  means  to  go  far  where  he  can  make 
most  money,  but  means  to  see  his  wife  and  children 
occasionally  and  take  care  of  them. 

The  lady  of  the  house  says  that  there  are  dif 
ferent  meetings  here  —  Catholic,  Presbyterian, 
Methodist,  etc. 

Beautiful  moonrise  on  Illinois  —  fire  of  wood 
man  at  front  of  island  —  red-yellow  moon  —  silver 
star  —  calm,  cobalt-green  sky  reflected  in  river  — 
here  and  there  at  distances  a  solitary  light  twinkles 
down  from  some  big  house  among  the  trees. 

Moon  regent  of  lakes  and  woods. 

September  12th.  —  Wednesday.  Fog  comes  in 
about  half-past  four  —  stop  at  wood  yard  a  few  miles 
above  Kaskaskia  River  —  visit  log  house  —  people 
from  Louisiana  —  discouraged  at  the  coldness  of 
climate  here  —  soil  abundant  —  game  plenty  - 
hunt  turkeys  by  moonlight  —  the  settlers  —  mother 
anxious  to  return  to  Louisiana.  Ste.  Gene  vie  ve 
fine  level  with  range  of  hills  behind  it  to  the 
north  —  one  of  the  oldest  French  settlements  — 
people  live  in  the  village  where  the  houses  are 
private  property  —  20,000  acres  in  front  in  con> 
mon  —  each  one  has  a  right  to  cultivate  a  portion 
for  his  own  use  —  strangers  apt  to  marry  the  Ste. 
Genevieve  girls  to  get  the  right  —  college  on  hill 

109 


back  of  the  town  —  above  the  settlement  pretty 
openings  and  views  as  through  side  scenes  of  a 
theatre  —  low  banks  of  cotton  trees  —  willows,  etc. 

At  Ste.  Gene  vie  ve  tall  man  comes  on  board  with 
saddle-bags,  steel  traps,  bundle  —  conducted  by 
man  in  blanket  coat  and  moccasins  —  turns  out  to 
be  Col.  Monard,  who  accompanied  Atwater1  on  the 
Indian  expedition. 

Herculaneum  —  store  —  shot  tower  on  brink  of 
limestone  precipice  —  beautiful  precipice  of  lime 
stone  like  towers  of  ruined  castles,  with  many- 
tinted  Virginia  creeper  hanging  about  the  cold  grey. 
Land  on  island  —  immense  cotton-wood  trees  — 
Uncle  Sam's  land,  with  poachers  cutting  and  selling 
wood. 

Ev[enin]g,  nine  o'clock  —  crash!  A  steam-boat, 
the  Yellowstone,  coming  down  the  stream  at  the 
rate  of  fifteen  miles  an  hour  runs  on  us  and  staves  in 
the  upper  works  of  our  side  —  the  wheel  box  — 
general  alarm  —  some  think  the  boat  sinking  — 
Kentucky  lady  threw  herself  in  her  husband's 
arms  —  alarm  subsides  —  make  for  land  to  repair 
damages  and  mend  wheel  —  speech  of  black  fire 
man  :  "  They  have  torn  the  d—  -  b all  to  salad." 

Arrive  at  St.  Louis  about  eleven  —  sleep  on 
board. 

September  13th.  —  Thursday.  St.  Louis  —  mix 
ture  of  French  and  American  character  —  French 
billiard  room  —  market-place  where  some  are  speak 
ing  French,  some  English  —  put  up  at  Union  Hotel 
—  see  Mr.  Chouteau2  ptre  et  fils  —  Dr.  O'Dwyer  — 
Judge  Peck  —  Mr.  Bates. 

1  Caleb  Atwater  (1778-1867),  Indian  Commissioner  under  Presi 
dent  Jackson. 

2  Pierre  Chouteau  (1749-1849),  the  pioneer.    He  and  his  elder 
brother,  Auguste,  were  the  founders  of  St.  Louis. 

110 


Drive  out  to  Gov.  Clark V  —  cross  prairie  — 
flowering  and  fragrant  shrubs  —  the  Governor's] 
farm  —  small  cottage  —  orchard  bending  and  break 
ing  with  loads  of  fruit  —  negroes  with  tables  under 
trees  preparing  meal  —  fine  sitting-room  in  open 
air  —  little  negroes  whispering  and  laughing  — 
civil  negro  major-domo  who  asks  to  take  horses 
out  —  invites  me  to  walk  in  the  orchard  and  spreads 
table  with  additional  cover  —  sitting-room  —  rifle 
and  game  bag,  etc.,  in  corners  —  Indian  calumet 
over  fireplace  —  remains  of  fire  on  hearth,  showing 
that  morn'g  has  been  cool  —  lovely  day  —  golden 
sunshine  —  transparent  atmosphere  —  pure  breeze. 

Fine  nut  trees,  peach  trees,  grape  vines,  etc.,  etc., 
about  the  house  —  look  out  over  rich,  level  plain  or 
prairie — green  near  at  hand — blue  line  at  the  horizon 

—  universal  chirp  and  spinning  of  insects  —  fertility 
of  country  —  grove  of  walnuts  in  the  rear  of  the 
house  —  beehives  —  deer  cote  —  canoe  —  Gen[era]l 
arrives  on  horseback  with  dogs  —  guns.    His  grand 
son  on  a  calico  pony  hallowing  and  laughing - 
Gen[era]l  on  horseback  —  gun  on  his  shoulder  - 
cur  —  house  dog  —  bullying  setter. 

Gov.  Clark  fine,  healthy,  robust  man  —  tall- 
about  fifty  —  perhaps  more  —  his  hair,   originally 
light,  now  grey  —  falling  on  his  shoulders  —  frank 

—  intelligent  —  his  son  a  cadet  of  W.  P.  now  in  the 
army  —  aide-de-camp  to  Gen[era]l  Atkinson. 

Dinner  plentiful  —  good  —  hut  rustic  —  fried 
chicken,  bacon  and  grouse,  roast  beef,  baked  pota- 

1  William  Clark  (1770-1838),  of  a  famous  Revolutionary  family. 
He  is  best  remembered  as  the  military  director  of  Captain  Lewis's 
expedition  across  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  1807  he  was  appointed 
by  Congress  as  Brigadier-General  for  the  Territory  of  Upper 
Louisiana.  Thus  Irving  sometimes  calls  him  "General"  and  some 
times  "Governor." 

Ill 


toes,    tomatoes,    excellent    cakes,    bread,    butter, 
etc.,  etc. 

Gov.  C.  gives  much  excellent  information  con 
cerning  Indians. 

His  slaves  —  set  them  free  —  one  he  placed  at  a 
ferry  —  another  on  a  farm,  giving  him  land,  horses, 
etc.  —  a  third  he  gave  a  large  waggon  and  team  of 
six  horses  to  ply  between  Nashville  and  Richmond. 
They  all  repented  and  wanted  to  come  back. 

The  waggoner  was  York,  the  hero  of  the  Mis 
souri  expedition  and  adviser  of  the  Indians.  He 
could  not  get  up  early  enough  in  the  morn'g —  his 
horses  were  ill  kept  —  two  died  —  the  others  grew 
poor.  He  sold  them  and  was  cheated  —  entered 
into  service  —  fared  ill.  "Damn  this  freedom," 
said  York,  "I  have  never  had  a  happy  day  since  I 
got  it."  He  determined  to  go  back  to  his  old  master— 
set  off  for  St.  Louis,  but  was  taken  with  the  cholera  in 
Tennessee  and  died.  Some  of  the  traders  think 
they  have  met  traces  of  York's  crowd,  on  the 
Missouri. 

Returned  by  another  route  escorted  by  young 
Clark  —  ride  thro7  prairie  —  flowers  —  waggon  - 
huts,  etc.  —  pass  by  a  noble  farm  —  every  thing  in 
abundance  —  pass  by  a  circle  of  Indian  mounds  —  on 
one  of  them  Gen[era]l  Ashley  has  built  his  house  so 
as  to  have  the  summit  of  it  as  a  terrace  in  the  rear. 


St.  Louis  —  old  rackety  gambling  house  —  noise 
of  the  cue  and  the  billiard  ball  from  morning  till 
night  —  old  French  women  accosting  each  other 
in  the  street. 

September  Hlh.  —  Friday.  Drive  out  with  Judge 
Peck,  Judge's  uncle,  and  our  party  to  Fort  Jeffer- 

112 


son  to  see  Black  Hawk1  —  ride  thro'  open  country 

—  formerly  forest  —  drive  to  Gen[era]l  Atkinson's 
quarters. 

Black  Hawk  —  old  man  upwards  of  seventy  with 
aquiline  nose  —  finely  formed  head  —  organs  of 
benevolence  —  his  two  sons  —  oldest  a  fine-look 
ing  young  man  —  his  brother-in-law  the  prophet2 

—  the  little  Indian  stables. 

They  are  all  chained  arms  and  ankles  with  cannon, 
but  are  allowed  to  walk  about  escorted  by  soldier. 

Old  French  town  nicknamed  Vuide  Poche3  —  old 
French  settlers  retain  their  dress,  manners,  etc.  — 
cared  little  for  money  or  lands,  but  avaricious  about 
their  negroes.  Met  two  or  three  times  a  week  to 
dance  —  very  sober  and  temperate  tho'  gay- 
kept  aloof  from  Americans  but  begin  to  intermarry 
with  them. 

Black  Hawk  —  had  a  skin  of  a  black  hawk  in  his 
hand  and  fanned  himself  with  the  tail. 

[Turning  the  note-book  around  and  beginning  from 
the  other  end,  we  find  the  following  notes,  some  of  which 
are  jottings  from  Irving's  reading  in  connection  with 
his  Western  tour.] 

Cumberland  Mountains]  —  sunny,  enchanted 
mount[ain]s. 

On  some  spires  of  the  Cumberland  Mount [ain]s, 
called  the  Enchanted  Mount[ain]s,  are  marked  in 
the  solid  limestone  footsteps  of  men,  horses,  and 

1  This  famous  chief  of  the  Sac  and  Fox  tribes  had  surrendered 
on  August  27th,  1832,  after  many  battles  with  forces  of  the  United 
States.    He  was  taken  through  various  cities  before  being  confined, 
in  1833,  in  Fortress  Monroe.    Irving  thus  saw  the  old  Indian  warrior 
within  a  fortnight  after  his  capture. 

2  This  "prophet,"  White  Cloud,  was  the  chief  agent  in  the  Indian 
disturbances  of  that  period.    He  is  not  usually  set  down  as  Black 
Hawk's  brother-in-law. 

3  "Empty  Pocket."     "Vuide,"  old  spelling  of  "Vide." 

113 


other  animals,  as  fresh  as  tho'  recently  made,  and 
as  distinct  as  tho'  impressed  upon  clay  moisture. 
The  tracks  often  indicate  that  the  feet  which  made 
them  had  slidden,  as  would  be  the  case  in  descend 
ing  declivities  in  soft  clay.  They  are  precisely  of 
the  same  class  with  the  impress  of  two  human  feet 
found  in  a  block  of  solid  limestone,  quarried  on  the 
margin  of  the  Mississippi.  The  manner  in  which 
they  were  produced  is  utterly  inexplicable. 

Flint1  Essay,  Vol.  11,  "Tennessee." 
Screaming  of  the  jay  in  the  solitudes  of  the  woods 
and  mountains.  Pine  woods  —  solemn  sound  of 
the  wind  thro'  them  —  no  whispering  among  leaves. 
Few  evergreens  in  the  west  —  objected  [to]  by  Mrs. 
Trollope2  —  a  sign  of  futility.  The  cypress  grows  in 
deep  and  sickly  swamps  —  the  haunts  of  fevers, 
mosquitoes,  moccasin  snakes,  alligators,  and  all 
loathsome  and  poisonous  animals,  etc. 

It  loves  the  deepest,  most  gloomy  and  inaccessi 
ble  and  inundated  swamps,  and  south  of  33°  is 
generally  found  covered  with  the  sable  festoons  of 
long  moss,  hanging,  as  it  seems,  a  shrowd  of  mourn 
ing  wreaths  almost  to  the  ground.  It  flourishes 
best  where  water  covers  its  roots  for  half  the  year. 

Flint,  Vol.  1,  p.  62. 

Hunter's  ac[count]  of  himself  —  his  father's  log 
hut  solitary  on  margin  of  river,  surrounded  by  forest 

—  mode  of  living,   careless  —  plenty  —  shot  deer, 

1  Timothy  Flint    (1780-1840),   missionary  and    author,    whose 
"Geography  and  History  of  the  Mississippi  Valley"  did  much  to 
advance  the  development  of  that  region.     living's  quotations  are 
not  meticulously  accurate. 

2  Referring  (with  a  sense  of  humour)  to  the  English  novelist, 
Mrs.  Frances  Trollope's  famous  work  that  had  just  been  published 

—  the  "Domestic  Manners  of  the  Americans,"  a  work  in  which 
the  lady  objected  to  a  great  deal  on  this  continent  and,  as  a  result, 
was  herself  objected  to  by  most  Americans. 

114 


wild  turkey  —  children  half  wild  —  without  educa 
tion —  two  or  three  books  which  they  could  not 
read. 

Big  rivers  —  all  peaceful  and  gentle  —  Ohio  - 
little  rivers  noisy  and  unruly  —  invincible  strength 
of  big,  giant  rivers. 

Two  Kentuckians  quarrelling  —  one  says,  "Put 
down  that  rock  and  I'll  fight  you."  The  rock  was 
a  stone  as  big  as  an  apple. 

Double-barrel[le]d  gun  —  mighty  little  giving 
about  the  lock. 

Moon  —  handmaid,  a  virgin  star. 

Missouri  —  fifty  miles  above  confluence  of  Ohio 
and  Mississippi. 

Indian  corn  —  thirty-eight  years  successive  crops 
—  ground  rich  —  twenty  rows. 

Negro  driving  team  of  seven  oxen  in  Louisville 
exclaims  —  "Get  along,  you  fat,  money-making 
rascals." 

Negroes  —  some  prefer  hoeing  —  others  plough 
ing  —  others  driving  waggons  —  some  dislike  wag 
goning  because  they  have  to  take  care  of  the  cattle 
at  night  and  on  Sunday.  Merriest  people  in  these 
parts  —  if  you  hear  a  broad,  merry  laugh,  be  sure 
it  is  a  negro  —  politest  people  —  fine  gentlemen.1 

Evil  of  negroes  —  they  may  be  parted  from  their 
children  —  but  are  not  white  people  so,  by  school 
ing,  marriage,  business,  etc? 

Observation  of  French  trader  in  West  Indies  on 
shutting  up  country  house:  "If  I  could  go  home  and 
not  think  till  morning,  I  should  be  a  happy  man, 
but  this  thinking  will  kill  me." 

1  This  is  a  remarkable  phrase.  Because  of  their  good  humour  and 
their  good  manners,  the  courteous  Irving  speaks  of  the  negroes  as 
"fine  gentlemen." 

115 


Ice  spring  between  Niagara  and  Hamilton  — 
frozen  in  summer  —  thawed  in  winter. 

Illinois  —  famous  for  children  and  dogs  —  in 
house  with  nineteen  children  and  thirty-seven  dogs. 

Cherokees  and  Kickapoos  used  to  say  will  fight, 
fight,  fight,  until  we  are  all  dead  and  then  our  bones 
will  fight  together  —  but  they  are  now  neighbours 
and  friends  thro'  necessity. 

The  various  western  tribes  call  the  Delaware  their 
grandfather  and  mediator.  If  one  kills  another, 
a  friend,  relative  of  the  murderer,  hastens  to  the 
Delaware  who  interposes  and  prescribes  a  certain 
quantity  of  wampum  to  cover  the  deceased. 

Indians  never  quarrel  and  fight  when  sober  —  only 
when  in  liquor  —  and  then  lay  it  all  to  whisky. 
When  one  kills  another  he  considers  himself  doomed 
-  sometimes  mounts  his  horse  and  proclaims  it  - 
but  says,  "Come  and  take  me  who  can." 

September  26th.  —  Wednesday.  Independence. 
Arrived  at  the  Globe  Hotel  —  Mr.  Dodge,  a  former 
missionary,  among  the  Osages,  comes  in  a  covered 
waggon  with  his  son,  etc.  —  disagreed  with  the 
Indians  —  is  settled  near  the  White  Hairs - 
among  the  Osages  —  keeps  school  —  feathers  his 
nest.  The  Southern  Indians  more  shrewd  and  in 
telligent  than  the  Northern.  Mr.  McCoy  —  son  of 
missionary  —  employed  as  surveyor. 

September  27th.  —  Thursday.     This  morn'g  Mr. 
Ellsworth  and  Dr.  O'Dwyer  arrive  in  old,  flimsy 
carriage  with  two  horses  driven  by  a  tall  negro  - 
had  left  the   steam-boat   aground   and   come  by 
land. 

Preparation  —  packing  of  waggons  —  Gen[era]l 
Clark  —  clergymen  the  only  class  of  people  on  earth 
that  he  hates  —  thinks  we  ought  not  to  set  our 

116 


faces  against  Indians  stealing  horses  —  must  not 
shut  up  only  road  left  them  to  honour  and  pro 
motion. 

Waggons  set  off  at  half-[past]  two  o'clock.  — 
Mr.  Ellsworth  and  Mr.  Latrobe1  set  off  about  three 
with  Gen[era]l  Clark  for  Mr.  McCoy's  —  I  set  off 
at  three  with  Mr.  Chouteau,  Pourtales,  and  the 
D[octo]r. 

Lose  our  way  in  the  prairies2  —  after  a  while  get 
to  where  the  waggons  are  stationed  by  Mr.  Yates 

—  scene  at  Mr.  Yates'  —  log  hut  —  large  fire  — 
tell  stories  to  children. 

Camp  —  fire  —  meat  roasted  on  sticks  —  savory 

—  our  salon  of  trees  lighted  up  by  fire  —  sky  and 
stars    in    centre  —  bat   flitting    across  —  faces    of 
men  and  black  boy  roasting  meat  —  greyhound 
with  spectral  face  —  we  sit  on  bear  skins  —  the 
meat  put  on  spits  before  us  —  cut  it  off  with  knife 
and  eat  —  coffee  —  Mr.  Yates  comes  and  sits  with 
us  —  tall,   strong,  pleasant-faced  fellow  —  stretch 
a  tent  on  cords  —  spread  our  mats  and  sleep  —  Mr. 
Chouteau  sleeps  at  foot  of  tree  —  Dr.  O'Dwyer  in 
waggon  —  men  on  blankets  with  feet  to  fire. 

Friday,  28th.  — •  At  peep  of  day  fire  made  in  the 
camp  —  preparations  for  cooking  —  water  bro[ught] 
from  neighbouring  brook  —  dogs  prying  about 
for  food  —  showers  of  rain  —  mats,  etc.,  spread 
over  waggons  —  day  breaks  —  find  ourselves  in  a 
light  grove  on  the  edge  of  a  prairie. 

Horses  led  in  strings  to  water  —  man  riding 
one,  leading  other  —  whooping  to  hounds  who 
follow. 

1  When  this  English  traveller  published,  in  1835,  "The  Rambler 
in  North  America,"  he  dedicated  the  work  to  Washington  Irving. 

2  Throughout  his  manuscript,  Irving  spelled  this  word  "praries" 
and  "prarie." 

117 


Breakfast  like  supper  —  spits  placed  before  us  as 
we  sit  on  mats  and  cut  off  strips. 

Leave  at  quarter  to  eight  —  ride  along  ridge 
and  over  grassy  prairie  —  meet  people  going  to 
camp  meeting  —  encamp  at  twelve  beside  a  brook 
to  wait  for  Ellsworth  and  Latrobe  who  are  to  come 
in  by  McCoy's  trail.  A  couple  of  bee  hunters  ar 
rive  at  the  brook,  with  waggon  driven  by  four 
oxen  —  with  barrels,  etc.,  to  contain  honey  — 
going  to  Grand  River  about  two  days'  journey  from 
Independence  —  all  the  country  down  here  being 
hunted  out  —  bee  hunter  —  twenty-three  years  of 
age  —  plaid  upper  coat  —  tan  cloth  trousers  with 
deer  skin  tied  over  them  —  his  companion  lying 
in  waggon  with  rifle  —  prairie  hen  that  they  had 
shot. 

Midday  camp  —  men  dispersed  cutting  wood  — 
one  making  fire  —  blowing  up  spark  among  dry 
leaves  —  horses  turned  loose  —  some  bridled,  others 
free-rolling  on  grass  —  saddles  put  round  foot  of 
tree  —  dogs  scattered  about  nosing  and  prying  — 
Dr.  O'Dwyer  dragging  dry  branches  —  wind  rust 
ling  thro'  tree  tops  but  passing  over  the  hollow  in 
which  we  are  placed  —  dogs  lying  down  watching 
with  hungry  eye  all  the  cooking  operations. 

At  dinner  —  stories,  jokes,  etc.  —  after  dinner 
another  gang  of  bee  hunters  —  waggon  —  four 
oxen  —  two  saddle  horses  —  long  fellow  with  rifle 
-two  younger  ones  with  rifles  —  says  they  get 
thirty-seven  cents  gallon  for  honey  —  collect  100 
or  150  gal  [Ion]  s  —  go  for  amusement  as  much 
as  anything  else,  being  a  time  of  year  they  have 
little  to  do  —  shoot  deer,  elk,  etc.,  for  their 
food. 

In  the  ev[enin]g  Mr.  Ellsworth,  Mr.  Latrobe, 
118 


and  young  Mr.  McCoy  arrive  with  another  dear 
born  waggon1  —  encamp  for  the  night. 

Saturday,  29th.  —  Start  after  breakfast  —  Mr. 
Younger  who  was  to  have  driven  our  new  dear 
born  deserts  —  Mr.  Ellsworth  drives  —  road  winds 
along  a  ridge  —  with  prairie  sloping  down  into 
beautiful  copses. 

Stop  at  log  house  —  pretty  young  married 
woman  with  pretty  sister  and  fine  child.  Encamp 
at  midday  after  eighteen  miles  —  in  pine  grove  — 
repast  under  tree  —  preparations  of  guns  —  La- 
trobe  arranging  plants  —  dogs  lying  about  —  plan 
for  Antoine2  to  go  deer  hunting  while  we  journey 
this  afternoon  —  yelping  of  young  hounds  —  wind 
rushing  thro'  trees  —  fire  at  our  kitchen  at  foot  of 
gigantic  old  tree,  threatening  to  undermine  and 
bring  it  down  —  autumnal  tint  of  trees. 

Ev[enin]g  encampt  about  five  o'clock  on  a 
beautiful  plat  of  land  made  by  the  winding  of  a 
sluggish  brook  —  fine  oak  and  walnuts  —  herbage 
full  of  flowers  —  opposite  banks  of  brook  fine 
woods  —  Mr.  Latrobe  saw  two  stags  —  Antoine 
returns  without  game. 

Barking  of  dogs  at  wolves  prowling  round  the 
camp  —  hooting  of  owl  —  pond  nuts  like  fresh 
almonds  —  dined  buffalo  meat  —  rich. 

Sunday,  30th.  —  Morning,  rise  before  daybreak 

1  Webster's  Dictionary  defines  this,   "A  four-wheeled  carriage, 
with  curtained  sides." 

2  Irving  describes  this  French-Osage  half-breed  in  Chapter  III 
of  "A  Tour  on  the  Prairies."    "He  was  to  be  a  kind  of  Jack-of-all- 
work;  to  cook,  to  hunt,  and  to  take  care  of  the  horses;  but  he  had 
a  vehement  propensity  to  do  nothing,  being  one  of  the  worthless 
brood  engendered  and  brought  up  among  the  missions.    He  was, 
moreover,  a  little  spoiled  by  being  really  a  handsome  young  fellow, 
an  Adonis  of  the  frontier,  and  still  worse  by  fancying  himself  highly 
connected,  his  sister  being  concubine  to  an  opulent  white  trader!" 

119 


-  breakfast  by  light  of  fire  —  day  breaks  thro' 
forest. 

After  breakfast  set  off  with  Pourtales  on  horse 
back  ahead  of  the  rest  to  look  for  prairie  hens  — 
Mr.  Latrobe  precedes  us  on  foot. 

Scale  a  hill  —  limestone  rock  and  stones  full  of 
shells  and  miniature  basalt  like  Giant's  Causeway 

—  boundless  view  of  silent  prairies  —  distant  hill 
like  Pate*  de  Strasbourg.1    Overtake  Latrobe  twelve 
miles  off  by  a  brook  —  waggons  do  not  arrive  — 
wait   for   them  —  scene   on  knoll  —  lying   among 
prairie  grass  with  guns  —  dogs  —  game  —  horses 
grazing  by  us  —  one  and  the  other  go  alternately  as 
scouts  to  edge  of  distant  hill  to  look  out  for  waggons 

—  give  up  hopes  of  being  rejoined  and  resume  our 
route  —  Mr.    Latrobe    on    foot  —  Pourtales    and 
myself  on  horseback  —  fatiguing  ride  —  wide,  bare 
prairies  —  small  strips  of  woodland  —  twelve  miles 
further  on  come  on  a  clearing  in  wood  —  log  house 

—  Mr.  Fuller  of  East  Hadham  —  his  wife  daughter 
of  Dr.  -     — ,  of  Philadelphia  —  hospitable  recep 
tion  —  good  wife  busy  baking  cakes  —  gets  dinner 
for  us  —  countryman  arrives  who  brings  tidings 
from  the  camp  —  horses  had  strayed.     While  at 
dinner  Mr.  Ellsworth  arrives  —  then  Col.  Chouteau 
and  d[octo]r.    Take  leave  of  Mr.  Fuller,  who  re 
fuses  compensation  —  ride  with  Mr.   Latrobe  by 
moonlight  to  Harmony  Mission  —  arrive  at  Mr. 
Bright's  —  kind    reception  —  blazing    fire  —  half- 
breed  Indian  girl  who  waits  on  us  —  Mr.  Requa 
a  missionary. 

Quartered  at  night  with  Mr.  Jones,  missionary 
who  teaches  girls  —  several  Indian  girls  in  the 

1  This  has  reference  to  the  shape  of  the  famous  goose  liver  pdt£s 
made  in  Strassburg. 

120 


house  —  one  about  eleven  —  very  pretty  —  ev[e- 
nin]g  prayer  —  examination  of  children  in  chapter 
of  Bible  —  neat  log  house  well  furnished  —  forty 
children  at  Harmony  —  school  kept  by  Mr.  Jones 

—  Indian  children  good  at  writing,  ciphering,  and 
geography. 

October  1st.  —  Monday.    Dinner  at  Mr.  Austin's 

—  boys  at  table  on  one  side  —  girls  the  other  - 
comp[an]y  in  centre  —  rich  beef  —  beautiful  honey 

—  cakes  —  vegetables. 

Osage  River  —  clear  stream  —  willow  banks  - 
navigable  in  part  of  year  for  steam-boats  —  Har 
mony  about  500  miles  from  mouth. 

Leave  Harmony  at  three  o'clock  —  cavalcade  - 
four  waggons  —  horsemen  led  horses  —  we  hire  a 
half-breed   called  Broken   Hoof  —  Mr.   Chouteau 
hires   another  —  crossing   of   the   Osage   River  - 
group  of  Indians  on  a  knoll  looking  on. 

Camp  after  sunset  in  a  beautiful  grove  at  the 
foot  of  immense  trees  —  by  a  brook  opposite  a 
prairie  —  moonlight  —  owl  hoots  —  prairie  wolf 
howls  —  barking  of  dogs  —  bells  of  our  horses 
among  the  trees  —  supper  —  beef,  roast  ducks, 
and  prairie  hens  —  others  boiled.  Fine  effect  of 
half  moon  among  lofty  trees  —  fire  of  camp  with 
guides,  Indians  and  others  round  it  —  dogs  lying 
on  grass  —  waggons  —  tents  by  fire  light  —  groups 
of  attendants  lying  at  foot  of  trees  and  round  fires. 

Farm  in  neighbourhood  —  Mr.  Summer  —  river 

—  Little  Osage  —  Ugatagakuge  monsahn l  —  mean 
ing  " where  there  is  much  dogwood." 

1  These  and  other  Indian  words  have  been  transcribed  as  well 
as  Irving's  handwriting  and  the  transcriber's  ignorance  of  the 
Indian  tongues  quoted  would  permit.  In  view  of  the  fact  that 
Irving  himself  may  have  blundered  at  the  start,  and  of  the  slight 
importance  of  the  details  themselves,  it  has  not  seemed  necessary 

121 


October  2d.  —  Tuesday.  Cold  but  beautiful 
morn'g  —  revive  the  fires  —  dogs  creeping  round 
fire  and  into  tent  —  whipped  off  with  many  a  yelp 

—  sun  breaks  among  pine  trees  —  winding  stream 
near  by.     Yesterday  passed  place  of  old  Osage 
camp  near  branch  of  Osage  River  —  wild  plum 
trees  —  beautiful  prairie  —  river  where  they  fought 
the  —    -  into  the  stream,  and  killed  them  with 
knives  —  the    plain    deserted  —  over-grown    with 
sumach,  hazel-nut,  wild  plum  —  prairie  silent  and 
lifeless. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  see  a  prairie 
wolf  in  the  distance  —  half-breed  Indians  instantly 
on  the  qui  vive  —  mount  my  pony  (I  being  in  the 
waggon)  —  general  gallop  across  the  prairie  — 
Henry  Clay  the  greyhound  in  full  chase  —  Mr. 
Chouteau  sends  half-breed  boy  mounted  to  turn 
the  wolf,  but  Pour  tales  dashes  straight  forw[ar]d 
and  makes  the  wolf  keep  ahead  so  as  to  escape  — 
returning  we  start  a  deer,  which  after  a  run  couches 
in  a  hollow  and  we  lose  him. 

A  few  miles  further  we  see  another  prairie  wolf 
beside  a  ravine  near  the  road  —  all  set  off  in  chase 

—  Mr.    Chouteau   and   the    doctor   head   him  — 
come  to  a  bare,  burnt  patch  of  prairie  —  the  grey 
hound    gets    sight    of    him  —  fine    race  —  hound 
turns  him  —  manceuvers  and  fight  between  wolf 
and  hound  —  horsemen  come  up  with  [them]  and 
try  to  trample  on  him  —  fighting  retreat  of  wolf  — 
Pourtales   fires   one   barrel   of   his   gun  —  breaks 
wolf's  leg  —  we  surround  and  kill  him. 

Beautiful  sight  of  hunt.     Horsemen  galloping 

to  submit  the  passages  in  question  to  the  judgment  of  experts.  We 
may  add  that  some  little  investigation  of  this  first  Indian  phrase 
cited  by  Irving  leaves  us  as  dubious  of  his  competence  in  such 
matters,  as  we  are  certain  of  our  own  incompetence. 

122 


over  green  prairie  —  golden  sunshine  —  Antoine 
towards  the  conclusion  of  chase  leaves  his  waggon, 
mounts  his  stallion,  and  comes  thundering  along 
bringing  up  a  corps  de  secours  of  bull-dog,  cur,  etc. 
A  few  miles  further  on  we  pass  a  run  of  water  — 
here  Broken  Hoof  visits  cabin  of  his  mother  and 
determines  to  return  —  pay  him  off  —  just  then  a 
half-breed  (Joseph),  whom  Mr.  Chouteau  had  left 
word  to  follow  us,  arrives  and  takes  his  place.  He 
is  accomp[anie]d  by  an  old  Indian  —  tueur  du  vil 
lage  —  from  having,  with  a  party  he  commanded, 
surprised  and  massacred  a  whole  village  —  Indian 
with  his  bald  head  and  single  tuft  of  hair  —  strings 
of  beads  hanging  from  the  upper  part  of  his  ears  — 
his  shoulders  and  bust  bare  —  blanket  swathed 
round  his  body  —  leather  leggings  and  moccasins 

—  mounted   on  strong  black  horse  —  carries  his 
rifle  athwart. 

Encamp  and  dine  in  a  thicket  of  trees  —  then 
perform  journey  of  seventeen  miles  across  wide, 
naked  prairie  —  extensive  prospect  from  a  hill  - 
ridge  beyond  ridge  in  smoky  distance  —  Indian 
points  it  out  —  pass  Pawnee  Hill  where  five 
Pawnees  defended  themselves  ag[ain]st  large  party 
of  Osages  —  see  two  prairie  wolves  which  escape 

—  white  cloud  of  smoke  from  burning  prairie  — 
sun  enters  into  smoke  —  spur  on  to  light  fires  - 
limestone    country.     Wind    by    moonlight    down 
into  wood  —  pass  thro'  it  to  bank  of  brook  where 
we  make  fire  and,  where  joined  by  carriages  - 
encamp. 

Story  of  Antoine  and  the  two  kegs  of  powder  be 
hind  him  on  horse  with  which  he  dashed  thro' 
prairie  on  fire. 

Encamped  at  Pawnee  Creek  —  branch  of  Osage. 
123 


Old  Osage  Indian  —  killer  of  village  —  great 
warrior  —  chief  —  at  present  ambassador  to  pro 
cure  a  bag  of  nails. 

October  3d.  —  Wednesday.     Beautiful  morn'g  - 
breakfast  scene  —  men  round  pans  and  kettles  — 
groups  of  little  hounds  looking  on  —  growling  and 
snapping  of  large  dogs  —  now  and  then  yelping 
from  a  scourged  cur. 

At  daybreak  Indian  gets  up  —  mounts  his  horse 
and  away  —  Osages  never  eat  early  in  morning 
when  travelling  —  stop  about  ten  or  eleven  for 
that  purpose. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  meet  various 
parties  of  Osages,  men  and  women,  on  hunting  ex 
peditions  —  women  leading  horses  —  with  pack 
ages  —  skins  for  beds,  meat,  corn  or  papooses 
and  puppy  dogs  in  the  packages  —  lads  with  bows 
and  rifles  walking  —  fine,  erect  port  of  Osage  war 
riors  —  noble  attitudes  —  meet  Osage  interpreter 
-  with  wife  and  daughters  —  the  former  a  daugh 
ter  of  Chouteau.  Squaws  riding  with  umbrellas  - 
warm  day  —  wide,  treeless  prairie  —  trembling  with 
heat  —  columns  of  smoke  hanging  lazily  in  various 
directions  on  horizon  —  kindled  by  Indians  to  drive 
the  game  to  the  prairies.  Encamp  about  eleven  at 
clear  brook  —  party  of  Indians,  squaws  and  chil 
dren  encamp  by  us  —  squaws  cutting  wood  and 
dragging  great  branches  of  trees. 

Our  dinner,  surrounded  by  Indians  —  groups 
of  squaws  and  children  who  keep  somewhat  aloof. 

Ride  twelve  miles  after  dinner  to  Rev.  N. 
Dodge's  house  —  near  Osage  village  —  put  up  at 
the  house  —  comfortable  —  tea  furnished  by  Mrs. 
Dodge  —  young  Osage  couple  in  the  neighbour 
hood,  the  girl  well  educated  at  Harmony  Mission 

124 


—  the  young  man  but  slightly  educated  —  re 
cently  married  —  undertaking  farming  —  their  rela 
tives  come  to  see  them,  camp  before  the  door 
and  eat  them  out  of  house  and  home  —  young  man 
cannot  help  giving  away  provisions,  etc.,  to  his 
tribe.  When  we  visited  them  we  found  two  In 
dians  (man  and  wife)  lying  at  a  fire  kindled  before 
the  house. 

Indian  we  met  to-day  in  mourning  —  dirt  on  his 
face  —  does  not  eat  till  sunset.  The  dead  are 
painted  white  and  other  colours  when  buried. 

A  chief  lately  deceased  was  buried  sitting  up 
under  a  mound. 

We  spread  our  skin  beds  on  the  floor  of  room  in 
house  —  Antoine,  etc.  —  light  a  fire  —  cook  their 
supper  and  sleep  under  trees.  "Every  one  has  his 
caprice/ '  said  Antoine,  "for  my  part  I  think  it 
much  better  to  camp  here." 

Intense  curiosity  with  which  an  Indian  watches 
Dr.  O'Dwyer  while  he  shaves  —  beautiful,  clear 
river  by  Mr.  Dodge's. 

October  4th.  —  Thursday.  Leave  Mr.  Dodge's 
at  three  quarters  past  seven  provided  with  large 
family  loaf  of  bread  —  we  have  a  journey  of  thirty 
miles  to  make  over  open  prairie  before  we  can 
find  a  camping  place,  there  being  water  in  the  in 
terim  but  no  wood  —  pass  thro'  the  village  of  the 
White  Hair  (Osages)  —  monument  of  chief  who 
died  lately  —  mound  on  a  hill  surrounded  by  rail 
ing  —  three  poles  with  flags  —  trophies  —  a  scalp, 
scalping  knife,  etc.  He  had  killed  four  Pawnees. 
While  looking  at  it  an  Indian  approached  and 
stood  by  the  tomb  —  a  relation  of  the  deceased. 
After  we  had  rode  on  we  saw  him  standing  like  a 
statue  by  the  tomb.  Passed  over  vast  prairie  - 

125 


here  not  a  tree  or  shrub  was  to  be  seen  —  a  view 
like  that  of  the  ocean. 

Mr.  Chouteau  and  Pourtales  (who  had  left  us 
yesterday  at  the  dining  place  to  go  to  the  Agency) 
rejoined  us,  with  three  spare  horses.  About  three 
o'clock  arrived  at  a  grove  on  the  banks  of  stream 
and  encamp  —  place  called  La  Bete  —  wood  en 
tangled  with  rich  underwood  —  grape  vines  —  pea 
vines,  etc.  Fine  trees  —  flights  of  Perroquets  — 
called  La  Bete,  or  The  Beast,  because  the  Indians 
saw  a  great  and  terrible  animal  there,  the  like  of 
which  they  never  saw  before  or  since. 

Story  told  by  Col.  Chouteau  lying  at  the  foot 
of  a  tree. 

Wagrathka  e  abbe  —  creek  —  next  to  this  creek 
is  Nickanansor.  A  tribe  of  Indians  hunting  in  that 
creek  struck  their  tents  to  come  on  this  —  a  young 
man  who  had  been  to  St.  Louis  returned  to  the 
creek  and  came  to  the  encampment  —  found  it 
deserted  —  a  young  girl  alone  there  —  to  whom  he 
was  engaged  to  be  married  — "  Where  is  the 
camp?"  "It  is  struck.  They  are  gone  to  such  a 
place."  "And  what  are  you  doing  here?"  "Wait 
ing  for  you."  He  gave  her  his  bundle  and  walked 
ahead  according  to  Indian  custom  —  approaching 
the  camp  the  girl  sat  down  at  foot  of  a  tree  and 
said,  "I  will  wait  here.  It  is  not  proper  for  us  to 
return  together."  He  entered  the  town  —  told 
his  sister  to  go  after  the  girl  —  she  is  dead  —  died 
a  few  days  since.  His  relatives  surrounded  him 
weeping  and  confirmed  the  story.  He  returned 
with  them  to  the  tree.  The  girl  was  gone  —  the 
bundle  lay  there  —  the  young  man  fell  dead. 

A  little  girl  at  White  Hair  had  died  —  they 
buried  with  her  her  playthings  —  she  had  a 

126 


favourite  little  horse  —  they  killed  and  buried  her 
with  it. 

An  old  squaw  left  alone  when  her  party  had 
gone  hunting  prayed  the  Great  Spirit  to  make 
something  to  amuse  her  —  he  made  the  mosquito.1 

Pawnee  Boy.  At  Mr.  Chouteau's  agency  there 
is  a  Pawnee  boy  twelve  years  of  age  who  is  anxious 
to  run  away  and  return  to  his  own  people.  They 
fear  if  he  did  he  would  reveal  where  the  horses 
were  kept,  etc.,  and  all  the  secrets  of  this  land. 
He  has  a  sister  with  whom  he  is  always  plotting  in 
Pawnee  language.  Once,  when  seven  years  old, 
he  ran  away  with  horses,  but  was  retaken.  He  was 
told,  "If  you  run  away  again  we  will  send  twelve 
Osage  boys  with  bows  and  arrows  to  shoot  you.'7 
"Give  me,"  said  he,  "twelve  arrows  and  let  your 
boys  come  and  we'll  see  who  has  the  worst  of  it." 

Chattering  and  laughing  of  the  Frenchmen  - 
half-breeds  at  their  meat  —  Mr.  Chouteau  lying 
at  foot  of  tree  and  joining  in  —  screaming  of  flights 
of  parrots  —  snapping  and  quarrelling  of  dogs  - 
moonlight  vista  thro'   the  forest  —  distant  dewy 
tint  of  trees  —  hooting  of  screech-owl  —  Col.  Chou 
teau    remarks    superstition   of   Indians   when   an 
owl  is  heard  several  nights.    They  think  it  follows 
the  encampment  and  forebodes  the  death  of  one 
of  the  party. 

These  creeks  empty  into  the  Neosho. 

Friday,  5ih.  — Towards  morning  rain  and  thun 
der  —  holds    up     about    daybreak.      An    Indian 
visits    us  —  encamped    about    a    mile    distant  - 
attracted  by  the  tinkling  of  our  horse  bells  —  had 

1  A  rare  instance  of  Indian  sense  of  humour,  and  a  satisfying 
solution  of  the  problem  as  to  the  justification  for  the  existence  of 
the  mosquito. 

127 


been  hunting  yesterday  and  killed  two  small 
deer. 

After  a  while  he  departed  to  his  camp  —  from 
whence  three  Indians  came  and  brought  pieces  of 
fresh  venison.  Col.  Chouteau  made  them  presents 
of  tobacco. 

Leave  enc[a]mp[men]t  at  ten  —  ride  all  day 
over  wide,  monotonous  prairies  —  cry  given  of  a 
wolf  at  a  distance  —  saw  something  seated  on  a 
hill  —  all  hands  on  the  alert ;  flankers  sent  out  — 
turned  out  to  be  a  solitary  Indian  who  begged  for 
food  —  gave  him  biscuit  —  gave  us  the  disagree 
able  intelligence  that  all  the  Osages  had  departed 
some  time  since  from  Fort  Gibson,  on  their  buffalo 
hunt.  Showers  in  the  distance  —  lowering  sky  — 
ride  after  dark  across  gloomy  plain  —  descend 
into  thick  grove  and  encamp  for  the  night. 

Saturday,  6th.  —  Soft  morning  —  misty  —  beau 
tiful  forest  —  large  trees  intertwined  with  grape 
vines  and  clambering  vines  —  rich  verdure  — 
yesterday  saw  prickly  pears  —  sent  Joseph  the 
half-breed  on  foraging  party  among  the  groves  — 
brought  rich  store  of  pawpaws.  This  night  horses 
had  excellent  range  —  pea  vines  and  cane. 

[The  following  notes  were  made  by  Irving  at  the 
other  end  of  his  diary:] 

Race  of  dogs  in  the  Rocky  Mount[ain]s  supposed 
to  be  a  cross-breed  of  the  buffalo  and  wolf. 

Old  Father  Vail  addressed  the  Indians  on  the 
necessity  of  industry,  etc.,  to  happiness.  An  In 
dian  replied,  "Father,  I  don't  understand  this 
kind  of  happiness  you  talk  of.  You  tell  me  to  cut 
down  tree  —  to  lop  it  —  to  make  fence  —  to  plough 
-this  you  call  being  happy  —  I  no  like  such 
happiness.  When  I  go  to  St.  Louis  I  go  to  see 

128 


Chouteau  or  Clark  —  he  says  ' hello'  -  -  and  negro 
comes  in  with  great  plate  with  cake,  wine,  etc.  — 
he  say  'eat,  drink/  If  he  want  anything  else  he 
say  l  hello '  -  -  three  —  four  —  five,  six  negro  come 
in  and  do  what  he  want  —  that  I  call  happy  — 
he  no  plough  —  he  no  work  —  he  no  cut  wood." 

"Ah,  but  he  has  negroes  to  do  all  that." 

"Well,  father,  you  go  to  our  Great  Father1  —  tell 
him  to  find  me  one,  two,  three  negroes  to  cut  wood 
and  plough  for  me  and  I'll  be  willing  to  be  happy 
like  white  man  —  but  for  a  man  fifty  years  old  to 
have  to  plough,  etc.  —  him  too  old." 

An  agent  newly  arrived  —  was  preaching  up  as 
usual  about  their  being  civilised  and  happy  —  one 
old  Indian  affected  to  sleep,  then  waking  up  - 
"What,  father,  still  about  that  old  happiness? - 
don't  talk  of  that  any  more.    I'll  tell  you  what  I 
call  happy  —  to  have  my  gun  —  a  wide  range  — 
to  hunt  —  to  kill  buffalo  —  to  have  plenty  to  eat 
—  to  eat  and  drink  till  full  —  to  smoke  —  to  lie 
down  on  our  backs  —  beat  our  bosoms  and  sing." 

Juror  declines  to  be  empanelled  in  a  trial  of  an 
Indian  for  murder  —  he  pointed  to  a  scar  on  his 
head  —  "This  scar  I  rec[eive]d  when  two  brothers 
were  murdered  by  Indians  —  I  cannot  be  an  un 
prejudiced  arbiter  of  them." 

Place  of  old  Osage  camp  on  branch  of  Osage 
River  —  overgrown  with  bushes,  wild  plums,  etc. 

Backwoodsmen  go  ahead  to  tread  down  the 
nettles. 

Mr.  McCoy  —  missionary,  appointed  to  treat 
with  Cherokee  Indians.  A  Cherokee  was  at  Wash 
ington  when  he  was  there.  Mr.  McCoy  applied 

1  The  name  given  by  the  Indians  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States. 

129 


for  his  son  to  be  appointed  doctor  —  another,  sur 
veyor  —  another,  agent.  The  Cherokee  returned 
and  told  his  friends  this  man  is  not  for  God,  not 
for  us,  but  for  himself  —  he  wants  to  grasp  every 
thing.  They  would  not  make  a  treaty  with  him. 

Farmers  beyond  Independence,  the  frontier  town, 
seldom  come  to  the  village  —  they  are  content  to 
raise  food  enough  for  themselves  —  get  wild  honey 
to  sell  for  clothes,  etc.  —  lead  a  lazy  life  in  this 
easily  cultivated  and  prolific  country. 

Prairie  dogs  live  in  villages  —  owls  and  rattle 
snakes  live  with  them  —  some  say  the  latter  in 
habit  only  such  holes  as  the  dogs  have  deserted  in 
consequence  of  the  death  of  some  relation. 

Story  of  prairie  dog,  owl,  and  rattlesnake  who 
kept  house  together. 

Indians  at  Mr.  Dodge's  Mission  —  had  eighty 
acres  and  ploughed  and  sown  with  corn  for  them  — 
each  sent  his  horse,  hobbled,  into  his  part  of  the 
patch  —  but  as  there  were  no  divisions  the  whole 
was  nearly  eaten  up. 

Indians  had  near  200  head  of  cattle  —  oxen, 
cows,  calves,  etc.  When  the  warriors  went  to  the 
buffalo  hunt  they  left  old  men  to  guard  them  - 
after  several  days  the  old  men  called  a  council. 
"Our  brothers,"  said  he,  "are  by  this  time  in  the 
midst  of  the  buffaloes  and  have  meat  a  plenty.  It 
is  great  pity  that  while  they  revel  we  should  want. 
Suppose  we  have  a  chase  of  our  own."  So  said,  so 
done  —  they  killed  four  oxen  and  all  ate  till  they 
could  scarcely  crawl.  A  few  days  after  another 
council.  "Our  friends  must  be  still  among  the 
buffaloes  —  suppose  we  have  another  chase."  So 
said,  so  done,  and  the  200  head  of  cattle  melted 
away  before  these  domestic  hunters. 

130 


October  6th.  —  Left  encamp  [men]  t  this  morning 
and  rode  thro'  mist,  which  gradually  cleared  up  and 
showed  wide  prairie  —  with  distant  line  of  green 
wood  and  hills  that  looked  like  cultivated  country. 
It  seemed  as  if  we  could  distinguish  fields  of  grain, 
leaves,  partridges,  glades,  etc. 

Our  sportsmen  shot  two  turkeys  near  our  last 
night's  encamp  [men]  t  —  about  half-past  eleven  ar 
rived  at  Mr.  Requa's  establish  [men]  t  on  the  bank 
of  the  Neosho,  which  is  here  a  broad,  fine  stream, 
clear  and  with  a  gentle  current. 

Mrs.  Requa  from  Connecticut  (Fairfield)  —  fine- 
looking  woman  —  says  when  she  first  came  here 
they  had  no  house  —  slept  under  trees  —  was  in  fine 
health,  never  better  —  Indian  farms  —  old  Indian 
guard  left  at  home  to  take  care  of  house. 

Our  dinner,  four  steaks  of  venison  cut  from  veni 
son  ham. 

Leave  Requa' s  at  two  —  ride  over  prairies  twelve 
miles  until  we  come  in  sight  of  the  river  —  pleasant 
country  —  looks  like  park  land  —  well  where  Paw 
nees  used  to  hide  their  effects  when  going  hunting 
or  to  war  —  holes  still  to  be  seen  —  old  Osages  told 
Colonel  of  it  —  covey  of  prairie  hens  —  pigeons  - 
come  in  sight  of  Col[one]l's  house  —  white  log  house 
with  piazza,  surrounded  by  trees.  Come  to  beautiful, 
clear  river  —  group  of  Indian  nymphs  half -naked  on 
banks  —  with  horses  near  —  arrival  at  house  —  old 
negro  runs  to  open  gate  —  mouth  from  ear  to  ear  — 
group  of  Indians  round  tree  in  court-yard  —  roast 
ing  venison  —  horses  tethered  near  —  negroes  run  to 
shake  hand  and  take  horses  —  some  have  handker 
chief  across  head  —  half-breeds  —  squaws  —  negro 
girls  running  and  giggling  —  dogs  of  all  kinds  —  hens 
flying  and  cackling  —  wild  turkeys,  tamed  geese  - 

131 


piazza  with  buffalo  skin  thrown  over  railing  —  room 
with  guns  —  rifles. 

Supper,  venison  steaks,  roast  beef,  bread,  cakes, 
coffee  —  waited  on  by  half-breed  —  sister  of  Mr. 
Chouteau's  concubine  —  adjourn  to  another  room  — 
pass  thro'  open  hall  in  which  Indians  are  seated  on 
floor.  They  come  into  the  room  —  two  bring  in 
chairs  —  the  other  seats  himself  on  the  floor  with  his 
knees  to  his  chin  —  another  Indian  glares  in  at  the 
window.  House  formed  of  logs  —  a  room  at  each 
end  —  an  open  hall  with  staircase  in  the  centre - 
other  rooms  above  —  in  the  two  rooms  on  ground 
floor  two  beds  in  each  room  with  curtains  —  white 
washed  log  walls  —  tables  of  various  kinds  —  Indian 
ornaments,  etc. 

Half-breeds  loitering  about  the  house  —  dogs  and 
cats  of  all  kinds  strolling  about  the  hall  or  sleeping 
among  harness  at  one  end  of  the  piazza. 

In  these  establishments  the  world  is  turned  upside 
down  —  the  slave  the  master,  the  master  the  slave. 
The  slave  has  the  idea  of  property  —  the  latter  of 
reality;  the  former  owns  —  the  latter  enjoys  it;  the 
former  has  to  plan,  scheme,  guard,  and  economize  - 
the  latter  thinks  only  of  living,  enjoying  —  cares 
nothing  how  it  comes  or  how  it  goes. 

October  7th.  —  Sunday.  Breakfast,  coffee  and 
cream,  roast  beef,  venison  steaks,  wild  turkey  fric 
asseed  —  Indians  send  in  roast  venison  and  beef  — 
milk  that  looks  like  cocoanut  milk. 

After  breakfast  Mr.  Smith,  who  keeps  school  for 
Col.  Chouteau,  calls  at  house  —  wears  calico  surcoat 
after  the  Indian  cut  —  has  lived  many  years  with  the 
Cherokees.  Ride  to  the  Saline1  —  Major  Rogers' 

1  Salina,  now  the  county  seat  of  Saline  County,  Kansas,  is  so 
called  because  of  its  salt  springs. 

132 


house  —  he  and  his  wife  Cherokee  half-breeds  —  he 
absent  at  Cherokee  council  —  which  has  been  in  ses 
sion  four  weeks,  being  discordant  —  Mrs.  Rogers 
fine-looking  woman  —  her  son  a  tall,  fine-looking 
young  man,  married  to  a  handsome,  tall  half-breed. 
Log  house  with  piazza  —  locust  trees  —  Saline  in 
valley  —  bubbling  springs. 

Ride  to  hill  above,  where  Pawnee  village  formerly 
stood  —  holes  in  the  hill  where  the  Pawnees  used  to 
hide  their  effects  when  they  went  hunting.  In  cross 
ing  the  river  we  see  the  same  nymphs  whom  we  saw 
yesterday  —  they  were  wading  across  —  one  re 
turned  and  played  about  in  the  water.  A  quarter 
mile  from  the  Col[onel]'s  house  is  his  race-course  on  a 
beautiful  little  level  prairie.  He  has  a  great  number 
of  horses  which  the  blacks  drive  by  the  house  in  a 
drove. 

Leave  the  Saline  at  two  o'clock  with  Mr.  Ellsworth 
in  dearborn  for  Fort  Gibson.  Antoine  drives  the 
dearborn  —  William,  the  black  boy,  follows  in 
smaller  dearborn  —  cross  prairie  —  prairie  hens  - 
heavy  thunder-storm  on  prairie  —  put  down  the  oil 
skin  sides  of  waggon  —  cross  swollen  brooks  —  drive 
thro'  woods  —  pass  river  where  a  negro  servant  and 
horse  belonging  to  Mr.  Chouteau  were  drowned  by 
swelling  of  the  river. 

Sun  sets  in  clear  streak  —  but  clouds  overhead  — 
arrive  about  seven  at  mission  —  Mr.  Vail  —  his 
wife  a  Connecticut  woman  —  comfortable  house  — 
at  ring  of  bell  repair  to  refectory  in  another  building 
—  fifty  scholars  —  Cherokees,  Delawares,  etc.  These 
tribes  shew  great  anxiety  for  the  education  of  their 
children. 

Monday,  8th.  —  Leave  the  mission  after  breakfast 
—  nine  o'clock  —  towards  noon  see  an  Indian  on  a 

133 


mound  who  mounts  his  horse  and  comes  to  inquire 
news  of  the  Cherokees. 

Arrive  at  Gen[era]l  Campbell's  —  banks  of  the 
Verdigris  —  leave  luggage  there  for  Pourtales  and 
Latrobe  —  ride  thro'  woods  and  cane  brakes  to  the 
Arkansas  —  Indian  on  horseback  with  Indian  girl 
behind  him  and  strapping  squaw  before.  Arrive  on 
banks  of  Arkansas  —  tolerably  clear  stream  —  neat 
look  of  white  fortifications  —  blockhouses,  etc.,  of 
Fort  Gibson  opposite.  Cross  in  scow  and  arrive  at 
gate  of  garrison  —  guard  cleanly  dressed  round  the 
gate  —  sergeant  with  Irish  brogue  —  culprits  in 
pillory  and  riding  the  wooden  horse  —  arrive  at  Col. 
Arbuckle's  quarters  —  log  house. 

Tuesday,  9th.  —  Leave  Fort  Gibson  escorted  by 
fourteen  rangers  —  Lt.  Penticort. 

October    10th.  -  -  Wednesday.      Ride    with    Col. 
Arbuckle,  Gen[era]l  Houston,1  to  Col.  Chouteau's  - 
picturesque  scene  crossing  river — Creek  with  turban, 
one  end  hanging  down  —  blue  hunting  shirt  —  horn 

-rifle  —  looked  like  Arab.  Scene  at  Col.  Chou 
teau's  on  the  banks  of  the  Neosho  —  group  of  Osages 

-  blankets,  leather  leggings,  and  moccasins  —  hair 
cropped  except  bunch  at  top  —  bust  bare  or  wrapped 
in  blanket. 

Creeks  —  calico  hunting  shirts  —  scarlet  and  blue 
handkerchief  round  head  —  leather  and  scarlet  leg 
gings  —  groups  of  riflemen  with  horses  —  green 

1  Samuel  Houston  (1793-1863).  living's  meeting  with  this 
famous  American  is  especially  interesting  in  view  of  the  date.  In 
1827  Houston  was  elected  Governor  of  Tennessee.  In  1829  he 
married  a  Tennessee  woman  (Miss  Allen),  but  left  her  in  a  most 
mysterious  manner  a  few  weeks  later,  and  went  to  live  among  the 
Indians.  In  1832,  dressed  as  an  Indian,  he  visited  President  Jack 
son  in  behalf  of  the  Western  tribes.  In  the  same  year  came  his 
first  trip  to  Texas.  This  trip  led  to  activities  which  resulted  in  his 
election  as  first  President  of  the  Republic  of  Texas,  and,  finally,  to 
the  annexation  of  Texas  to  the  United  States. 

134 


blanket   coats  —  half-breeds  —  horses   and   dogs- 
hunters    in    leather    shirts  —  log    cabins  —  stately 
trees  about  river,  with  Virginia  creeper. 

Bustle  at  blacksmith's  shoeing  horses  —  breaking 
spoons  to  melt  lead  for  bullets  —  old  trapper  is  there 
-  half-breed  boy  in  moccasins  —  light  straw-col- 
[oure]d  hunting  shirt  —  rifleman  in  calico  shirt,  leg- 
gins,  etc.  —  negro  shoeing  horse  —  tall  half-breed  in 
rifle  shirt,  blue  trousers,  moccasins  —  with  pack- 
saddles  —  little  dog  looking  on  at  shoeing  horse  as 
if  studying  the  art  or  waiting  for  his  turn.  Rifle  in 
corner  —  old  rifle  against  work  bench. 

Leave  Col.  Chouteau's  at  two  o'clock  —  ride  thro' 
rich,  entangled  bottom  by  hamlets  of  Indians, 
negroes,  etc.,  to-  — . 

Encamp[men]t  of  rangers  in  circular  grove  —  rich 
bottom  —  high  trees  —  horses  tied  round,  feeding  on 
corn  —  brook  near  —  trees  tinted  with  autumn  - 
tinkling  of  bells  —  men  making  messes  at  fires  - 
some  shooting  at  mark  with  rifles  —  parrots  flying 
'chattering  through  trees.  We  pitch  our  tent  in  the 
farmyard  of  Mr.  Burghill  —  family  suffering  with 
bloody  flux  —  log  houses  of  various  sizes  —  skin  of 
bullock  stretched  and  drying  —  dogs  —  full  moon 
-pale  —  damp  air  —  distant  fires  of  rangers  in 
grove  below. 

Robin  Hood  life  and  characters. 

Mr.  E. 1  —  in  half  Osage,  half  chasseur  dress  —  em 
broidered  leather  Indian  pouch  —  powder  horn  with 
red  worsted  band. 

Thursday,  1 1  Ih.  —  Up  before  day  —  half-breed 
pointing  out  the  north  star  and  positions  of  seven 
stars  as  indicating  daylight. 

Our  landlord  large  man  with  squeaking,  broken 

1  Ellsworth. 

135 


voice  —  Mr.  Pourtales'  boots  lost  on  the  road  —  one 
was  found  —  a  Creek  Indian  was  seen  with  the  lost 
boot  on,  looking  for  the  other.  " That's  really  a 
funny  tale/'  said  our  huge  host,  with  a  small 
voice. 

Set  off  at  half-past  seven  —  ride  thro'  deep,  rich 
bottom,  by  a  village  of  Creeks  extending  along  a  ris 
ing  ground  —  pass  several  Creeks  —  one  with  scarlet 
turban  and  plume  of  black  feathers  like  a  cock's  tail 

—  one  with  white  turban  and  red  feathers  —  Oriental 
look  —  like  Sultans  on  the  stage  —  some  have 
racquet  with  which  they  have  been  playing  ball  — 
some  with  jacket  and  shirts  but  legs  and  thighs  bare 

-middle-sized,  well-made  and  vigorous.  Yester 
day  one  had  brilliant  bunch  of  sumach.  They  look 
like  fine  birds  on  the  prairie.  Pass  house  of  a  tall, 
red-haired,  lank,  leather-faced  settler  with  one  eye 
habitually  closed  when  he  winks  —  says  some  of  the 
Osages  are  near.  They  had  stolen  one  of  his  horses 

-  says  they  will  steal  horses  and  then  bring  them 
home,  pretending  to  have  found  them  and  claiming 
a  reward. 

Pass  on  to  house  of  the  last  settler  —  the  last  trace 
of  civilisation  —  informs  Pourtales  and  Latrobe  of  a 
camp  of  Osages  in  a  swamp.  They  determine  to  go 
there  and  seek  guides  to  conduct  them  to  the  Osage 
hunting  party.  We  find  ourselves  off  the  track  of 
Capt.  Dean's1  party  of  rangers,  which  set  off  several 
days  since,  and  set  off  to  find  it  —  said  to  be  two 
miles  off  —  part  with  Latrobe  and  Pourtales  —  lose 
our  way  in  a  swamp  —  tramp  for  some  time  through 
brake  and  briars  and  mud  —  after  extricating  our 
selves  we  are  overtaken  by  Latrobe  and  Pourtales 

JThis  was  Captain  Bean,  but  Irving  has  repeatedly  written  it 
"Dean." 

136 


with  the  old  frontiersman  who  is  guiding  them  to  the 
Osage  camp. 

Just  then  we  meet  old  lantern-jawed  man  who  had 
lost  his  horse  —  had  just  met  with  Osage  leading  him 
back,  who  said  he  had  wandered  to  their  camp. 

Lantern-jawed  man  was  for  tying  him  up  and  giv 
ing  him  a  swing  of  rushes,  but  we  interfered. 

Find  that  frontiersman  advised  Latrobe  and  Pour- 
tales  not  to  go  on  to  Osages  —  they  were  too  far  to  be 
overtaken  —  Pawnees  were  out  —  Osages  were  pre 
pared  for  war,  etc.  Pourtales  was  not  to  be  dis 
suaded.  He  and  Latrobe  procured  an  Indian  guide 
and  set  off  on  their  quest  —  but  a  young  man  clerk 
of  Mr.  Chouteau,  who  had  set  off  with  them  from  his 
house,  abandoned  their  enterprise  and  joined  us. 
Stopped  about  noon  in  rich  bottom,  tall  trees,  fine 
range  of  pea  vines,  for  the  horses  to  repose  and  feed 
for  an  hour  —  flock  of  paroquets  —  beautiful  trans 
parency  of  the  varied  autumnal  leaves  with  the  sun 
shining  through  them  —  horses  cropping  the  pea 
vine  —  men  lying  about  on  the  deep  bed  of  foliage. 

Resume  our  route  —  come  in  sight  of  the  Arkansas 
River  and  pass  frequently  thro'  rich  bottom  in  sight 
of  it  —  view  beyond  of  beautiful  country  —  looks  as 
if  cultivated  —  groves  —  glades  —  woody  upland  - 
willowed  shores  —  sandy  beaches  —  sunny  look  of 
the  groves. 

Pass  thro'  Osage  war  camp  recently  deserted  — 
cabins  formed  of  twigs  bent  and  rushes  —  fire  in 
centre  —  council  wigwam  —  dancing  place  —  arrive 
about  three  at  fine  grove  in  rich  pea-vine  bottom, 
with  clear  stream  of  water  —  traces  of  recent  en 
camp  [men]  t  of  Capt.  Dean  —  one  fire  still  smoking  — 
encamp  here  for  the  night  —  hobble  the  horses  and 
turn  them  loose  to  graze.  Latrobe  and  Pourtales 

137 


arrive,  finding  it  impossible  to  get  on  with  their 
slender  attendance  —  determine  to  continue  with  us. 
Their  Indian  agrees  to  accompany  them  for  a  blanket 
and  cloak. 

Firing  at  mark  with  rifles. 

This  day  in  the  woods  we  encounter  a  wandering 
dog.  "He  is  mad/'  cried  one  —  "He  is  blind,"  cried 
another.  He  came  rambling  along  with  inflamed  eye, 
taking  notice  of  no  one,  but  bewildered  by  the  noises 

-  the  poor  animal  was  following  the  traces  of  his 
master.     "I'll  shoot  him,"  said  a  ranger.     "By  no 
means,"  cried  I,  "let  the  poor  animal  go  on."    He 
rambled  among  the  horses  and  pursued  his  course. 

Two  Creeks  arrive  at  the  camp  to  accompany  us. 
Friday,  12th.  —  This  morning  the  two  Creeks  re 
turn  who  had  carried  message  to  Capt.  Dean's  camp 

-  had  letter  to  Col.  Arb[uc]kle  which  Mr.  E.  opens 

-  said  they  are  encamped  in  fine  place  on  the  Ar 
kansas  —  about  fifty  [miles]  distant,  where  there  is 
plenty  of  game  and  are  waiting  for  us.    Breakfast, 
delicious  ribs  of  pork  —  after  breakfast  go  and  wash 
ourselves  in  beautiful  stream. 

Gaiety  in  camp  —  shots  of  riflemen  —  songs  of 
Antoine,  etc. 

Osage  Indian  and  his  wild  horse  —  attempts  to 
put  blanket  of  ours  on  him  —  fine  scene  —  figure  of 
Indian  —  naked  breast  —  blanket  —  with  piebald 
horse  —  wild  eyes  —  collar  with  red  tuft  of  horse 
hair. 

Set  off  at  half  an  hour  after  sunrise  —  ride  thro' 
fine  forest  —  cross  a  narrow,  deep  stream  upon  an  old 
beaver  dam  —  see  streaming  line  of  wild  geese  squall 
ing  as  they  fly  high  overhead  —  pass  an  old  Osage 
war  camp — at  half -past  ten  stop  in  forest  where  there 
is  plenty  of  the  pea  vine  —  let  the  horses  feed  —  fires 

138 


made  —  one  man  runs  to  spring  for  water  —  coffee 
prepared  —  groups  —  some  lying  down  with  head  on 
saddle  —  others  seated  at  foot  of  tree  by  fire  - 
smoke  rising  among  the  trees  —  some  pulling  up  pea 
vines  —  some  rolling  in  the  vine  —  rangers  practising 
at  mark  with  their  rifles. 

Old  Osage  Indian  arrives  at  our  camp  —  had  been 
out  to  hunt  but  lost  his  horse  and  was  looking  for  it  - 
says  the  rangers'  camp  is  but  ten  miles  off. 

Half-breed  says  we  shall  see  no  buffalo  until  past 
the  Osage  hunters  —  they  frighten  everything  off 
like  a  prairie  on  fire.  Leave  the  encamp  [men]  t  about 
twelve,  pass  thro'  bottoms,  across  prairies  —  by  a 
lonely  pool  covered  with  water  lilies  —  see  distant 
smokes  of  Indians  come  down  to  banks  of  Arkansas 
tracks  of  horses  down  to  the  river  side  (afterward 
understood  to  be  made  by  hunters  who  had  crossed 
to  go  buffalo  hunting) .  Let  our  horses  drink  and  con 
tinue  along  bank  and  across  prairie  —  see  smokes  - 
fancy  one  to  be  the  rangers'  camp  —  follow  track  - 
find  horses  grazing  (Osage  horses)  —  arrive  at  Osage 
village  on  banks  of  the  river.  Old  man  comes  and 
shakes  hands  —  women  and  children  stare  and  laugh 
-  Mr.  Ellsworth  makes  speech  —  retrace  our  steps 
—  find  rangers'  trail  —  meet  Indian  and  squaw  - 
misunderstood  them  that  the  rangers'  camp  is  three 
miles  off.  Push  on  until  dark  and  then  encamp  on 
the  borders  of  ravine  —  drops  of  rain  —  pitch  tent. 
Three  Osages  visit  us  and  sit  by  our  fire  —  give  them 
coffee  —  scene  of  rangers'  fire  —  Indians  —  rangers 
-men  cooking,  eating,  drinking. 
This  day  we  made  about  thirty-five  miles. 
After  we  retire  to  our  tents  the  Indians  lie  by  the 
fire  before  it  and  sing  a  nasal,  low  song  in  chorus, 
drumming  on  their  breasts  —  rain  towards  morning 

139 


—  young    Osage    leaves    us    clandestinely    in    the 
night. 

Saturday,  13th. — .Breakfast  in  tent  —  weather 
promises  to  hold  up  —  give  breakfast  to  Indians. 

Mr.  Brailey  tells  of  his  having  nearly  been  over 
taken  last  year  by  fire  on  the  prairies  —  saw  it 
approaching  and  was  so  confused  that  he  was  hardly 
able  to  make  free  and  set  the  prairie  on  fire  before 
him. 

After  breakfast  prepare  for  march  —  Pourtales 
sets  off,  guided  by  the  half-breed,  to  go  back  to  the 
Indian  village. 

Set  off  about  seven  —  after  riding  some  distance 
pass  a  bee  tree  in  the  forest,  recently  cut  down  — 
empty  flakes  of  honeycomb,  remaining.  Travelling  a 
mile  or  two  further  on,  we  come  to  a  bottom  of  wood 
land  —  see  horse  among  the  trees,  recognised  by  the 
men  as  horses  belonging  to  their  troop.  Coming  to 
the  edge  of  a  ridge  the  camp  lies  below  us  in  beautiful 
open  wood  by  a  stream  of  water  —  undergrowth  of 
low  shrubs  —  blanket  tents  —  venison  hanging  on 
stick  to  smoke  over  fire  —  buckskins  spread  —  cook 
ing  at  fires  —  horses  —  stacks  of  saddles  and  rifles  — 
congratulation  of  men  with  their  companions. 
Capt.  Dean,  about  forty  years  of  age,  in  leather 
hunting  dress  and  leather  stock[in]gs  —  Dr.  Holt  - 
grey  jacket,  linsy  woollen  jacket  and  trousers,  cloth 
hunting  cap  —  old  huntsman  in  rifle  shirt  of  leather 
asks  permission  to  go  hunting  —  granted  —  men  of 
all  kinds  of  dress  —  some  lying  under  trees  —  rifles 
leaning  ag[ain]st  trees  —  powder  horns,  etc.  Bee 
hunt  —  led  by  a  young  fellow  in  a  straw  hat  not  un 
like  a  beehive  —  one  without  a  hat  following  him 
with  rifle  on  shoulder  —  Capt.  Dean,  Dr.  Holt,  Mr. 
Latrobe,  Mr.  Brailey  with  rifles  and  guns  —  come  to 

140 


see  first  a  honeycomb  on  bush  —  watch  which  way 
the  bees  who  are  at  it  fly  —  pursue  the  track  — 
come  to  high,  dry  oak  tree  —  see  the  bees  about  a 
hole  high  up  —  men  go  to  work  at  foot  with  axes  — 
by  and  by  down  comes  the  tree  with  great  crash  and 
breaks  to  shivers  —  one  man  runs  up  with  whisp  of 
lighted  hay  to  smoke  off  the  bees.  The  poor  victims 
are  pacific  and  suffer  us  to  assemble  round  the  ruin 
of  their  habitation  —  trunk  spread  open  discovers 
stores  of  honey  —  cut  open  the  other  part  above  — 
combs  much  broken  —  some  white,  clean  and  new, 
others  old  —  take  out  flakes  in  a  pail  —  every  one 
with  spoon  and  knife  helps  himself  to  the  rich  honey. 
Bees  returning  to  their  hive  from  abroad  find  the 
tree  levelled  and  collect  on  the  point  of  a  withered 
branch  of  a  neighbouring  tree,  contemplating  the 
ruin  and  buzzing  about  the  downfall  of  their 
republic. 

Some  strange  bees  arrive  and  begin  to  banquet 
on  the  honey  of  their  ruined  neighbours  —  men 
know  them  by  their  greediness  and  their  clean 
jackets.  Since  being  at  this  encamp[men]t  they  have 
taken  six  or  seven  bee  trees  and  killed  nine  deer 
—  camp  abounds  with  honey  and  venison  —  fifteen 
turkeys. 

Bees  have  spread  into  this  country  within  a  few 
years. 

Leave  much  honey  in  the  ruin  of  the  tree.  "It  will 
be  all  eaten  by  varmint,"  said  one  of  the  men. 
"What  varmint?"  "Raccoons,  opossums,  skunks, 
bears,  etc."  The  latter  will  remain  for  days  at  a  bee 
kill.  They  make  a  hole  and  get  in  their  paws  and 
haul  out  honey,  bees  and  all.  When  queen  bee  is 
killed  the  hive  goes  to  ruin. 

Shooting  —  trapping  in  the  camp  —  dinner,  veni- 
141 


son  —  roasted,  fried,  etc.,  —  bread  baked  before  fire 
—  prairie  tea.  Capt.  Dean  and  Latrobe  go  off  to 
look  after  a  beaver  tree  —  to  hunt,  etc. 

Seated  with  Dr.  Holt  —  man  brings  kettle  of  honey 
and  sets  before  us  —  from  a  tree  just  taken  —  the 
fifteenth  tree  —  swarm  round  it  like  bees  —  getting 
out  the  rich,  white  flakes. 

Pourtales  arrives  at  the  camp  and  Beatte  —  each 
with  a  turkey  strung  each  side  of  the  saddle  —  the 
Indian  camp  had  moved  across  the  river  —  found 
another  camp  —  bright  old  wooden  bowls  and  a 
buffalo  skin,  etc. 

A  hunter  returns  to  the  camp  on  horseback  with  a 
wild  turkey.  He  had  put  his  leggings  on  the  horse  to 
protect  him  from  the  briars.  Lay  on  the  grass  talking 
with  Captfain],  Lieut [enant],  Doctor,  and  others 
about  route  —  looking  at  map  —  to-morrow  will  get 
to  the  Red  Fork  —  will  cross  there  and  then  in  two 
days  will  crack  buffalo  bones. 

Hunter  comes  in  with  flakes  of  honey  —  another 
tree  found  —  eighteen  trees. 

Shot  heard  —  there's  a  buck  killed  —  more  honey 
brought  in  —  twenty  trees  —  100  men  in  camp 
feasting  on  honey  —  towards  ev[enin]g  sentinels 
posted  —  fires  lit  up  in  advanced  posts  —  horses 
dashing  thro'  the  camp  —  over  fires  —  Capt[ain]  and 
Doctor  dine  with  us  —  roast  leg  of  venison  —  roast 
turkey  —  prairie  tea,  coffee.  Owl  hoots  over  the 
camp  —  has  visited  the  camp  several  nights  —  men 
mock  him  and  bring  him  down  —  is  called  Charlie's 
owl  because  sentinel  coming  in  this  morning  fired  gun 
contrary  to  orders  and  said  he  fired  at  owl  because  he 
was  told  it  made  good  soup. 

Pourtales  fires  at  owl  —  kills  it,  and  it  falls  on  our 
tent. 

142 


Charlie  is  called  in  to  eat  it  but  declines  as  he  did 
not  kill  it. 

Mess  at  one  of  the  tents  singing  psalms  —  others 
whistling  —  sit  by  Captain's  fire  and  hear  old 
hunters'  tales  —  various  groups  round  camp  fires  - 
bells  of  horses  —  neighing  of  others  —  stories  of 
Pawnee  fights  —  ruddy  light  in  the  west  above 
the  trees.  That's  a  prairie  on  fire  by  the  Osage 
hunters. 

" That's  at  the  Red  Fork,"  said  Beatte. 

"It  seems  but  three  miles  distant  —  it  is  perhaps 
twenty." 

About  half-past  eight  a  beautiful,  pale  light  begins 
to  spring  up  in  the  east  —  forerunner  to  the  moon. 

Sleep  at  foot  of  a  tree  by  fire  —  towards  morning 
lie  looking  at  moon  and  stars  —  horses  straying  about 
the  camp. 

Sunday,  14th.  —  Bugle  sounds  at  daybreak  — 
bustle  in  camp  —  catching  horses  —  driving  them  in 
-  "Have  you  seen  my  horse?"  cries  one.  "What 
horse  is  that  broke  loose  over  the  brook?"  Night 
guard  comes  in  —  dismissed  —  fires  made  —  break 
fast  preparing  —  some  packing  —  blankets  that  have 
formed  tents  dismantled  —  singing  —  laughing  - 
joking,  whooping  —  saddling  horses.  In  a  little 
while  the  forest  so  suddenly  and  temporarily  alive 
and  animated  soon  relapses  into  its  primeval  silence 
and  solitude. 

1st  Ranger:   " Whose  wallet  is  this? " 

2d         "         "Why,  I  guess  it's  mine." 

1st  Ranger:   "What  kind  of  a  wallet  is  it?" 

2d  "  "Why,  it's  a  borrowed  wallet.  I 
borrowed  it  before  I  started,  but  you  easily  know  it 
by  a  bit  of  lead  in  it." 

Bugle  sounded  to  saddle  and  prepare  to  march. 
143 


Captain:  " Which  way  lies  the  Red  Fork?  Have 
none  of  you  hunters  hunted  out  here?" 

Beatte:  "You  go  three  miles.  I  have  only  went 
along  yonder  by  the  edge  of  the  prairie.  You  will 
find  a  bald  hill,  with  stones  on  it." 

Captain:   "Yes,  I  have  seen  cliffs." 

Beatte :  "Stones  which  the  Osages  put  up  —  from 
that  hill  you  will  see  the  Red  Fork." 


Leave  encamp[men]t  at  eight  o'clock,  ride  thro' 
tangled  bottoms  and  up  and  down  rough,  broken, 
rocky  hills  —  picturesque  look  of  troop  winding  thro' 
thickets  and  up  heights.  In  climbing  a  rocky  hill  the 
girths  of  my  horse  gave  way  and  I  have  a  fall,  but  am 
not  hurt.  Road  winds  by  deep  brook  —  a  link  of 
clear  pools  —  fine  views  from  height  of  distant 
prairies,  and  of  hills  beyond  the  Arkansas  —  golden 
day  —  pure,  delightful  air.  After  much  tortuous 
march  and  climbing  hills,  threading  narrow  but  ro 
mantic  valleys,  we  come  upon  the  Arkansas  —  broad 
sandy  shore — forests — elk — deer  - —  buffalo  —  opos 
sum  —  turkeys  —  banks  of  cotton  tree  and  willow. 
Picturesque  look  of  troops  straggling  along  the  shore 
—  some  in  groups  among  the  willows  —  turn  in  thro' 
thick  bushes  tangled  with  grape  and  pea  vines  - 
come  to  open  woodland  —  herds  of  deer  in  all  direc 
tions.  The  leaders  of  the  troop  start  a  deer  —  shots 
of  rifles  —  we  come  to  a  small  oak  tree  with  marks  of 
a  bear's  having  tapped  it  —  about  quarter  before 
three  the  troop  encamp  in  a  beautiful  basin  under 
oak  trees  —  we  take  our  station  on  a  rising  ground 
overlooking  the  camp  —  hunters  start  in  different 
directions  to  kill  game  —  horses  hobbled  and  turned 
loose  —  fires  made  —  men  silent  —  no  whooping  as 

144 


in  the  morning  —  all  busy  or  reposing  —  this  day  we 
made  about  fourteen  miles. 

Huntsman  brings  in  buck  hanging  across  his  horse 

-  shots  heard  from  time  to  tune  —  concert  of  bells 

of  all  tones  among  the  horses  —  mode  of  roasting 

bread  by  twisting  dough  round  a  stick  and  standing 

it  endways  before  a  fire. 

Beverage  of  corn  just  ripe  but  not  quite  fit  for 
grinding  —  parched  before  slow  fire  —  pounded  — 
sifted  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  to  half  pint  of  water  — 
sweetened  with  sugar. 

Captain  Dean  returns  from  hunt  —  unsuccessful 

—  had  seen  track  of  buffalo  on  the  bottom  since  the 
last  rain  and  of  an  elk  that  had  walked  out  on  the  bar 
and  then  re-entered  the  woods  above.     If  we  had 
shot  him  we  should  have  all  feasted  this  evening. 
Had  seen  traces  of  a  bear  —  lad  comes  in  with  doe 
round  his  shoulders  —  companion  follows  him  —  a 
laugh  raised  at  him  for  shooting  in  partnership. 

Clamor  in  camp  —  a  young  fellow,  McLellan,  has 
shot  an  elk  for  the  first  time  and  brought  home  some 
ribs  as  a  specimen.  He  is  hoisted  on  the  shoulders  of 
his  companions  —  groups  round  fire  examining  the 
sport.  Bee  hunters  on  the  track  of  a  tree  —  this  day 
after  leaving  the  Arkansas  we  came  thro'  a  bottom 
where  there  was  a  great  quantity  of  persimmons. 

Monday,    15th.  —  Before    daybreak    howling    of 
wolves  —  at  daybreak  imitations  of  cocks  crowing, 
hens  cackling,  among  the  youngsters  of  the  camp  - 
horses  driven  in  —  breakfast  —  whistling  —  singing 

—  dancing  —  hallooing  after  horses  —  joking,  laugh 
ing,  scampering  after  horses  —  troop  detained  for 
party  which  went  out  at  daybreak  in  quest  of  the  elk 
which  was  killed  —  to  bring  in  the  meat.    They  are 
said  to  have  got  on  the  trail  of  the  other  elk. 

145 


Story  of  Uncle  Sam's  gun. 

Bugle  sounds  to  march  —  Capt[ain]  leaves  guard 
to  await  return  of  hunters  —  after  mile  or  two  come 
upon  Indian  or  buffalo  trail  —  view  of  Red  Fork 
from  high  hill  —  rolling  of  bear  by  stream  —  grove 
and  intervals  of  various  trees  —  rocky  ridges  —  lines 
of  heights  —  then  down  through  rich  bottom  of  land 
-  affair  of  Beatte  with  a  skunk  —  traces  of  deer  - 
of  a  bear  —  marks  of  bears  on  the  oak  trees  —  come 
to  a  halt  —  Captfain]  and  Beatte  looking  out  for  a 
ford  of  the  Arkansas.  We  are  about  one  quarter  of 
mile  above  the  fork  —  river  narrower  than  below 
and  deeper  —  current  strong  —  banks  crumbling  and 
abrupt  —  no  crossing  —  Beatte  is  sent  to  look  above 
at  a  sand  bar. 

Resume  our  route  —  about  a  mile  distant  come  to 
ford  pointed  out  by  Beatte  who  strips  and  wades 
nearly  across  —  council  —  Capt[ain]  determines  to 
make  rafts  and  cross — troops  return  to  bottom  of  pea 
vines.  Our  Frenchmen  lead  our  horses  to  bank  and 
prepare  to  make  a  raft  of  buffalo  hide  —  pile  luggage 
in  centre  of  hide  drawn  up  the  sides  by  the  loopholes 
and  tie  the  strings  across. 

Launch  it  on  river  and  the  Frenchmen  and  half- 
breeds  conduct  it  across,  yelping  like  Indians.  Some 
of  the  troop  headed  by  Lieut.  Penticort  cross  one 
and  one  half  miles  up  the  river,  fording  a  long,  ob 
lique  distance  —  others  seeing  this,  abandon  the 
construction  of  their  rafts  and  set  off  to  follow  their 
trail.  I  cross  in  the  buffalo  skin  —  seated  on  a  quan 
tity  of  luggage,  with  a  double-barrel'd  gun  and  rifle 
—  saluted  by  Col.1  Penticort  and  two  rangers  who  had 
crossed  —  return  their  salute  by  discharge  of  cara 
bine  —  land  safely  and  dryly  at  two  o'clock. 

1  Apparently  a  slip  for  "Lieut." 
146 


Arkansas  at  this  place  beautifully  diversified  by 
high  bluffs  of  wood  and  rock  —  long,  willowed  reaches 

—  rich  bottoms  and  embowered  promontories  on  the 
west  bank  where  I  landed,  tracks  of  elk,  deer,  bears, 
raccoons,  waterfowls  —  woods  tinted  with  autumn 

—  this  morning  in  rich  bottom  passed  a  stately 
pecan  tree. 

Beatte,  who  went  before,  had  a  towing  line  and 
when  he  came  to  where  he  had  to  swim  he  held  the 
cord  between  his  teeth  —  Antoine  followed  the  boat 

—  Capt[ain]  and  Dr.  Holt  form  raft  of  logs  and  cross 

—  long  line  of  troops  crossing  at  distance  from  point 
to  point. 

Break  our  way  thro'  thick  underwood  to  the  camp 
which  is  in  a  small,  wild,  rocky  dell  in  the  narrow  and 
which  is  like  a  cul  de  sac  —  encamp  [men]  t  in  green, 
grassy  bottom  of  the  dell  —  ridges  of  limestone  rocks 
above  —  lofty  tree. 

My  horse  and  pony  missing  —  fearful  that  they 
have  not  crossed  —  Mr.  Ellsworth  and  Beatte  set  off 
in  quest  of  them. 

Fires  lit  in  dell  —  looks  like  a  robbers'  retreat  - 
groups  of  men  round  fires  —  rifles  —  powder  horns, 
etc.,  leaning  ag[ain]st  trees  beside  them  —  horses 
grazing  around  with  bells  tinkling  —  baggage,  blank 
ets,  etc.,  hanging  on  horizontal  poles  to  dry  —  no 
account  of  my  horse. 

Walk  with  the  Doctor  to  the  head  of  the  hill  — 
splendid  view  of  the  Arkansas,  with  picturesque 
bluffs  of  tinted  woodlands  —  bottom  of  fresh  green  - 
long  reaches  of  distant  hills  —  blue  lines  of  untrodden 
country  —  gleam  of  the  Red  Fork  among  hills  - 
beautiful  sunset. 

See  smoke  from  the  low  dell  of  our  encampment  — 
see  two  laggards  of  the  troop  rafting  over  —  shots 

147 


among  the  forests  on  the  other  side  —  distant  smoke 
of  prairies  on  the  horizon. 

Return  to  camp  —  a  deer  and  five  turkeys 
brought  in  —  sup  on  excellent  venison  steak  and 
coffee  —  repair  to  Captain's  fire  —  after  dark  see 
glow  of  fires  in  western  heavens.  Capt[ain]:  "If 
they  are  on  this  side  the  Arkansas,  they  must 
be  Pawnee  fires.  No  Osages  dare  hunt  here." 
Antoine  thinks  them  Osage  fires  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Arkansas. 

Capt[ain] :  "We  must  now  look  out.  I  must  issue 
written  orders  —  no  man  hunts  without  leave  or  fires 
off  a  gun  on  pain  of  riding  a  wooden  horse  with  a 
sharp  back." 

It  will  be  difficult  to  teach  our  young  fellows  cau 
tion  —  they  are  in  the  land  of  a  silent,  watchful, 
crafty  people. 

One  man  says,  "Where  I  go  my  gun  goes  —  I  never 
like  to  leave  it  behind  —  there 's  no  one  will  take 
such  care  of  it  as  me  —  and  there  is  nothing  that  will 
take  such  care  of  me."1 

Capt[ain]  and  others  determine  our  position. 

"Do  you  see  that  blazing  star?  That's  the  evening 
star. ' '  Another, ' '  That 's  the  planet  Venus  that  looks 
down  into  our  camp." 

A  band  of  hunters  are  still  out  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river. 

Capt[ain]:  "I  should  send  to  look  after  them  but 
old  Ryan 's  with  them,  and  he  knows  how  to  take  care 
of  himself  and  them.  If  it  were  not  for  him  I  would 
not  give  much  for  the  rest.  He's  quite  at  home- 
never  lost  in  the  woods.  It  will  be  four  to  keep  watch 
and  one  to  tend  the  fire." 

1  In  Chapter  XIII  of  "A  Tour  in  the  Prairies,"  Irving  includes 
this  remark  which  he  amplifies  at  some  length. 

148 


Story  of  the  Sergeant: 

"I  was  once  belated  in  passing  thro'  a  [forest]  near 
the  Tombigbee  —  heard  wolves  howl  —  my  horse 
came  crowding  near  me  —  drove  him  off  but  he  re 
turned  and  stood  looking  at  me  and  the  fire  and  doz 
ing  and  nodding  and  loitering  on  his  fore  feet  for  he 
was  powerful  tired.  By  and  by  I  heard  a  panther 
cry  —  thought  at  first  it  might  be  an  owl  —  felt 
awkward  —  had  no  weapon  but  double-blade  pen 
knife  —  prepared  to  defend  myself.  I  prepared  for 
defence  —  pile  up  small  branch  of  fire  to  pepper 
him  with.  The  company  of  my  horse  seemed  a 
comfort.  He  laid  down  then  beside  me  and  fell 
asleep,  being  so  tired.  In  the  morning  I  found 
the  tracks  of  a  panther  within  sixty  paces  —  they 
were  large  as  my  two  fists.  He  had  evidently  been 
walking  backward  and  forward  trying  to  make  up 
his  mind  to  attack  me." 


Wild  look  of  dell  with  fires  glaring  here  and  there 
among  the  rocks  and  trees  —  fine  spring  of  water  at 
the  head  of  it.  This  day  we  made  about  four  miles 
besides  crossing  the  river. 

'October  16th.  —  Tuesday.  Awake  before  day- 
fine  night  —  moon  shining  feebly  down  into  the  camp 
—  fires  nearly  extinguished  —  men  lying  about  their 
fires  —  light  clouds  drifting  across  the  moon  —  at 
daybreak  Beatte  sets  off  to  cross  the  river  in  search 
of  my  horses  —  returns  about  eight  o'clock  with  all 
three. 

Bustle  of  preparation  —  some  men  sent  back  over 
the  river  in  quest  of  guns  left  behind  —  demand  for 
tall  horses  to  stem  the  current  —  intend  to  make  a 
raft  and  return. 

149 


Yellow  leaves   showering   around   us  —  signs  of 
autumn. 

At  meal  times  great  borrowing  of  frying  pans, 
kettles,  etc.  —  when  about  to  set  off,  loud  demands  - 
"Who  has  a  frying  pan?"  from  the  mess  —  "Who 
has  seen  my  horse?"  etc.,  etc.     Capt[ain]  resolves  to 
start  and  leave  a  rear  guard  to  bring  up  stragglers  - 
bugle  sounds  —  troop  files  off  —  we  remain,  as  our 
packing  is  not  complete.    Antoine  who  accomp[anie]d 
Beatte  to  look  after  the  horses,  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  got  on  false  trail  and  has  not  yet  returned. 

Rear  guard  in  groups  —  some  seated  round  their 
fires  —  others  lying  on  ground  lazily  talking  —  their 
horses  unsaddled  stand  dozing  by  —  one  takes  the 
occasion  to  shave  —  some  distant  mounted  —  among 
the  trees  —  with  guns  over  shoulders  —  quiet  of  the 
grove  except  low  talk  of  lazy  groups,  or  a  pensive 
whistle  of  some  solitary  laggard.  We  leave  the  en- 
camp[men]t  at  half-past  nine  —  our  route  lies  over  a 
rolling  country  of  oak  openings  —  grand,  distant 
prospects  like  cultivated  country  —  our  route  at 
first  is  by  mistake  about  N.  W.,  but  we  alter  it  to  W. 
-  crossing  a  beautiful  range  of  open  hills  —  four 
deer  are  descried  grazing  on  side  of  a  hill.  One  of  the 
rangers  gets  permission  of  Capt[ain]  and  started  off 
for  an  intervening  wood.  The  troop  halted  and 
watched  —  bang  went  the  gun  —  one  deer  fell  —  the 
rangers  are  starting  forth,  but  Capt[ain]  withheld 
them  —  let  the  man  have  another  shot  (the  surviving 
deer  having  stopped)  —  the  deer  started  and  ran  — 
the  whole  line  broke  —  horsemen  galloping  in  every 
direction  —  Antoine,  who  had  been  skirting  the 
forest,  on  white  horse,  came  in  sight  but  had  no 
chance  —  the  deer  got  off. 

Found    an    old    Indian    camp  —  some    thought 
150 


Pawnee,  but  D[octo]r  said  it  is  some  bold  Delawares 
who  have  hunted  here  —  old  skull  of  a  stag  by  the 
encamp  [men]  t  —  fine  stream  close  by  —  immediately 
after  we  come  on  an  old  well-beaten  trail  of  either 
Indians  or  buffalo. 

After  leaving  the  place  where  we  had  the  first 
affair  with  deer,  we  came  in  sight  of  others  on  a  hill 
—  hunters  sent  forward  —  shoot  but  miss.    A  fine 
buck  starts  up  from  side  of  stream  and  escapes  — 
several  other  deer  seen. 

We  proceed  —  passing  side  of  a  hill  we  see  two 
horsemen  on  the  bald  ridge  of  a  distant  hill  who 
appear  to  be  reconnoitering  us  —  " Pawnees,"  cry 
some  —  Capt[ain]  and  others  regard  them  —  Pour- 
tales  brings  his  opera  glass.  They  prove  to  be  two 
of  our  men  who  had  remained  behind  and  had  lost 
their  way. 

Antoine  starts  up  a  fine  buck  —  shoots  but  misses 
him  —  cross  the  dividing  ridge  of  Red  Fork  and 
Arkansas  —  the  former  making  a  great  bend  —  push 
on  and  encamp  about  half-past  three  on  a  beautiful 
peninsula  made  by  a  deep,  clear,  but  almost  motion 
less  brook.  The  huntsmen  start  off  immediately  - 
our  man  Beatte  among  the  first.  This  day  we  made 
about  fifteen  miles  —  we  are  about  102  miles  from 
Fort  Gibson  —  delightful  mode  of  life  —  exercise  on 
horseback  all  the  fore  part  of  the  day  —  diversified 
by  hunting  incidents  —  then  about  three  o'clock 
encamping  in  some  beautiful  place  with  full  appe 
tite  for  repose,  lying  on  the  grass  under  green  trees 
—  in  genial  weather  with  a  blue,  cloudless  sky- 
then  so  sweet  sleeping  at  night  in  the  open  air, 
and  when  awake  seeing  the  moon  and  stars  thro7 
the  tree  tops  —  such  zest  for  the  hardy,  simple,  but 
savoury  meats,  the  product  of  the  chase  —  venison 

151 


roasted  on  spits  or  broiled  on  the  coals  —  turkeys 
just  from  the  thicket  —  honey  from  the  tree  — 
coffee  —  or  delightful  prairie  tea.  The  weather  is  in 
its  perfection  —  golden  sunshine  —  not  oppressive 
but  animating  —  skies  without  a  cloud  —  or  if  there 
be  clouds,  of  feathery  texture  and  lovely  tints  —  air 
pure,  bland,  exhilarating  —  an  atmosphere  of  perfect 
transparency  —  and  the  whole  country  having  the 
mellow  tint  of  autumn.  How  exciting  to  think  that 
we  are  breaking  thro'  a  country  hitherto  untrodden 
by  white  man,  except  perchance  the  solitary  trapper 
—  a  glorious  world  spread  around  us  without  an  in 
habitant. 

Young  man  comes  into  camp  who  has  killed  a  deer 
-  has  made  a  sack  of  the  hide  —  filled  it  with  meat 
and  slung  it  on  his  shoulder.  Capt[ain]  returns  —  has 
seen  a  gang  of  sixty  elk  —  followed  and  refrained 
from  shooting  in  hopes  of  getting  shot  at  a  large 
buck  —  at  length  wounded  one  but  lost  it.  Beatte 
returns  with  a  fat  doe  on  his  horse  —  skinned.  In 
a  little  while  some  ribs  are  roasted  and  furnish  a 
delicious  treat  —  such  is  hunter's  life  —  feasting  and 
fasting  —  we  had  just  before  made  a  meal  of  rem 
nants  of  turkey  and  salt  pork.  Wind  changes - 
driving  clouds  —  threatens  rain,  but  moon  breaks 
out  about  midnight. 

October  17th.  —  Wednesday.     Cloudy  morn'g- 
threat[enin]g  rain  —  halted  for  the  day  —  prepara 
tions  for  hunting  —  hunters  summoned  —  charged 
to  go  to  river  and  below  but  not  to  go  up  the  brook  - 
to  bring  all  their  spoil  into  the  camp  and  lay  it  down 
by  the  Capt[ain]'s  fire  that  it  may  be  portioned 
out. 

Hearty  breakfast  of  ribs  of  venison  and  coffee  with 
cakes  baked  in  pan  before  the  fire. 

152 


Set  off  with  Capt.  Dean,  his  brother,   Sergeant 
Dean,  and  Lieut.  Penticort  and  accomp[anie]d  by  two 
men  on  foot  who  are  to  bring  home  a  doe  killed  by 
the  Sergeant  last  ev[enin]g.    Soon  come  to  the  doe 
lying  on  hillside  disembowelled  and  leave  the  foot 
men  to  cut  it  up  and  carry  it  to  camp.    Come  upon 
elk  trail  —  deep  prints  like  a  cow  —  elk  beds  where 
they  laid  the  night  before  last  —  go  quietly,  Indian 
file  —  come  to  where  Captfain]  shot  the  elk  last 
night  —  see  blood  on  shrubs  and  grass  —  on  the  trail 
for  some  time  when  it  ceases  —  see  a  deer  or  two 
scampering  in  the  forest.    Captfain]  looks  for  separ 
ate  trail  of  wounded  elk  —  thinks  it  must  be  some 
where  about  the  neighbourhood  as  some  buzzards  [are] 
hovering  in  the  air — regain  the  trail  of  the  elks — car 
ries  us  thro'  open  oak-forested  hills  until  we  come  to 
a  bend  of  the  Red  River  where  the  elk  had  forded. 
It  is  probable  they  did  not  stop  for  ten  miles  last 
night  —  give  up  the  pursuit  and  turn  our  course  to 
creek  on  which  is  the  encamp[men]t.    Sergeant  and 
Lieut[enant]  take  one  side  of  the  creek  —  Capt[ain] 
and  myself  the  other  —  pass  old  buffalo  trail  on  road 
—  come  up  with    two  hunters  on  foot  who  had 
wounded  an  elk  but  lost  him,  and  had  found  the  elk 
killed  by  Captjain]  last  night.    They  conduct  us  to  it, 
about  one  and  one  half  miles  from  where  it  was  shot. 
It  had  abandoned  the  trail  of  its  sound,  unhurt  com 
panions  and  had  turned  off  to  die  alone  to-day  in 
open  oak  wood  on  side  of  a  slope  —  already  begun 
to  spoil.    Capt[ain]  and  men  go  to  work  to  cut  it  up 
— flesh  tainted  inside — Capt[ain]  and  men  skin  it  and 
cut  collops  off  the  ribs  and  the  outside  generally  - 
buzzard  soaring  in  the  air  waiting  to  banquet  on  the 
spoil  —  Captfain]  forms  sack  of  the  hides  gathered  up 
through  holes'  in  the  edges  by  thongs  cut  from  the 

153 


same  —  puts  it  on  his  horse  and  sets  off  for  camp  — 
footmen  pursue  their  sport. 

Return  to  camp.  Antoine  the  half-breed  returned 
with  a  bear  which  he  killed  near  our  old  camp. 
Old  Ryan  and  his  party  had  met  with  Antoine  and 
hearing  of  the  ford  had  crossed  the  river  with 
him. 

The  elk  when  mortally  wounded  always  leaves  the 
trail  and  turns  aside  to  die. 

Picturesque  scene  of  the  camp  —  some  roasting 
bear's  meat  and  venison  —  others  stretching  and 
dressing  skins  —  some  lying  on  skins  in  the  shade  - 
horses  feeding  —  hunters  coming  in  with  game  — 
turkeys,  etc.  —  groups  relating  the  morning's  ex 
ploits  —  clothes  hanging  to  dry  —  tent  pitched  — 
fine  luncheon. 

Latrobe  has  caught  a  mess  of  small  fish  in  the 
brook. 

One  hunter  brings  in  an  otter  —  the  rest  return 
without  success  —  game  frightened  from  the  neigh 
bourhood.  Dinner,  bear's  meat  roasted  —  excellent 
—  the  rest  of  bear's  meat  and  venison  is  roasted  to 
take  with  us  —  venison  and  bears  meat  cooked  at 
Capt[ain]'sfire. 

Camp  nearly  surrounded  by  deep  glens  with  quiet, 
clear  pools  at  the  bottom,  in  which  the  autumnal 
glory  and  mellow  ev[enin]g  skies  are  beautifully  re 
flected. 

[Irving  has  then  turned  the  book  around  and  used  the 
pages  there  for  the  following  notations:] 

Carandolet  or  Vuide  Poche  few  miles  below  St. 
Louis. 

A  traveller  from  New  Orleans  nearly  out  of  pro 
visions,  stopped  his  canoe  there  and  asked  for  food  — 
no  beef  —  no  mutton  —  no  bread  —  old  —  all  sick 

154 


with  fever  and  ague  —  turned  upon  him  and  asked 
what  he  had  —  nothing  but  a  few  fragments  of  bis 
cuit  in  pouch  —  begged  them  —  shook  them  out  and 
gave  him  the  empty  bag  to  travel  on  with  —  thence 
the  place  took  the  name  of  Vide  Poche,  or  empty 
pouch. 

Capt.    Courtois  —  old,    round,    dried    fellow  — 
looked  like  Don  Quixote  —  could  not  read  or  write, 
but  study  French,   afternoons  —  was  made  Duke 
under  the  Spanish  gov[ernmen]t  —  and  had  title  of 
commandant  with  small  pay  —  when  asked  when 
was    Carandolet    founded,    replied,    "De    tout    des 
temps."    When  the  province  was  transferred  he  was 
recommended  to  Genferajl  and  was  made  Capt[ain] 
of  Militia,  with  which  he  was  well  pleased.    Having 
no  silk  sash,  he  made  one  of  red  silk  handkerchief  - 
invited  Gov.  Lewis,  Gen[era]l  Clark,  and  others  to 
dine  with  him  at  Vuide  Poche  —  militia  drawn  out  - 
ordered  to  fire  at  each  toast  —  then  asked  permission 
for  them  to  come  and  drink  to  health  of  the  party. 
Shouldered  their  arms,  entered,  drank  and  returned 
to  their  stations  like  statues.    After  transfer  of  gov- 
[ernmen]t  he  remained  here  living  in  the  village  - 
old  people  looked  up  to  him  —  settled  all  disputes  - 
his  word  was  law.    He  was  a  good  farmer  —  kept  a 
small  shop  and  was  well  to  do  in  the  world. 

Capt.    Courtois   wore   old-fashioned   cocked   hat 
when  on  militia  duty. 

He  was  once  put  on  a  jury  which  was  a  new  insti 
tution  in  the  country  and  quite  strange  to  him- 
when  asked  he  observed  —  "My  mind  is  made  up  on 
the  subject." --"And  what  is  it,  Capt.  Courtois?" 
"Why,  if  the  man  is  guilty  he  should  be  punished, 
and  if  he  is  innocent  he  should  be  set  at  liberty  and 
no  harm  done  him."  —  "Aye,  but,  Capt.  Courtois, 

155 


that  is  not  the  thing  —  you  must  say  guilty  or  not 
guilty." 

"I  tell  you  my  mind  is  made  up  —  if  he  is  guilty/' 
etc.  There  was  no  getting  any  other  answer  from  old 
Capt.  Courtois  and  the  jury  had  to  be  dismissed. 

Chief  cook  of  Osage  villages  —  a  great  dignitary  — 
combining  grand  chamberlain,  minister  of  state, 
master  of  ceremonies  and  town  crier  —  has  under- 
cooks.  He  tastes  broth,  etc.  When  strangers  arrive 
he  goes  about  the  village  and  makes  proclamation  — 
great  white  man,  great  chief  arrived  —  warriors  turn 
out  and  prepare  to  receive  him  properly.  Chief  lodge 
prepared  for  reception  —  mats  placed,  etc. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  from  Independence  we 
met  with  camp  of  Osage  hunters  —  the  cook  a  tall 
man  painted  —  head  decorated  with  feathers  —  had 
an  old  greatcoat,  with  a  wolf's  tail  dangling  below. 

In  the  Chilhowee  Mountains  of  N.  Carolina  is  a 
rock  called  the  garden  rock  —  Indian  superstition  so 
strong  concerning  it  that  no  one  dared  to  approach 
it  —  supernatural  being  inhabited  it  —  gigantic  - 
one  eye  —  not  seen  by  men  but  the  wandering  hunt 
ers  now  and  then  had  a  gleam  of  his  eye. 

Near  the  mountain  lived  an  old  woman  and 
daughter.  He  fell  in  love  with  and  gained  her  — 
mother  and  no  one  ever  saw  him  —  mother  watched 
-surprised  her  in  the  lodge  with  him.  He  dis 
appeared  and  has  never  been  seen  since  then.  Hunt 
ers  say  he  still  inhabits  the  mountain,  which  is  in  the 
reservation  in  N.  Carolina. 

Col.  Chouteau's  comparison  of  two  half-breeds  - 
this  one  has  been  twice  as  long  at  the  Mission  as  the 
other  and  therefore  is  twice  as  good  for  nothing. 

The  Choctaws,  Col.  Arbuckle  says,  are  very  good, 
honest  fellows. 

156 


The   Choctaws   are   sly,   bargaining,   avaricious. 
They  have  become  civilized  enough  to  know  the  value 
of  property.     They  are  factious,  electioneering  - 
chiefs  try  to  get  adherents  and  make  parties. 

Old  trapper  at  Blacksmith's. 

Capt[ainj.  —  "What  are  you  doing  up  here? - 
Trapping  bear?" 

"There's  none  to  trap  only  now  and  then." 

"What's  become  of  your  party?" 

"Scattered  —  some  gone  to  California  —  some 
down  Columbia  River." 

This  flour  is  bad  enough  to  kill  a  snake — there's 
lumps  in  it  as  big  as  terrapins. 

The  Osages  are  brave  Indians  —  hunters  full  of 
ceremonies  and  superstitions.  We  are  poor  people, 
say  they  —  we  cannot  farm  and  our  hunting  is  falling 
off.  The  pride  of  the  Osages  is  broken.  They  steal 
horses  —  give  you  a  grand  ceremony  and  then  per 
haps  follow  you  and  steal  your  horse. 

Wild  horses  —  tell  you  by  the  smell  if  the  wind 
sets  from  you,  and  run  off  —  otherwise  come  near  and 
gaze  at  you.  Stallions  prance  round  and  snuff  at 
mares.  Horses,  if  they  smell  mares,  make  off  —  wild 
horses  in  droves  of  one  colour  —  some  black  —  some 
brown  —  one  gang  will  be  good  —  another  bad.  Best 
horses  cannot  be  taken.  Buffaloes  —  when  the  cows 
have  calves  the  bulls  keep  scattered  round  the  prairie, 
keeping  guard  ag[ain]st  wolves  —  charge  furiously  at 
anything  that  approaches. 

Saline  near  the  Wachile  which  used  to  be  and  still 
is  a  fighting  ground  of  the  Osages  and  Pawnees  - 

157 


their    skulls    and    bones    may  be    seen    bleaching 
there. 

A  grey  horse  has  been  noted  for  six  or  seven  years 
on  the  prairies  and  the  hunters  have  in  vain  tried  to 
catch  him  —  he  perceives  our  tracks  and  outstrips 
the  fastest  horse. 

Six  men,  a  detach[men]t  from  a  large  force,  came 
upon  what  they  thought  were  wild  horses  —  they 
approached  them  and  found  they  were  tame  — 
thought  to  take  them  —  but  perceived  Indians  near 
in  lodge  —  supposed  them  Osages  —  and  came  near 
them  when  they  discovered  they  were  Pawnees  — 
they  turned  and  fled.  Pawnees  sprang  on  their 
horses  and  pursued  them  —  one  badly  wounded  - 
fell  behind — a  Pawnee  gained  on  him — one  launched 
arrow  —  missed  him  —  launched  another  arrow - 
the  man  dodged  it  —  his  stirrups  gave  way  —  he  fell 
-  turned  and  shot  Pawnee  between  the  shoulders 
with  his  rifle  —  the  other  Pawnees  turned  to  cry  over 
their  friend  —  the  man  escaped.  Pawnee's  horse 
followed  the  white  men  to  their  camp  —  and  was 
taken. 

Story  of  young  lady  carried  off  by  Indians : 
Young  man  by  name  of  Philips  followed  her  with  a 
band  —  came  upon  track  of  Indians  on  a  prairie  — 
saw  they  must  come  near  a  point  of  wood  —  made  a 
circuit  and  got  into  wood  —  young  lady  saw  them 
and  fell  behind  Indians  —  Philips,  seeing  they  would 
not  come  within  a  certain  distance  of  wood,  sallied 
forth  —  young  lady  ran  toward  him  —  Indian  pur 
sued  her  —  gained  on  her  —  began  to  strike  at  her 
with  his  tomahawk.  Philips  says  his  horse  seemed  to 
stand  still,  tho;  at  utmost  speed  —  within  -  -  yards 
young  lady  stumbled  over  log  and  fell  partly  thro7 

158 


loss  of  blood  —  Indian  was  just  going  to  tomahawk 
her  when  Philips  shot  him  thro7  head  —  narrator  had 
the  story  from  Philips7  brother. 

Indians  when  they  have  killed  game  and  cannot 
bring  it  home,  leave  a  blanket  or  some  other  garment 
by  it,  the  smell  of  which  keeps  off  wolves. 

A  rag  with  powder  rubbed  on  it  is  said  to  do  the 
same. 

Beatte:  "I  want  to  know  what  way  to  go  any 
how." 

Charlie  the  hero  of  the  owl  camp  a  kind  of  butt  in 
the  camp. 

Beatte  —  half  Frenchman  —  half  Indian  —  talk 
ative  and  forward  at  times  —  taciturn  and  sulky  at 
others  —  brings  in  game  —  throws  it  down  and  says 
nothing  about  it. 

Antoine  thorough  Frenchman  —  vaunts,  exults, 
sings,  boasts. 

Ring  fires  —  made  by  Indians  on  prairies  to  drive 
game  to  a  point  —  a  few  men  will  run  from  point  to 
point  and  make  a  range  of  fires  for  miles. 

October  81, 1832.  —  Wednesday.  Encampt  on  the 
little  river  —  Canadian.  For  a  day  or  two  past,  dis 
content  in  the  camp  as  among  the  children  of  Israel 
in  the  wilderness  —  want  of  bread.  For  a  week  past 
the  troops  have  been  out  of  flour.  A  corporal  last 
night  was  put  under  arrest  for  mutinous  talk  on  the 
subject.  Determined  that  we  start  from  here  direct 
for  the  garrison.  Capt[ain's]  and  D[octo]r's  horses 
and  the  horse  of  a  ranger  had  strayed  yesterday  and 
men  had  been  sent  back  to  the  last  camp  in  search  of 
them  —  Capt[ain]  and  one  man  set  off  this  morning 

159 


on  their  trail.  We  made  every  preparation  for  start 
ing  —  horses  of  troops  all  saddled  —  ten  o'clock  and 
Capt[ain]  not  returned.  Mr.  Ellsworth  determined 
to  start  on  ahead  and  let  Capt[ain]  of  troops  overtake 
us.  We  set  off  under  escort  of  fourteen  men  under 
Lieut.  Penticort  at  ten  o'clock  —  skirt  the  prairie  - 
see  white  wolves,  deer,  etc.  —  see  buffaloes  and  wild 
horses  —  Beatte  and  Antoine  set  off  in  pursuit  of 
horses,  but  in  vain  —  Pourtales  shoots  at  buffalo. 
Keep  a  S[outhern]  course  and  then  turn  southeast 
in  old  Osage  war  track  —  terrible  brushwood  - 
thickets  —  deep  ravine  —  see  deer  —  fine  bucks,  etc. 

-  buffalo  —  encamp  five  minutes  before  three  in  a 
small  valley  —  near  pools  of  water.    Made  this  day 
fourteen  miles  or  thereabout.    Form  our  little  camp 
—  set  guard  —  make  fires  —  sup  on  stewed  buffalo, 
roast  venison,  pig  nuts  —  tea  without  sugar  —  spread 
our  skins  under  trees.    Old  Mr.  Sawyer  sits  at  foot 
of  my  bed  and  gossips  until  I  fall  asleep.    Large  bear 
seen  in  neighbourhood  of  our  camp  —  but  escaped 
the  huntsmen  —  fine  starlight  night  —  shooting  stars. 

November  1st.  —  Thursday.     Beautiful  daybreak 

-  camp  cheerful  —  in  good  spirits  with  prospect  of 
soon  being  at  home  and  getting  bread  —  notes  of 
quails  —  Beatte  singing  Indian  nasal  song  —  pre 
pare  for  marching  but  detained  by  the  wandering  of 
one  of  Latrobe's  horses  —  at  length  (it  being  found) 
we  set  off  at  eight.    Fatiguing  march  over  hills  and 
thro'  deep  ravines  of  parched  dwarf  oaks  with  flesh- 
tearing  twigs,  thro'  tangled  thickets,  etc.     Beatte 
kills,  a  fat  doe  —  Latrobe  a  fine  turkey  —  arrive  at 
the  valley  of  the  Grand  Bayou  in  little  river - 
wander  about  in  a  labyrinth  of  swamps,  thickets,  etc. 

-  inundated    lands  —  tangled    with    grape    vines, 
thorny  vines,  etc.,  which  almost  pull  us  off  our  horses 

160 


-  nearly  mired  in  a  deep  creek  —  one  of  the  pack 
horses  falls  on  his  side  and  wets  his  lading  —  tracks 
of  bears,  wolves,  buffalo,  wild  horses,  turkeys,  ducks, 
etc.  Try  several  times  to  find  fording  place  of  bayou, 
which  is  deep  and  miry  with  steep  banks  —  at 
length  succeed  —  all  get  over  girth  deep  and  stop  to 
rest  the  horses  in  a  meadow  about  half-past  eleven, 
having  made  about  ten  miles  —  spread  wet  baggage 
to  dry  —  hang  up  the  two  shirts  which  I  washed 
yesterday. 

Resume  our  march  quarter  before  one  —  exces 
sively  fatiguing  to  men  and  horses  —  a  broken,  hilly 
country  covered  with  scrub  oaks,  with  interlacing 
limbs  as  hard  as  iron,  and  intersected  by  deep 
ravines  of  red  clay  down  which  the  horses  fairly 
slide,  and  then  scramble  up  the  other  side  like  cats. 
The  oaks  are  all  brown  and  dried  as  if  a  simoom  had 
passed  across  —  a  miserable,  sterile,  dreary  country 
at  this  season  of  the  year. 

Here  and  there  is  a  bottom  where  there  are  cotton 
and  elm  trees  which  give  a  transient  variety,  and 
absolute  thickets  of  persimmons  laden  with  rich 
fruit.  In  a  meadow  of  one  of  these  bottoms  we  see  a 
fine  wild  black  horse.  Beatte  approaches  him,  riding 
on  a  mare  and  whinnies  to  attract  him.  Horse 
prances  round  her  at  a  distance  —  Beatte  dismounts, 
aims  with  his  rifle  over  the  back  of  his  mare,  and 
fires,  hoping  to  criss  the  horse  —  but  he  escapes. 
About  half-past  three  we  resume  our  march,  keeping 
easterly  approaching  the  North  Fork  obliquely  - 
difficulty  in  finding  a  place  to  encamp  where  there  is 
water  —  pass  over  a  burnt  prairie  —  at  length  about 
half  after  four  encamp  in  a  small  bottom  near  the 
burnt  prairie  and  not  far  from  the  North  Fork  — 
good  range  for  the  horses. 

161 


Make  my  bed  under  a  tree  on  a  hillock  among 
long,  dry,  prairie  grass  —  a  superb  couch  —  sleep 
soundly  and  sweetly  and  warmly  tho'  a  heavy  dew 
fell  —  starlight  —  watch  the  stars  on  the  prairie  as 
at  sea.  Lightning  in  the  East  a  sign  of  apparently 
bad  weather  —  clouds  about  the  horizon  —  flocks  of 
wild  ducks  show  cold  weather  at  hand. 

Camp  short  of  provisions  —  improvidence  of  men 
who  left  piles  of  buffalo  meat  at  their  camp  the  day 
before  yesterday. 

November  3d.  —  Saturday.  Breakfasted  early  on 
coffee  and  the  last  of  our  buffalo  meat  —  march 
quarter  after  seven  —  weather  clouds  up,  low  mum 
blings  of  thunder  —  wind  veers  to  N.  E.  and  it  begins 
to  rain  —  cross  prairie  and  pass  thro7  open  oak  for 
ests  —  see  deer,  but  not  within  shot  —  several  flocks 
of  wild  turkeys  —  men  on  the  alert,  eager  for  a 
dinner.  A  few  days  since,  they  despised  such  small 
game  and  I  have  seen  dead  turkeys  left  behind  on 
marching.  Cross  the  North  Fork  about  half-past 
nine  —  quite  fordable  —  ride  thro7  rich,  well-tim 
bered  bottom  —  cross  small  branches,  and  seven 
minutes  before  one  encamp  in  an  oak  forest  beside  a 
creek  —  rain  holds  up  until  we  make  fires  —  pitch 
tent  —  dry  our  clothes.  Hunters  are  gone  out  and 
Beatte  among  the  number  on  quest  of  food,  for  a 
great  scarcity  reigns  in  the  camp  —  some  of  the  men 
have  not  had  anything  since  yesterday  morn'g  — 
Tonish1  is  cooking  flour  fritters  in  buffalo  fat  for  us, 
to  take  with  coffee,  without  milk  or  sugar. 

Beatte  returns  with  two  turkeys  —  ten  turkeys 
killed  in  this  camp. 

1  This  is  Antoine,  the  little  French  Creole,  "familiarly  dubbed 
'Tonish'"  as  Irving  writes  in  Chapter  I  of  the  "Tour  on  the 
Prairies." 

162 


This  part  of  country  has  good  bottoms  along  the 
rivers  —  some  good  pasture  land  in  the  prairies,  and 
good  marsh  in  the  forests  —  might  make  good  land 
to  raise  stock  on.  Beatte  had  said  the  wind  would 
be  to  the  north  —  this  morning  a  flight  of  brant 
flew  from  the  north  over  our  heads  —  "  There  comes 
the  wind/7  said  Beatte  —  and  in  fact  the  wind  soon 
veered  —  night  cold,  gusty  with  freaks  of  rain- 
large  log  fire  before  our  tent. 

In  the  night  wild  geese  fly  over,  making  cackling 
in  the  air. 

November  4th.  —  Sunday.  Raw,  cloudy,  gloomy 
morning  —  three  men  went  out  from  each  mess  to 
hunt  for  the  horses  —  very  apprehensive  that  many 
of  them  have  made  for  the  fort,  for  horses  have  an 
instinctive  knowledge  of  their  approach  to  home  and 
can  make  a  straight  course  for  it  —  as  they  graze, 
every  step  they  take  is  towards  home.  Set  out  on 
the  march  quarter  before  eight  —  after  marching  an 
hour  or  so  we  strike  a  Creek  trail,  leading  directly  on 
our  course,  which  enables  us  to  go  on  briskly  tho' 
very  irregularly,  many  of  the  horses  being  almost 
knocked  up.  Land  improves  —  fine  prairies  like  park 
scenery,  now  mellowed  by  the  sober  tints  of  autumn. 
A  young  buck  springs  up  on  our  right  and  dashes 
ahead,  but  Childers,  a  young  ranger  who  had  acci 
dentally  alighted  from  his  horse,  fires  and  breaks  his 
neck  and  the  buck  tumbled  head  over  heels. 

Tonish  flanked  us  on  the  left  and  killed  a  fat  doe. 
Another  ranger  killed  a  buck.  Mr.  Latrobe  kills  a 
polecat  which  is  treasured  up  by  the  men.  Several 
turkeys  killed  —  noble  prospect  from  a  hill  over 
richly  tinted  woodlands,  prairies,  etc.,  and  long  lines 
of  distant  hills.  About  three  we  encamp  in  grove  in 
a  hollow,  on  the  bank  of  a  branch  —  after  a  march  of 

163 


about  twenty-five  miles.  The  horses  come  straggling 
up,  but  many  remain  behind  and  some  it  is  feared  will 
give  out  —  our  course  this  day  a  little  to  the  north 
ward  of  east. 

Beatte  arrives  late  (we  had  to  send  a  horse  back  for 
him).  Poor  Gumbo  gave  out  nine  miles  off  —  and 
Beatte's  bl[ac]k  pony  mare  not  long  after,  and  had 
to  be  abandoned  —  supper,  stewed  venison  ribs  and 
turkey  made  into  a  rich  soup. 

Comes  on  to  rain  about  nine  —  heavy  rain  in  the 
night. 

This  afternoon  we  saw  a  round  hill  or  mound 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  off  —  said  to  be  within  eight 
miles  of  the  garrison  —  still  I  fear  some  of  the  horses 
will  give  out  before  we  reach  there.  "  If  we  pass  any 
house  here  and  there  are  fat  cattle  or  fowls,  they 
will  have  to  lock  them  up,"  said  one  of  the  hungry 
rangers. 

November  5th.  —  Monday.    Cloudy,  dismal  morn'g 
after  a  rainy  night  —  camp  before  daylight  —  sounds 
with  imitation  of  cock  crowing  —  owls  hooting - 
the  poor  fellows  had  supper  last  night  and  are  cheer 
ful  again. 

I  had  prepared  my  bed  in  the  open  air  last  night 
-  when  it  began  to  rain,  crept  into  the  tent  —  sound 
of  the  axe  in  all  quarters  —  men  cutting  poles  to 
make  booths  of  blankets,  etc. 

Captfain]  and  troop  start  before  us  —  Beatte  goes 
back  for  his  mare  and  brings  her  to  camp  together 
with  Pourtales'  colt  —  has  to  leave  his  mare  which  is 
like  to  die.  The  wild  mare  lost  her  foal  last  night  and 
had  to  be  abandoned  in  the  camp.  We  set  off  about 
eight  —  cold,  gloomy  morn'g  —  overtake  the  Cap- 
t[ain]'s  troop  —  Capt[ain]  misses  the  trail  and  makes 
a  circuit  towards  the  N.  W.  around  a  rocky  hill.  We 

164 


leave  the  troop,  and  guided  by  Beatte,  strike  N.  E. 

—  send  word  to  Capt[ain]  who  has  to  follow  us  — 
wretched  travelling  among  rocks  —  quicksand,  etc. 

-  at  length  come  out  upon  prairie  and  after  riding 
couple  of  miles  we  stop  beside  a  brook  to  rest  the 
horses  —  Capt[ain]  and  most  of  the  troop  go  on. 
Two  of  our  horses  lie  down  with  fatigue  and  sickness. 
Some  of  the  men  set  the  prairies  on  fire,  but  it  is  too 
damp  to  burn  to  any  extent. 

Resume  our  march  after  three  quarters  of  an  hour 

-  traverse  prairies  —  a  long,  scattered  line  stretch 
ing  three  or  four  miles  over  hill  and  dale  —  encamp  in 
a  wood  beside  the  deep  fork  about  four  o'clock,  hav 
ing  made  about  twenty  miles  —  cold,  windy  night  - 
wind  sounding  thro'  the  forest  and  whirling  about 
the  dry  leaves  —  long  logs  cut  for  firing  —  making 
long  fires,  before  which  men  cook  and  gossip.    An- 
toine  arrives  pretty  late  bringing  up  the  tired  horses 

—  our  party  send  all  our  horses  across  the  stream, 
as  it  is  rising. 

November  6th.  —  Tuesday.  Cold,  windy  morn'g  - 
all  the  men  have  leave  to  go  out  hunting  till  twelve, 
to  supply  the  camp  with  food  —  great  firing  at 
turkeys  with  which  the  bottom  abounds  —  Beatte 
brings  home  six.  Preparations  for  crossing  the 
stream  —  trees  felled  to  serve  for  bridges  —  but  fall 
rather  short  —  our  men  carry  across  the  baggage 
on  a  felled  tree,  part  of  which  is  two  feet  under  the 
water. 

Capt[ain]  and  others  pass  afterward  over  trees 
felled  from  each  side  to  meet  each  other. 

Grove  of  peccan1  trees. 

Latrobe  kills  two  prairie  hens  —  Mr.  Ellsworth 

1  Irving,  like  Jefferson,  in  his  "Notes  on  Virginia,"  uses  the  old 
spelling,  "peccan." 

165 


and  I  pass  across  felled  tree,  holding  by  a  stretched 
cord  and  aided  by  Beatte. 

Several  of  the  horses  too  weak  to  cross  stream  - 
leave  them  with  a  guard  of  twelve  men  and  leave  two 
of  our  tired  horses  with  them. 

Leave  the  camp  half  after  one  —  cross  rough, 
stony,  woody  hills  —  have  a  fine  prospect  of  wood 
lands  and  hills  and  prairies  towards  the  Arkansas  - 
flocks  of  prairie  hens  —  Capt[ain]  and  Beatte  wound 
a  buck  on  a  small  prairie  to  our  left,  but  it  escapes. 

Walk  the  whole  way  and  lead  or  drive  my  horse  — 
most  of  the  rangers  do  the  same  —  after  marching 
about  six  or  seven  miles  encamp  in  a  good  bottom 
among  lofty  sycamores  on  the  bank  of  a  small  stream 

—  yesterday  found  out  by  examining  maps  that  we 
were  about  fifty  miles  from  the  fort. 

To-day  in  course  of  the  march  Beatte  climbed  a 
tree  on  a  hill  and  saw  the  forest  along  the  Arkansas. 
Towards  the  end  of  our  march  we  saw  smoke  along  a 
woody  glen  about  three  or  four  miles  off,  made,  no 
doubt,  by  Indian  hunters. 

Some  of  the  rangers  met  a  Creek  Indian  who  told 
them  the  fort  was  but  about  fifteen  miles  off.  (He 
must  be  mistaken.)  Said  he  lived  about  three  miles 
off  and  had  meat  and  corn  —  rangers  elated  with  the 
news.  This  day  weather  cleared  up  sunny. 

November  7th.  —  Wednesday.  Last  night  a  fine 
moon  —  light,  but  windy  and  cool  —  lay  at  the  foot 
of  a  tree.  This  morning  cloudy,  but  likelihood  of 
clearing  up  —  preparation  for  early  start  —  our 
flour  all  out  —  pepper  also  —  salt  nearly  gone  —  we 
live  on  soup  and  stewed  game. 

Two  of  the  men  (Lane,  Penticort)  lost  their  horses 

—  have  to  remain  to  search  [for]  them. 

Leave  camp  half-past  seven  —  cross  rough,  hilly, 
166 


stony  country  —  meet  five  Creeks  —  from  brow  of 
hill  have  a  fine  look  over  wide  prairies  —  Beatte  sees 
hill  about  twenty  miles  off  and  within  eight  miles  of 
fort  —  set  off  with  fresh  spirits  —  cold  march  across 
burnt  prairies  where  Indians  had  lately  hunted  - 
see  smoke  of  Indian  hunters  at  distance  —  straggling 
march  of  twenty  men  in  clusters,  or  singly  —  deep, 
muddy  ravine.  Stop  about  midday  for  an  hour  to 
rest  horses  and  warm  ourselves  —  sharp  N.  W.  wind 
sweeping  prairie  —  weather  cloudy  —  resume  our 
march  and  just  at  dusk  arrive  at  creek  which  empties 
into  the  Arkansas.  Encamp  in  grove  where  several 
trees  have  been  prostrated  by  tornado  —  large  fires 
soon  blazing  and  sparkling  —  make  supper  of  stew'd 
venison  (Beatte  having  killed  a  deer  this  morning)  - 
fine  moonlight  night  —  sleep  round  camp  fire.  This 
day  we  made  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  miles  N.  E. 
byE. 

Clear,  moonlight,  frosty  night  —  a  cup  of  water 
standing  by  the  head  of  my  bed  froze  one  half 
inch. 

November  8th.  —  Thursday.    Cold,  bright  morning 

-  make  breakfast  on  the  reliques  of  our  provisions 
-remnant  of  venison  —  turkey  —  polecat  —  some 

roasted  —  some  stewed  without  salt  —  a  little  coffee 
with  a  remaining  and  long-treasured  lump  of  sugar 

-  rub  each  morsel  of  meat  on  the  salt  bag. 

Set  off  at  half-past  seven  in  high  spirits  for  the  ford 
of  the  Arkansas  which  we  were  told  by  Beatte  was 
about  thirteen  miles  off  (some  of  the  men  this  morn'g 
were  seen  to  stew  turkey  bread,1  etc.,  and  to  rasp  the 
bones  for  breakfast)  —  march  briskly  through  thick 
ets  across  branches  over  hills  and  prairies  —  Pour- 

1  Apparently  a  hash  of  wild  turkey  mixed  with  slices  of  bacon 
and  lumps  of  dough. 

167 


tales'  horse  —  colt  mixes  in  a  branch  and  is  extri 
cated  with  difficulty.  From  a  hill  see  mount[ain]s 
beyond  the  fort  —  we  are  told  the  ford  is  about  nine 
miles  off  —  on  we  go  —  the  miles  stretch  —  the 
horses  tire  —  we  dismount,  being  fatigued  ourselves 
—  mount  again  —  the  horses  stagger  —  lag  behind 

-  colt  flings  —  Pourtales  flogs  him  on  —  at  length 
he  gives  out  —  and  the  wild  colt  likewise.    Smoke  of 
fires  on  prairies  —  get  on  tracks  of  Indians  —  at 
length  to  our  joy  come  in  sight  of  habitations  of  men 

-  Creek  Indians  —  log  houses  among  trees  —  push 
on,  horses  fagged  —  arrive  at  log  house  owned  by 
white  man  with  black,  fat  wife  —  delightful  sight  of 
hogs  —  poultry,  crowing  of  cocks,  etc.  —  horse  pricks 
his  ears  —  stop  at  the  door  —  Capt[ain]  and  officer 
eating  at  a  table  —  huge  iron  pot  with  beef  and 
turnips  —  put  in  for  a  share,  fat  negress  gives  a 
plate  heaping  with  beef   and    turnips,  corn  bread 
and  butter  —  apologises  for  giving  it  in  such  poor 
style !  —  Capt[ain]  determines  to  encamp  there.     I 
push  on  with  Mr.  Ellsworth  to  the  ford  where  our 
companions  were  —  corn  crib  on  banks  of  river  — 
give   corn   to   horses  —  ravenous   appetite   for  it. 
Scene  with  canoe  crossing  —  baggage  —  cotton-tree 
banks  —  stream  swift  —  drive  horses  in  —  Mr.  La- 
trobe's  and  mine  get  entangled  in  dry  trees  and 
return  —  other  horses  swim  in  line  —  get  to  footing 
and  land  safely  —  canoe  returns  —  we  all  get  in  - 
lead  two  horses,  who  send  large  wave  into  boat  - 
land  safe  —  set  off  thro'  woods  for  Chouteau  Agency. 
Horse  seems  renovated  by  the  idea  of  getting  among 
corn  —  pricks  ears,  raises  head,  trots,  etc.     Arrive 
at  Agency  —  supper  at  Nanny's  —  newspapers  — 
moonlight  on  Verdigris  River. 

November  9th.  —  Friday.    Leave  my  horse  at  the 
168 


Agency  and  set  off  after  breakfast1  for  the  garrison 
with  Mr.  Latrobe  and  Mr.  Ellsworth,  and  resume 
our  quarters  at  Col.  Arbuckle's. 

At  night  serenade  of  the  widow  by  the  quarter 
master  and  one  or  two  other  old  bachelors. 

In  the  fort  is  the  Widow  Nix,  a  plump,  buxom 
dame,  whose  husband  was  fifty  years  of  age  when  he 
married  her  —  amassed  20,000  $  as  butler  to  the  gar 
rison,  which  functions  he  discharged  from  the  first 
establishment  of  the  fort.  The  widow  came  to  the 
fort  a  short  time  since  and  is  the  object  of  desires  of 
all  the  men.  The  ghastly  Q[uarte]r  Master  —  Capt. 
Clark  —  the  old  Coljpnel]  himself  —  all  aspire  to  her 
favour.  A  lawyer  with  the  militia  title  of  Major 
Lewis  has  just  made  his  appearance  at  the  fortress  as 
aspirant,  and  occasions  some  jealousy  among  the 
military  men  who  all  unite  ag[ain]st  the  intrusion  of 
the  black  coat.  The  serenade  of  the  widow  was  a 
horrible  drover's  voice  that  broke  the  sleep  of  men, 
women,  and  dogs  throughout  the  fortress. 

November  10th.  —  Saturday.  Breakfasted  at  Dr. 
Pitcher's.  Engage  my  passage  in  the  steamboat 
Little  Rock,  which  arrived  last  night  and  leave  to 
day  for  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Visited  the  theatre,  a  building  erected  for  Indian 
council  house.  The  soldiers  get  up  plays  —  no 
negroes  admitted. 

Sail  at  about  two  o'clock,  Col[onel]  and  officers 
accompany  me  to  the  vessel.  We  go  down  Grand 


1  Here  we  have  the  last  note  which  Irving  drew  upon  in  writing 
the  "Tour  on  the  Prairies,"  which  ends  as  follows:  "The  next 
morning  after  breakfast  I  again  set  forward  in  company  with  the 
worthy  Commissioner  for  Fort  Gibson,  where  we  arrived  much 
tattered,  travel-stained  and  weather-beaten,  but  in  high  health 
and  spirits ;  —  and  thus  ended  my  foray  into  the  Pawnee  Hunting 
Grounds."  ' 

169 


River  and  turn  up  the  Verdigris  to  take  in  cargo  of 
stores  at  the  Agency.  Take  tea  with  Latrobe  and 

Pour  tales  at  the  Agency  with  Mr. and  Col. 

Lane  —  picturesque  groups  of  Creek  Indians  cross 
ing  in  canoe  with  horses  —  others  lying  about  the 
banks  —  led  horses,  etc. 

I  am  now  writing  on  board  the  steam-boat  which 
lies  about  a  mile  below  the  Agency,  close  by  one  of 
the  sandy  banks  of  the  Verdigris  —  beautiful  em 
bowered  stream  —  gleam  of  sky  along  the  water  be 
tween  the  lines  of  trees  which  fringe  each  bank- 
moon  rising  among  the  groves. 

[The  following  notes  are  at  the  other  end  of  the  book:] 

Mr.  E.  —  spurs  without  rowel[l]s  —  when  we  met 
the  eight  Osages  charged  them  not  to  make  war  and 
then  told  Beatte  to  tell  them  of  skunk. 

Uncle  Sam's  gun  three  inches  in  breech,  one  in 
muzzle. 

Corn  diminishes  as  his  warlike  propensities  in 
crease. 

Pawnees  always  on  horseback  —  their  dwellings  of 
mats  and  skins  —  here  to-day,  to-morrow  ten  miles 
hence  —  sometimes  dash  upon  you  forty  or  fifty 
-  look  like  a  troop  of  wild  horses  —  only  a  leg  hang 
ing  over  to  hold  on  by. 

Tonish  says  when  he  was  about  fifteen  years  of  age 
he  was  one  day  hunting  in  his  neighbourhood  and  he 
saw  a  white  deer.  After  a  little  while  another  white 
deer  got  up  and  so  to  the  number  of  seven.  He  fired 
but  missed  —  fired  again  and  missed  —  could  not  hit 
the  deer  —  went  home  and  told  the  circumstance  to 

— ,  an  old  hunter  or  half-breed —  "They  're  hard  to 
hit,"  says  he,  "and  can  only  be  shot  by  a  particular 
bullet."  He  cast  balls  but  would  not  let  Tonish  see 
how  he  cast  them  —  went  out  —  shot  —  missed  - 

170 


but  at  length  killed  one  —  the  rest  ran  off  and  were 
never  seen  again. 

This  vast  extent  of  country  without  human  habita 
tion  —  visited  only  by  wandering  hordes  who  make 
an  irruption  —  pull  out  a  few  pieces  of  its  rich  game 
and  then  retreat  to  their  homes. 

"My  gun  is  so  powerful  dirty." 
"My  horse  goes  quite  peart." 

Kentucky  originally  one  of  the  finest  hunting 
grounds  in  the  land  —  the  fertile  soil,  deep  bottoms  — 
prairies  and  other  ranges  affording  sustenance  to  the 
richest  game.  The  Indians  herd  in  it  —  some  had 
their  permanent  villages  in  the  south  on  the  Tennessee 
waters  —  others  north  in  Ohio  —  nearest  town  the 

.    Come  into  the  country  to  hunt  and  then  fight 

—  called  therefore  the  land  of  blood  —  traces  of  deep 
buffalo  tracks,  where  the  soil  is  worn  away  by  the 
travel  of  ages  —  near  Licking  River. 

Sewaculty  the  spirit  of  the  mountain  —  gigantic  - 
one  eye  perpendicularly  opening  in  forehead  —  pro 
jected  so  that  he  could  see  in  every  direction  — his 
mountain  guarded  by  snakes.  He  stepped  from 
mountain  top  to  mountain  top  —  where  his  steps  had 
been  all  was  clear  and  smooth  —  old  Indian  shewed 
a  clear  place  to  Rogers  —  "  Sewaculty  has  been  here 
last  night.  If  you  throw  firebrands  and  ashes  here 
to-day  you  will  find  all  clear  to-morrow." 

In  the  neighbourhood  lived  an  old  man  and  wife 
with  one  beautiful  daughter  sought  by  all  young 
warriors  and  hunters.  Her  father  said,  "I  will 
appoint  a  day  for  hunting  —  the  best  hunter  on  that 
day  shall  have  my  daughter."  Day  came  —  hunters 

171 


assembled  —  went  off  at  dawn  —  a  young  man  made 
his  appearance  (describe  him)  sat  down  to  break 
fast  tranquilly)  on  leaving,  went  forth  —  hunted  — 
brought  in  load  of  game  —  laid  it  down  —  said  noth 
ing  —  smoked  his  pipe  —  went  out  again  —  brought 
in  more  —  laid  it  down  —  other  hunters  had  not 
come  in  —  dined  —  went  out  again  —  brought  in  an 
other  load.     When  the  other  hunters  came  in  and 
saw  his  great  pile  of  game,  they  gave  up  to  him  and  he 
rec[eive]d  the  bride.    Lived  with  her  a  year  —  said 
he  must  go  to  his  land  to  see  his  people  —  she  might 
go  with  him  if  she  pleased.    She  agreed  —  they  went 
Off —  crossed  a  river  at  foot  of  mountain  —  their 
footsteps  were  seen  on  the  sand  on  other  side  but  no 
more  seen  or  heard  of  them.    Years  rolled  away  - 
father   of   bride   set   out   in  quest   of    her  --  took 
the  direction  of  footsteps  —  went  to  mountain - 
found   snakes   in    abundance  —  proceeded  —  found 
his  daughter  in  a  wigwam  —  great  rattlesnake  lying 
beside  her  —  "How  is  this,  my  daughter?  —  Why  do 
you  not  kill  that  snake?"    -  " It  is  my  husband  - 
gave   me   my   choice  — snake   by   day  — man   by 
night."    Such  are  all  the  snakes  of  this  mountain  who 
are  subjects  of  Sewaculty.    Old  man  remains  at  night 
—  finds  his  son-in-law  a  young  man  —  remains  in  the 
mountain.  —  Every    moon,    whenever    they    want 
game,  conjure  and  let  it  out  from  cave. 

November  llth,  1832.  —  Sunday.  On  board  of  the 
steam-boat  Little  Rock  —  River  Verdigris  —  get 
under  way  about  six  o'clock  from  -  -  about  a  mile 
below  the  Osage  Agency  —  Verdigris  River  —  beau 
tiful  dawn  — while  yet  twilight  pass  a  fire  on  the 
shore  —  Indians  around  it  —  canoe  fastened  close  by. 
Streaming  flights  of  wild  ducks  —  pigeons  in  clouds, 
some  rising  from  the  sand  bars  where  they  go  to  drink 

172 


and  to  pick  gravel;  others  flying  in  successive  clouds 
over  the  trees  —  banks  of  river  with  growth  of  cotton 
wood  —  river  of  moderate  breadth  —  finely  wooded 
banks.  Land  Mr.  Brown,  Creek  Indian,  and  trader 
at  his  place  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  —  cross 
the  river  and  stop  to  get  wood  —  go  ashore  and  shoot 
pigeons. 

As  the  day  advances  the  temperature  grows  warm 
and  genial.  The  forests  very  much  stripped  of  leaves 
— young  cotton-wood  groves — grey  branches — light 
tinge  of  green  on  tops — golden  sunshine — loneliness 
and  stillness  of  the  scene — the  Sabbath  of  the  woods. 

Persons  in  steam-boat :  Mr.  Gregory,  clerk  —  Dr. 
Cunningham,  editor  sub  rosa  of  a  paper  at  Little 
Rock,  originally  of  Philad[elphi]a  then  N[ew]  York  - 
Lieut. ,  educated  at  W[est]  Point. 

One  bank  of  the  Arkansas  settled  by  Cherokees, 
the  other  by  Choctaws  —  log  houses  along  the  river 
—  touch  at  Fort  Smith  —  right  bank  of  river  on 
rocky  bluff — ruinous  old  wooden  buildings  and  block 
house.  A  number  of  the  inhabitants  come  down, 
among  whom  I  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Rogers,  for 
merly  of  western  part  of  State  of  N[ew]  York,  who 
owns  a  great  part  of  Fort  Smith,  and  Mr.  Cairns, 
merch[an]t. 

A  daughter  of  Dr.  Cunningham  comes  on  board  - 
cross  the  line  and  enter  upon  the  Territory  —  log 
houses  occupied  by  white  men  —  groups  of  negroes 
in  Sunday  dress  along  the  shore — songs  and  choruses 
of  our  negro  firemen  —  pass  DeviPs  Elbow,  a  great, 
sandy  bend  in  the  river. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  pass  by  a  red  boat  bearing 
U.  S.  troops  on  an  expedition  to  destroy  whisky  stills. 

Stop  at  Van  Buren  to  take  passengers  —  two  men 
in  fur  caps  with  rifles  and  bedding  —  Van  Buren 

173 


embryo  town  —  at  present  four  or  five  straggling  log 
huts. 

About  dusk  stop  to  take  on  wood,  having  made 
about  ten  miles  since  daybreak.  This  day  (in  boat 
men's  slang)  we  overtook  the  rise  —  i.  e.,  we  came  to 
where  the  river  was  at  the  highest  of  its  late  tempor 
ary  swelling  —  having  commenced  falling  above. 

Monday,  12th.  —  The  fog  which  fell  last  night  con 
tinued  until  late  this  morning  so  that  we  did  not  get 
under  way  until  about  nine  o'clock. 

Immense  flock  of  pigeons  on  sand  bar  in  the  river. 

Banks  delicately  wooded  with  cotton  wood  and 
willows  —  grey  tints  mingled  with  light  green  —  now 
and  then,  at  long  intervals,  come  by  settlement  — 
log  houses  —  cattle  standing  along  shore  in  the  sun 
shine  —  deep  bayous  running  in  among  wild  forests 
that  shoot  their  branches,  and  half  prostrate  trunks 
athwart. 

In  some  places  as  we  skirt  the  shore  the  cattle  gaze 
for  a  time  in  astonish[ment]  and  then  gallop  into  the 
woods. 

Stop  at  Crawford  Court  House  —  a  few  log  houses 
on  high  bank.  Justice  runs  wild  in  this  part  of  the 
country  —  she  uses  the  sword  more  than  the  scales. 

Find  at  Crawford  Court  House  a  keel  boat  with 
freight  belonging  to  Mr.  Mapes,  of  N[ew]  York  — 
one  of  the  proprietors  of  the  steam-boat  —  stop  about 
two  hours  to  take  it  on  board.  Mr.  Mapes  embarks 
also  and  Mr.  Nolan  and  his  horse  —  Gen[era]l 
Montgomery,  his  negro  servants,  and  a  half-grown 
bear. 

Mrs.  Trimble  and  two  other  ladies  of  the  place  dine 

on  board. 

Resume  our  course  about  two  o'clock  and  go  on 
till  dark,  when  we  stop  at  Clarke's  Agency. 

174 


November  13th.  —  Monday.  Set  off  about  day 
break —  pass  high,  broken  ridge  of  rock  coloured 
with  iron,  etc.,  called  the  Dardanelles  —  here  Pen 
sion  Brailey  —  great  gambling  place  formerly.  It 
used  to  be  said  if  a  dollar  could  get  by  the  Darda-  ^ 
nelles  there  was  some  chance  of  your  carrying  it  up 
the  river. 

Between  eleven  and  twelve  pass  along  mount[ain]s 
of  Petit  Jean. 

Half-past  twelve  stop  at  Louisburgh  to  take  on 
wood  —  seat  of  justice  of  the  county.    Hard  work     f 
for  Justice  to  get  seated  as  the  seat  has  been  changed  /X 
every  session  of  the  Legislature. 

Stop  after  dusk  at  Little  Rock  —  in  the  ev[enin]g 
Capt.  Brown,  agent  for  settling  the  Indians,  comes  on 
board  —  also  Mr.  -  — ,  editor  of  the  Gazette. 

Wednesday,  14th.  —  Went  on  shore  to  the  printing 
office  of  the  Gazette  —  breakfasted  with  Dr.  Cunning 
ham —  called  on  Dr.  Fulton  —  Gov.  Pope.  Met 
with  Dr.  Ritchie,  who  begged  to  be  remem[bere]d  to 
Mr.  Peale  of  Missouri  —  his  brother  in  Philadelphia]. 

Dr.  Fulton  desired  to  be  remem[bere]d  to  Presi- 
d[ent],  Gov.  Cass,  and  Mr.  McLane. 

Judge  and  family  came  on  board  —  leave 

Little  Rock  near  one  o'clock. 

Several  ladies  dine  on  board  —  accompany  us  a 
few  miles  to  a  farm. 

Stop  at  night  on  account  of  snags,  etc. 

November  15th.  —  Thursday.    Resume  our  course 

at    daybreak  —  pass    cotton    plantations  —  cotton 

here  of  fine,  long  staple  —  equal  to  New  Orleans 

-pass   Quipaw   settlements    (tenant-at-will) — see 

groups  in  a  fine,  lofty  grove. 

Pass  Quipaw  hunting  camps  on  woody  banks  of 
the  river. 

175 


Put  Lieut.  Dawson  on  shore  at  Col.  Dallas'  cotton 
plantation. 

Ev[enin]g  about  sunset,  stop  at  the  Post  of  Arkan 
sas  —  to  land  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gumming  and  to  take 
on  freight. 

November  16th.  —  Friday.  Get  under  way  at  day 
break  —  at  nine  o'clock  enter  the  cut  leading  to 
White  River  —  in  a  few  miles  enter  White  River  — 
clear  water  with  yellow,  turbid  stream  of  the  Ark- 
sansas  boiling  up  in  it.  After  some  miles,  with  cy 
press  and  cotton-wood  groves  on  each  side,  come  to 
the  Mississippi  —  sweep  round  a  large  island  and  go 
up  to  Montgomery's  Point. 

Pass  the  day  at  the  Point  shifting  cargo.    Point 
naked  table  of  land  with  woods  in  rear  —  three  or 
four  disconsolate  houses  —  negroes  —  half -dressed  — 
oxen  —  dogs  —  bear    tied    to    stake  —  drinkers  - 
boatmen. 

Leave  the  Point  about  four. 

Stop  at  mouth  of  Arkansas  after  dark  and  leave 
Mr.  Mapes  —  sail  all  night. 

November  17th.  —  Saturday.  Last  night  ran  re 
peatedly  ag[ain]st  driftwood  —  this  morn'g  eight 
o'clock  passed  thro'  Stack  Island  —  reach  a  beau 
tiful  broad  and  long  reach  of  the  river. 

Here  about  twenty  years  since  was  a  formidable 
gang  of  river  pirates  thirty  or  forty  in  number.  Kept 
on  an  island  under  the  eastern  shore  called  Stack 
Island  and  sometimes  Robbers'  Harbour  —  ring 
leader  named  Mason.  The  band  consisted  of  outcast 
Kentuckians,  Spaniards,  French,  etc.,  etc.,  etc.  — 
well  armed  —  resolute  —  had  boats  on  the  river- 
horses  on  the  mainland  —  boarded  arks  and  de 
fenceless  boats  —  noted  the  cargo  —  took  what  they 

176 


wanted  —  no  resisting  them.  Some  of  the  keel  boats 
and  barges  had  crews  of  forty  men  well  armed  - 
these  the  robbers  dared  not  attack.  The  robbers 
have  often  been  seen  by  these  barges  lurking  about 
this  island.  They  could  descry  boats  at  a  great  dis 
tance  both  up  and  down  the  river  —  they  had  spies 
in  New  Orleans.  The  boatmen  and  traders  had  to 
return  by  land,  by  an  Indian  trail  thro'  the  country 
of  the  Choctaw  natives  —  several  hundred  miles  — 
had  to  cash  their  merchandise  and  carry  the  money 
on  pack  horses.  The  robbers  had  trails  leading  to 
the  great  Indian  trail.  They  would  waylay  the 
traders  and  rob  them.  Seldom  killed  them  unless 
they  fought  in  defence  of  then*  goods.  Sometimes 
when  they  surprised  poor  travellers  thro'  mistake 
they  would  give  them  money. 

The  terror  of  these  robbers  spread  far  and  wide. 
In  those  days  people  looked  upon  an  expedition  down 
the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  as  a  fearful  undertaking  - 
country  wild  and  unsettled  —  little  known  —  Indians 
—  river  pirates  —  alligators,  etc.,  etc.,  etc.  Long 
voyage  —  required  hardy  and  enterprising  men  — 
and  then  the  long  journey  back  thro'  savage  tribes 
and  robber  hordes. 

At  length  the  authorities  offered  a  large  reward  for 
Mason's  head.  He  wished  to  divide  his  spoil  —  he 
had  a  rival  ringleader  —  they  quarrelled  about  di 
vision  of  spoil.  The  rival  killed  him  —  carried  his 
head  to  Natchez  and  claimed  reward  —  a  man  pres 
ent  who  had  been  robbed  on  the  Indian  trail  rec 
ognized  his  buttons  on  the  coat  of  the  robber  and 
recognized  the  latter  for  one  of  those  who  had  robbed 
him.  The  robber  was  seized,  tried,  and  hung,  and  the 
band  was  broken  up. 

The  very  island  has  since  been  washed  away  by  the 
177 


floods  of  the  river  and  no  trace  of  the  robbers  re 
mains,  but  the  pilot  who  told  me  this  story  said  he 
had  no  doubt  that  thousands  of  dollars  of  the  rob 
bers'  money  lay  buried  about  the  shore  and  on  the 
old  Indian  trail  and  could  be  digged  up  as  the  country 
became  settled  and  cultivated. 

Just  below  this  reach  we  begin  to  see  neat  white- 
painted  houses  and  a  look  of  some  advanced  civilisa 
tion  —  cotton  plantation.1 

[At  the  other  end  of  Irving' s  note-book  are  the  following 
jottings:] 

Clermont,  a  late  chief  of  the  Osages  —  shrewd,  in 
telligent,  wary  —  difficult  to  be  brought  to  a  point. 
He  and  Col.  Arbuckle  had  a  great  regard  for  each 
other,  but  often  disputed  about  Indian  matters;  both 
were  prone  to  beat  around  the  bush.  One  evening  he 
and  the  Col[onel]  had  a  long  talk  in  which  Clermont 
played  shy  as  usual.  At  length  Col.  Arb[u]c[k]le  got 
out  of  patience:  "Well,"  said  he,  "you  have  talked 
now  for  two  hours  and  have  said  nothing."  — 
"Brother,"  replied  Clermont,  "you  have  talked 
about  as  much  and  said  about  as  little,  so  as  it  is 
growing  late,  I  think"  (wrapping  himself  in  his 
blanket)  "I'll  go  home." 

Gov.  Hunter,  tall,  large,  well-formed,  fresh-looking 
man  —  low-crowned,  large-brimmed  white  beaver  — 
boots  with  eagle  spurs  —  given  to  grandiloquence,  a 
large  and  military  mode  of  expressing  himself.  I 
encamped  last  night  at ,  for  I  slept  last  night. 

1  Irving  continued  with  the  steamer  to  New  Orleans,  where  he 
passed  a  few  pleasant  days.  Then  he  journeyed  by  stage  to  Mobile, 
whence  he  passed  through  Alabama,  Georgia,  South  and  North 
Carolina,  and  Virginia  to  Washington,  —  "a  long  and  rather  dreary 
journey,"  as  he  calls  it.  At  Columbia,  South  Carolina,  he  was 
thrown  with  some  of  the  leading  Nullifiers  when  they  were  at  the 
height  of  their  excitement. 

178 


Old  Gen[era]l  Nix  used  to  say  God  made  him  two 
drinks  scant. 

Little,  thick,  short-legged  Dutchman  at  Little 
Rock  —  great  coward  —  at  time  when  he  was  held 
up  as  candidate  used  to  go  with  three  pistols  and  two 
dirks  belted  round  him  —  one  of  the  pistols  being 
long,  used  to  get  the  muzzle  filled  with  dirt.  A 
swaggering  man  called  at  his  house  and  abused  him 
all  to  naught.  His  wife,  who  had  been  widow  of  a 
very  spirited  fellow,  exclaimed,  "Oh,  if  my  first  hus 
band  was  alive  you  would  not  dare  to  do  so  in  my 
house.  Ah,  then  I  had  a  husband!" 

Tour  of  two  old  Dutch  burghers  to  look  for  names 
of  old  sturdies  —  find  sixty  —  give  names  and  his 
tories  of  the  old  sturdies  they  met  with. 

Choctaws  —  much  attached  to  the  whites  — 
boast  that  they  have  never  killed  a  white  man  —  call 
the  whites  the  Beloved,  supposing  them  to  be  peculiar 
favourites  of  the  deity.  The  Choctaws  are  the  most 
honest  of  Indians. 

Chickasaws  —  amalgamated  with  the  Choctaws  — 
their  language  nearly  the  same  —  their  women  hand 
some.  They  came  from  the  upper  parts  of  the 
Missouri.  Their  tradition  is  that  they  followed  a 
chief  who  had  a  pole  of  supernatural  virtues.  He  set 
it  up  occasionally  and  as  long  as  it  remained  per 
pendicular  they  remained  in  that  place  —  when  it 
inclined  they  travelled  in  the  direction  it  inclined. 
In  this  way  they  travelled  from  place  to  place  until 
they  came  to  their  present  residence. 

The  Quipaws  a  small  remnant  of  a  tribe  below 
Little  Rock  —  they  once  sold  out  and  removed  to 

179 


Texas  but  were  drawn  back  by  their  love  to  their 
native  place. 

The  bravest  and  finest  race  is  the  Delawares.  They 
are  called  the  fathers  —  all  the  others  give  them  pref 
erence.  They  used  to  war  with  the  Osages,  who 
stand  in  awe  of  their  fearlessness.  "Look  at  these 
Delawares,"  say  the  Osages,  "dey  got  short  legs — no 
can  run  —  must  stand  and  fight  a  great  heap."  The 
Delawares  really  are  short-legged  and  the  Osages 
long. 

Delawares  —  all  their  equipments  of  the  best  — 
their  camp  kettles  of  brass.  They  are  clean,  neat, 
civil,  generously  obliging,  light  hearted,  gay,  fearless 
—go  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  bands  of  twenty  men 
—  have  frequent  skirmishes.  Excellent  hunters  — 
when  they  go  out  to  kill  a  deer  you  may  be  sure  of 
their  succeeding. 

Pawnees  —  when  they  attack  in  the  prairies  it  is 
necessary  to  tie  your  horses  head  to  head  in  circle. 
They  come  round  you  with  feathers,  mantles,  etc., 
fluttering  —  great  whoops  and  yells  that  strike  a 
panic  into  the  horses. 

Pawnees  keep  in  the  prairies  —  will  not  follow  into 
the  thickets. 

Old  Osage  looked  at  our  steam-boat  —  at  the 
Agency  with  wonder  —  came  abroad,  gazed  at  ma 
chinery,  etc.  —  said,  "God  must  have  helped  to 
make  it." 

Ralph  Izard  and  another  toper  fell  asleep  on  a  bed 
in  an  inn  where  there  was  a  ball  and  supper  —  woke 

180 


after  the  company  had  gone  —  called  lustily  for 
supper  —  waiter  told  them  it  was  over.  "We  paid 
3$  for  ball  and  supper  and  must  have  it."  —  "Impos 
sible  —  none  in  the  house."-  —"Well,  give  us  a  candle 
and  we  will  go  home."  Waiter  gave  them  a  sperm- 
light  —  they  sallied  forth  —  the  night  was  rainy  — 
they  were  too  tipsy  to  keep  their  legs  —  sat  down  in 
public  square  —  stuck  the  light  on  end  between  them 
-  tho[ugh]t  themselves  still  at  table.  The  day  broke 
and  showed  them  still  seated  toe  to  toe  with  the  light 
burning  between  them. 

* 

Arkansas  —  continual  succession  of  gentle,  fer 
tile,  wooded  scenery  —  graceful  woods  —  thickets  - 
embowered  shores  and  islands  —  long,  winding 
bayous  —  willowed  banks  —  yellow  sands  —  cattle 
feeding  peacefully  along  the  shore  —  everything 
peaceful  but  man  —  land  of  the  bloody  hand. 

Petit  Jean  Mountain  on  the  Arkansas  —  a  pictur 
esque  line  of  waving  highlands  —  of  mingled  rock 
and  cliff  and  wood,  with  far  bottom  below  —  oppo 
site  these,  rich  bottoms  with  hills  beyond  —  river 
winds  among  groves,  yellow  sand  bars,  etc.  —  moun- 
t[ain]s  with  their  autumnal  tint  and  dusky  haze. 
Ev[enin]g  house  among  groves  with  children  about 
it  —  long  vistas  of  river  between  woody  points  — 
wild  geese  on  sand  bars. 

When  Sarazin  [?]  chief  of  the  Quipaws  return[e]d 
with  his  tribe  from  their  abode  at  Cadeau,  called 
on  Gov.  Pope  —  spread  a  white  deer  skin  under 
his  feet  and  another  on  his  shoulder  as  emblem  that 
they  had  never  shed  the  blood  of  a  white  man.  The 
old  man  made  a  speech  about  them,  remark[in]g  he 

181 


had  lost  a  son,  and  when  he  told  of  his  wrath  the  tears 
streamed  down  his  cheeks.  "When  I  went  to  that 
country,"  said  he,  "the  sun  did  not  seem  to  shine  — 
everything  was  strange  and  forlorn,  but  when  I  re 
turned  to  this  country  of  my  youth  where  are  the 
tombs  of  our  fathers,  the  sun  shone  bright  and 
everything  was  again  cheerful." 

Arkansas  —  settlers  like  to  live  apart  when 
they  can  have  good  range  —  raise  corn  for  bread  — 
cattle  which  feed  on  prairie  on  pea  vine  or  cane- 
,brake  —  hogs  which  find  waste  in  plenty  —  depend 
on  their  rifles  occasionally  —  work  one  day  out  of 
seven. 

Quipaws  —  much  intermarried  with  the  French  — 
a  great  part  of  them  half-breeds  —  honest  —  liked 
and  helped  by  the  whites. 

In  general  the  frontiersmen  seem  to  think  them 
selves  imposed  upon  by  the  Indians,  because  the 
latter,  having  lost  nearly  all  their  property,  seek  to 
hold  on  to  what  is  left. 

They  have  got  the  Indians'  coat  and  now  begrudge 
them  the  fringe. 

Old  Spanish  and  French  settlers  —  retain  their 
characteristics. 

They  were  accustomed  to  be  governed  by  com 
mandants  whose  will  was  law.  One  who  was  capri 
cious  would  exact  all  kind  of  services  from  those  under 
him  and  bother  them  in  a  thousand  ways,  and  an 
other  who  was  avaricious  would  squeeze  them.  Tho' 
the  gov[ernmen]t  is  now  changed  and  they  have  equal 
rights  with  their  meddlesome,  quarrelsome,  litigious, 

182 


electioneering  fellow-citizens  of  the  U.  S.,  they  retain 
their  old,  passive  acquiescence  in  the  despotism  of 
public  affairs  —  do  not  intermeddle  or  distress  them 
selves  in  elections  or  worry  themselves  about  public 
affairs  —  have  not  the  enterprise  of  the  Yankees  — 
nor  their  eagerness  for  growth  and  conquest.  If  an 
American  cultivates  twenty  acres  and  has  forty  un 
cultivated,  the  next  year  he  cultivates  ten  more.  If 
he  has  three  negroes,  gets  six  more,  and  so  with  his 
stock.  The  old  Spanish  and  French  cultivate  the 
same  number  of  acres,  have  the  same  number  of 
negroes,  etc.,  etc.,  year  in  and  year  out  —  content  to 
live  within  their  income  and  not  eager  to  increase 
it  —  simple  in  appearance  and  habits  —  remarkably 
honest  and  punctual  —  kind  and  neighbourly  among 
themselves  —  more  civil  and  courteous  than  the 
Americans  —  dress  in  their  best  on  Sundays  - 
dance  —  sing  —  polite  to  the  women  —  never  quarrel 
but  with  the  tongue.  When  one  has  been  about  and 
returns,  great  rejoicing,  embracing  throughout  the 
family. 

Qu[ery]  —  How  do  they  treat  their  negroes? 

A[nswer]  —  Work  them  hard  —  feed  and  clothe 
them  poorly.  It  is  proverbial  in  this  part  of  the 
country  that  a  Frenchman  is  hard  upon  his  horse 
and  his  negroes. 

Qu.  —  Do  they  wear  old  dresses  —  white  night 
caps  —  pipe  —  songs? 

There  are  but  two  or  three  families  at  present  at 
the  fort  —  most  of  them  are  at  a  settlement  below 
frontier  on  river  where  they  retain  French  language 
—  keep  apart  from  Americans. 

They  have  nothing  of  the  public  spirit  that  makes 
itself  uneasy  and  unhappy  about  public  men  and 

183 


public  manners  and  sinks  in  sorrow  through  the  news 
papers —  nothing  of  that  spirit  that  sets  up  two 
newspapers  in  the  little  village  of  Little  Rock  and 
sets  neighbours  by  the  ears  calling  each  other  hard 
names  and  reviling  each  other  because  they  differ  on 
abstract  points.  They  have  given  up  competing 
with  the  Americans]  who  have  too  much  enterprise 
and  industry  for  them. 

A  few  old  fellows  exert  a  patriarchal  sway  over  the 
community.  Their  word  and  opinion  is  law. 

Very  fond  of  holidays  —  they  dance  and  pass  their 
time  merrily. 

They  do  not  like  Americans;  [who,  they  say] 
trouble  themselves  with  cares  beyond  their  horizon 
and  impart  sorrow  thro'  newspapers  from  every 
point  of  the  compass. 

Mr.  Cummings  married  daughter  of  Mons.  -  — , 
the  great  man  of  the  place  —  worth  40  or  50,000$. 
She  inherits  French  vivacity  of  temperament  and  it 
is  said  rules  her  husband  with  the  slipper.  She  is 
pretty,  dark,  black-eyed  woman.  Her  father  when 
he  travels  affects  the  Don  —  on  board  steam-boat 
has  his  own  serv[an]t  —  his  own  wine  —  cannot 
drink  steam-boat  wine. 

Judge  -  — ,  very  official  —  over  mindful  dignity  of 
his  office  —  rather  slow,  but  upright  and  amicable. 

At  the  Post  —  old-fashioned  French-looking 
houses. 

Abundance  of  dogs  —  whenever  you  hear  of  poor 
people  in  this  part  of  the  country  you  may  be  sure  to 
find  abundance  of  dogs. 

184 


Old  negro  with  a  long,  good-humoured  horse  face  and 
a  straw  hat  smashed  back  from  it  like  a  mandarin  cap. 

This  day  pass  Quipaw  hunting  camps  on  the  border 
of  the  river. 

Put  Lieut.  Dawson  on  shore  at  Col.  D.'s  cotton 
plantation. 

After  sunset  stop  at  the  Post  of  Arkansas  —  a 
century  old  —  originally  a  Spanish  post  — then 
French  —  a  decayed,  ruinous  place  —  old  Spanish 
wooden  building,  with  piazza  —  out  houses  — 
French  buildings,  with  casement  —  piazzas  —  re 
mains  of  stockade  —  at  present  surrounding  garden 
and  house  of  Mons.  -  — ,  the  principal  merch[an]t. 

Near  the  old  Spanish  house  are  two  large  ruins  - 
neglected  kitchen  garden. 

Town  stands  on  the  abrupt  end  of  a  flat  prairie 
that  extends  seventy  miles  —  French  town  and 
American  town  —  the  former  on  the  site  of  the  Span 
ish  post  —  the  latter  two  or  three  hundred  yards  off 
-  melancholy,  silent,  deserted  look  of  the  place  - 
commands  a  bend  and  winding  of  the  river  —  old 
French  merch[an]t  large,  strong-built  man  with 
strong  features  —  tall  sons  —  French  jabbered  about 
the  place  —  young  mons[ieur]  in  blanket  surtout. 

German  merch[an]t  at  Little  Rock  who  came  there 
a  pedlar  —  set  up  store  for  cash  at  twenty-five  per 
cent  under  the  others  —  never  trusted  except  to  sure 
people  —  in  five  years  has  made  a  little  fortune  - 
chuckles  at  it  —  Ask  him  how  he  invests  it.  —  "Oh 
—  most  proke  —  tinks  I  must  puy  a  steam-boat." 

Choctaws  —  believe  in  witches  —  one  Choctaw  set 
up  for  a  doctor,  —  his  father,  mother,  and  other  rela- 

185 


lives  died.  It  was  suspected  he  was  a  wizard  and  had 
practised  spells  on  them  —  several  of  the  old  men 
who  were  not  wizards  held  a  council  upon  it  and  de 
termined  he  was  a  wizard.  He  heard  of  it  and  cleared 
out.  His  own  brother  set  off  in  pursuit  of  him, 
tracked  him  for  two  days  and  killed  him  with  a  rifle. 
In  such  cases  they  do  not  attempt  to  resist  or  to  de 
fend  themselves  when  overtaken. 

A  small  burg  —  flourishing  village  —  which  pub 
lished  two  rival  newspapers,  had  three  hotels  and  the 
usual  number  of  judges,  generals,  and  colonels,  not  to 
speak  of  lawyers  and  doctors. 


186 


ESOPUS  AND  DUTCH  TOUR1 
1833 

September  llih,  1833.  —  Tuesday.  Leave  Albany 
with  Mr.  VanBuren2  and  John  Van  Buren  for  Kinder- 
hook. 

Near  Albany  —  Kiddshofen,  where  it  is  said  Kidd3 
buried  money.  Not  far  below  about  one  mile  is  a 
rough,  rocky  hill  with  old  brick  house.  Here  fortunes 
have  been  spent  seeking  for  copper. 

Thirteen  miles  below  Albany  we  pass  Barren 
Island,  —  a  rocky  island  round  backed,  commanding 
a  pass  of  the  river.  Kinderhook  —  Brom  Van  Alstyn, 
a  helter-skelter  way.  Woodchuck. 

Visit  Jesse  Marron  —  trees  loaded  with  fruit  about 
the  house. 

1  Irving  goes  down  the  Hudson  from  Albany  to  Nyack,  visiting 
both  sides  of  the  river.    His  tour  takes  him  through  parts  of  Ulster, 
Sullivan,  Orange,  and  Rockland  counties,  finally  ending  in  New 
York  State  at  Tappan.    Here  he  crossed  the  border  into  New  Jer 
sey,  reaching  Hackensack  about  a  fortnight  after  leaving  Albany. 
In  jotting  down  the  dates,  Irving  is  amusingly  careless.    The  en 
tries  begin  with  Tuesday,  September  11.    Other  dates  that  he  gives 
are  Wednesday,  September  11,  Sunday,  September  15,   Monday 
16th,   Tuesday   17th,   Sunday  21st,    Monday  22d,   Tuesday  23d, 
and  Wednesday,  date  omitted.    Obviously  he  lost  track  of  dates  in 
this  out-of-the-way  tour  through  the  old  Dutch  regions  of  New 
York  State. 

2  Martin  Van  Buren  was  born  in  Kinderhook,  in  December, 
1782,  about  four  months  before  the  birth  of  his  friend,  Irving. 

3  William  Kidd,  the  Scotch  navigator,  who  was  commissioned  to 
put  down  piracy,  but  who  was  said  to  have  turned  pirate  himself. 
Some  of  Kidd's  buried  treasure  was  found  on  Gardiner's  Island, 
and  there  are  legends  of  other  hidden  loot  which  persist  to  this  day. 
Kidd  was  hanged  in  1701  for  having  murdered  one  of  his  own  men. 

187 


September  12th.  —  Wednesday.  Beautiful  view 
along  the  valley  of  the  Kinderhook  hill  from  Wyn- 
coop's  house  —  breakfast  at  Dr.  Beekman's. 

Training  day  at  Kinderhook  —  legions  of  cake 
—  carts  —  men  in  old  cocked  hats  and  parti-col 
oured  calico  trousers  selling  cake. 

Old  black  Symes  seventy  years  old.  Has  been 
drunk  the  last  fifty  —  contracts  to  work  and  employs 
black  men  under  him  whom  he  never  pays. 

Frank  who  had  lived  with  Mr.  Van  Ness l  and  recol 
lects  my  shooting  the  crow  twenty-five  years  since  — 
abundance  of  drovers  at  the  training  —  worthies  of 
Kinderhook  —  Brom  Van  Alstyn. 

Meet  at  breakfast  Dr.  Clark,  father  to  Mrs.  Beek- 
man. 

Leave  at  half-past  eleven  —  drive  by  the  village  — 
fine  view  of  Kinderhook  with  Catskill  Mount[ain]s 
behind  —  valley  of  the  Kleine  Kill  where  the  guid- 
men  lived  —  rich  valley  —  Catskill  at  distance. 

Hudson  —  South  Bay  with  romantic  promontory 
joining  our  house  —  Catskill  Mount[ain]s  opposite. 

Race  of  men  inhabit  side  of  hill  near  Hudson  - 
Indian   habits  —  huntsmen  —  fishermen  —  used   to 
come  to  Hudson  Indian  file  —  thought  their  lawyers 
cheated  them  —  Van  Buren  pleaded  their  cause. 

September  15th.  —  Sunday.  Serene  day  —  golden 
sunshine  —  shimmer  of  the  landscape  —  universal 
note  of  the  crickets. 

Ev[enin]g.    Walk  to  the  hills. 

Monday,  16th.  —  Leave  Staatsburg  ten  o'clock  — 
ride  into  interior  —  Crum  Elbow  —  Pleasant  Valley 

1  During  the  two  months  that  followed  the  death  of  Matilda 
Hoffman,  Irving,  eager  to  escape  from  city  life,  lived  as  the  guest  of 
his  friend,  Judge  William  P.  Van  Ness,  in  the  same  home  at  Kinder- 
hook  where,  in  1833,  he  was  again  a  visitor,  this  time  sharing  the 
hospitality  of  Martin  Van  Buren. 

188 


—  pear  trees  —  nut  trees  and  sycamores  —  farms 
-  woods  —  fertile  little  valleys  —  arrive  at  Pofugh]- 
keepsie  about  two  —  put  up  at  Hatch's. 

See  Gilbert  Livingston  —  Judge  Emmett  —  Mr. 
Theron  Budd. 

Tuesday,    17th.  —  Cross    ferry  —  high    banks  - 
drive  up   road   among  hills. 

Paltz  —  in  rich  valley  between  range  of  moun- 
t[ain]s  —  headlands  —  rocks  and  trees  —  stream  runs 
thro7  valley  —  Budd's  Tavern  —  neat  rooms  —  old 
fashioned  —  smoke  on  the  Shawangunk  mountains. 

Catskill  Mounts  in  the  distance  —  hazy  —  Shaw 
angunk  Mount [ain]s  —  woody  with  rocky  headlands. 

Trees  of  the  country  —  oak  —  black  walnut,  etc. 

Paltz  —  stone  houses. 

Mr.  Budd  —  little  stout  man  with  red  nose. 

Old  Fort  1703  —  large  old  stone  house  —  small 
casement  windows  —  Dubois  —  Elting  —  Lefevre  — 
Hasbrouck  —  Deyo. 

1731  — Oct.   7 

A   Du  Bois 

Survivor  of  12  Patentees 

Rude,  old,  square  grave-stone  rudely  engraved : 

Noah  Elting  and  Jacomenje  —  his  spouse. 

Rich  valley  or  plains  with  woods  —  groves  —  or 
chards —  meadows  —  river  winding  thro'  —  Shongo 
Mount[ain]s  with  farms  —  woods  —  uplands. 

Rocky  point  or  headland  where  there  is  a  deep  lake 
one  mile  long  with  fish  in  it. 

Van  Wagener  —  Mrs.  DeWitt,  Milliner. 

Tuesday  —  Wednesday,  18th.  —  At  Kingston.1 

1  Originally  called  "Esopus"  (after  the  Esopus  Indians)  by  the 
Dutch  who  settled  here  in  1652.  Twelve  years  later  the  English 
came  into  control,  and  in  1669  the  name  was  changed  to  Kingston. 

189 


Mr.  Su[y]  dam's  coachman  —  liberated  several 
years  since  —  goes  to  N[ew]  York  —  Albany  — 
comes  back  —  says  he  was  never  a  slave  until 
now. 

Kingston  —  at  the  west  end  of  the  village  was  the 
fort  where  DeWitt  built  a  mill. 

Rich  plain  —  old  De  Witt  farm-house  —  farms  of 
Wyncoops  and  Ten  Eycks  —  rich  old  names  — 
Dutch  consider  it  a  disgrace  to  let  their  farms  go 
out  of  their  families  —  have  retained  them  from 
generation  to  generation. 

Corner  of  orchard  where  Esopus  the  old  race-horse 
was  buried. 

Negroes  buried  near  by. 

Spooks  rise  there  and  on  a  blue  stone. 

Old  people  in  village  believe  in  witches,  ghosts, 
etc. 

Old  bl[ac]k  woman  at  Elmendorf 's  strong  believer. 

Brink  —  a  doctor  who  cures  by  charms  —  witch 
doctor  —  witches  of  Rondout  burnt  the  cattle,  etc. 

Miss  Wyncoop  —  old  maid  —  goes  from  house  to 
house  visiting  —  skilled  in  pastry,  etc.,  etc.  —  in 
vited  wherever  there  are  preparations  for  a  feast  — 
a  great  gossip. 

Old  Dutch  house  —  every  room  on  a  different 
level  —  steps  to  go  up  and  down. 

Jacob's  Valley  —  brook  running  thro'  it  —  old 
Indian  spring  —  considered  as  haunted. 

Mr.  Elmendorf 's  brother  went  sparking  —  Dutch 
lass  seated  on  his  lap  broke  his  pipe  to  pieces  —  re 
turning  home  tho[ugh]t  he  heard  something  on  the 
spook  ground  —  ran  —  heard  the  rattling  of  his  pipe 
-  tho[ugh]t  it  the  rattling  of  chains  —  scampered 
home  —  forced  open  door  in  spite  of  latches,  and 
pitched  head  foremost  on  the  floor. 

190 


Hunting    in    the    mount[ain]s  —  bears  —  deer 

lakes  in  the  mountains  where  deer  are  hunted  in 
canoes  by  torch-light. 

Old  Dutch  house  with  great  sycamore  tree  under 
which  an  old  Dutchman  used  to  sit  and  read  a 
Dutch  Bible  in  a  chanting  tone. 

Friday,  20th.  —  Call  on  Mr.  Snyder  —  county 
clerk  —  inspect  old  treaties  in  Dutch  and  English 
with  Indians  tied  by  wampum  belt  —  records,  etc., 
kept  in  great  deal  chest  with  curious,  cumbrous  old 
Dutch  steel  lock. 

Snyder,  a  jovial-spoken,  good-humoured  man. 
Among  the  records  an  account  of  trials,  etc.,  in 
which  was  concerned  Hildegarda  Van  Steghenhorst. 
She  once  kept  a  store  —  was  summoned  to  appear  in 
court  —  asked  if  ready  for  trial.  Yes  if  judge  would 
swear  and  kiss  the  book  that  he  would  decide  rightly 
between  all  parties  —  said  he  had  sworn  so  when  he 
had  entered  upon  office  —  well,  she  tho[ugh]t  he 
could  have  no  objection  to  swearing  again  by  way  of 
refreshing  his  memory. 

She  sues  a  boy  for  breaking  her  windows  with  a 
pebble  stone  —  appears  to  have  been  a  shrew. 

After  leaving  Kingston  half-past  ten  — drive 
through  Hurley  —  then  to  Marlboro  town  —  enter 
into  beautiful  valleys  between  Shongo  Mountains 
and  Alleghanys  —  former  cultivated  in  some  places 
to  summits  —  hamlets  gleaming  on  sides. 

Clouds  rolled  off  to  Catskill  or  Blue  Mountains. 
Vast  sloping  sides  of  Shongo  Mountain  richly  cov 
ered  with  opulent  farms,  etc. 

Throughout  the  country  solid  stone  farm-houses  - 
Dutch  or  rural  aristocracy. 

Dutch  farm-houses  with  good  barns  —  pines  - 
sycamore,  elm,  and  willow  trees. 

191 


Valleys  with  immense  fruit  trees  —  rich  meadows 
—  winding  streams. 

Roseton  —  scattered  hamlet  or  village  in  rich 
valley  —  with  the  broad,  wooded  slopes  of  the  Shaw- 
angunk  Mount[ain]s  —  descend  to  it  —  noise  of 
drum  from  mountainside  —  training  day. 

Beautiful  variegated  side  of  soft  sloping  Shawan- 
gunk  —  distant  blue  summits  of  the  Catskills. 

Training  —  picturesque  groups  on  border  of  ^  a 
pastoral  stream  (the  Rondout)  —  militia  training  in 
rich  meadow  with  magnificent  mountain  scenery  in 
the  background  —  horses  galloping  about  the  mead 
ows  —  one  with  two  men  on  it. 

Beautiful  drive  thro'  rich  valleys  with  Rondout 
winding  thro'  —  Alleghanys  to  right  —  Shawangunk 

to  left. 

Dine  at  Widow  Hournbeck's  —  ham  and  eggs. 

Waggon  loads  of  the  train  bands  arrive  —  heavy 
shower. 

Set  off  about  six  o'clock  —  after  a  time  a  heavy 
shower  comes  on  with  thunder  —  dark  —  only  see 
our  road  by  flashes  of  lightning. 

Arrive  safe  at  Ellenville  where  we  put  up  for  the 
night  at  very  indifferent  inn  kept  by . 

Pomposity  of  Dutch  dignitaries  —  Dutch  proud  — 
leave  Ellenville  at  six  o'clock  —  drive  along  the 
hollow  which  narrows  to  Wurtsboro  — at  Mr. 
Nevins'  —  good  house  —  see  Judge  Demick. 

Leave  Wurtsboro  at  ten  —  cross  the  Shawangunk 
mountains.  Splendid  view  from  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  looking  towards  Highlands  —  surveying 
the  varied  valley  of  the  Wallkill  — and  a  rich, 
broken  country  of  vast  extent  watered  by  vari 
ous  streams  winding  their  way  to  bear  tributes  to 
the  Hudson. 

192 


Distant  line  of  blue  mountains  across  the  country 
with  the  gap  on  entrance  to  the  Highlands  thro' 
which  the  Hudson  enters. 

Scenery  of  all  these  parts  like  the  Italian  scenery 
bordering  on  the  Apennines. 

Sunday,    21st.  —  At    Goshen  —  EdseFs   Hotel  - 
heard  good  sermon  from  the  Episcopal  preacher,  Mr. 
Clark  of  Brooklyn.    Dine  at  Gen[era]l  Wyckham's 
—  met  Mr.  Van  Duzer  there. 

People  in  this  neighbourhood  well  off  —  rich  — 
live  frugally  and  put  out  their  money  on  bond  and 
mortgage. 

Pass  the  ev[enin]g  at  Mr.  Van  Dyck  —  editor  of 
the  Jackson  paper  —  his  mother  Mrs.  Van  Dyck  of 
Kinderhook. 

Monday,  22d.  —  Leave  Goshen  little  after  six. 

Breakfast  at  Monroe. 

This  was  the  headquarters  of  Claudius  Smith, 
head  of  a  gang  of  Skinners1  during  the  Revolu 
tion —  he  had  a  cave  in  this  neighbourhood  and 
one  back  of  Goshen  —  was  taken  and  hanged  at 
Goshen. 

Ramapough  Mountain  and  River  at  Iron  Works  — 
Schunemunk  Mountains  between  Goshen  and  the 
River  Mountains. 

Haverstraw  —  Smith's  house  on  a  hill  where  Andr& 
and  Arnold  had  an  interview  —  stone  house  (white) 
Arnold  came  down  in  boat  with  Smith  —  landed  on 
shore  opposite  Victoria  —  sent  Smith  on  board  to  see 
Andr6  —  they  had  interview  on  shore  till  daylight  — 

1  During  the  British  occupancy  of  New  York  City  (1776-1783) 
that  region  along  the  Hudson  River  known  as  "  neutral  ground " 
(extending  some  forty  miles  northward  from  Spuyten  Duyvil)  was 
sub  j  ect  both  to  American  and  British  marauders .  The  Americans  were 
nicknamed  "Skinners";  the  British,  "Cowboys."  (See  Cooper's 
"The  Spy.") 

193 


afraid  to  send  Andre  back  to  the  ship  lest  people 
should  see  it  —  pulled  up  along  shore  two  miles  and 
then  went  to  Smith's  house  —  remained  there  a  day 
or  two  —  Smith  disguised  Andre  and  crossed  the 
river  with  him  —  left  him  near  Tarry  town  —  Smith 
was  taken  —  confined  in  Goshen  gaol  —  his  wife 
came  to  see  him  —  exchanged  dresses  with  him  —  he 
got  off  —  rode  behind  a  friend  —  got  to  N[ew]  York 

—  went  to  England  —  after  the  peace  returned  to 
N[ew]  York  —  came  up  here  but  could  not  stand  the 
scorn  of  the  people  —  died  poor.    The  Smiths  once 
owned  much  land  hereabouts  —  a  place  called  Smith 
Clove  —  mostly  lawyers.    The  property  has  slipped 
out  of  the  hands  of  the  family.    There  is  a  lawyer,  a 
nephew  of  Smith's,  at  Haverstraw. 

Leave  Haverstraw  about  half-past  eight. 

Tuesday,  23d.  —  Drive  along  river  one  mile  and  up 
clove  —  pass  thro'  ridge  of  mount[ain]s  into  open 
country  —  snug  stone  farm-houses.  Waggon  breaks 
down  close  by  a  farmer's  of  the  name  of  Herring  who 
assists  us.  Waggoner  named  Giraud  aids  us  and  takes 
out  trunks  in  his  waggon  —  go  on  for  two  miles  to 
Nyack  post-office  at  Clarkstown,  kept  by  Ablones  - 
got  waggon  mended  —  dine  there. 
3  Rockland  County  —  hilly  --  diversified  --  snug 
brown  stone  farm-houses  perched  on  hillocks  and 
commanding  fine  views. 

Autumnal  day  —  maple  trees  tint  the  forest  — 
noise  of  cricket  and  tree  toad. 

Drive  from  Ablones'  to  Nyack  —  fine  view  thro' 
the  opening  of  the  trees  and  hills,  over  Tappan  Bay 
to  the  opposite  shore  —  snug  stone  cottages  of  Nyack 

—  bold  bluffs  to  the  left  advancing  into  the  Hudson 

—  romantic  coast  to  the  south  —  range  of  rocky 
heights  embracing  the  intervale  —  fine  drive  along 

194 


the  coast  to  Tappan  —  road  near  the  river  with  belt 
of  trees  and  shrubs  and  rocks  below  it. 

Drive  up  Tappan  Strat  —  number  of  Dutch  wag 
gons  returning  from  the  landing. 

Women  with  Dutch  sun  bonnets  —  people  talk 
Dutch  —  neatness  of  houses  —  grass  plots  —  open 
upon  pleasant  rural  country  with  belt  of  woody 
hills  to  the  left  —  the  line  that  terminates  in  the 
pallisades. 

Stop  at  Judge  -    -'s,  former  member  of  Assembly 
—  seventy  years  of  age.    His  brother  eighty  and  their 
two  wives  taking  tea  in  the  little  hall  of  the  farm 
house  —  granddaughter  of  thirteen  years  of  age  with 
uncommonly  fine,  large  black  eyes.    Farm  stands  at 
some  distance  from  the  road,  with  meadows  between 
-  old  man's  son  and  grandson  come  in. 

See  from  the  house  the  hill  where  Andre  was  hanged. 

Drove  thro'  Tappan  —  still,  quiet  little  village  - 
old    church    where    Andre    was    confined  —  quiet 
churchyard  with  old  Dutch  and  French  names  —  inn 
where  court  marshall  [martial]  was  held  —  pleasant 
rural  country  around. 

Leaving  Tappan  we  pass  thro'  Harrington  —  very 
neat  Dutch  stone  cottages.  Ask  an  old  lady  whom 
we  meet  on  the  road  to  whom  such  and  such  belong 
—  we  find  one  was  hers  —  compliment  her  on  its 
neatness  —  quite  a  picture. 

Arrive  about  eight  o'clock  at  Hackensack. 

Wednesday.  —  We  drive  out.  Resume  tour  at 
Hackensack. 

Leave  Hackensack  —  drive  thro'  English  neigh 
bourhood  to  Communipaw.  Old  Van  Horn  saw 
N]ew]  York  burnt1  —  waited  to*  see  Trinity  steeple 

1  This  was  the  conflagration  which  took  place  in  September, 
1776.  By  the  British,  who  were  then  in  possession  of  New  York,  the 

195 


fall,  but  turned  away  his  head  and  when  he  looked 
again  it  was  down. 

[The  last  note-book,  1842,  is  devoted  to  Irving1  s  trip 
from  New  York  via  England,  to  Spain,  where  he  took 
up  his  duties  as  American  Minister.] 

April  10th.  —  Sunday.  Drive  down  to  White 
Hall  in  carriage  with  Abm  Schermerhorn.  *  Embark 
on  board  steam  ferry-boat,  to  be  taken  on  board  of 
Liverpool  packet  ship  "  Independence "  —  Cap. 
Holdridge.  Accompanied  to  ship  by  Ebenr  Irving 
and  his  son  Washington,  J.  Treat  Irving,  Irving 
Paris,  Henry  Brevoort,  Charles  Augustus  Davis  — 
arrived  on  board  and  set  sail  before  twelve  o'clock 
with  a  fair  wind. 

Passengers  —  Henry  Lee,  Jr.,  of  Boston,  Hector 
Ames,2  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Patterson  of  Boston,  Mr.  Little 
of  ditto.  Had  an  easy,  pleasant  voyage,  without  any 
incident  of  moment  excepting  the  losing  of  a  boy 
overboard  —  a  fine  lad  who  was  making  his  first  voy 
age.  Ship  was  going  at  the  rate  of  nine  or  ten  miles 
an  hour  —  hove  to  and  lowered  boat,  but  it  was  too 
late  to  save  him. 

28th. —  We  came  in  the  Channel  with  a  head  wind; 
when,  a  steamer  coming  in  sight,  most  of  the  passen 
gers,  myself  among  the  number,  got  on  board  and 
were  landed  this  day  in  the  evening  at  Bristol.  Put 
up  there  for  the  night  at  the  -  -  Hotel. 

May  1st.  —  Sunday.     Set  off  with  Hector  Ames, 

fire  was  attributed  to  the  American  Revolutionists,  but  Wash 
ington  and  the  members  of  Congress  had  decided  not  to  burn  New 
York,  and  the  general  belief  is  that  the  catastrophe  had  no  incen 
diary  origin.  Almost  five  hundred  houses  were  destroyed. 

1  Schermerhorn,  Brevoort  and  Davis  were  among  the  merchant 
princes  of  their  day. 

2  Hector  Ames,  a  young  New  York  friend,  invited  by  Irving  to 
act  as  one  of  his  two  attaches  of  the  Legation  at  Madrid. 

196 


/3c^*^    4 


f 


FACSIMILE  OF  THE  FIRST  PAGE  OF  IRVING'S  DIARY 

Beginning  the  day  he  left  New  York  to  assume  his  office  of  Minister 
to  Spain.  Apart  from  his  brother  and  three  of  his  nephews,  the 
intimate  friends  who  saw  Irving  off  were,  as  this  page  records,  Henry 
Brevoort  and  Charles  Augustus  Davis,  whose  homes  were  the  resorts 
of  so  many  famous  writers. 


Mr.  Lee,  and  Mr.  Little  in  railroad  cars  for  London, 
where  we  arrived  in  about  four  hours.  Mr.  Lee, 
Hector  Ames,  and  myself  took  lodgings  at  Thomas 
Hotel,  Berkley  Square.  Walked  about  the  west  end 
of  the  town,  the  parks,  etc.,  with  Lee  and  Ames. 
Lovely  weather  —  parks  crowded  with  groups  of 
populace,  men,  women,  and  children  on  the  grass  — 
great  parade  of  carriages  in  St.  James  Park.  Felt 
singularly  low  spirited.  Dreaded  to  throw  myself 
once  more  into  this  turbulent  stream  of  life  and  to 
encounter  the  harrassing  parade  and  dissipation  of 
the  great  world. 

May  2d.  —  Called  on  Mr.  Everett  —  Mrs.  Bates  — 
ordered  clothes  at  Stultz.  —  Preston1  —  ev[enin]g 
went  out  to  Leslie's  —  he  was  not  at  home.  Returned 
home  fatigued  and  dispirited. 

3d.  —  Called  with  Everett  on  Lord  Aberdeen  - 
met  with  cordial  reception  —  talked  about  affairs  of 
Spain  —  called  on  Bandinel.2    Evening  at  opera - 
" Lucia    de    Lammermoor"    -but    tolerably    per 
formed  — called  this  day  at  Murray's.3   My  heart  was 
in  my  throat  on  finding  myself  in  the  drawing-room, 
the  scene  of  many  an  interesting  literary  meeting  at 
the  early  period  of  my  London  career.    Kindly  re 
ceived  by  Murray  and  his  family  —  promised  to  dine 
with  them  on  my  return  to  town. 

1  William  C.  Preston  (1794-1860),  the  South  Carolina  statesman 
and  orator,  who,  a  quarter  of  a  century  earlier,  had  met  Irving  in 
Liverpool,  and  later  in  South  Carolina  during  Nullification  times. 
Letters  between  these  old  friends  were  exchanged  until  Irving'a 
death. 

2  James  B.  Bandinel,  of  the  Foreign  Office,  the  antiquary  of 
whom  Irving  wrote  to  his  sister  (May  9,  1842),  "He  is  a  peculiar 
character;  a  capital  scholar,  a  man  variously  and  curiously  in 
formed,  of  great  worth,  kindness,  and  hospitality." 

3  John  M.  Murray  (1778-1843),  Irving' s  famous  English  pub 
lisher,  at  whose  rooms  in  Albermarle  Street,  Scott,  Byron,  Southey, 
Campbell,  and  many  other  great  writers  had  met  in  days  gone  by. 

197 


Wednesday,  4th.  —  Dined  at  Everett's  —  met  there 
with  Rogers1  —  accompanied  him  in  the  evening  to 
Lady  Holland's2  in  West  Street,  in  the  house  formerly 
occupied  by  her  mother,  Lady  Coffrich.  Here  Lady 
Holland  keeps  up  a  kind  of  Holland  House  on  a  small 
scale.  Here  was  her  Prime  Minister  Allen.  Here 
opposite  to  her  was  seated  Lady  Seymour,  the  Queen 
of  Beauty,  dressed  in  black  and  looking  very  beauti 
ful.  Here  was  the  Bishop  of-  — ,  very  lively  and 
conversable  —  Col.  Charles  Fox,  grown  stout  and 
grey. 

Thursday,  6th.  —  Accompanied  Mr.  Everett  to  the 
levee.  In  antechamber  was  introduced  to  the  diplo 
matic  corps  —  St.  Aulaire,  the  French  Ambassador 

— ,  the  Russian.  Cordial  meeting  with  Sir  R.  Peel, 
who  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  on  the  follow[in]g 
Saturday,  but  declined  as  I  am  going  out  of  town. 
Made  acquaintance  with  Lord  Stanley,  Duke  of 
Buccleuch,  etc. 

Queen  pleasing  in  her  appearance,  acquits  her 
self  with  grace  and  ease.  Prince  Albert  tall,  well 
formed,  a  bland,  prepossessing  countenance  and 
demeanour. 

Friday,  7th.  —  Set  off  at  eight-forty-five  o'clock  in 
railroad  cars  for  Birmingham,  where  arrived  about 
two  o'clock.  Found  Sister  Sarah  and  her  daughter 
Marianne  at  home. 

Saturday,  8th.  —  Returned  to  town  in  the  after- 

1  Samuel  Rogers  (1763-1855),  the  banker-poet,  renowned  for 
his  literary  breakfasts,  —  an  old  acquaintance  of  Irving's. 

2  Lady  Holland  was  the  widow  of  Henry  Richard  Fox,  3d  Baron 
Holland  (1773-1840),  whose  home,  Holland  House,  was  the  famous 
resort  of  statesmen  and  men  of  letters.    Irving,  as  he  says,  did  not 
visit  Holland  House,  which  was  in  Kensington,  but  a  smaller  estab 
lishment  kept  up  by  Lady  Holland  in  South  Street,  not  West  Street. 
Lady  Holland's  maiden  name  was  Elizabeth  Vassall,  and  the  name 
Irving  gives  her  mother  is  not  easy  to  find. 

198 


THE  HOME  —  IN  BIRMINGHAM  —  OF  IRVING'S  BROTHER-IN-LAW 
HENRY  VAN  WART 

Here  Irving  wrote  "Rip  Van  Winkle,"  and  other  parts  of  "The  Sketch  Book," 
published  in  1819.  Thus  in  this  English  house,  American  literature  may,  from 
the  point  of  view  of  international  fame,  be  said  to  have  had  its  origin. 

From  the  water-colour  made  in  1870,  by  Thomas  Wakeman,  and  now  for  the 
first  time  reproduced. 


noon  train.  Took  up  my  quarters  with  Mr.  James 
Bandinel  in  the  Little  Cloisters,  Westminster  Abbey, 
where  I  was  joined  in  the  evening  by  Hector  Ames! 
Dined  at  Mr,  Rogers.  Lord  John  Russell  and  Lady 
there  —  Lord  Prudhoc  —  Leslie.  Ev[enin]g  with 
Rogers  to  Marquis  of  Northampton's  soiree  _  see 
Young,  Milnes,  Galley  Knight,  Hallam. 

Sunday,  9th.  —  Lee  breakfasted  with  us.  At 
tended  morning  service  in  the  Abbey  —  sat  in  the 
stalls  of  the  prebendary  —  sermon  by  Mr.  Frere  _ 
service  beautifully  chanted.  Dined  with  Mr.  Bandi 
nel,  Lee,  and  Hector  Ames  and  Mr.  Annandales, 
3  Great  Queen  St.  —  where  we  met  Mr.  McCulloch  — 
Mr  .  and  Mrs.  --  ,  who  recently  were  three  years  in 
U[nited]  States  about  which  Mr.  -  -has  published 
a  very  good-humoured  work. 

Evening  at  Mr.  Everett's  where  I  met  Miss 
Rogers,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Booth,  Mr.  Romaine  Dillon, 
Mr.  Broadhead  (employed  in  researches  concerning 
early  hist[ory]  of  New  York). 

Monday,  10th.  —  Mr.  Broadhead  breakfasted  with 
us  —  gave  me  some  documents  concerning  New 
York. 

Dined  at  home  —  Compton,  Charles  Mills,  Frank 
Mills,  Lord  Canning  (son  of  George  Canning),  Mr. 
Lee,  Leslie. 


Tuesday,  ^M.  -—  Had  at  breakfast  Mr.  de  Gay- 
anjos,  an  Arabic  scholar,  Consul  to  Tunis  —  has  pub 
lished  "Arabic  Dynasties  in  Spain"  —  Mr.  Romaine 
Dillon,  and  Mr.  -  -  Moore  of  N.  Y.,  lately  from 
Madrid.  Dined  at  Murray's  —  met  there  Moore  and 
Lockhart  and  Leslie.  Moore  looks  thinner  than  when 
I  last  saw  him  —  has  had  trouble  in  his  family.  His 
son  Russel  has  returned  from  the  army  broken  in 
health  and  threatened  with  consumption.  Tom  has 

199 


been  somewhat  wild  —  has  got  into  scrapes  by  his 
amours  —  had  to  go  to  India  to  escape  prosecution. 
Last  news  of  him  he  had  sold  out  and  was  returning 
home.  Moore  speaks  despondingly  as  if  he  fears  he 
shall  eventually  have  to  come  upon  the  Literary 
Fund.1 

Murray  looks  as  well  as  when  I  parted  with  him 
about  ten  years  since.  His  son  John,  who  is  a  steady, 
worthy  fellow,  mainly  conducts  the  business  and 
manages  both  that  and  his  father. 

Wednesday,  12th.  —  Drove  down  into  the  city  — 
visited  Aspinwall  at  his  office. 

Called  on  the  Rothschilds  and  drew  for  my 
quarter's  salary  —  two  or  three  of  the  young 
Rothschilds  in  their  office  —  Jew-looking  gentlemen, 
stout  and  greasy  —  invited  me  to  dine  with  them 
on  Sunday,  but  I  declined  as  I  should  be  out  of 
town.2 

Monday.  —  This  morning  I  breakfasted  with  Miss 
Rogers  where  I  met  Wordsworth,3  Rogers,  the  Miss 
Stanleys,  daughters  of  Lord  (once  Sir  John)  Stanley, 
Lockhart,  Leslie. 

After  breakfast  accompanied  Rogers,  etc.,  to  Les 
lie's  to  look  at  his  picture  of  the  Christening.4 

Dined  at  the  Anniversary  of  the  Literary  Fund  — 
Prince  Albert  presided.  I  sat  between  Moore  and 
Hallam.  Bishop  of  Gloucester  opposite  and  Mr. 
Everett  —  met  Lockhart,  Lord  Mahon,  Lord  Lans- 

1  The  poet's  diary  under  May  10  shows  his  high  regard  for 
Irving. 

2  Irving  went  to  Birmingham  that  Sunday. 

8  That  Irving  had  met  the  great  English  poet  appears  to  be  here 
for  the  first  time  recorded.  Wordsworth  was  then  seventy-two 
years  of  age,  and  in  the  next  year  became  Poet  Laureate  on  the 
death  of  Southey. 

4  The  Royal  Christening.  His  picture  of  the  Coronation  had 
been  very  successful. 

200 


downe,  Marquis  of  Northampton — Mr.  James1  — 
Mr.  Milnes,  etc.  —  very  nervous  throughout  the 
dinner,  knowing  my  health  was  to  be  drunk.  Sir 
Robert  St.  Inglis  introduced  it  with  a  very  kind  and 
complimentary  speech.  It  was  cheered  in  the  warm 
est  manner,  which  contributed  to  embarrass  me. 
Rose,  declared  my  want  of  talent  for  public  speak 
ing,  and  returned  thanks.  After  dinner  James  came 
up  and  shook  hands  with  me  cordially  by  way  of 
renewing  old  acquaintance. 

At  this  dinner  Campbell  was  deputed  to  give 
Hallam's  health.  He  made  an  introductory  speech, 
but,  having  drunk  too  much  wine,  became  so  prosy 
and  maudlin  that  he  was  absolutely  clamoured 
down.2 

Thursday,  18th.  —  Breakfasted  with  Hallam  — 
met  there  with  Wordsworth,  Everett  —  dined  with 
Rogers  —  met  there  Lord  Prudhoc  —  Lord  John  and 
Lady  Russell,  Leslie. 

Evening,  accompanied  Mr.,  Mrs.  and  Miss  Everett 
to  the  Queen's  fancy  ball. 

Friday,  14th.  —  Breakfasted  with  Sir  Robert  St. 
Inglis  —  met  there  Wordsworth,  Milnes,  young 
Wordsworth,3  Everett,  Bandinel. 

After  breakfast  went  with  Bandinel  to  Egyptian 

1  G.  P.  R.  James  (1799-1860),  the  English  novelist. 

*  We  learn  from  Moore  that  Irving' s  nervousness  was  caused  in 
great  measure  by  the  fact  that  he  had  broken  down  in  his  speech 
as  chairman  at  the  dinner  given  Dickens  in  New  York.  Moore 
also  shows  that  Lockhart  was  equally  nervous,  and  would  not  go 
to  the  dinner  until  assured  that  his  health  would  not  be  drunk. 
The  fluent  Everett  made  amends  for  Irving' s  shyness,  and  Hallam, 
as  Irving  tells  us  in  his  prefatory  epistle  to  Harper's  edition  of 
Beattie's  biography  of  Campbell,  came  to  that  poet's  rescue  and 
paid  him  such  a  tribute  as  both  convicted  the  company  of  their 
discourtesy  and  soothed  the  sensibilities  of  the  insulted  man  of  letters. 

3  Young  Wordsworth  may  have  been  the  poet's  nephew,  Chris 
topher  Wordsworth  (1807-1855),  afterwards  Bishop  of  Lincoln  and 
a  well-known  theological  writer. 

201 


Halls,  British  Museum  —  called  at  Miller's  —  ac 
companied  Miller  to  see  Mrs.  Miller  and  John  Miller 
beyond  Knightsbridge. 

Dined  at  home  —  went  with  Bandinel  to  the  Ger 
man  opera,  Co  vent  Garden  —  "Don  Juan,"  miser 
ably  performed. 

Saturday,  15th.  —  Lee  breakfasted  with  us- 
called  on  Catlin1 —  Lady  Straff ord  (Miss  Caton) 
whom  I  found  grown  rather  plump,  but  looking  well, 
and  as  usual  full  of  good  sense  and  good  humour  — 
called  on  Charles  Bristed,  and  invited  him  to  break 
fast  to-morrow. 

Dined  at  Lord  Stanley's  —  present,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Everett,  Lord  and  Lady  Mahon,  Lord  and  Lady 
Canning. 

Evening  at  Mrs.  Bates'  with  Mrs.  Everett. 

Sunday,  16th.  —  Charles  Bristed  took  an  early 
breakfast  with  us  —  set  off  at  nine-forty-five  o'clock 
in  railroad  cars  for  Birmingham,  where  I  arrived  at 
half -past  two. 

Dined  at  home  —  evening,  the  Goddards,  etc., 
came  in. 

Tuesday,  18th.  —  Dined  at  William  Van  Wart's, 
with  the  family. 

Wednesday,  19th.  — Passed  the  day  at  home. 
Capt.  Holdridge  came  up  from  Liverpool  to  dine  with 
us.  Mr.  Church2  dined  here  also.  Ev[enin]g,  Mr. 
Goddard's  family,  Miss  Koll,  etc. 

20th.  —  At  home  —  afternoon,  Mr.  Lee  and  Hector 
Ames  arrived  —  ev[enin]g,  at  Matilda  Koll's. 

Friday,    21st.  —  Leave    Birmingham    at    twelve 

1  George  Catlin  (1796-1872),  the  American  artist  and  author, 
famous  for  his  paintings  of  American  Indians. 

2  Presumably  Edward   Church,  who,  in    1820,  had   interested 
Washington  Irving  and  his  brother  Peter  in  the  steam-boat  enter 
prise  on  the  Seine. 

202 


o'clock  in  railroad  car  (London  line)  in  company  with 
Mr.  Lee  and  Hector  Ames.  Stop  at  Weedon  Station, 
Northamptonshire  —  take  post  chaise  for  Sulgrave, 
natal  place  of  the  Washington  family,  from  whence 
John  and  Laurence  Washington  emigrated  to 
America  in  Cromweirs  time  —  John,  great  grand 
father  of  George  Washington.  We  drove  by  cross 
roads  checked  by  numerous  gates  across  the  country 

—  rich-looking  though  low  country  —  huge  trees, 
overgrown  hedges,   old   grey  stone   villages,   with 
Tudor  style  of  architecture  —  stone-shafted  windows 
with  water  tables,  moss-grown,  weather-stained  — 
old  grey  Gothic  churches  with  towers  wrapped  in 
ivy  —  some  of  the  oldest-looking  villages  I  have  seen 
in  England.    Large,  rambling,  Gothic  mansions  — 
gardens  with  Yew  trees  of  formal  cut. 

At  Litchborough  a  large,  picturesque  Tudor  man 
sion  with  various  gables,  stone-shafted  windows  — 
escutcheons  in  relief  —  one  with  three  coronets. 

Canons  Ashby  —  old  Gothic  mansion  by  roadside, 
at  present  owned  by  Sir  -  — ,  —  immense  trees  — 
elms,  etc.,  —  some  overrun  with  ivy. 

Arrived  at  Sulgrave  a  little  after  four  —  stop  at 
vicarage  —  Rev.  Mr.  Harden  —  send  in  card  — 
follow  it  —  find  Mr.  Harden  and  Mrs.  Harden  and 
Mr.  Clark  —  clergyman  of  neighbouring  parish  - 
neat  parsonage — little  lawn  in  front  with  rustic  seats, 
shrubs,  etc.  —  polite  reception  —  wine  and  biscuit  — 
Mr.  Harden  knew  of  the  monument  of  the  Washing 
ton  family.  He  and  Mr.  Clark  accomp[ani]ed  me  to 
church.  It  is  a  grey  Gothic  church  —  square  tower 

—  has  been  repaired  in  simple  Gothic  style  —  singu 
lar  green  mound  near  the  church  called  Castle  Close. 
It  appears  to  have  been  surrounded  by  a  ditch - 
may  have  been  part  of  fortress  or  keep  in  old  times. 

203 


Mr.  Clark  says  there  are  several  [of]  what  are  called 
Roman  and  Danish  mounds  in  this  part  of  the  coun 
try  —  and  remains  of  Roman  camps  near  Daventry, 
Charlton  near  Brockley,  Deddington,  etc.  —  rural 
scenery  round  church  —  parsonage  in  distance  with 
shrubbery  —  low,  grey,  thatched  stone  houses  of 
village  with  casements  —  rich  green  meadows  with 
rough  hedges  —  numerous  cattle. 

Church  simple  —  old  oak  pews  with  seats  that  let 
down  on  hinges  or  were  for  poor  —  tomb  of  Wash 
ington:  flat  stone  or  pavement  close  by  the  pulpit  — 
inscription  in  black  letter. 

Here  lyeth  buried  ye  bodies  of 
Laurence  Wasshington  Gent,  and 
Anne  his  Wyff  by  whome  he  had  issue 
IIII  sons  and  VII  daughters 
Laurence  died  Anno  [obliterated] 
and  Anne  deceased  6  day  of  October 
Anno  1564. 

Above  the  inscription  is  an  escutcheon  bearing  the 
Washington  arms. 

Below  are  brass  plates  on  which  are  engraved 
effigies  of  the  sons  and  daughters  —  also  an  effigy  on 
brass  plate  of  a  female  figure,  probably  Anne  —  the 
effigy  of  Laurence  obliterated.  Mr.  Harden  said  the 
remains  of  this  monument  should  be  carefully  pre 
served.  Walked  to  the  old  manor  house  —  now 
much  dilapidated  —  old  grey  stone  and  plastered 
house  with  great  grey  stone  stables  and  outhouses  — 
has  been  purchased  not  long  since  by  Colonel  Hutch- 
inson,  who  resides  a  few  miles  distant.  It  is  farmed 
by  a  Mr.  Lets,  a  hale,  sturdy  farmer.  Were  shewn 
about  the  house  by  a  plump  country  lass.  House  has 

204 


never  had  much  pretension  to  grandeur,  tho'  there  are 
remains  on  a  gable  end  of  escutcheon  of  arms  with 
supporters  —  lion  and  dragon  rampant  —  and  es 
cutcheon  on  border  of  old  Gothic  window  of  dairy. 
The  rooms  are  low  and  panelled  —  old  oaken  stair 
case  —  the  remains  of  a  hall  flagged  with  bl[ac]k  stone 

—  large   fireplace  —  wooden  joists   of    ceiling.     A 
portion  of  the  hall  is  divided  off  into  a  dairy  —  great 
pans  of  cream  (they  have  seventeen  cows)  —  Gothic 
window  —  on  the  walls  in  rude  relief  the  family  sup 
porters —  lion  and  green  dragon  —  old,  plain  fire 
places  upstairs.    The  family  arms  were  formerly  em 
blazoned  in  coloured  glass  in  one  of  the  windows,  but 
we  were  told  Colonel  Hutchinson  had  removed  them 
to  his  room  at  his  residence.     Little  garden  sur 
rounded  by  low  stone  wall  —  formerly  probably  a 
terrace.    On  the  gable  end  near  the  acorns  is  a  primi 
tive  sun-dial  such  as  we  see  in  the  old  country  houses 
in  this  part  of  the  country  —  lofty  old  elms  about  the 
building  —  rooks  sailing  about.    Everything  has  an 
ancient  air,  which  indeed  pervades  this  part  of  the 
country  —  literally  a  piece  of  old  England  —  a  coun 
try    little    hackneyed  —  mere    cross-roads  —  little 
travelled.    Farmer  came  home  while  we  were  looking 
about  the  house.    Tall,  stout,  fresh  complexion - 
coat  square  with  deep  pockets  —  breeches  —  gaiters 

—  very  respectful.    The  house  is  to  undergo  repairs 
which  will  probably  obliterate  some  of  its  peculiari 
ties.     It  is  visited  occasionally.     Mr.  Harden  says 
there  are  inquiries  made  now  and  then  about  Wash 
ington.    It  is  a  tradition  that  Queen  Elizabeth,  before 
queen,  was  at  Sulgrave.    It  is  recorded  that  she  was 
in  a  retired  part  of  Northamptonshire.    Primitive 
manners  of  country  people  —  Mr.  Clark  gave  an 
entertainment  to  about  1,000  country  people.    They 

205 


danced  on  the  green  —  very  orderly  —  not  a  rude  or 
profane  word  spoken. 

Mr.  Harden  wished  us  to  dine  with  him.  We  de 
clined.  While  post-horses  were  putting  to  we  took  a 
snug  dinner  of  cold  beef  and  ham  with  home-brewed 
ale  at  a  decent  little  village  ale  house  —  number  of 
country  lads  smoking  in  outer  room  —  landlady  tidy, 
short  little  woman.  We  were  waited  upon  by  her 
daughter,  a  very  pretty  girl  with  fair  complexion  and 
fair  hah*.  Everything  neat  and  good  —  excellent 
bread  and  nice  butter.  Left  Sulgrave  about  quarter 
past  five  —  returned  thro'  the  old  grey  moss-grown 
village  with  escutcheon  on  the  doors  and  reached 
Weedon  about  seven  —  and  at  eight  Hector  and  my 
self  set  off  in  cars  for  London  where  we  arrived  at 
eleven  and  put  up  at  Victoria  Hotel.  Lee  returned 
to  Birmingham. 

Saturday,  22d.  —  Breakfasted  at  Victoria  Hotel. 
Drove  in  hackney  coach  to  Southampton  railroad 
station.  Set  off  at  eleven  o'clock  A.  M.  —  arrived  at 
Southampton  a  little  before  three,  having  been  de 
layed  near  an  hour  on  road  —  rainy  day.  Put 
trunks  on  board  steam-boat  Grand  Turk  —  call 
on  the  Aspinwalls  —  find  them  all  at  home  —  Col. 
and  Mrs.  A.,  Eliza,  and  -  — .  Take  dinner  of 

cold  meat.  Col.  accompanies  me  to  steam-boat.  Set 
sail  five  o'clock  —  pass  the  night  on  sofa  in  cabin  — 
quiet  voyage. 

Sunday,  23d.  —  Arrive  at  Havre  six  o'clock  —  send 
for  Mr.  Taylor  —  get  our  luggage  passed  at  custom 
house  without  examination.  Mr.  Beasley  drives  to 
town  in  his  carriage  to  meet  us  —  takes  us  out  to  his 
country  retreat  where  we  breakfast  —  Mr.  Forceth  of 
N.  York  there.  Mr.  Winslow  pays  us  a  visit.  Drive 
out  on  cote  —  call  on  Mr.  Winslow  —  see  his  wife, 

206 


daughter,  and  niece,  and  youngest  daughter.  Dine 
at  home  —  at  Beasley's.  Mr.  Forceth  and  Mr. 
Taylor  there  —  retire  to  bed  at  nine  o'clock. 

Monday,  24th.  —  Set  off  at  quarter-past  five  in 
steam-boat  for  Rouen.  In  the  course  of  our  voyage 
we  pass  a  vessel  which  had  run  on  a  sand-bar  and  been 
upset  by  the  violence  of  the  current.  Nine  men  on 
the  sides  making  frantic  signals  of  distress  and  crying 
"  Sauvez-nous!  Sauvez-nous!"  -  put  out  our  yawl  - 
several  boats  put  off  also  from  the  shore  to  then* 
assistance,  but  they  cannot  get  to  her  on  account  of 
the  violence  of  the  current.  The  distress  of  the  poor 
fellows  increases.  Sympathy  of  ladies  on  board  of 
our  boat  who  weep  and  implore  the  captain  to  aid 
the  poor  people.  The  capt[ain]  put  steam-boat 
about,  passes  wreck,  tows  the  boat  up  to  her,  and 
gets  off  the  men.  One  boy  had  been  drowned. 
Send  the  men  on  shore,  all  but  one  who  was  wounded 
—  a  subscription  was  made  for  him  and  fifteen 
dollars  collected  on  board.  Arrive  at  Rouen  half- 
past  one  —  put  up  at  the  Grand  Hotel  d'Angle- 
terre  —  visit  Cathedral  —  tomb  of  Longsword. 

Tomb  and  monument  of  Duke. 

In  one  part  of  monument  he  is  represented  as  an 
infant  in  nurse's  arms  —  in  another  as  a  warrior  in 
complete  armour  and  mounted  on  horseback.  Below 
on  sarcophagus  is  his  emaciated  body  in  winding 
sheet. 

Ev[enin]g  at  theatre  —  play  "II  y  a  Seize  Ans." 

Tuesday,  25th.  —  Leave  Rouen  at  five  o'clock  in 
steam-boat  for  Paris  —  breakfast  and  dine  on  board, 
where  we  have  an  excellent  restaurant.  Arrive  at 
St.  Germain  at  quarter-past  seven  —  depart  on  rail 
road  cars  at  eight  —  arrive  in  Paris  where  I  am  met 
by  Mr.  Storrow  and  conducted  to  his  house. 

207 


Sunday,  30th.  —  Drive  out  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Storrow  and  Hector  Ames  to  Meudon,  thence  to  St. 
Cloud,  where  we  dine  —  return  in  ev[enin]g. 

Tuesday.  —  Ev[enin]g.  Go  with  Gen[era]l  Cass  to 
Mr.  Guizot's,1  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs.  Mr. 
Guizot  small,  thin,  dark  man  with  grey  hair  —  speaks 
very  fair  English.  Introduced  there  to  the  Prince 

— ,  former  head  of  Polish  nation  —  an  elderly  man 
with  a  pale,  somewhat  melancholy  countenance, 
amiable  in  his  deportment  and  manners  —  spoke  with 
much  interest  of  Spain,  tho'  he  had  never  been  there. 

Mr.  Dupin  came  up  to  Gen[era]l  Cass  —  after  a 
friendly  salutation,  "Well,"  said  Gen[era]l  C.,  allud 
ing  to  the  question  of  the  right  of  search,2  "c'  est  une 
affaire  finie."  "Nette!"  replied  Dupin,  with  an  ex 
pressive  gesture.  Then,  speaking  of  the  English 
pretext  of  philanthropy,  he  snapped  his  fingers,  — 
"Bah!  It's  a  mere  thing  in  the  air;  while  at  bottom 
there  are  the  most  interested  motives." 

Speaking  the  other  day  in  the  Chambre  on  the 
signing  of  the  treaty  by  the  French  Ministry--  "It 
would  be  a  matter,  not  of  censure/'  said  he,  "but  of 
impeachment." 

Dupin  has  a  remarkably  shrewd,  penetrating  look, 
and  a  concise,  trenchant  mode  of  expressing  himself. 

Greek  envoy  —  A  large,  good-humoured  man- 
had  not  much  conversation  with  him. 

The  saloon  large,  square,  with  somewhat  of  a 
vaulted  ceiling  —  dingy  and  smoked.  Furniture, 
etc.,  bears  evidence  of  having  been  much  used,  as  is 

1  Francois  Pierre    Guillaume  Guizot    (1787-1874),   the  distin 
guished  French  historian  and  statesman. 

2  Great  Britain's  attempt  to  maintain  the  right  of  search  on  the 
high   seas  was  vigorously  opposed  by  General  Cass,  and  mainly 
owing  to  the  argument  of  the  American  Minister,  France  refused 
to  ratify  the  Quintuple  Treaty. 

208 


generally  the  case  in  public  establishments  of  the 
kind.    Returned  home  before  ten  o'clock. 

The  question  of  the  right  of  search  has  roused  all 
France,  and  is  producing  an  effect  throughout  the 
Continent. 

When  the  question  of  the  ratification  of  the  treaty 
was  in  suspense  the  Duke  of  -  — ,J  went  to  the 
King  and  observed  it,  was  an  affair  not  of  a  ministry, 
but  of  a  dynasty. 

June  3d.  —  Visit  the  Invalidfejs  in  company  with 
Sarah  and  Hector  Ames. 

Napoleon's  remains  in  a  chappel  ardente2  hung  with 
purple,  wrought  with  bees.  On  each  side  the  entrance 
to  the  chapel  were  seated  a  veteran  invalide  in  uni 
form,  holding  a  tri-coloured  standard  planted  in  the 
ground.  Another  veteran  patrolled  about  the  en 
trance.  Through  a  grille  we  had  a  full  view  of  the  in 
terior.  Napoleon's  body  is  in  a  sarcophagus  of  some 
dark  kind  of  wood  richly  wrought.  His  imperial 
mantle  was  spread  on  it  —  upon  it  were  deposed  his 
crowns.  At  the  foot  of  the  sarcophagus  and  much 
lower  was  a  richly  wrought  and  gilt  box  containing 
his  heart.  On  top  of  it  was  his  sword,  and  under  a 
glass  case  his  famous  little  cocked  hat.  Around  the 
sarcophagus  lay  quantities  of  wreaths  or  chaplets  of 
immortelles;  votive  offerings,  from  time  to  time,  at 
his  shrine. 

June  4th.  —  Saturday.  At  eight  o'clock  in  the 
evening  drive  out  with  Gen[era]l  Cass  to  Neuilly  to 
be  presented  to  the  King.3  Pleasant  drive  through 

\  Ferdinand  d'  Orleans  (1810-1842),  eldest  son  of  King  Louis 
Philippe,  who  died  this  very  year  from  a  carriage  accident. 

2  Chapelle  ardente.  The  term  has  reference  to  the  illumination 
surrounding  the  sarcophagus. 

8  The  "Citizen  King/'  Louis  Philippe  (1773-1850),  brought  in 
after  the  Revolution  of  1830,  overthrown  by  that  of  1848. 

209 


the  park  —  guards  about  here  and  there.  At  the 
entrance  to  the  court-yard  of  the  chateau  a  lancer 
mounted  on  each  side,  a  sign,  always,  of  the  presence 
of  the  King.  Went  thro'  suite  of  rooms  —  found  the 
company  assembled  in  an  interior  saloon.  Queen, 
and  Madame  Elizabeth, l  with  various  ladies,  among 
whom  were  Madame  Soult  and  the  Countess  of 
Monjoie  (dame  d'honneur)  seated  at  a  round  table 
with  needle- work,  etc.,  before  them.  Company 
around  the  room  —  King,  dressed  in  black,  with 
shoes  and  stockings,  conversing  with  Mr.  Bulwer,2 
British  Sec[retar]y  of  Legation.  I  was  presented  to 
the  Queen,  who  excused  herself  from  speaking 
English  and  conversed  with  me  in  French.  She  is 
thin  and  rather  pale,  an  amiable  countenance,  blue 
eyes,  light,  or  grey  hair.  Madame  Elizabeth,  sister 
to  the  King,  a  very  frank,  cordial  manner  —  a 
countenance  indicative  of  good  nature  and  good 
sense.  I  had  a  very  cordial  reception  from  the 
King,  who  in  conversation  shewed  himself  well 
informed  of  all  the  passing  events  in  America. 
The  affairs  of  Mexico  and  Texas,  etc.  Had  some 
conversation  with  Countess  of  Montjoie  —  Mr. 
Chabannes,  who  reminded  me  of  our  having  met 
in  1829  at  the  house  of  the  Duke  de  Caze  —  with 
Bulwer,  with  Gen[era]l—  — ,  aide-de-camp  to  the 
King,  etc. 

I  am  told  the  King  is  extremely  annoyed  in  taking 
his  rides  about  the  park,  to  find  himself  continually 
in  sight  of  sentinels  placed  here  and  there  for  his 
security,  since  the  repeated  attacks  upon  him.  He 
says  it  is  almost  as  bad  as  the  case  of  Napoleon  at 

1  Irving  in  a  letter  correctly  calls  her  Adelaide. 

2  Sir  Henry  Lytton  Earle  Bulwer  (1801-1872),  author  and  di 
plomatist,  and  elder  brother  of  Lord  Lytton,  the  novelist. 

210 


Longwood,  who  could  never  find  himself  out  of  sight 
of  a  sentinel. 

June  5th.  —  Sunday.  Dined  with  Col.  Thorn,1  to 
witness  the  contract  of  marriage  of  his  daughter  with 
the  Baron  [Pierre].  Thorn  lives  in  the  Hotel 
Monaco,  Rue  de  Varennes,  Faub[our]g  St.  Germain, 
a  noble  mansion  entre  cour  et  jardin  —  the  latter  of 
great  extent,  looks  like  a  morsel  of  an  English  park. 
Fine  lawn  with  noble  trees  (horse-chestnuts  and 
others)  on  each  side  —  broad  terrace  back  of  the 
hotel.  At  dinner  we  had  the  Prince  and  Princess  de 
Bethune,  the  Duchess  de  Montmorency,  etc. 

The  Prince  is  head  of  the  house  of  Sully,  a  some 
what  dandyish  old  gentleman,  with  his  scanty  white 
hair  brought  from  behind  so  as  to  partially  cover  the 
top  of  his  head,  and  white  whiskers  that  reach  to  the 
corners  of  his  mouth  —  good-humoured,  but  light 
and  somewhat  faddy.  The  Princess  is  a  woman  of 
good  sense,  knowledge  of  the  world  and  excellent 
manners.  Sat  at  dinner  between  Mrs.  Thorn  and 
Mrs.  Chauncy,  her  daughter-in-law.  The  latter, 
German  by  birth,  speaks  English  very  well.  The  con 
versation  was  full  of  intelligence  and  talent. 

After  dinner  the  company  began  to  arrive,  and  in 
the  course  of  the  evening  the  assemblage  became 
quite  numerous,  composed  of  the  old  noblesse  —  the 
high  aristocracy  of  the  Faubourg  St.  Germain. 
Gen[era]l  Cass  came  in  the  evening.  The  company 
all  signed  as  witnesses,  the  contract  of  marriage.  The 
bride-elect,  a  very  pretty,  beaming  girl  with  a  frank, 
amiable  expression  of  countenance.  Understanding 
from  Gen[era]l  Cass  that  the  Marquis  Brignole, 

1  Colonel  Herman  Thorn,  an  American  of  great  wealth,  whose 
regal  entertainments  brought  to  his  house  all  the  old  nobility  of 
Paris. 

211 


Sardinian  Ambassador,  was  present,  I  told  Gen[era]l 
Cass  that  I  had  an  idea  I  had  seen  him  play  the  part 
of  Orasmin1  in  a  translation  of  Voltaire's  "Zaire,"  at 
the  country  palace  of  his  mother  at  Sestre  de  Ponente2 
near  Genoa,  in  1804,  when  he  was  about  nineteen  or 
twenty  years  of  age.  Gen[era]l  Cass  offered  to  intro 
duce  me  to  him,  but  I  first  wished  to  ascertain 
whether  it  was  the  same.  We  went  into  an  adjoining 
saloon  to  look  for  him.  Gen[era]l  Cass  told  me  to 
point  out  the  gentlemen  present  whom  I  should  sup 
pose  to  be  he.  I  examined  the  countenances  and 
pointed  to  a  tall,  grey-headed  person,  who  was 
seated  conversing  with  a  Neapolitan  Ambassador. 
I  was  not  mistaken.  It  was  indeed  the  once  young 
and  elegant  Brignole,  who  thirty-seven  years  before 
I  had  seen  playing  the  hero  of  the  drama  with  a  grace 
and  talent  that  captivated  all  the  ladies  present;  and 
who  I  believe  made  a  serious  impression  on  the 
beautiful  representative  of  Zaire.  Gen[era]l  Cass 
introduced  me  to  him  and  I  recalled  the  circum 
stances  just  mentioned.  He  remembered  having 
played  the  part  and  set  me  right  as  to  the  name  of  the 
representative  of  Zaire,  which  I  had  supposed  to  be 
Madame  Navara,  but  which  he  told  me  was  Riva- 
rolla.  He  paid  me  some  civil  compliments  upon  my 
"Life  of  Columbus/'  a  subject  so  interesting  to  the 
people  of  Genoa. 

June  6th.  —  Monday.  At  twelve  o'clock  drove 
out  with  Sarah  to  Mrs.  Welles'  at  Suresnes.  Took 
St.  Cloud  in  our  way  and  passed  some  time  in  the 
park.  Mrs.  Welles  in  a  maison  de  campagne,  beauti 
fully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Seine,  with  fine 

1  This  character  of  the  famous  play  is  an  officer  of  the  Sultan  of 
Jerusalem. 

2  Irving  meant  "Sestri  Ponente." 

212 


shrubbery,  walks,  garden,  etc.  —  forty  acres  —  re 
turned  through  Bois  de  Boulogne. 

Tuesday,  7th.  —  At  twelve  o'clock  attended  at  the 
Church  of  St.  Roque  to  witness  the  marriage  cere 
mony  of  Miss  Thorn  to  the  Baron  Pierre.  After  the 
ceremony  the  numerous  company  adjourned  to 
Thorn's  hotel  where  a  breakfast  was  served  at  two 
o'clock  to  about  thirty-six  persons.  The  repast  was 
in  a  noble  saloon  in  one  wing  of  the  chateau  looking 
out  upon  a  noble  avenue  of  trees  under  which  a  grand 
military  band  performed  various  pieces  of  music.  I 
was  seated  next  Madame  de  Varenne,  a  very  intelli 
gent  old  lady,  with  fine  black  eyes  and  hair  almost 
entirely  white.  I  found  out  afterwards  that  she  was 
the  person  who  planned  the  escape  of  LaValette. 

The  loveliest  woman  present  was  the  Princess 
Demidoff,  daughter  of  Jerome  Bonaparte.  She  had 
somewhat  of  the  Bonaparte  countenance  and  one  of 
the  most  delicious,  fascinating  smiles  I  have  ever 
seen.  I  was  presented  to  her  after  breakfast  just  as 
she  and  her  husband  were  on  the  point  of  getting  out 
their  carriage  to  proceed  on  a  journey. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning  I  was  introduced  to 
the  Marquis  de  la  Grange,1  a  member  of  the  Chamber, 
and  an  exceedingly  intelligent  man.  He  told  me  he 

was  occupied  writing  the  history  of  his  ancestor 

de  la  Force,  connected  with  the  history  of  Spain. 

Thought  Charles  V  presented  a  fine  subject  for 
the  historic  pen;  thought  Robertson's  history,  though 
a  beautiful  composition,  was  not  satisfactory.2 

Dined  with  Mr.  Bulwer,  in  a  curious  little  mansion 

1  This  was  Adelaide-fidouard  Le  Lievre,  Marquis  de  Fourelles 
et  de  la  Grange  (1796-1876),  French  statesman  and  author. 

2  William   Robertson    (1721-1793),    the   distinguished   Scottish 
historian. 

213 


made  up  of  irregular  saloons  and  pavilions,  with 
garden  behind  it,  which  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Princess  Pauline  and  was  a  kind  of  maison  de  plai- 
sance.  At  dinner  we  had  Gen[era]l  Cass,  Col.  Charles 

Fox,  a  Monsr. ,  who  is  engaged  in  the  history  of 

the  Moriscoes,  and  Mr.  Walewsky,  a  Pole,  said  to  be 
a  son  of  Napoleon.1  He  has  the  Bonaparte  stamp  in 
his  countenance  —  a  handsome  man  about  thirty- 
five —  speaks  English  very  well  —  very  intelligent 
and  agreeable  —  conversation  turned  upon  travellers 
in  the  East.  Lamartine2  was  shewn  up  as  being  ex 
cessively  poetical  in  his  mode  of  viewing  and  relating 
things  —  false  and  exaggerated  as  to  landscape, 
people,  facts,  etc.  Cass  spoke  of  his  interview  with 
Lady  Hester  Stanhope  and  of  her  indignation  against 
Lamartine,  who,  she  declared,  "lied  abominably." 
She  mentioned  various  circumstances  concerning  her 
self  which  he  had  stated  were  totally  false.  Lady 
Hester  Stanhope3  was  much  considered  and  honoured 
in  the  country  as  long  as  she  could  spend  money 
freely  but  when  her  means  became  straitened  as  they 
latterly  did,  the  prestige  vanished,  and  she  fell  into 
neglect. 

Sir  William  Gell  in  one  of  his  first  works  gives  a 

fanciful  and  false  account  of  the  Island  of ,  and 

the  ruins  of  the  Palace  of  -  — .  When  the  English 
took  possession  of  the  island  all  was  found  to  be 
false.  He  was  asked  how  he  came  to  fabricate  such 

1  Alexandre  Floria  Joseph  Colonna,  Comte  Walewski  (1810- 
1868),  a  soldier,  journalist,  and  statesman. 

8  Alphonse  de  Lamartine  (1790-1869),  the  greatest  of  French  ele 
giac  poets,  and  prominent  as  a  man  of  letters  and  a  member  of  the 
provisional  Government  of  1848. 

8  Lady  Hester  Lucy  Stanhope  (1776-1839),  eldest  daughter  of 
the  third  Earl  of  Stanhope,  the  brilliant  confidante  of  her  uncle, 
William  Pitt,  best  known  after  1810  for  her  eccentric  career  in  the 
Levant  as  a  sort  of  princess  among  the  tribes  of  Mount  Lebanon. 

214 


fables  —  "Why,"  said  he,  "I  never  dreamt  that  we 
were  to  gain  possession  of  the  Island."  He  supposed 
there  would  be  no  travellers  after  him  to  detect  his 
misrepresentations.  His  subsequent  writings  about 
well-known  countries  are  of  quite  a  different  charac 
ter  as  to  veracity. 

Speaking  of  Mad.  La  Norman,1  the  famous  fortune 
teller,  Bulwer  said  he  had  once  been  to  see  her- 
found  her  ingenious  —  prone  to  put  questions  and 
draw  hints  and  conclusions  from  the  replies. 

Walewsky  told  of  his  having  some  years  since 
called  upon  her,  knowing  that  a  beautiful  woman 
with  whom  he  had  some  liaison  was  about  to  call  on 
her.  Madam  La  Norman  began  to  talk  to  him  in  the 
usual  way  but  he  repeatedly  interrupted  her,  telling 
her  he  had  no  occasion  for  her  science,  but  had  come 
to  aid  it.  He  described  the  lady  who  was  coming  to 
consult  her.  He  related  many  striking  facts  con 
cerning  her.  He  stated  what  might  be  said  to  her 
as  to  the  future  —  "I  do  not  advise  you  to  tell  all 
these  things,"  said  he,  "I  counsel  nothing;  you  may 
do  as  you  please,  but  here  are  six  Louis  for  you." 
So  saying  he  took  his  leave.  The  lady's  fortune 
past  and  future  was  told  in  a  manner  to  astonish  her, 
and  greatly  to  the  advantage  of  Mr.  Walewsky. 

Charles  Fox  told  us  of  a  singular  train  of  coinci 
dences  which  had  happened  to  his  father,  Lord 
Holland.  When  a  boy  he  was  nearly  drowned  in  the 
Thames,  and  brought  to  shore  perfectly  insensible. 
On  another  occasion  he  met  with  another  accident  of 
great  danger  and  another  time  in  Lisbon,  he  - 

1  Her    correct   name  is  Marie- Anne    Lenormand   (1772-1843). 
She  came  early  to  Paris  and  was  consulted  by  the  Empress  Jose 
phine  and  other  notabilities. 

2  Irving  leaves  a  blank  half-page  for  the  anecdote  which  still  re 
mains  unrecorded. 

215 


In  the  evening  I  accompanied  Bulwer  to  the 

Duchess  of '  s,1  niece  of  Talleyrand.  Met  there 

with  Lady  Rencliff,  whom  I  had  not  seen  for  sixteen 
years.  She  was  looking  very  well  —  grown  plump. 
Introduced  to  a  very  handsome  girl,  Mademoiselle 
de  Noailles,  granddaughter  of  Lafayette.  Met  the 
Marquise  de  Brignole,  and  was  introduced  to  her 
sister-in-law,  Madame . 

Old  Lady  Oldborough  present  —  nearly  ninety 
years  of  age,  but  fashionably  dressed,  animated  and 
full  of  conversation. 

June  [18th].  —  Monday.  Dined  at  Lord  Cowley 's* 
(British  Ambassador)  —  present  L[or]d  and  Lady 
Cowley,  Miss  Wellesley,  Lord  and  Lady  Throg- 
morton,  —  Marquis  and  Marchioness  Durazzo,  Lady 
Rencliffe,  Mr.  Bulwer,  Mr.  McTavish,  etc. 

Ev[enin]g  to  Thorn's  —  Grand  Fete  —  gardens  il 
luminated.  Introduced  to  Eugene  Sue  —  stout  man 
about  thirty-six  —  strong,  black  beard  —  spoke  with 
great  approbation  of  Cooper's  writings. 

June  [14].  —  Tuesday.  Dined  with  Col.  and 
Lady  Mary  Fox  —  present,  Mr.  Dumas,3  Bulwer, 
etc. 

June  [15].  —  Wednesday.  Dined  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Greene  —  present,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Storrow,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Ledyard,  Gen[era]l  Cass,  Dr.  Randolph 
of  Philadelphia],  Mr.  Ray,  the  Miss  Greens. 

June  [16th].  —  Thursday.  Went  out  to  Versailles 
in  railroad  cars  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Storrow  and  the 


1  Dorothe"e  de  Courland,  Duchesse  de  Dino   (1792-1862),  who 
married  Talleyrand's  nephew,  Count  Alexandre  de  Pe"rigord.    She 
was  a  beauty  and  a  favourite  of  the  famous  diplomat. 

2  Henry  Wellesley,  Baron  Cowley  (1773-1847),  brother  of  the 
Duke  of  Wellington.    He  had  a  long  and  distinguished  career  as  a 
diplomat.     One  of  his  daughters  married  Bulwer-Lytton. 

a  Doubtless  the  great  romancer,  Alexandre  Dumas  (1803-1870). 

216 


child,  and  Mr.  Ames.  Took  up  quarters  in  the 
Reservoir  Hotel. 

Ev[enin]g  drove  to  Viroflay  to  Bon  Repos  —  dined 
with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ellis  —  met  there  Lady  Ryal, 
Gen[era]l  Cass,  Ledyard,  a  Mr.  Wilkinson,  etc. 
After  dinner  walked  in  wood  of  Meudon.  Visit 
Mr.  Wilkinson's  country  retreat  —  his  wife  a  pretty 
French  woman  —  two  daughters  are  very  hand 
some. 

June  27th.  —  Monday.  Accompanied  Mrs.  and 
the  Misses  Wheaton  to  soiree  of  Duchess  de  Gaze. 

June  29th.  —  Wednesday.  Dined  with  Baron 
Rothschild  at  his  villa  at  Bo[u]logne  —  present,  Duke 
de  Gaze,  Marquis  de  Salvandy,  Madame  de  Girardan, 
formerly  Delphine  Gay,1  Mr.  Bulwer,  etc. 

Evening  company  —  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Gram- 
mont,  M.  de  Kenevitz,  Minister  of  Saxony,  his  wife 
and  daughter,  Madam  Bernsdorff,  wife  of  Prussian 
charge  d'affaires,  etc.,  etc. 

July  llth.  —  Leave  Paris  at  eleven  o'clock  in  car 
riage  and  four  horses  for  Bordeaux  accompanied 
by  Alex.  Hamilton,  Jr.,  Carson  Brevoort  and  Hector 
Ames  —  Benjamin  Go  wien,  domestic 2 — fine  weather. 

Arrive  at  Orleans  at  half -past  nine  o'clock  —  put 
up  at  La  Boule  d'Or,  a  very  neat,  clean  hotel. 

July  12th.  —  Leave  Orleans  at  eight  o'clock  — stop 
about  one  o'clock  at  Blois  and  visit  the  old  castle 
where  the  Duke  de  Guise  was  assassinated.3 

1  Smile   Delphine  de  Gay  (1804-1855),  a  voluminous  writer, 
married  in  1831  to  M.  de  Girardine,  the  journalist. 

2  Irving  in  a  letter  of  July  20,  1842,  writes:  "I  have  picked  up 
a  most  valuable  servant  at  Paris,   a  mulatto  named  Benjamin 
Gowien,  native  of  South  Carolina." 

8  This  was  Henri  I  de  Lorraine  (1550-1588),  one  of  the  authors 
of  the  Massacre  of  St.  Bartholomew  and  head  of  the  Roman  Catho 
lic  League.  He  was  assassinated  at  Blois,  along  with  his  brother, 
the  Cardinal  of  Lorraine,  by  order  of  King  Henry  III. 

217 


Fine,  cool  day,  having  had  showers  last  night  — 
arrive  a  little  after  seven  o'clock  at  Tours.  Put  up 
at  the  Hotel  de  Londres  —  good. 

July  13th.  —  Rise  early  —  visit  Cathedral,  etc.  — 
leave  Tours  at  eight  o'clock  —  drive  through  Mont- 
bazon  —  ruins  of  castle  —  fertile  country  round  it  — 
gardens  —  small  river. 

Pass  thro'  fertile,  green  country  —  ridges  of  low 
hills  with  chateaux  and  vineyards.  Pass  thro' 
Chatellerault  —  beset  by  knife  merchants.  Arrive 
at  Poitiers  about  five.  Picturesque  approach  to  the 
town  —  limestone  crags  on  one  hand,  small  river  on 
the  other  —  put  up  at  Hotel  de  France  —  good  — 
take  bath  —  walk  in  public  promenade  built  partly 
on  walls  of  old  town.  Enchanting  view  below  the 
walls  —  small,  rich  valley  with  the  Vienne  gliding 
thro'  it. 

Visit  Cathedral  —  very  spacious,  wide  —  side 
aisles  nearly  as  wide  as  the  nave. 

14th.  —  Walked  before  breakfast  with  Mr.  Bre- 
voort  —  visit  Cathedral  —  Church  of  St.  -  — ,  — 
Saxon  architecture  —  columns  with  very  high  reliefs. 
Leave  Poitiers  at  eight  o'clock. 

Weather  this  day  very  hot  —  dusty  —  pass  thro' 
country  of  vineyards  —  straight  road  —  monotonous. 
See  at  a  distance  the  chateau  of  the  Rochefoucaulds. 

Arrive  about  seven  o'clock  at  Angouleme  —  have 
to  wind  up  hill  through  the  town  —  put  up  at  the 
H6tel  de  la  Port  —  walk  out  about  boulevards  along 
the  crest  of  the  hill  —  looking  over  rich  extent  of 

country  with  the ,  gleaming  through  part  of  it. 

We  are  in  the  country  of  truffles  and  pates,  etc. 

16th.  —  Leave    Angouleme    at    seven    o'clock - 
beautiful  walks   made  around  the   place   on   the 
boulevards,  etc. 

218 


A  hot,  dusty  day's  drive  —  about  three  posts  be 
fore  reaching  Bordeaux  hear  of  the  death  of  the 
Duke  of  Orleans. 

Pass  over  magnificent  hanging  bridge  over  the 
Dronne  —  arrive  at  Bordeaux  about  six  o'clock  — 
put  up  at  H6tel  de  Paris. 

July  16th.  —  Keep  at  home  all  day  on  account  of 
the  heat  —  drive  out  in  the  evening  to  Floirac  to  visit 
the  Guestiers  —  Mr.  Guestier  absent.  Find  Mrs.  G. 
at  home  with  her  son-in-law,  Wash :  Phelan,  who  mar 
ried  her  daughter  Minna,  and  Mr.  -  — ,  who  mar 
ried  her  niece,  Miss  Lorton  —  numerous  family  - 
four  born  since  I  was  here.  Accompan[ie]d  in  this 
drive  by  Hamilton  and  Brevoort  —  fine  drive  home 
by  moonlight. 

Sunday,  17th.  —  Drove  about  twelve  o'clock  to 
Lescare  —  country  seat  of  Mr.  Nath.  Johnson. 
Found  him  at  home  and  Mrs.  N.  Johnson  —  Mr.  J. 
just  recovering  from  severe  illness.  After  a  while  old 
Mrs.  Johnson  returned  from  church  accompan[ie]d 
by  her  daughter  Georgiana  and  her  husband,  Mr. 
Deluz  —  passed  an  hour  there  very  agreeably.  In 
afternoon  Hamilton,  Brevoort,  and  myself  drove 
out  to  Floirac,  where  we  dined  en  famille  with  the 
Guestiers.  Mr.  Guestier  had  returned  and  greeted 
me  cordially  on  my  arrival.  About  twenty  persons 
sat  down  to  table.  Mrs.  Phelan  was  there  and 
Doctor  -  — .  Passed  a  very  pleasant  evening. 

18th.  —  Paid  morning  visits  to  Mrs.  Deluz,  Mrs. 
Nath.  Barton,  Mrs.  Phelan,  and  Mr.  Grigsby  of 
Virginia,  American  Consul.1  Dined  at  Lescare.  At 
table  old  Mrs.  Johnson,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  N.  Johnson, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Deluz,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  N.  Barton,  and 

1  Probably  John  Blair  Grigsby  (1800-1881),  afterwards  a  well- 
known  authority  on  Virginia  history. 

219 


Mr.  Scott,  British  Consul.  Returned  in  ev[enin]g  in 
carriage  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Deluz. 

19th.  —  Leave  Bordeaux  at  four  o'clock  P.M.  in 
diligence  for  Bayonne  —  hot,  dusty  journey  in  the 
afternoon  —  travel  all  night. 

20th.  —  Day  cooler  —  there  have  been  showers  to 
lay  the  dust  —  arrive  at  Bayonne  at  four  o'clock  — 
at  diligence  office  find  Mr.  Lucaze,  who  conducts  us 
to  Hotel  St.  fitienne  —  take  bath  —  stroll  about  the 
town. 


220 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below, 
or  on  the  date  to  which  renewed.  Renewals  only: 

Tel.  No.  642-3405 

Renewals  may  be  made  4  days  prior  to  date  due. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


EEC.  CIB.  «B  7    78 


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LD21A-40m-8,'ry  n        **  J.    University  of  California 
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